Thursday, July 12, 2007

Brugge, Belgium

Anna's entry:

I wrote in an earlier part of blog that when we camped in Maubeauge, France we met Hilde who invited us to stay with her if we make it to Brugge. Well, we made it to Brugge today, and got in touch with her. Hilde invited us to stay as long as we want and offered us a wonderful heartfelt hospitality. Hilde lived right in the center of Brugge, and we could here horse drawn carriages on the medieval cobble stone streets right under our windows. I wrote earlier that I am in Love with Paris, well, I am also strongly infatuated with Brugge! What a beautiful romantic city, I had no idea how gorgeous it is. This is the city made for love stories, with a beautiful end. One morning we got up early, and took a stroll when just a few people were around. There was something special and inspiring about the city. The reflections of medieval buildings in canals, arched bridges, fortresses, cobble stone streets, flute player on the square in the dusk hours, secluded parks with ducklings and swans. It felt mysterious and magical. Very pretty city, a photographer's paradise...
















Famous Kriek cherry beer




Our host Hilde





Brussels to Brugge, Belgium

Anna's entry:

Cycling is a lot easier here - a lot more cycling paths, it is definitely becoming more Dutch, though Belgian people could be offended by such comparison. After the war in the 1830' and up to now there seem to be some sensitivity between the Dutch and the Belgians, as there is one between French speaking and Flemish speaking. We have heard several people making a few comments about those issues. That might have been a reason for one of the unpleasant interactions we had when Rob attempted to ask for directions in Dutch, but he received a reply that only Flemish would be spoken. Later on we got a possible explanation - it was possible that Rob spoke with the Dutch accent (Rob picked up some Dutch when he lived in Amsterdam). Over all, however, Belgians were friendly, and on more than one occasion volunteered to assist. We cycled a couple of days from Brussels to Brugge via Ghent, and both days it was raining, I think I am getting used to it, even though I seem to be catching a little cold, I want to push on.



Cycling along the canal


Our touring bikes


We have fuel for our stove and hot food now...


...and Belgian waffles!



Resting break to check the map


Traditional Flemish costume

Brussels, Belgium

Anna's entry:

We crossed the French-Belgian border, it was raining again... It was raining every single day for the past several weeks. We were cold, but wanted to keep paddling. The border was easy to cross, but the the weather sucked. We would be cycling for a couple of days before we reach Brussels.

We noticed two things after leaving France - people spoke more English, and Belgium seemed more poor. People however were helpful, especially close to the border. Sometimes, we would stop to get a little rest, and someone would stop and ask if we were OK, or if we needed some water, or any help. That was nice. We passed through Nivelles, from where we took a bike path along the canal, all the way to Brussels. That was my record biking day - over 70 km (we usually do about 50-60 km in hilly countries) - this is an easy distance for Rob who is an experienced biker (and who had already cycled Europe twice), but for me, with absolutely no experience, it was a good day. In addition, that day I started biking with an acute pain in my neck, but I was determined to make it to Brussels that day, so we pushed on. We made it to Brussels around 7 p.m., and it took as another two hours to figure out our way in the city - lots of busy roads and hills, and some rude drivers (nothing like Parisian drivers). But our efforts were rewarded. We arranged a stay with a local family of Benoit and Marie (and their cute 3-year old daughter Luna), and it turned out to be one of our best experiences. Initially, we were planning to spend only two days in Brussels, but after meeting Benoit and Marie we ended up staying five days. They were the most caring, sweet, and easy going people we've met. They also love traveling, and several years ago, and took a one year trip to Africa. Benoit and Marie - if you are reading this blog, thank you so much again for treating us like your own family, you are one of the kindest and most interesting people we've met - we hope to see you some day again!!! We stayed several nights past midnight talking away, sharing our travel stories, having great food and wine, meeting their friends; one of such meetings turned into taking us to the famous Belgian "caves" in Han-Sur-Lesse. The caves were discovered a couple of centuries ago, but existed from the early primitive time. The caves are descending about 46 meters below, and there are beautiful limestone formations and rivers flowing through the underground. It felt almost surreal - series of caves dripping with stalactites and stalagmites. We walked for about an hour through the caves, and then took a small boat from the underground on the river that flows to the surface. That was cool! We went with Benoit's and Marie's friend Virginia, who used to be a tour guide in those caves years ago, and since we were her friends, we got a red carpet treatment. Later that day we returned back to Brussels, and made a semi-Mexican dinner - chicken tahitas. Mary and Benoit also traveled to Latin America, so we decided to come up with some travel theme for supper. That was our version of 4th of July - the Brussel's way. :) After spending another great evening with the family, we prepared to continue our cycling.
Brussels, EU Capital


Popular hang-out square


Beautiful Brussels' architecture


City landscape


Old market streets in early evening

Part III - Cycling Belgium






Labels:

Cycling Northern France

Anna's entry:

We left Conflans/Versailles after a great visit with a wonderful local family of Annie-Claude and Jean-Loius, and began paddling North, towards French/Belgian border. We would spend several days cycling, and as it turned out, all of them would turn out rainy... We made a stop in Osser-Ville, the last place of life of Vincent Van Gogh, which also turned out his last inspirational place. We passed by the house he lived at the end of his life, there were numerous copies of his paintings posted right on the walls of the streets next to the objects he depicted in his work. It was very moving to be standing right in front of Van Gogh's objects of art creations - the medieval church, red roofs of the houses, golden rye fields with ravens cycling over the fields - they all are still there... We also went to an old town cemetery where Vincent and his brother were buried, shortly one after another.

Yet another time Rob and I wondered - if we were not cycling, would we have ever run into great hidden treasures like this village? I am definitely regaining yet again appreciation of cycling through Europe instead of exploring it by train/air/bus/car. When cycling, we are passing through so many fascinating places that we would have never imagined visiting otherwise, and noticing so many more details. We speak and interact with complete strangers and sometimes even become friends, people open up so much more to us, and all our senses seem to be alive - we notice so much more all intense colors of French hills, forests, fields, valleys, sky; smells of wild mint, roses, daisies, jasmine; sounds of birds, cows, horses, dogs, and old French tunes somewhere in a distance... And, of course, the palette! I have to write a few lines about the food! Once camping, we noticed a local farmer having a bottle of red wine with his home made pasta, so we decided to adopt the tradition. France is the country to try all kinds of red wine and cheeses, and I am loving it! Almost all our dinners now include a glass (or two for me) of red wine. Even Rob, who usually doesn't care too much for wine, is having it for health benefits as he puts it. The best part is that French wine is so cheap. As an example, a bottle of Bordeaux produced by a local chateau was about $1.50 - and there are many other types of a similar value. So, now wine-and-cheese has become a nice addition to our menu. We are traveling with two small cook stoves, and Rob had a great idea to travel with spices, so our meals are getting better and better. We have even cooked up a semi-Indian meal, which was delicious. I think local people traveling in caravans (v.s. bike/tent) are surprised with our creativity, and how much we can do with a tiny camping stove.

Our last camping stop before heading to Belgium was in Maubeauge, I called it "the Hilton of camping" - it had beautiful tiled spotless sparkling showers with hairdryers, free internet, and other amenities. When I commented to a fellow camper how impressed I was, she told me that I had seen nothing yet. Apparently, Europeans are taking camping very seriously, some camping sites come with swimming pools, tennis courts, etc. and some are even rated by a certain number of stars to compete for attention. Anyway, for me, a tired biker, most of it doesn't make a difference, but from a cultural point of view, it is entertaining. The best part about camping in Maubeauge was meeting Hilde, a Belgian lady, who also had been traveling by bicycle. Hilde was from Brugge, and she invited us to stay with her if we would ever end up biking there. We were touched by her invitation, and we would definitely try to reach her beautiful city on this trip.


Orsay-Ville, the place where Van Gogh spent last months of his life, he actually painted this medieval church.

The actual painting of the church above


Vincent's resting place



Beautiful French country side


Snack time in French forest


Touring bike and "accessories"


Market day in Maubeauge


Sharing the road, French drivers are very patient

Tuesday, July 03, 2007

La Havre - Versailles, Paris, France

Le Havre to Versailes, France

La Havre, the landing point to France started easy, but finished a little different. As soon as we got off the ferry with our bikes, we went right into cycling paths that were plentiful in town. After England, it was refreshing. We followed directions to get on the other side of the harbor, but eventually ran out of the cycling route, and motorways were our only option. We decided to stay away from them with our bikes, and went north. We ended up going up... and up... and up... and up... the hills, through small French villages, but it took us further... and further... and further... from where we needed to be. All the signs were pointing out to the motorways, which we tried to avoid with our bicycles for safety reasons. People did not mind helping, but...they could not speak a word in English. We offered to speak Spanish, Russian, German or English, but it didn't help then. So, after five hours of cycling in circles up in the French hills, and to make up some time (to make sure we would not be late for our visit to a local French family in Versailles), we decided to put our bikes on a local train and get off in Roun - the place of Joan of Arc. We got to Roun in the early evening. The town was very pretty, but the traffic was plentiful, and it was challenging to navigate our touring bikes loaded with camping equipment among busy streets. I must say that the French drivers were very patient. Not a single time they beeped at us, and instead they were patiently waiting for us to pass, or take the bikes over the curb. Nevertheless, the long day took a toll on me, and after the 30th time of taking my bike over the curb and the 30th bruise/chain scratch on my legs, I suddenly felt overwhelmed. So, there I was bursting into tears in the middle of the street with patient French drivers parked behind me waiting for me to take my bike over the curb yet another time. That was my first time on the trip wondering what the heck I was doing thinking that I could conquer Europe on a bike? Rob rushed to comfort me and we stood there a good half an hour until I felt I was ready to move on. It was getting late, and we still had to find the camping somewhere up those French hills. We started cycling up the hill, and spotted a couple of people entering the house. We did not have a hope they would speak English, but we still decided to attempt to ask for directions to a camping. It turned out that a guy spoke great English, he told us to wait for a moment while he rushed to the house to check camping options on the internet. His wife could not converse in English as fluently, but through gestures she invited us, absolute strangers, to their home where she treated us to cold juice and local treats. We found out that they were originally from Romania and moved to France a few years ago as practicing physicians. They asked us if we could stay for a little longer - they wanted to know about our trip which they referred as "extreme sport". We ended up staying for several hours talking about our lives in the US, our dreams, goals, problems, politics, and the life of the French people. That evening healed all my pain and tears from before. And, at that moment I remembered why I decided to undertake my cycling adventure, I knew I would have to deal with more challenges, but I also knew that it was all worthwhile, and I was ready to do that. We cycled off that evening knowing that we were not alone, and that sometimes meeting an absolute stranger could turn even the most challenging French hills into pleasant memories.

The next morning we began paddling towards Versailles. We had a long way to go, several days to get there, more hills to conquer and more memories to create. I will never forget the moment when after climbing a long hill I finally made it to the other side, and all of the sudden the forest stopped and we ended up in a French village as if taken directly from a fairly tale. If you read French fairytales as a child by Jean-Jack Perrot, you know what I am describing. Cute chateaus with towers and elaborate decorations, rose gardens, and somewhere up in the hills, on the cliffs, the silhouette of a fortress - this one was the Chateau Gallard, that used to belong to the infamous cardinal de Bourbon. Remember the book Three Musketeers, and a reference to the cardinal de Bourbon? That's the one! Our camping site was in a valley, right under the fortress. Every time we would come out of the tent, it would be right in front of us. I had so many memories pouring in my head from all the French books and novels I read long time ago. I did not want to leave this beautiful spot, but we had a lot more ahead of us. We found out from an English couple who were also camping about a place called Giverney. That was a town where a great impressionist Monet lived, died, and created his art. We cycled to Giverney and visited Monet's grave, gardens and a medieval church. I lit a candle there in a memory of my mom and grandma. And then we took off...

We passed through so many villages, valleys, it is so beautiful here, and my heart feels so free... I now understand why impressionism started here in France. The colors are so vivid and so intense, sometimes they almost look surreal. There could be no other way to portrait this beauty than by using brush strokes as the impressionists did. Sometimes I feel as if I myself were a little dot on an impressionist canvas. I am developing a strong appreciation of the French country side beauty, and peace that surrounds it.

The great impressionist route


The village of Claude Monet


Biking break


The place of Claude Monet


Streets of Giverny



Versailles, France

Anna's entry:

Versailles, 21 km southwest from Paris, is home to France's grandest and most famous chateau. It was the kingdom's political capital and royal court for more than a century, from 1682 to 1789 - the year Revolutionary mobs massacred the palace guard and dragged Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinnette to Paris where they eventually had their heads lopped off...

Being from St. Petersburg, Russia I was very curious to visit Versailles. The reasonbeing is because our tsar Peter the Great sent his architects to Versailles in the 18th century with a goal to build the second Versailles for his residence, he called it Peterhoff. Indeed, I noticed alsmost identical plans and designs between Peterhoff and Versailles. In my opinion the castle in Versailles is grander than the one in Peterhoff, however, the gardens and fountains in Peterhoff are definitely more impressive. An interesting parallel between both Louis XVI and Peter the Great is that the wives of each also built their own residences next to their spouses' castles to have their own privacy and get away from their spouses and all that royal pretentious nonsense.

We spent the whole day in Versailles - walked several hours around the Chateau de Versailles (Grand Palace), Grand and Petit Trianon (the residence of Marie-Antoinnette), and of course the royal gardens.

I enjoyed Versailles, but what will stay in my memory forever is our stay with a wonderful local French family Annie-Claude and her spouse Jean-Loius in Conflans. They made us feel as their own family, and took care of us as if we have known each other for years. We spent hours talking about pretty much everything - our lives, families, politics, environment, government, war and peace; we drank wine, sampled all kind of cheeses, and learnt that the ''aperetive" (a drink before dinner and a good talk) is the sacred hour of the day. :)

Annie-Claude and Jean-Louis - if you are reading this blog, please know that you touched our hearts forever, you are the reason we will remember the Versailles, and we look forward to seeing you some day again!


Versailles, France


Grand Palace of Versailles


Rob's photoshoot


Grand Palace, Hall of Mirrors


Versailles' Park


Fountains of Versailles


Self explanatory


Place of solitude of Marie-Antoinette


Domain of Marie-Antoinette


Conflans, suburb of Versailles


Conflans, home town of our friends




Paris, France

Anna's entry:

I must admit I am in love...with Paris, the city - not the celebrity. Before arrival somehow I had a misconception that Parisians are arrogant and even snotty. None of it turned out to be true. I felt very comfortable in Paris, people were polite and helpful, nobody expected me to speak French (except one person maybe), and more often we would get apologies from Parisians that they could not speak English. Paris definitely felt a lot more comfortable for me than London, I think the main reason is its people and their laid-back attitude. My impression of Paris it is one of the most beautiful and sophisticated cities I have ever visited, and I have a feeling I would be returning there again.

There is something to do here for everyone, you could just walk around the city for hours without a map, and you will always be amazed with the city's beauty and history. There is so much to see here! I spent the entire day in the Louvre - being critical about museums, I must say this is THE museum to dream about. The mischievous Mona Lisa of course is here, however, for me other works by Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael, Botticelli, Delacroix, and my favorite - glorious collection of Greek and Roman sculpture.

Of course, walking all over the city, we went to the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe & Champs-Elysees, Cathedrale de Notre Dame, Luxembourg Gardens, Jardin de Tuileries (Unesco site), bohemian Monmarte, Moulin Rouge, Basilique du Sacre Coeur (the highest point to see the panorama of the city), the list is endless. For me, a very special visit was to the Cemetery du Pere Lachaise, where a lot of great people were buried. One of them is Oscar Wilde - most favorite writer whose quotes I kept for a long time in my personal books, that I referred to in the hard moments of my life. Unfortunately, his grave is apparently "loved too much", because there were lots of traces of lipstick kisses all over his memorial. I am not sure if this is who Oscar Wilde would have wanted to be honored, so on my end it was just a small bouquet of pink flowers put on his memorial pedestal. We also visited the graves of Edith Piaf, Chopin, and Jim Morrison.

In addition, my fond memories about Paris were formed by our stay with several French families. We loved staying with Danielle, the most caring and positive person I've ever visited; Marie-Odille and her daughter Lucille, whose company we truly enjoyed; and Coralie, who spent her entire evening preparing and treating us to the traditional French delicacy - the rabbit in a wine sauce. We were very fortunate to stay our entire time in Paris with local families, and this is probably the main reason why I absolutely adored Paris.

After Paris we headed out back to Conflans/Versailles to our favourite family of Annie-Claude and Jean-Loius (who I fondly wrote about in the Versailles entry), where we spent another great evening with a family, and then the next morning we cycled off to the North off France.


Beautiful Paris


Notre Dame


View from Louvre window


Triumphal Arch

Pantheon


The magnificent Louvre


from Classical


to Modernism


The Moulin Rouge


In Luxemburg Gardens


Park in front of Eifel Tower


Eifel Tower, the symbol of Paris