South Africa
Anna's entry:
Windhoek to Cape Town
...We have just completed our 5,500 kilometer journey in Namibia. Tonight we will take an over-night route to cross into South Africa - our next chapter of African adventure. Tonight will also be different from previous weeks of travel... I will not have to navigate and examine the roads, and Rob will not have to apply his master skills in getting us through deep sands of Kalahari - we both will have a luxury of giving up a full control and just enjoying our over-night ride on a bus from Windhoek to Cape Town.
However, as it seems to be the case with many of our travels - what was supposed to be a "normal" bus ride presented us with a few surprises...
As Rob and I were preparing our backpacks at Windhoek bus station for an over-night journey, a strangely familiar voice behind us said "Guys, when are we supposed to start boarding the bus then?". As we turned around, we saw Miley - our friend who was supposed to meet us in Cape Town, and who was the VERY reason we were heading out to Cape Town. After expressing our surprise to see him in "What-When-How-and-Why are you here?!", it became clear that spending time with Miley would be really fun.
Miley and his family had a fascinating story - originally from Cape Town, they had gone through and witnessed many turns of South Africa's history - apartheid, political changes, victories, downturns, you name it... Months later, Rob and I are still fascinated with the eye-witnessed details and stories that he shared with us, and we are very grateful for the time and experiences Miley and his family introduced us to during our visit in Cape Town. More details are coming up later in this chapter.
Going back to our over-night journey... As our bus was heading further and further South towards the border, we had yet another chance to enjoy the vast beauty of Kalahari - our last sunset in Namibia turned out to be another breath-taking sight and a beautiful finale and farewell to the country where we had experienced such an adventure for the past month.
As we reached the border with South Africa, our bus was searched by the border patrol officials. EVERYONE, except for (whatever reason) Rob and I, were ordered to get their bags outside the bus. I guess we looked either innocent enough (or too tired too care), that the officials did not even bother looking at our bags. They DID look, however, at the luggage belonging to two other passengers - South African Hells Angels (yes - those gentlemen were ALSO on our bus). Apparently, there were knives found packed in their bags, and our bus driver was scolded for not searching them properly. I am not sure what exactly was done about that, but about 25 minutes later we were ALL back on the bus to continue the journey. Our friend Miley (whose seat was right next to the above-mentioned Hells Angels) informed us that those two guys would not stop talking for hours and were using a lot of inappropriate language (to be expected), but they spoke in the PERFECT (educated) Afrikaans (not to be expected).
After thirteen hours on a bus, we met our first sunrise in South Africa. Seven more hours, and we were approaching the outskirts of Cape Town. And, there we were - the start of our South African adventure was about to begin...
Cape Town
Having a privilege of staying with our South African friends - Miley and Farieda, gave us a unique opportunity to experience the REAL Cape Town. Our friends exposed us to a genuine side of the local life that tourists so rarely (if not at all) are able to experience. We attended family gatherings, Birth Day parties, charity events, ethnic singing competitions; we had so many in-depth conversations and encounters - it was truly a treat and the best part of being in Cape Town. Our encounters and experiences were also unusual...
It is rare when you are enjoying a big party at a friend's house and you hear gun shots near by - it seems to be common here. It is rare when you take a leisurely drive, but you are instructed not to stop too long on a red light in fear to be attacked - it seems to be common here. It is rare that you and your friends should plan on driving in a convoy of cars - it seems to be common here. It is rare when you are warned against taking any form of public transport in fear to be robbed or shot - it seems to be common here. Even around Cape Town (that seems to be a positive anomaly of South Africa in terms of better safety and quality of life), there are series of neighbourhoods referred to as "kill-me-quick" towns. Rob and I have traveled a lot over the years - and we do travel in very unconventional ways and have been to a whole series of destinations that most people would simply avoid out of fear. We have come in contact with people with automatic guns, or put it simply - we have been in places that do not follow a rule of law; so we are familiar with a "rougher" side of travels. And yet - NOWHERE like here - in South Africa, we have been warned so much and so persistently by locals to be super vigilant and at ALL times. EVERY person we talked to, at some point living in South Africa had either been a victim of crime or/and knew someone who was a victim of crime. The horror stories that were shared with us by so many local residents were not only intense - they were sometimes too hard to believe, and yet they had happened.
On a brighter side of things. Meeting our friends' local friends and their family members were a real treat! We were invited to so many parties and celebrations that lasted well into the night! There were dances, singing, poetry recitals, concerts, food gatherings - just to name a few. Rob and I also became participants (and guests of honor) of a very unusual event - a charity party for seniors at a local nursing home in the Cape Town area. Our participation was cordially welcomed by a very appreciative audience of elderly residents, and our assignment was very enjoyable - to sing karaoke (songs I have never heard before) and do some pop-dancing (that one was quite familiar), and in between - enjoy local tasty treats... Another thing that also stayed in my mind was a provocative choice of music and songs that Malay (Muslim) ladies and gentlemen of Cape Town seem to enjoy. Sexy songs and dance moves of ladies dressed in a traditional Malay clothing were incredibly cute and entertaining. It was really fun to see and be a part of local festivities where people can genuinely enjoy themselves and have such a good time (and all without any presence of alcohol whatsoever)...
Another incredible experience that I absolutely adored was a close-up encounter with South African penguins. We spent the entire day surrounded by hundreds of them at a VERY close proximity. Observing their behaviour, interactions, family dynamics, rituals, being side-by-side with them - was an absolutely precious experience! I had researched and read about this particular location, but the actual encounters with those South African penguins most definitely exceeded my expectations.
Cape Town to Johannesburg
We have heard controversial things about taking an over-night train from Cape Town to Johannesburg. Local residents immediately expressed their concerns of the train being "unsafe" and admired our sense of adventure. On the other hand, my research showed that option as totally doable except for one thing - disregard the projected time table and plan for longer hours and unforeseen circumstances, and this is EXACTLY what happened.
What was projected to be a 26-hour train ride, in reality turned out to be a 36-hour ride. This time, the delays were (luckily) not due to the stolen rail pieces or electric cables needed for the train's operation (which, apparently, was quite common among entrepreneurial local residents). Our situation was quite simple - the train's engine was acting up throughout the journey, and eventually completely stopped working - so all passengers were stranded in the middle of nowhere about 6 hours away from Johannesburg. If it were to happen in the night hours, apparently, there was a more likelihood for the train to be hijacked (and passengers robbed). In our case, it was quite a bit mellower - being stranded in in the afternoon - the major issue was unbearable desert heat and occasional threats verbalized by walking-by residents. Rob and I were among a handful of foreign passengers, and the verbal threats seemed to be directed against the local South Africans - who were the majority of passengers on the train. I heard somebody shouting outside our train "You f.ckin' white farmers! You took our land from us!". As crude as it sounded, let's face it - in many ways it was actually the truth... South Africa (among other countries) has an undeniably sad and depressing repercussion - the result of colonization and mistreatment by European settlers. So, is it really that surprising that the wounds of the local population still largely disadvantaged are still so raw?
Going back to the train journey... The actual ride was really incredibly pretty and picturesque. And, the train itself was very comfortable. Rob and I had our own private compartment with lay-down beds, storage area, table, large window and (of course) massive heavy-duty locks on the door. Near by, we even had a real hot-water (and functioning) shower room. And, while the train was moving, we could walk along a hallway to enjoy the scenery on both sides of the train. Our train car's co-passengers were quite mellow and polite (except a couple of smoking dudes who I had to scold on a couple of occasions). I also seem to remember that two groups (who behaved more obnoxious) were offered (and escorted to) a different train car, after which our train ride became even more pleasant, and people even stopped locking their doors...
Our train being stranded status was actually a big advantage for Rob and me. I had done a prior detailed research about Johannesburg, and the city seemed straight from hell - local residents were warning that even arriving at the Central station there and transferring to a public transport could have major negative repercussions (our backpacks meant we were THE target). So, in our case, with the train's major delays and arriving in the late evening hours was almost a guarantee of things turning really badly... As we were sitting for hours on a stranded train, we were given an option of continuing our journey (for free) by a van, and we even had an option of by-passing the central Johannesburg all together and being dropped off at the airport - which is EXACTLY where we needed to be - to pick up our transfer the next morning and continue by road towards Mbombela (to start our Kruger adventure).
So, we agreed to continue by road and were accompanied to a van by train officials (armed with big sticks - apparently, as I was told, used to guard against snakes)... I loved the rest of our journey - our van's driver was a polite chatty young South African, who shared lots of local stories with me and answered dozens of my questions, plus we got to see lots of other towns and villages on the way.
So, after all, would I recommend taking the over-night train from Cape Town to Johannesburg? Hell, Yeah! With a little asterisk - as long as you keep in mind - your train might never make it to Johannesburg...
Johannesburg to Mbombela (Nelspruit)
After a delightful over-night rest on the abandoned restaurant sofa at the Johannesburg International Airport, it was time to locate our transport towards Nelspruit. I had made prior arrangements for the transfer company that had a good reputation and a funny name along with it "City Bug".
We started our 4-hour journey to Nelspruit around 7:30 in the morning. The driver was great! He unloaded on me (per my request) tons of local information, warnings, heads-up's and FYI's, explained the peculiar rules of the road, pointed out local driving threats, and even attempted to teach me the skills of identifying potential threats (attackers) and techniques of preventing it. Needless to say, by now we have gotten used to the warnings and potential dangers of South Africa. I can't say the same though about other co-passengers in our van (two Swedish girls in particular) - they looked in "absolute horror" from what they were hearing - I guess they may have been just starting their journey... The driver might have been a bit over-vigilant with all his warnings and instructions, but hey - he lives there, so his suggestions were noted and appreciated. All good info considering we would be spending next 21-days driving in that area.
We had one advantage working in our favour though - we are dedicating ALL 21-days to Kruger National Park, but of course, we still had a number if practical stops on the way there which included the following - picking up our rental vehicle, getting a local sim card for emergency calling, and most importantly - getting our 21-day food supply (for camping and exploring Kruger's vast wilderness).
I don't think we have EVER bought that much food and that much variety in one grocery shopping transaction. Also, we have NEVER bought that much wine and Amarula (considering both Rob and I enjoy it in VERY modest moderation). But, South African wine was incredibly tasty and cheap, and Amarula Cream was incredibly tasty and cheapER than in North America. Once all our practical errands were completed, we started our drive towards the Kruger National Park - our home and adventure for the next 21 days...
Kruger National Park - our 21 days of wild life around wildlife
Kruger National Park is world-famous for being a refuge to an amazing variety of wildlife. It is also one of largest protected areas extending about 360 km (220 mi) from North to South and 65 km (40 mi) from East to West - basically, this national park is a size of a small country. And, yet - it is puzzling to me that people come here just for a couple of days to over-spend thousands of dollars on touristy lodges and be driven on silly safari vehicles just to have a quick preview of the animals... This approach is absolutely unacceptable for our liking. Through my extensive research I made a conclusion - we need to dedicate at least THREE WEEKS and explore Southern, Central, and Northern areas of Kruger. No lodges - camping (with our own tent), no over-priced restaurants (bringing all our food supplies with us to be supplemented with occasional local treats from picnic cafes and camps), no safari vehicles - drive our own car as much and far as we are pleased, and spending the ENTIRE day with and around animals - that means leaving our camp at sunrise and coming back at sunset. My approach paid off - BIG! People kept asking us, "So, did you get to see all Big 5?". Our answer - "You mean - Big 7? Yes - and that was not the best part..."
Southern Kruger
Areas explored: Malelane, Berg-en-Dal,Crocodile River, Skukuza, Lower Sabie, Pretoriuskop
--Berg-en-Dal
I remember waking up to a strange noise not too far from our tent. The sound grew louder and louder and coming closer and closer... As I pulled our tent cover door opened, there it was above the bushes - a really large head...of an elephant. And, she was hungry. For her breakfast she made numerous passes collecting with her skillful trunk anything edible on her way. She was parading back and forth, and did not seem to be in too much rush to finish her meal. Her appetite was contagious, and Rob and I decided to make our breakfast as well. We sat down with our fruits, cereal and milk (made out of dry milk powder) and enjoyed the show. About fifteen minutes later, the female elephant made her pass right in front of us - we had a fence separating our campsite from her territory (otherwise, we would not dare to get out food provisions out). The elephant seemed to be done eating, but the show continued... She was incredibly cute and I think she knew it. She seemed entirely relaxed, and as she approached our campsite border she started making all kind of cute gestures with her head and trunk. We have researched elephant's warning signs (when they are threatened, for example), and those were not it. It almost looked like the elephant was totally showing off - probably encouraged by my baby talk with her (which Rob was rolling up his eyes about). After the elephant had her share of fun, she resumed her breakfast ritual, and Rob and I packed our tent and started our independent self-drive safari around the area.
Very shortly after living Berg-en-Dal, we came across two large water buffaloes enjoying their bath by the side of the road. One of them was also getting his face cleaned by a bright-red bird trying to collect the bugs from around his eyes, nose and ears. As we proceeded further, we came across herds of zebras, impalas, kudus; and while slowly crossing one of numerous bridges - we were presented with a very special and rare up-close sighting of a rhino. The latter is still (unfortunately) sought after by poachers - a ruthless business catering mainly to the wealthy Chinese. Rhinos' poaching is unbelievably sad and heart-breaking - we got to know a local ranger later on during our journey in Kruger who shared with us a lot of stories about the fight in attempts to save Kruger's rhinos...
--Skukuza
Absolutely LOVED our l-o-o-o-n-g drives around this area. I had us on the tough schedule though - we left at sunrise and came back at sunset (I would personally stay even later, but we had to follow the rules to come back with our vehicle before the gate to our camp was closed). We spent so many hours around a fantastic amount and variety of wildlife. A few of my favourite recollections about the area follow below.
One of the mornings when we started our self-drive at sunrise, we crossed paths with a ranger who told us about a leopard near by. Leopard is one of several very elusive animals that is pretty tough to find. As we were heading in that direction, we came across a family of hyenas (probably returning back from their night hunt), and an antelope. Shortly after, high in a tree and quite well camouflaged, there he was - that special leopard. His paws were hanging off the tree brunch, and he was not in a rush to move. Luckily for us, he changed his position, and we made an eye contact.
As we proceeded further along a gravel road in our tiny (but mighty) car, we were passed by a large safari vehicle drastically exceeding speed limits. A driver looked excited, he mumbled somethings to us very quickly and enthusiastically as he was driving away in a fury. A split of a second later - and my Rob, just like Mario Andretti, was racing right behind the safari driver. "Rob - what did that driver said?" Rob's reply - "I have no idea, but that a..hole is driving like hell, so it MUST be something good". And there we were - we also became a..holes driving like hell... On a couple of instances, I could swear, I felt our car was airborne... I don't know how many kilometers exactly we covered or how long, but eventually we saw a group of motionless HUGE safari vehicles gathered ahead of us. And, finally, we saw what the rush was about - right in front of, a LARGE group of lions and cubs were completely blocking the road. And, the lions were not in a rush to move. We enjoyed watching them for a long time before proceeding further (well, actually - backwards, because lions refused to give anybody the right of way)...
Our fun in Skukuza for next several days was not over. Prior to us coming here, in my research about Kruger, I came across something unusual - a gold course... I can't care less about gold courses, but this one was different - it was not your usual green field with uptight players. It apparently was also a home to another group of residents - hippos and impalas. Well, that kind of golf course was on my list to check out. And, YES - it was as true as described. Hippos were all over the large pond, impalas were all over the green manicured field. I will never forget it - splashing hippos in the foreground and golf carts on the on the background...
As we were leaving that "hippo-infested" golf course, we realized we were running a bit late... It was almost the sunset, and the entrance gate to our camp would be closed shortly. As we were on the final stretch of the road, we came to a stall... ANOTHER leopard was walking along the road - TOWARDS us! That one didn't seem that elusive to us. He came so close to our vehicle, he almost brushed against it as he was leisurely continuing his way further. As we proceeded driving towards our camp, we had to stop again shortly - a big elephant blocked the road, so we had to wait - again. Now - THAT is a kind of traffic jam I love! And yes - we were a bit late for the gate closing, but the local authorities do accept "an-elephant-blocked-my-way" excuses around here, so they just gave us a mild scolding for being a bit late this time...
--Lower Sabie
Another of my favourite areas of Kruger! Hippos, crocodiles, zebras, giraffes, elephants, lions, warthogs, wildebeests, rare birds and mischievous macaques - how could you wrong with such an exciting company?
Camping all over the park and driving from sunrise to sunset really exposed us to many animals and their habits. And, there is one animal in particular that we consistently find really endearing - giraffe. Their gentle nature, beauty and elegance just have stolen our hearts. On one of our rides, we got stuck in a rain storm. The relief from the heat was probably quite a welcome respite for many Kruger's residents - they came out in dozens, all mixed up together in large groups - giraffes, zebras, impalas, wildebeests, etc. We pulled over in one of the spots, and shortly after, our car was surrounded by large herds of animals. In our side mirrors we could see a long processions of giraffes, appearing from a jungle of trees like stately statues - bigger than life... At one point we looked above us, and there were two large tall giraffes marching right next to us - they were so close, it would have been possible to stretch our arm and touch them. The roof top of our car was lower than their bellies - against their magnificent size, we were like a chihuahua against a Great Dane. And, yet their soft gentle walk, and the way they look straight into your eyes with their big beautiful eyes and long eyelashes - it makes you feel so serene, and you just can't help but fall in love with them right from a start! As I am writing this blog months later, I still clearly remember their big adorable eyes looking right at me and their undeniably gentle disposition that we were so fortunate to experience...
--Pretoriuskop
...was our least favourite area. We had a perfectly comfortable campsite (and facilities), but the amount and variety of wildlife in the area was just not that exciting (a few pictures below were done during further drives out in that area). As a matter of fact - the closest proximity to Pretoriuskop had none - except for the fact that our camping area was surrounded by scorpions. That became clear after Rob joined for a walk the camp ranger who was making his casual night rounds with a special torch light in his hands. As he shined it on the ground, scorpions became very obvious. Needless to say - as soon as we returned back home from our trip, Rob immediately ordered a special scorpion-light to take with us on the next trip. So, the Pretoriuskop camping was not a complete waste of time and did provide us with a practical knowledge. Oh, and yes - I did find a baby cottonmouth snake while we were walking (along a sealed path) at night through the campground. No wonder, mongoose look pretty healthy and well-fed around Kruger...
Central Kruger
Areas explored: Satara, Maroela, Balule, Olifants, Orpen
--Satara
This area has always been known as a Big Cat territory. We were exploring it during African Spring though - which meant taller grass and a lot more challenging to see. On the other hand, Spring also meant a lot of young animals around - allowing predators an access for weaker targets. We did dedicate a good amount of our time and patience covering various routes, and were rewarded with quite a few interesting sightings.
Among the bigger predators - besides lions, we crossed our path with a family of cheetahs - four of them at once! We also had another excellent sighting of four rhinos, and by now we stopped counting hippos, buffaloes, zebras, giraffes, and elephants. Speaking of the latter - lately we have been having a lot of them sharing the roadway with us, and they seem to be getting bigger and bigger... Rob has gotten quite proficient driving backwards - some elephants insist of walking a straight line, and when it is a narrow road and there is nowhere to turn - you learn how to drive backwards for a while. In our opinion - the right of way belongs to the animals and we are the guests there...
There is also an amazing variety of bird-life around here. Some images are almost whimsical. Every day there is a surprise appearance or something unexpected - having a flexibility of time, patience and perseverance are huge factors as well.
Speaking of surprises - we had one in Satara... After leaving our camp for a long drive at sunrise, upon return we discovered that our tent was damaged. Apparently, they were trimming the grass around our camp, and a sharp rock cut our tent fly. To make us feel better, a camp manager offered us a complimentary over-night stay at one of their (over-priced) fully-equipped AC bungalows - the only non-tent accommodation we experienced in Kruger (ALL our nights there were spent in our tent under opened skies - by choice). The bungalow was comfortable, but felt isolating - instead of hyenas or lions at night, we could hear a sound of AC. We did appreciate a refrigerator though - it was a real treat to drink COLD juice and actually enjoy a couple of cubes of ice with out Amarula. But, honestly - camping was really a part of adventure, and we had a comfortable home waiting for us after the trip. For the complete disclosure though - a grassy patch, and not rocks or thorns under our tent could have made our camping more enjoyable.
--Maroela
One of three more primitive camps (I have chosen for us) in Kruger, without electricity at night - just the kerosene lamp in the ablution block and nightly stars above us. We picked our campsite on the corner for an exposed view of the area. Hyena was patrolling the fence at night which we have grown used to. We continued our leave-at-sunrise-come-back-at-sunset schedule, and explored more routes and gravel roads in the area in our little brave car.
On a number of occasions we encountered one individual elephant with a very specific feature - he had a clearly visible hole in one of his ears. After further inquiries, it was agreed that it was likely a trace of the bullet that poachers may have left him with as their souvenir... I don't have the details, but have an idea what trauma this poor elephant may have gone through - if he witnessed the cruel act of his elephant family members to be eradicated, or he himself was a victim of crime and survived the bullet... I do remember, however, that he always walked alone, and his eyes were very sad... In the moments like that, it makes me ashamed to be associated with humans, and what we are capable of because of our insatiable greed...
--Balule
Every day brings up something special and unexpected. I couldn't seem to get enough of it. Even though our schedules have been packed and we have been covering hundreds of kilometers driving all possible routes in Kruger, there is always an up-close encounter with wild-life and nature.
We have grown used to by now to be sharing roads on a normal basis with elephants, giraffes, zebras, impalas, wildebeests (at times - all at once); and yet - it is always endearing and magical to be there, and at least for that moment live in the fairy-tale.
The unusual encounters didn't stop at sunset. Last night, for example, the roaring of lions and stomping of elephants continued for most of the night. I was feeling a bit grouchy the next morning - due to the disturbed and interrupted sleep (or a lack of sleep to be more precise), but on the other hand - how often do we have a chance to be mad at lions and elephants instead of our normal neighbours?
Northern Kruger
Areas explored: Letaba, Tzendze, Mopani, Shingwedze
--Letaba
Letaba and the area surrounding it was very special. We also enjoyed a peaceful and spacious campsite covered by thick canopy of trees with bush babies climbing around the brunches - very exotic setting indeed.
But, Letaba area of Kruger became so memorable was for the reasons one might not expect. I have chosen to completely dedicate this entry to three main plot heroes - hyenas, elephants, and Rob. Not in order of importance (of course), but due to the logical course of events. Below is a synopsis of what had happened...
A.M. - Hyenas
What was supposed to be a "normal" sunrise drive had an unusual encounter. While driving in the area, we noticed a commotion alongside the road. We pulled over to check it out and realized we came across a den with a large family of hyenas. Not a big deal, we thought, and we paused for a while to enjoy them. Hyenas, actually, were absolutely phenomenal as parents - the interactions of adult members with young pups were incredible. The young hyenas were also super cute - they were playing and chasing each other, chewing on sticks, and doing all kind of cute puppy-like things. Then, we realized it had gotten a kind of quiet, and we could no longer see the young hyenas in a plain sight... Where were they? Then, Rob and I realized that a bunch of them got under our vehicle, and we began hearing chewing noises. What do we do, and most importantly - what are they chewing on?! Hyenas' teeth are pretty sharp (we saw them!), and a lot of hyenas meant a lot of sharp teeth... "I hope the hyenas are not chewing away our breaks...", I quietly said to Rob. Try explaining THAT to the car rental company. We realized there were a bunch of other cars gathered on the road, and people were probably having a good time videoing what was happening. So, enough of chewing we thought, and Rob gently began moving back and forth the manual gear swifter. That was a smart move on Rob's part - hyenas got startled without getting hurt, and a stream of them began running from under our car. We still don't know the extent of their "fun chewing", but it didn't seem like any damage was done, and the car operated totally normal. That was a good thing, because we needed it for the next event described below.
A.M. and P.M. - Elephants
We proceeded driving and exploring area further, and took a gravel (but well established) route following a river. We saw something moving on the opposite bank of the wide river; and that "something" was becoming bigger and bigger and bigger... A red cloud of dust, like a storm in a desert, was also taking a larger size. And then we saw them - group after group after group of elephants marching down towards the river, 20-25 elephant members at a time. A rough conservative estimate - there were about 125 of them. Surely, they are not planning to cross the river and come onto our side? Think again... They were crossing over onto our side. I thought to myself - the shores are pretty steep, and surely it will take them some time to cross over where we were! Think again... Apparently, they are fast walkers (and climbers)... Elephants began crossing in front of us AND behind us in BIG numbers, AND they had lots young babies with them... We had three choices - take chances and move forward (too late), start moving backwards (oops, also too late), stay still and wait (really?), or move forward-backwards and stay still - depending how close the elephants were crossing, and what kind of mood individual groups were in. And, this is EXACTLY what we did - TWO times that day actually, because (later that afternoon) on the way back those lovely 125 creatures decided to return back home to the other side of the river, and SO DID WE - we also had to take the same road back to return to our "home" - our campground...
A.M.and P.M. and days prior - The Hero of the Day award goes to... Rob!
Rob has become the most masterful driver of all times around elephants. We have been on opened roads for a while now... It is nature, and it is impossible to predict at all times where the animals might appear and when... For past two months (both in Namibia and South Africa) we had a number of REALLY close encounters with single male elephants, with mother-elephants, with baby-elephants, with mothers-and-babies-elephants, with small groups of elephants, with large groups of elephants. Rob had to drive in sand, gravel, up the hill, down the hill, forward, backwards, and always with the utmost respect to those giants. He still remains the most patient companion and humble person you can imagine. I guess, great people don't need to be vocal about their greatness. And, this is one of MANY reasons I call him MIGHTY ROB.
--Tzendze
Another excellent primitive peaceful camp located in Northern Kruger. A local caretaker was a lovely lady and showed my several trees with resident owls. There were some nice routes around the area, and Rob and I set off driving to explore this part of Kruger further.
We did encounter yet another LARGE family of lions. These lions looked a bit older, and you could see some scars on their faces - probably the result of prior hunting battles. They were resting close to the road and in the open, but well camouflaged in the sun-bleached grass. We were fortunate to find them and enjoyed watching their interaction for a while at a close distance. It was definitely a pleasant highlight of our daily drive.
--Shingwedze
We reached our out-most Northern turn-around point prior to heading back South... And, Shingwedze did not disappoint - so glad I chose to bring us here! First of all, most visitors don't go that far North, and the area is not as popular as Skukuza per say. It worked totally for our benefit - there were rarely any safari vehicles, and the place seemed so pristine and peaceful.
Despite a "popular" opinion that Northern Kruger is not known for abundance of wildlife, we had a number of major sightings around this area. First of all - another elusive leopard sighting, and at a relatively close proximity. Secondly - another fantastic viewing (and also at a close proximity) of four cheetahs. Thirdly - the largest elephants (with biggest tusks) were quite frequent. Another unique feature about this isolated area was that the animals we had already seen in other parts of Kruger were appearing here in really LARGE groups - large hordes of buffaloes (that everyone is longing to see down South) were frequently and casually crossing their paths with us here. Large herds of wildebeests, zebras, and elephants seemed like a common thing for us as well. I kept thinking about our chat with a local South African gentleman a couple of weeks prior - he told us that if we ever would make it up North, everything would become bigger and in bigger numbers. He was so right! And why not - the areas here up North were so vast and perfectly fitted for animals to roam around.
Having an unlimited access pass to Kruger also meant we could utilize any picnic stop-overs and/or facilities of other satellite camps. And, believe us when we say - swimming pools after excruciating heat and a long day of driving was a cherished respite. Kitchens were also available to use pretty much at any campground we stayed at. And, another bonus - wild growing Marula trees were in full harvest and we could pick up as many berries as we wanted to enjoy.
I will always have fond memories of the Shingwedze region...
Kruger - Return Finale
Well, we have completed our exploration of Kruger National Park. Prior 21 days were nothing short of a spectacular fairy-tale living. Unbelievable encounters with wild-life were worth every effort, planning, research, and commitment. I am so glad we did it independently! We spent countless hours with lions, cheetahs, leopards, elephants, rhinos, buffaloes, hippos, giraffes, zebras, hyenas, macaques, mongoose, impalas, kudus - just to name a few. Meeting every sunrise and sunset with the wildlife was special and worth every minute of the journey.
I feel so unbelievably fortunate to be able to experience and live every minute of it. The countless hours of research and planning definitely paid off BIG.
As we were heading back to our exit point at Kruger, we had yet another chance to say good-bye to the amazing wildlife - large groups of animals that we had so grown accustomed to see on a daily basis were meeting us on our road back. It was almost as if they were bidding their final good-bye... I am writing this blog several months later and yet I clearly and visibly see the images of the magnificent animals we were so lucky to see and spend our time with.
We also have to remember - great power comes with great responsibility. The wildlife of Kruger, though protected at the moment, is vulnerable. Every day, innocent animals are slaughtered and poached. Please do NOT contribute to this slaughter - you know better!
To be continued - Qatar and Morocco are next...
Windhoek to Cape Town
...We have just completed our 5,500 kilometer journey in Namibia. Tonight we will take an over-night route to cross into South Africa - our next chapter of African adventure. Tonight will also be different from previous weeks of travel... I will not have to navigate and examine the roads, and Rob will not have to apply his master skills in getting us through deep sands of Kalahari - we both will have a luxury of giving up a full control and just enjoying our over-night ride on a bus from Windhoek to Cape Town.
However, as it seems to be the case with many of our travels - what was supposed to be a "normal" bus ride presented us with a few surprises...
As Rob and I were preparing our backpacks at Windhoek bus station for an over-night journey, a strangely familiar voice behind us said "Guys, when are we supposed to start boarding the bus then?". As we turned around, we saw Miley - our friend who was supposed to meet us in Cape Town, and who was the VERY reason we were heading out to Cape Town. After expressing our surprise to see him in "What-When-How-and-Why are you here?!", it became clear that spending time with Miley would be really fun.
Miley and his family had a fascinating story - originally from Cape Town, they had gone through and witnessed many turns of South Africa's history - apartheid, political changes, victories, downturns, you name it... Months later, Rob and I are still fascinated with the eye-witnessed details and stories that he shared with us, and we are very grateful for the time and experiences Miley and his family introduced us to during our visit in Cape Town. More details are coming up later in this chapter.
Going back to our over-night journey... As our bus was heading further and further South towards the border, we had yet another chance to enjoy the vast beauty of Kalahari - our last sunset in Namibia turned out to be another breath-taking sight and a beautiful finale and farewell to the country where we had experienced such an adventure for the past month.
As we reached the border with South Africa, our bus was searched by the border patrol officials. EVERYONE, except for (whatever reason) Rob and I, were ordered to get their bags outside the bus. I guess we looked either innocent enough (or too tired too care), that the officials did not even bother looking at our bags. They DID look, however, at the luggage belonging to two other passengers - South African Hells Angels (yes - those gentlemen were ALSO on our bus). Apparently, there were knives found packed in their bags, and our bus driver was scolded for not searching them properly. I am not sure what exactly was done about that, but about 25 minutes later we were ALL back on the bus to continue the journey. Our friend Miley (whose seat was right next to the above-mentioned Hells Angels) informed us that those two guys would not stop talking for hours and were using a lot of inappropriate language (to be expected), but they spoke in the PERFECT (educated) Afrikaans (not to be expected).
After thirteen hours on a bus, we met our first sunrise in South Africa. Seven more hours, and we were approaching the outskirts of Cape Town. And, there we were - the start of our South African adventure was about to begin...
Cape Town
Having a privilege of staying with our South African friends - Miley and Farieda, gave us a unique opportunity to experience the REAL Cape Town. Our friends exposed us to a genuine side of the local life that tourists so rarely (if not at all) are able to experience. We attended family gatherings, Birth Day parties, charity events, ethnic singing competitions; we had so many in-depth conversations and encounters - it was truly a treat and the best part of being in Cape Town. Our encounters and experiences were also unusual...
It is rare when you are enjoying a big party at a friend's house and you hear gun shots near by - it seems to be common here. It is rare when you take a leisurely drive, but you are instructed not to stop too long on a red light in fear to be attacked - it seems to be common here. It is rare that you and your friends should plan on driving in a convoy of cars - it seems to be common here. It is rare when you are warned against taking any form of public transport in fear to be robbed or shot - it seems to be common here. Even around Cape Town (that seems to be a positive anomaly of South Africa in terms of better safety and quality of life), there are series of neighbourhoods referred to as "kill-me-quick" towns. Rob and I have traveled a lot over the years - and we do travel in very unconventional ways and have been to a whole series of destinations that most people would simply avoid out of fear. We have come in contact with people with automatic guns, or put it simply - we have been in places that do not follow a rule of law; so we are familiar with a "rougher" side of travels. And yet - NOWHERE like here - in South Africa, we have been warned so much and so persistently by locals to be super vigilant and at ALL times. EVERY person we talked to, at some point living in South Africa had either been a victim of crime or/and knew someone who was a victim of crime. The horror stories that were shared with us by so many local residents were not only intense - they were sometimes too hard to believe, and yet they had happened.
On a brighter side of things. Meeting our friends' local friends and their family members were a real treat! We were invited to so many parties and celebrations that lasted well into the night! There were dances, singing, poetry recitals, concerts, food gatherings - just to name a few. Rob and I also became participants (and guests of honor) of a very unusual event - a charity party for seniors at a local nursing home in the Cape Town area. Our participation was cordially welcomed by a very appreciative audience of elderly residents, and our assignment was very enjoyable - to sing karaoke (songs I have never heard before) and do some pop-dancing (that one was quite familiar), and in between - enjoy local tasty treats... Another thing that also stayed in my mind was a provocative choice of music and songs that Malay (Muslim) ladies and gentlemen of Cape Town seem to enjoy. Sexy songs and dance moves of ladies dressed in a traditional Malay clothing were incredibly cute and entertaining. It was really fun to see and be a part of local festivities where people can genuinely enjoy themselves and have such a good time (and all without any presence of alcohol whatsoever)...
Another incredible experience that I absolutely adored was a close-up encounter with South African penguins. We spent the entire day surrounded by hundreds of them at a VERY close proximity. Observing their behaviour, interactions, family dynamics, rituals, being side-by-side with them - was an absolutely precious experience! I had researched and read about this particular location, but the actual encounters with those South African penguins most definitely exceeded my expectations.
Cape Town to Johannesburg
We have heard controversial things about taking an over-night train from Cape Town to Johannesburg. Local residents immediately expressed their concerns of the train being "unsafe" and admired our sense of adventure. On the other hand, my research showed that option as totally doable except for one thing - disregard the projected time table and plan for longer hours and unforeseen circumstances, and this is EXACTLY what happened.
What was projected to be a 26-hour train ride, in reality turned out to be a 36-hour ride. This time, the delays were (luckily) not due to the stolen rail pieces or electric cables needed for the train's operation (which, apparently, was quite common among entrepreneurial local residents). Our situation was quite simple - the train's engine was acting up throughout the journey, and eventually completely stopped working - so all passengers were stranded in the middle of nowhere about 6 hours away from Johannesburg. If it were to happen in the night hours, apparently, there was a more likelihood for the train to be hijacked (and passengers robbed). In our case, it was quite a bit mellower - being stranded in in the afternoon - the major issue was unbearable desert heat and occasional threats verbalized by walking-by residents. Rob and I were among a handful of foreign passengers, and the verbal threats seemed to be directed against the local South Africans - who were the majority of passengers on the train. I heard somebody shouting outside our train "You f.ckin' white farmers! You took our land from us!". As crude as it sounded, let's face it - in many ways it was actually the truth... South Africa (among other countries) has an undeniably sad and depressing repercussion - the result of colonization and mistreatment by European settlers. So, is it really that surprising that the wounds of the local population still largely disadvantaged are still so raw?
Going back to the train journey... The actual ride was really incredibly pretty and picturesque. And, the train itself was very comfortable. Rob and I had our own private compartment with lay-down beds, storage area, table, large window and (of course) massive heavy-duty locks on the door. Near by, we even had a real hot-water (and functioning) shower room. And, while the train was moving, we could walk along a hallway to enjoy the scenery on both sides of the train. Our train car's co-passengers were quite mellow and polite (except a couple of smoking dudes who I had to scold on a couple of occasions). I also seem to remember that two groups (who behaved more obnoxious) were offered (and escorted to) a different train car, after which our train ride became even more pleasant, and people even stopped locking their doors...
Our train being stranded status was actually a big advantage for Rob and me. I had done a prior detailed research about Johannesburg, and the city seemed straight from hell - local residents were warning that even arriving at the Central station there and transferring to a public transport could have major negative repercussions (our backpacks meant we were THE target). So, in our case, with the train's major delays and arriving in the late evening hours was almost a guarantee of things turning really badly... As we were sitting for hours on a stranded train, we were given an option of continuing our journey (for free) by a van, and we even had an option of by-passing the central Johannesburg all together and being dropped off at the airport - which is EXACTLY where we needed to be - to pick up our transfer the next morning and continue by road towards Mbombela (to start our Kruger adventure).
So, we agreed to continue by road and were accompanied to a van by train officials (armed with big sticks - apparently, as I was told, used to guard against snakes)... I loved the rest of our journey - our van's driver was a polite chatty young South African, who shared lots of local stories with me and answered dozens of my questions, plus we got to see lots of other towns and villages on the way.
So, after all, would I recommend taking the over-night train from Cape Town to Johannesburg? Hell, Yeah! With a little asterisk - as long as you keep in mind - your train might never make it to Johannesburg...
Johannesburg to Mbombela (Nelspruit)
After a delightful over-night rest on the abandoned restaurant sofa at the Johannesburg International Airport, it was time to locate our transport towards Nelspruit. I had made prior arrangements for the transfer company that had a good reputation and a funny name along with it "City Bug".
We started our 4-hour journey to Nelspruit around 7:30 in the morning. The driver was great! He unloaded on me (per my request) tons of local information, warnings, heads-up's and FYI's, explained the peculiar rules of the road, pointed out local driving threats, and even attempted to teach me the skills of identifying potential threats (attackers) and techniques of preventing it. Needless to say, by now we have gotten used to the warnings and potential dangers of South Africa. I can't say the same though about other co-passengers in our van (two Swedish girls in particular) - they looked in "absolute horror" from what they were hearing - I guess they may have been just starting their journey... The driver might have been a bit over-vigilant with all his warnings and instructions, but hey - he lives there, so his suggestions were noted and appreciated. All good info considering we would be spending next 21-days driving in that area.
We had one advantage working in our favour though - we are dedicating ALL 21-days to Kruger National Park, but of course, we still had a number if practical stops on the way there which included the following - picking up our rental vehicle, getting a local sim card for emergency calling, and most importantly - getting our 21-day food supply (for camping and exploring Kruger's vast wilderness).
I don't think we have EVER bought that much food and that much variety in one grocery shopping transaction. Also, we have NEVER bought that much wine and Amarula (considering both Rob and I enjoy it in VERY modest moderation). But, South African wine was incredibly tasty and cheap, and Amarula Cream was incredibly tasty and cheapER than in North America. Once all our practical errands were completed, we started our drive towards the Kruger National Park - our home and adventure for the next 21 days...
Kruger National Park - our 21 days of wild life around wildlife
Kruger National Park is world-famous for being a refuge to an amazing variety of wildlife. It is also one of largest protected areas extending about 360 km (220 mi) from North to South and 65 km (40 mi) from East to West - basically, this national park is a size of a small country. And, yet - it is puzzling to me that people come here just for a couple of days to over-spend thousands of dollars on touristy lodges and be driven on silly safari vehicles just to have a quick preview of the animals... This approach is absolutely unacceptable for our liking. Through my extensive research I made a conclusion - we need to dedicate at least THREE WEEKS and explore Southern, Central, and Northern areas of Kruger. No lodges - camping (with our own tent), no over-priced restaurants (bringing all our food supplies with us to be supplemented with occasional local treats from picnic cafes and camps), no safari vehicles - drive our own car as much and far as we are pleased, and spending the ENTIRE day with and around animals - that means leaving our camp at sunrise and coming back at sunset. My approach paid off - BIG! People kept asking us, "So, did you get to see all Big 5?". Our answer - "You mean - Big 7? Yes - and that was not the best part..."
Southern Kruger
Areas explored: Malelane, Berg-en-Dal,Crocodile River, Skukuza, Lower Sabie, Pretoriuskop
--Berg-en-Dal
I remember waking up to a strange noise not too far from our tent. The sound grew louder and louder and coming closer and closer... As I pulled our tent cover door opened, there it was above the bushes - a really large head...of an elephant. And, she was hungry. For her breakfast she made numerous passes collecting with her skillful trunk anything edible on her way. She was parading back and forth, and did not seem to be in too much rush to finish her meal. Her appetite was contagious, and Rob and I decided to make our breakfast as well. We sat down with our fruits, cereal and milk (made out of dry milk powder) and enjoyed the show. About fifteen minutes later, the female elephant made her pass right in front of us - we had a fence separating our campsite from her territory (otherwise, we would not dare to get out food provisions out). The elephant seemed to be done eating, but the show continued... She was incredibly cute and I think she knew it. She seemed entirely relaxed, and as she approached our campsite border she started making all kind of cute gestures with her head and trunk. We have researched elephant's warning signs (when they are threatened, for example), and those were not it. It almost looked like the elephant was totally showing off - probably encouraged by my baby talk with her (which Rob was rolling up his eyes about). After the elephant had her share of fun, she resumed her breakfast ritual, and Rob and I packed our tent and started our independent self-drive safari around the area.
Very shortly after living Berg-en-Dal, we came across two large water buffaloes enjoying their bath by the side of the road. One of them was also getting his face cleaned by a bright-red bird trying to collect the bugs from around his eyes, nose and ears. As we proceeded further, we came across herds of zebras, impalas, kudus; and while slowly crossing one of numerous bridges - we were presented with a very special and rare up-close sighting of a rhino. The latter is still (unfortunately) sought after by poachers - a ruthless business catering mainly to the wealthy Chinese. Rhinos' poaching is unbelievably sad and heart-breaking - we got to know a local ranger later on during our journey in Kruger who shared with us a lot of stories about the fight in attempts to save Kruger's rhinos...
--Skukuza
Absolutely LOVED our l-o-o-o-n-g drives around this area. I had us on the tough schedule though - we left at sunrise and came back at sunset (I would personally stay even later, but we had to follow the rules to come back with our vehicle before the gate to our camp was closed). We spent so many hours around a fantastic amount and variety of wildlife. A few of my favourite recollections about the area follow below.
One of the mornings when we started our self-drive at sunrise, we crossed paths with a ranger who told us about a leopard near by. Leopard is one of several very elusive animals that is pretty tough to find. As we were heading in that direction, we came across a family of hyenas (probably returning back from their night hunt), and an antelope. Shortly after, high in a tree and quite well camouflaged, there he was - that special leopard. His paws were hanging off the tree brunch, and he was not in a rush to move. Luckily for us, he changed his position, and we made an eye contact.
As we proceeded further along a gravel road in our tiny (but mighty) car, we were passed by a large safari vehicle drastically exceeding speed limits. A driver looked excited, he mumbled somethings to us very quickly and enthusiastically as he was driving away in a fury. A split of a second later - and my Rob, just like Mario Andretti, was racing right behind the safari driver. "Rob - what did that driver said?" Rob's reply - "I have no idea, but that a..hole is driving like hell, so it MUST be something good". And there we were - we also became a..holes driving like hell... On a couple of instances, I could swear, I felt our car was airborne... I don't know how many kilometers exactly we covered or how long, but eventually we saw a group of motionless HUGE safari vehicles gathered ahead of us. And, finally, we saw what the rush was about - right in front of, a LARGE group of lions and cubs were completely blocking the road. And, the lions were not in a rush to move. We enjoyed watching them for a long time before proceeding further (well, actually - backwards, because lions refused to give anybody the right of way)...
Our fun in Skukuza for next several days was not over. Prior to us coming here, in my research about Kruger, I came across something unusual - a gold course... I can't care less about gold courses, but this one was different - it was not your usual green field with uptight players. It apparently was also a home to another group of residents - hippos and impalas. Well, that kind of golf course was on my list to check out. And, YES - it was as true as described. Hippos were all over the large pond, impalas were all over the green manicured field. I will never forget it - splashing hippos in the foreground and golf carts on the on the background...
As we were leaving that "hippo-infested" golf course, we realized we were running a bit late... It was almost the sunset, and the entrance gate to our camp would be closed shortly. As we were on the final stretch of the road, we came to a stall... ANOTHER leopard was walking along the road - TOWARDS us! That one didn't seem that elusive to us. He came so close to our vehicle, he almost brushed against it as he was leisurely continuing his way further. As we proceeded driving towards our camp, we had to stop again shortly - a big elephant blocked the road, so we had to wait - again. Now - THAT is a kind of traffic jam I love! And yes - we were a bit late for the gate closing, but the local authorities do accept "an-elephant-blocked-my-way" excuses around here, so they just gave us a mild scolding for being a bit late this time...
--Lower Sabie
Another of my favourite areas of Kruger! Hippos, crocodiles, zebras, giraffes, elephants, lions, warthogs, wildebeests, rare birds and mischievous macaques - how could you wrong with such an exciting company?
Camping all over the park and driving from sunrise to sunset really exposed us to many animals and their habits. And, there is one animal in particular that we consistently find really endearing - giraffe. Their gentle nature, beauty and elegance just have stolen our hearts. On one of our rides, we got stuck in a rain storm. The relief from the heat was probably quite a welcome respite for many Kruger's residents - they came out in dozens, all mixed up together in large groups - giraffes, zebras, impalas, wildebeests, etc. We pulled over in one of the spots, and shortly after, our car was surrounded by large herds of animals. In our side mirrors we could see a long processions of giraffes, appearing from a jungle of trees like stately statues - bigger than life... At one point we looked above us, and there were two large tall giraffes marching right next to us - they were so close, it would have been possible to stretch our arm and touch them. The roof top of our car was lower than their bellies - against their magnificent size, we were like a chihuahua against a Great Dane. And, yet their soft gentle walk, and the way they look straight into your eyes with their big beautiful eyes and long eyelashes - it makes you feel so serene, and you just can't help but fall in love with them right from a start! As I am writing this blog months later, I still clearly remember their big adorable eyes looking right at me and their undeniably gentle disposition that we were so fortunate to experience...
--Pretoriuskop
...was our least favourite area. We had a perfectly comfortable campsite (and facilities), but the amount and variety of wildlife in the area was just not that exciting (a few pictures below were done during further drives out in that area). As a matter of fact - the closest proximity to Pretoriuskop had none - except for the fact that our camping area was surrounded by scorpions. That became clear after Rob joined for a walk the camp ranger who was making his casual night rounds with a special torch light in his hands. As he shined it on the ground, scorpions became very obvious. Needless to say - as soon as we returned back home from our trip, Rob immediately ordered a special scorpion-light to take with us on the next trip. So, the Pretoriuskop camping was not a complete waste of time and did provide us with a practical knowledge. Oh, and yes - I did find a baby cottonmouth snake while we were walking (along a sealed path) at night through the campground. No wonder, mongoose look pretty healthy and well-fed around Kruger...
Central Kruger
Areas explored: Satara, Maroela, Balule, Olifants, Orpen
--Satara
This area has always been known as a Big Cat territory. We were exploring it during African Spring though - which meant taller grass and a lot more challenging to see. On the other hand, Spring also meant a lot of young animals around - allowing predators an access for weaker targets. We did dedicate a good amount of our time and patience covering various routes, and were rewarded with quite a few interesting sightings.
Among the bigger predators - besides lions, we crossed our path with a family of cheetahs - four of them at once! We also had another excellent sighting of four rhinos, and by now we stopped counting hippos, buffaloes, zebras, giraffes, and elephants. Speaking of the latter - lately we have been having a lot of them sharing the roadway with us, and they seem to be getting bigger and bigger... Rob has gotten quite proficient driving backwards - some elephants insist of walking a straight line, and when it is a narrow road and there is nowhere to turn - you learn how to drive backwards for a while. In our opinion - the right of way belongs to the animals and we are the guests there...
There is also an amazing variety of bird-life around here. Some images are almost whimsical. Every day there is a surprise appearance or something unexpected - having a flexibility of time, patience and perseverance are huge factors as well.
Speaking of surprises - we had one in Satara... After leaving our camp for a long drive at sunrise, upon return we discovered that our tent was damaged. Apparently, they were trimming the grass around our camp, and a sharp rock cut our tent fly. To make us feel better, a camp manager offered us a complimentary over-night stay at one of their (over-priced) fully-equipped AC bungalows - the only non-tent accommodation we experienced in Kruger (ALL our nights there were spent in our tent under opened skies - by choice). The bungalow was comfortable, but felt isolating - instead of hyenas or lions at night, we could hear a sound of AC. We did appreciate a refrigerator though - it was a real treat to drink COLD juice and actually enjoy a couple of cubes of ice with out Amarula. But, honestly - camping was really a part of adventure, and we had a comfortable home waiting for us after the trip. For the complete disclosure though - a grassy patch, and not rocks or thorns under our tent could have made our camping more enjoyable.
--Maroela
One of three more primitive camps (I have chosen for us) in Kruger, without electricity at night - just the kerosene lamp in the ablution block and nightly stars above us. We picked our campsite on the corner for an exposed view of the area. Hyena was patrolling the fence at night which we have grown used to. We continued our leave-at-sunrise-come-back-at-sunset schedule, and explored more routes and gravel roads in the area in our little brave car.
On a number of occasions we encountered one individual elephant with a very specific feature - he had a clearly visible hole in one of his ears. After further inquiries, it was agreed that it was likely a trace of the bullet that poachers may have left him with as their souvenir... I don't have the details, but have an idea what trauma this poor elephant may have gone through - if he witnessed the cruel act of his elephant family members to be eradicated, or he himself was a victim of crime and survived the bullet... I do remember, however, that he always walked alone, and his eyes were very sad... In the moments like that, it makes me ashamed to be associated with humans, and what we are capable of because of our insatiable greed...
--Balule
Every day brings up something special and unexpected. I couldn't seem to get enough of it. Even though our schedules have been packed and we have been covering hundreds of kilometers driving all possible routes in Kruger, there is always an up-close encounter with wild-life and nature.
We have grown used to by now to be sharing roads on a normal basis with elephants, giraffes, zebras, impalas, wildebeests (at times - all at once); and yet - it is always endearing and magical to be there, and at least for that moment live in the fairy-tale.
The unusual encounters didn't stop at sunset. Last night, for example, the roaring of lions and stomping of elephants continued for most of the night. I was feeling a bit grouchy the next morning - due to the disturbed and interrupted sleep (or a lack of sleep to be more precise), but on the other hand - how often do we have a chance to be mad at lions and elephants instead of our normal neighbours?
Northern Kruger
Areas explored: Letaba, Tzendze, Mopani, Shingwedze
--Letaba
Letaba and the area surrounding it was very special. We also enjoyed a peaceful and spacious campsite covered by thick canopy of trees with bush babies climbing around the brunches - very exotic setting indeed.
But, Letaba area of Kruger became so memorable was for the reasons one might not expect. I have chosen to completely dedicate this entry to three main plot heroes - hyenas, elephants, and Rob. Not in order of importance (of course), but due to the logical course of events. Below is a synopsis of what had happened...
A.M. - Hyenas
What was supposed to be a "normal" sunrise drive had an unusual encounter. While driving in the area, we noticed a commotion alongside the road. We pulled over to check it out and realized we came across a den with a large family of hyenas. Not a big deal, we thought, and we paused for a while to enjoy them. Hyenas, actually, were absolutely phenomenal as parents - the interactions of adult members with young pups were incredible. The young hyenas were also super cute - they were playing and chasing each other, chewing on sticks, and doing all kind of cute puppy-like things. Then, we realized it had gotten a kind of quiet, and we could no longer see the young hyenas in a plain sight... Where were they? Then, Rob and I realized that a bunch of them got under our vehicle, and we began hearing chewing noises. What do we do, and most importantly - what are they chewing on?! Hyenas' teeth are pretty sharp (we saw them!), and a lot of hyenas meant a lot of sharp teeth... "I hope the hyenas are not chewing away our breaks...", I quietly said to Rob. Try explaining THAT to the car rental company. We realized there were a bunch of other cars gathered on the road, and people were probably having a good time videoing what was happening. So, enough of chewing we thought, and Rob gently began moving back and forth the manual gear swifter. That was a smart move on Rob's part - hyenas got startled without getting hurt, and a stream of them began running from under our car. We still don't know the extent of their "fun chewing", but it didn't seem like any damage was done, and the car operated totally normal. That was a good thing, because we needed it for the next event described below.
A.M. and P.M. - Elephants
We proceeded driving and exploring area further, and took a gravel (but well established) route following a river. We saw something moving on the opposite bank of the wide river; and that "something" was becoming bigger and bigger and bigger... A red cloud of dust, like a storm in a desert, was also taking a larger size. And then we saw them - group after group after group of elephants marching down towards the river, 20-25 elephant members at a time. A rough conservative estimate - there were about 125 of them. Surely, they are not planning to cross the river and come onto our side? Think again... They were crossing over onto our side. I thought to myself - the shores are pretty steep, and surely it will take them some time to cross over where we were! Think again... Apparently, they are fast walkers (and climbers)... Elephants began crossing in front of us AND behind us in BIG numbers, AND they had lots young babies with them... We had three choices - take chances and move forward (too late), start moving backwards (oops, also too late), stay still and wait (really?), or move forward-backwards and stay still - depending how close the elephants were crossing, and what kind of mood individual groups were in. And, this is EXACTLY what we did - TWO times that day actually, because (later that afternoon) on the way back those lovely 125 creatures decided to return back home to the other side of the river, and SO DID WE - we also had to take the same road back to return to our "home" - our campground...
A.M.and P.M. and days prior - The Hero of the Day award goes to... Rob!
Rob has become the most masterful driver of all times around elephants. We have been on opened roads for a while now... It is nature, and it is impossible to predict at all times where the animals might appear and when... For past two months (both in Namibia and South Africa) we had a number of REALLY close encounters with single male elephants, with mother-elephants, with baby-elephants, with mothers-and-babies-elephants, with small groups of elephants, with large groups of elephants. Rob had to drive in sand, gravel, up the hill, down the hill, forward, backwards, and always with the utmost respect to those giants. He still remains the most patient companion and humble person you can imagine. I guess, great people don't need to be vocal about their greatness. And, this is one of MANY reasons I call him MIGHTY ROB.
--Tzendze
Another excellent primitive peaceful camp located in Northern Kruger. A local caretaker was a lovely lady and showed my several trees with resident owls. There were some nice routes around the area, and Rob and I set off driving to explore this part of Kruger further.
We did encounter yet another LARGE family of lions. These lions looked a bit older, and you could see some scars on their faces - probably the result of prior hunting battles. They were resting close to the road and in the open, but well camouflaged in the sun-bleached grass. We were fortunate to find them and enjoyed watching their interaction for a while at a close distance. It was definitely a pleasant highlight of our daily drive.
--Shingwedze
We reached our out-most Northern turn-around point prior to heading back South... And, Shingwedze did not disappoint - so glad I chose to bring us here! First of all, most visitors don't go that far North, and the area is not as popular as Skukuza per say. It worked totally for our benefit - there were rarely any safari vehicles, and the place seemed so pristine and peaceful.
Despite a "popular" opinion that Northern Kruger is not known for abundance of wildlife, we had a number of major sightings around this area. First of all - another elusive leopard sighting, and at a relatively close proximity. Secondly - another fantastic viewing (and also at a close proximity) of four cheetahs. Thirdly - the largest elephants (with biggest tusks) were quite frequent. Another unique feature about this isolated area was that the animals we had already seen in other parts of Kruger were appearing here in really LARGE groups - large hordes of buffaloes (that everyone is longing to see down South) were frequently and casually crossing their paths with us here. Large herds of wildebeests, zebras, and elephants seemed like a common thing for us as well. I kept thinking about our chat with a local South African gentleman a couple of weeks prior - he told us that if we ever would make it up North, everything would become bigger and in bigger numbers. He was so right! And why not - the areas here up North were so vast and perfectly fitted for animals to roam around.
Having an unlimited access pass to Kruger also meant we could utilize any picnic stop-overs and/or facilities of other satellite camps. And, believe us when we say - swimming pools after excruciating heat and a long day of driving was a cherished respite. Kitchens were also available to use pretty much at any campground we stayed at. And, another bonus - wild growing Marula trees were in full harvest and we could pick up as many berries as we wanted to enjoy.
I will always have fond memories of the Shingwedze region...
Kruger - Return Finale
Well, we have completed our exploration of Kruger National Park. Prior 21 days were nothing short of a spectacular fairy-tale living. Unbelievable encounters with wild-life were worth every effort, planning, research, and commitment. I am so glad we did it independently! We spent countless hours with lions, cheetahs, leopards, elephants, rhinos, buffaloes, hippos, giraffes, zebras, hyenas, macaques, mongoose, impalas, kudus - just to name a few. Meeting every sunrise and sunset with the wildlife was special and worth every minute of the journey.
I feel so unbelievably fortunate to be able to experience and live every minute of it. The countless hours of research and planning definitely paid off BIG.
As we were heading back to our exit point at Kruger, we had yet another chance to say good-bye to the amazing wildlife - large groups of animals that we had so grown accustomed to see on a daily basis were meeting us on our road back. It was almost as if they were bidding their final good-bye... I am writing this blog several months later and yet I clearly and visibly see the images of the magnificent animals we were so lucky to see and spend our time with.
We also have to remember - great power comes with great responsibility. The wildlife of Kruger, though protected at the moment, is vulnerable. Every day, innocent animals are slaughtered and poached. Please do NOT contribute to this slaughter - you know better!
To be continued - Qatar and Morocco are next...
posted by Rob and Anna @ 1:02 PM
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