Monday, January 28, 2008

My View - Affordable Medical Care [Rob´s India Entry (#10)]

Rob's Entry

Had a slight situation develop here in India. Actually, I think it may have started while cycling in Europe this summer- probably lifted my heavy bike while turning/twisting, and injured my back. I won't bore you with all the dull details, but suffice it to say that it was a minor, on/off pain, that wouldn't go away. I had planned on seeing someone overseas to keep this information out of any medical/insurance databases (only to be denied some sort of coverage in the future), and the time had come.

Seeing a doctor in a foreign country is like many things- a hassle. You have to chase one down (hopefully via a personal referral), schedule a visit, etc. So I was referred and went to the Bombay Hospital.

Oh, someone could see me immediately- no problem. Well, one problem, they wanted about $40 for an initial consultation. No, this can't be, we are being charged the foreign rate, or some other form of gouging. Well, there were alternatives (about time...). The out-patient clinic was closed for the day, but I could come back tomorrow morning and see someone then. The other option was a free clinic down the street.

Since we were already in the area, we checked out the free clinic. Unfortunately the specialist doctor had left for the day, but would be back in two. OK, so then the next day I went back to Bombay General, and after a certain amount of disorientation got 'into their system' and saw a doctor. Then another. Then it was decided that all I needed was some physical therapy, off to another doctor for PT training. The bill.... first two doctors were seen for 10 rupees total (about USD$0.25), and the PT training was a gouging (though I think that was the actual charge) 100 rupees (about USD$2.50). Was also prescribed some medication, that came to about $8.50 (three prescriptions). The PT did wonders, and am much better now.

With nothing but a little time to lose, I visited the second doctor at the free clinic. He agreed with the others that nothing major was wrong and wrote out a prescription (similar medications to the first). That visit only cost 5 rupees (about 15 cents), and the medicines were free. Overall, I think better value was received from the more expensive visit (25 cent one) as the PT has really done the trick, but the other was cheaper and included free meds. Oh well, pays to get a second opinion.

As a side note, there was an Australian in the hospital at the same time as I. He was being charged some ridiculous price ($130) to have a dressing changed (some leg injury). I explained that he needs to go through the out-patient thing (we were standing right there), and if price was an issue, there was the free clinic nearby. It seems that price was only one factor, he was very distressed by the hygiene of the hospital (he said "the place is filthy"). Granted, by western eyes, it was a bit of a shock, but I'm thinking of battlefield treatment- lives are saved in the most basic conditions, as long as the wound is clean. And I didn't care, as long as the doctors were knowledgeable as nothing was being opened up on me, but his reaction was extreme. I had a series of injections in Nicaragua, they had new sterile needles- no problem. As long as the business ends of things are clean, I don't think there's too much to worry about, at least under ordinary circumstances.

Those are my kind of prices! Not everyone needs an MRI, CT scan, and all sorts of testing. I think many tests are performed because someone has the equipment, not because its really needed. Of course all these tests have a time and place, but when at the mercy/trust of someone who can send you to the poor house, good judgment has to prevail.

My View - Back to Work [Rob´s India Entry (#9)]

Rob's Entry

Those that know me know my situation- early retirement. At least, that's what I called it, it has actually morphed into something else, the topic of another entry someday.

That all changed the other day. I went back to work. So did Anna. Between the two of us, we worked four days, as Bollywood extras (for those not knowing, Bollywood is the Indian motion picture industry, far out-producing Hollywood in number of films).

Up until this gig, my last job in aerospace was the best I ever had. I'll explain way this now was the best job ever.

The film was all about the modeling industry (not modeling in the mathematical or engineering sense, but rather fashion), so there were all these hot model types on the set. As an extra in the audience of a fashion show, it was our 'job' to watch (i.e. gawk) at the women as they paraded by. It would have been hard not to watch these very attractive women, but to get paid to leer makes this the best job ever. Aside from that, we were transported, given clothing (to wear for the day), fed (OK food), and paid 500 rupees (I'll let you do the conversion) per day. Other than that, our experience was long days, a hot (temperature) set, and boredom.

Anna had a lot more experience than I (she did three days, to my one), and has a lot more to write about.

Sunday, January 27, 2008

'Gringo Tax' and other overcharging

In India, there is the whole overcharging system. I've gathered that just by virtue of being a foreign traveler, the prices are doubled or tripled automatically on sight. Believe it or not, I don't have a major issue with the two-tiered price system at attractions. The prices are clearly stated. Also consider that if the two prices were averaged (I pay less, and an Indian pays more), and if Indians were deprived of experiencing and sharing their heritage, that wouldn't be worth me saving a few bucks (though I thought the Taj Mahal entry was a bit stiff- about USD$19 at the relevant exchange rate, the Indian rate was something like $0.50).

Rather what I'm referring to was something like a rickshaw ride I was trying to take the other day. Locals told me that the ride should be between 20 and 30 rupees (about $0.50-0.75). I know that the former was the correct price as a local took it upon themselves to arrange one right after we got off the bus together (for 30 rupees). As there were many rickshaws around and I was very hungry and wouldn't be able to eat for some time, I decided to let that one go, and get another after while (had plenty of time). Then on my own came all the outrageous prices- drivers were quoting 150, 125, 100 rupees, etc. for the same ride. An obvious rip-off. I know that in actual monetary amounts, it isn't that much, but it bugs me to be ripped off just because I'm foreign. I'm actually about as cheap as most Indians anyway!

On the brighter side, while searching for some food, someone at a stall offered me to try something. It is OK, but I was more interested in the other thing being served. I was presented with a small plate of that dish, and the owner absolutely refused any payment. Some boys also around wanted to practice English- sincerely w/o a hustle. So that's India, ripping you off with one hand, and giving freely with the other.

Incidentally, some kind locals saw me taking to the rickshaw drivers (and sending them all along- when I get a rip-off quote, I don't feel like trusting them with anything, though it is probably OK). Seeing this, one told me that very nearby was a bus stop, and wrote out the buses that would take me where I wanted to go. So my 30 rupee rickshaw (Indian negotiated) that went to 150 rupee (gringo tax), suddenly became 4 rupee on the bus (about $0.10).

The bus ride was an interesting adventure in itself. It was unimaginably packed, but still always room for more paying customers. I was literally hanging half out of the bus going down the street. Eventually some kind people made some room for me to squeeze my complete body inside, but an interesting experience overall. As mentioned before, in India, it's ALWAYS SOMETHING.

My View - Rich and Famous [Rob´s India Entry (#8)]

Rob’s Entry

Being rich and famous sucks. That's right, sucks! Oh yes, there are the perks, but overall it can become a hassle. That is the conclusion that I've drawn after traveling in India. It seems that with a billion people looking similar, and different from ourselves, being white (or as I was told, oriental, etc.) makes promotes us to somewhat celebrity status. For example, it has become commonplace to be asked by perfect strangers (usually at more touristed locations) to pose for pictures, usually with the local(s). Sometimes one picture turns into a mini-photoshoot, sometimes turning a little intense. That's the 'famous' part. The rich part (implied by the obvious fact that we have the resources to be in India in the first place) plays itself out by relentless offers to shop. "One minute to visit my shop", "Please look", "What are you looking for?" (being left alone often comes to mind), "Hello Sir!", and countless variations.

It is quite understandable how our rich and famous behave and the actions they take (sometimes at least). I understand the desire for unmolested shopping, shop people seen-but-not-heard, bodyguards, personal assistants and drivers, etc.

On the flip side, there are the mentioned perks. We have experienced situations where we 'take-a-number', only to be behind literally HUNDREDS. Never fear- WE go to the 'foreigner' line. No waiting! We have been told that as foreigners, we should NOT have to be waiting. A version of this was experienced in Central America when entering a bank (often a machine-gun-guarded establishment). An irony is that often in poor counties, people dress well. Then there is us, dirty backpackers. But yet, at the banks- the locals get the third degree while we waltz right in.

Our version of the 'country club set', The Johnathan Club, and other exclusive groups is the backpacker haunts, such as hotels. Here, we come from a common background, won't be hit up for money, tried to sell something, ask for a picture, etc. We have 'money' to travel, and do. Our micro-version of exclusivity, a place to relax, we can order anything on the menu without a second thought (decent meals are often USD$2 or less), and so on. Our concerns are whether to travel here or there, as opposed to how to sell enough trinkets to survive.

Those that know me understand how unpretentious I am, how respectful and sensitive to others I am, etc., so I hope that any of the above does not come off as elitist, snobbish, or just poor taste. I'm very sensitive to the struggles of the people where we visit, and we do our small part in supporting their local economy. It is just interesting me from a socialological perspective, the similarities, the experience of being, well, rich and famous.

Regarding the hassles and rewards, overall, it is probably a wash. And the typically friendly Indians give a pleasant spin to the whole experience. But we have had a taste of what the really famous suffer and enjoy.


*None of the following is especially profound, and many before I have commented on similar, but I thought I'd give my own slant.

Thursday, January 17, 2008

Experience in Bollywood, India

Anna's entry:

While in Mumbai, I met a Dutch lady Nanda who invited me join her for a Bollywood movie production as an extra. I thought it would be an interesting experience so I did. In addition, the movie was being directed by a very famous Indian director Madhur Bhandarkar, who raises controversial topics. This movie was not an exception. Called "Fashion" it is a movie portraying the other reality of the "glamorous" fashion world, behind the scenes - corruption, pressure, alcohol and drugs involved in a profession and life of a model. If interested, here is a link to the movie http://www.apunkachoice.com/scoop/bollywood/20060907-4.html.
It should be released in about six months or so.

Our "role" in the movie was simple - we were Western guests at a Fashion Show. We were put in the front row, and we ended up right next to the camera director, movie director, and producers. In that movie set, a staring actress was Priyanka Chapoor. I didn't know how famous she was until a local person explained to me how lucky we were to be on the set with her, because apparently every Indian person in a small village would know her name, and she also used to be Ms. Universe. Anyway, Priyanka seemed like a nice sweet girl, so that was cool. There were a lot of other famous actors and actresses, but I didn't catch all their names (I am not into idle building, and would make a bad groupie).

Every morning we were picked up and transported to the Bollywood studios. And days were LONG - we would start on a set around 9 a.m., and would be transported back to the hotel around 11 p.m. We were provided three meals a day, and some cash. But, the craziest part was our costumes and make up. Yep - the whole nine yards... As soon as we arrived to the studious we had to meet with a make-up artists. Let me tell you, traveling for a significant amount of time, I do not carry and do not use any make-up whatsoever. I forgot how to use it by now; not my make-up artist though! He wanted to make sure my eyes would be brought up, my lipstick would be compatible, etc. After each day on a set, I could not wash off the make-up off! But, my make-up artist was proud of his work, so he would run to the set from time to time to make sure it all looked good. Come on, I was just an extra! Yes - there may be a couple of camera shots, but who would notice, right? Wrong, Bollywood people seem to think that every detail counts. As an example, they were doing a camera scene of the audience. All of a sudden, an assistant director stopped the camera, and ordered to add a necklace to my dress, and earrings to the dress of my friend Nanda. I must explain, that on our first day on the set we were assigned a dress and even shoes in addition to the make up, so it was a "big deal". We were not allowed to take photos at the set to keep the movie confidentiality before it is released, but I do have a few shots with that special make-up on. Nanda and I had a great time, laughed a lot, joked around, went with a flow, and never took things seriously. However, I must say that for Indian people, being included in a Bollywood film, even as an extra, was a huge deal. We met lots of people that made their whole career and income from being an extra in Bollywood. So, that was an interesting social experience. On our last day of shooting, I brought Rob to the movie set, and he also ended up in several camera shots. He was put next to the film manager, who apparently shared some "Bollywood gossip" with him. I am sure Rob will write a fun piece about that. Over all, being on the Bollywood set was a fun experience, and adds up to our adventures in an unpredictable India.

With my friend Nanda



Bollywood make-up, can you believe it?!

Rob, the Bollywood boy. :)


On the Mumbai waterfront

Friday, January 11, 2008

Not so care-free India

Anna' s entry:

I have been writing about a lot of cool stuff in India, this entry, however, is different. India has some really big problems, and not just with the political, but every day life. Where to begin...

I have recently discovered an issue called "dowry death". Apparently, up till now there are numerous unpunished cases, when a wife is killed (a lot of times burnt) by her spouse if he does not receive enough dowry from a family. I am not making this up! The man keeps asking the wife's family for a lot of materialistic offerings, and sometimes if they do not comply, bad things happen to their daughter... My Indian lady friend explained to me, that even those who get caught and prosecuted, do not get more than 3 yeas in prison. Because the dowry death is not considered a homicide... Can you believe it??

The second issue that is challenging to deal with is over-population, and countless child beggars. Were were asked by locals to please not give beggars any money, because this promotes their status in society as beggars, and they will never try to escape it. In many occasions, children are exploited by parents, and it is parents that demand the money. A lot of kids have never been to school... We were told that if we want to help begging children, please do not give them or their parents any money. So, as hard as it is to ask them to go away, we do not encourage begging when it is forced upon us. We do share treats sometimes though with kids (and adults) that are not beggars. For instance, the other day we walking in Colaba (Mumbai neighborhood), and I saw a homeless lady tenderly touching the hair of a young boy laying next to her on the street. I returned back to her, and gave her a couple of chocolate cookies. She was not asking for anything, but I think she really appreciated the gesture - she gave me a big smile, and touched my hand gently. Or, in Mt. Abu, we saw a young girl playing on a street. She looked poor, but she seemed very independent and probably was even in school (education is her only chance). We came up to her father and asked his permission to share our fruits with her, he was OK with that. The girl was a little uneasy, but accepted our gesture. Over all, begging has been the most challenging part of the trip. Logic does not apply here...

During our past eight weeks of travel in India, we have met a lot of kind, caring, sincere individuals. But, we also encountered some very ugly scenes... Some of them we were just observers to, and some we (or at least I) encountered personally.

Recently, there were a lot of articles in local newspapers covering a topic about women being molested in crowds. It is a very frequent event. Let me tell you, I myself got " coincidentally touched" on my butt more than once when passing through the crowd. A lot of local Indian women have been complaining about constantly being exposed to it. The most frequent explanation I got was that the "molestation" is usually done by uneducated, ignorant men, usually having a poor family background, and usually from a village. Apparently, from an early age, boy and girls are separated in their schools, and boys grow up in an artificially closed in environment, hungry for a girl's attention, and not being to control themselves when an opportunity presents itself. I must say, we have witnessed a typical behavior of men with each other. A lot of times guys hold each other's hand, embrace each other, and sometimes sit in each other's lap. This has nothing to do with the homosexuality (they are all straight). Being deprived of a normal social exposure to girls, this is their way of getting some affection, from each other, and guys holding each other is the men's way of a non-sexual body contact. But, when it comes to groping and molesting women in crowds, that's a different story! I think this is an outrage! It is a violation of a woman's privacy! This is a treatment of a woman as an object, and I don't care what the background is! Come on - Indians invented the Kama Sutra, can't you just figure out other ways of expressing your sexual desires without groping women's butts in crowds?

India definitely has other major issues to be concerned about such as the violation of human rights, corruption, child labor, women abuse, over-population, and the list can go on. We personally have not encountred these issues, but they do exist. I truly believe that in education there lies a power of enlightenment, and hope. My suggestion for India would be to face the reality, stop spending time on sensationalizing a news about 1-lakh car (recent cheapest car in the world manufectured by Tata India), and spend more time on education of people, or it will be too late...

Celebraty in Colaba, Mumbai India

Guess who was in my neighborhood yesterday? Madonna, the singer (not the religious figure)... Yep - she is apparently also traveling around India (good for her!), and ended up here, in Mumbai. I am staying in the 'hood called Colaba (unofficial backpackers' headquarters), and this is where Madonna also ended up at. She went to the pub called Leopold's - it's the place catering for westerners, which I try to avoid. Leopold's is next to the real Indian eatery (for locals) - that's the one I go to. I was on my way to the internet cafe, also on the same block as Leopold's, and couldn't figure out why there was so much of police... Later on I watched the news, and yep, here it was - Madonna was having her lunch there. I must say I am gaining respect for her choice of travel. She could have selected Hawaii for her Christmas vacation, but instead she is traveling in India - a challenging destination in many ways. OK, you go girl!

Thursday, January 10, 2008

Pesonal note regarding this date

Anna's entry:

Today is January 11, 2008 - and this is the 9th anniversary since the death of my mom Galina. It has been nine yeas since she passed away from the breast cancer... I miss her, a lot... She was one of the most positive individuals I have ever known, her outlook on life was so inspiring. People always felt so much better after talking with her. She also loved to laugh, and tried to apply a sense of humor to the most challenging situations. I think she would have loved traveling in India! Till this day, I am very grateful to her for teaching me to never give up, and enjoy every day - no matter what it brings. This day is dedicated to her.

Tuesday, January 08, 2008

Khajuraho, India

Anna's entry:

The finest temple art in the world, this is what Khajuraho is famous for! And, I am not referring to the modest spiritual architecture, quite the opposite! Among the numerous intricate carvings, the obvious focus is apparent - people (and sometimes animals) and sex. I am not kidding you! This is Kama Sutra set in stone. The erotic content of the temple art is beautifully presented. Various temples show numerous sexual positions, quite acrobatic at times, sensuous illustrations, and passionate moments among men and women, and frequently between several men and women. :)
Once in a while, you may also come across erotic attempts of humans expressing their "interest" to animals. This is all beautifully presented (through detailed carvings), and one has to appreciate the unconventional interpretation of the temple artists of the 10th century! Obviously, it was the time of celebration of a human flash, perhaps it was a Renaissance of India? The temples are obviously dedicated to the Hindi Gods and Goddesses, and the views of the temples were incredible.

While walking around the temples, I encountered a large family of monkeys. Some tourists tried to harass them with their cameras, so monkeys were hissing at them. Instead I sat down on the edge of the temple, and let the monkeys do whatever they were doing. One of the female monkeys seemingly got used to me, and was sitting near me. She was holding something. I tried to see what it was, and she seemingly understood. She opened her arms, and it was a newly born baby monkey! It was tiny and hairless, and obviously the mom was very proud to show him or her to me. I took some photos, and thanked the mom. All of a sudden, a drama began developing. Some adult male monkeys began attacking her, perhaps, they were after her baby? She began racing like crazy, and the entire monkey family were screaming, and running in circle. Eventually, the drama subsided, and all quited down...

Another thing I wanted to comment on was our stay in Khajuraho. The room we had was very cheap, only $5. The hotel was also located across the road from the temples, and we had to go through a crowd of touts (sellers trying to offer you some crafts and other souvenir junk, or maybe not so much of junk as "art and crafts"). Anyway, since we had to walk through the art strip, we were always asked to come in and look at what was available, and it is very tiresome to be constantly hassled. The usual phrase would be "come to my store, just look, don't buy, you will make me very happy". After 1,000,000 times of being asked (though we refused every time to buy anything), we decided to have fun with it. We began replying with different jokes, and teasing the sellers. I think we got the right crowd, so we all began laughing eventually. On our departure day the touts were a kinda sad to see us leave, even though we did not buy anything from them, they sure appreciated good laughs with us. In one of the internet shops, we got to know the owner (Kumar), and we exchanged a collection of downloaded music. So, we've got the entire hot Indian techno-music, including my favourite Shah Rukh Haan.







Cup of chai in a tree house over looking the temples




The erotic carvings on temples






Monkeys around the temples


Proud mother


Feeding stray cows with orange peels

Bus rest

Sunday, January 06, 2008

Jhansi and Orcha, India

Anna's entry:

This was just a stop for us on our way to Khajuraho - the famous "Kama Sutra" temples. Getting from Jhansi to Orcha was an adventure in itself... Imagine an auto rickshaws, designed for four people (including driver). Well, we had 12 people in it, and the driver would have added more, but no one was waiting on the road. The experience was the same both ways. At one point, a family with a young baby wanted to jump into the rickshaw, so they stuck the baby wherever there was a space available, but seemingly it was a usual procedure, so everyone was happy.

Orcha is actually also known for its magnificent temples, but we decided to skip the high entrance fees, and just walk around the village. A lot of scenes there were happening. Spices were being sold, jewelery, colorings for women, clothes, and of course cows were running the entire show. Back in Jhansi, we got some good and cheap street stall food. A stall owner seemed to really like us, so when we would come to it, he would always throw fresh food in the boiling oil. Once another employee wanted to give us already prepared food that was slightly cold, the owner got upset at him, and ordered him to give us a real hot freshly prepared portion. That was cool! Especially, after Central America, where we were often discriminated, it is a refreshing change to be treated as guests of honor.

Taj Mahal, Agra India

Anna's entry:

They say you can not go to India and leave without being in Agra. Of course, they are referring to the world famous Taj Mahal. So, we headed out there solely for that person, plus Agra was on our way to explore India further East.

Do you know the history behind the Taj Mahal, the monument of love? It goes something like this...The Taj was built by Emperor Shah Jahan as a memorial for his second wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died giving birth to their 14th child in 1631. The death of Mumtaz left the emperor so heartbroken that his hair is said to have turned grey overnight. So, as a memorial to his beloved wife, he ordered to erect the Taj Mahal. The sad part is that not long after the Taj was finished, Shah Jahan was overthrown by his son and imprisoned in the Agra Fort (a lesson to parents - be careful how you raise your kids!). For the rest of his days, poor ex-emperor could only gaze at his creation from his prison window...

Going back to Taj Mahal. We decided to head out there early, and watch the sun rise over this magnificent monument of love, we got there by 6:00 a.m.. Unfortunately, that morning it was very foggy, so it took good three hours for the fog to disappear, but it also gave that mysterious mist... We spent about eleven hours at the Taj (partly it was because we wanted to justify the entrance fees which is around $19 per person). In addition to excellent photo opportunity, we spent a good share of time people watching.

Well, actually, to be exact, people were watching us. For some reason, Rob and I are getting an extremely high attention from the locals. Dozens and dozens of them would approach us, and ask if they can take a picture of us, or with us, or sometimes they just walk by and snap a shot with their cameras, not even asking us. We have tried to be very patient with their request, and hundreds of pictures with us are currently circulating around India. Oh boy, I'll tell you - I always wondered what it is like to be a celebrity, I don't any more... We have been paparazzied for hours, some people want to touch us, or shake our hands, and so many photo requests... We think the main reason is because we are the foreigners, or the "white people" as we put it, so it is somewhat exotic for a lot of locals here. However, once we attempted to get an explanation why so many people want our photo, and a local young guy looked straight at Rob and said "because you are attractive". We burst out laughing at such a direct matter-of-fact answer, and I told Rob, this was really good for his self esteem.

While at Taj Mahal, and accepting requests from the locals for a photo, at one point I ended up with a baby of a complete stranger in my hands, and next thing I know the entire family wanted to take a photo of this event. Oh boy, as I mentioned so many times, India is very unpredictable. We laugh a lot here, because you have to have a sense of humor to accept all the craziness happening around 24 hours a day, or you will go nuts yourself! :)

At 8:00 a.m. at Taj Mahal


At 11:00 a.m. at Taj Mahal


Locals families strolling around


Local school girls


Beautiful women of Rajastan






Other visitors


How did I end up with the baby??


Some posing


Taking a break (Rob is refusing to pose for me)




Udaipur and Mt. Abu, India

Rajastan, India
Anna's entry:

Udaipur was our first stop in Jajastan region of India. We stayed with a local family there. Anila, the mother of the family, is a professor at a local university, and she is nationally famous for production of mushrooms (the ones to eat, not the other kind). Anyway, Anila was a pioneer in India for cultivating mushrooms for Indian diet. It was her research lab that introduced this notion to Indians. Anila makes the best ginger masala chai, I could still taste it, it was so good!

Udaipur is a truly interesting place, just by walking around you cuold spend hours people gazing, cow gazing, donkey gazing, goat dazing, dog gazing, pig gazing, etc. The center piece of the city is the floating Lake Palace, part of Jame Bond movie "Octopussy" were filmed here. And, I just read in the local papers that American pop-star Madonna came here with her family for the New Year. Oh, boy, I sure hope she has a good sense of humor, or she will be up for a surprise what Udaipur streets are like. Also, I read that she is bringing lots of secret service in cars with her. How are the cars going to be moving around?? The streets are narrow, cows are laying right in the middle of the streets, donkeys and goats are stalling all the traffic, and I am not even mentioning the numerous auto-rickshaws... But, I am sure, she will figure this out, maybe a helicopter would be an option here. But, the city itself is very interesting. Palaces, colorful processions, incredible cultural experience, that's for sure!


The city view from the top of the hill


The magnificent City Palace, built in 1600


The cityscape, with the City Palace in the center


Lake Palace, where James Bond movie was shot


With our host Anila and her family


On the way to the Sunset Point


I was told that this is how I should properly sit in India


Rob still doesn't want to pose, but I made him


Udaipur is extremely photogenic


Colorful religious procession


Cows are given the yield of right anywhere here


Women of Udaipur


Strong and beautiful


Just another day in Udaipur...


The handsome old fellow


Women washing clothes


Camel ride in Udaipur




Mt. Abu

Mt. Abu is located about five hours by bus from Udaipur. It rises above southern Rajastan, cool on the hills of the baking dessert plains. It's a welcome hill station retreat, slow pace, and quite, especially compared to Udaipur. We spent over a week there, and were able to catch our breath, literally... The cities of India are very polluted, combined with the dessert air (with sand in the air), it was somewhat difficult to breath at times... But, Mt.Abu was a different story - the mountain air was fresh, and a lack of touts was a nice change. In addition, Mt. Abu has the finest carved temples in India, built in the 11th century, called Dilwara temples. Photography was not allowed, so I will try to describe them. Temples are entirely made of marble, and they are completely hand carved. About 2,500 workers worked on these temples, and it took them about 15 years to complete them. In places, the work is so fine, that the marble becomes almost transparent.

Another thing that we enjoyed in Mt. Abu was just a very common every-day-kind-of-thing occurrence. We really liked the market scene - we went there for breakfast to get a plate of pakoras and chai from a local stall. We became regulars there, so the stall owner would always throw some fresh pakora for us in the boiling oil. They were very tasty. While having our breakfast at a stall. we would frequently observe a funny scene - stray goats would always try to steal something from an unobservant seller. Sometimes it would be radishes, or carrots, or spinach, or anything green for that matter. When a seller would notice what was going on, he would start chasing a goat away, and in the meanwhile, another one would run to his cart, and make a helping to whatever was laying there. They are mischievous, those stray goats!

We also did a little hiking up the hill to watch the sunset, and just walked around the hills to get away from people, which is possible, but not for too long... We continued to receive numerous requests from locals for a photo of us or with them, so "paparazziness" continued. But, people were very sweet, so we did not refuse anyone a photo. By now we have got used to it. :)

Local love birds over Nakki Lake
(by the way, it was an arranged marriage couple)


Cows and temples, of course, why not?


Toad Rock over the Nakki Lake
(Former Maharaja (king) Palace on the background


Rob is looking cool
(He still refuses to pose for pictures,
so he is mocking my attempts)


At the Sunset Point


Ahhh... Finally away from people, for how long though?


Mt. Abu Market


Streets of Mt. Abu village


Cows, horses, goats, monkeys, people, business as usual


Anna feeding stray goat with orange peels, yamm....


Local kids playing


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