Rob predicted correctly... As soon as Rob left India (he had to go back to New York to take care of some business at home), and I ended up on my own, I got in all kind of adventures. It is a long description, but I thought you may find it entertaining when you have a few minutes. I also must add that in addition to the New Year, our Christmas was even more unusual (I wrote about it after New Year's adventures below).
New Year Adventure #1, "the wedding crashers":
At lunch I met a traveler from Germany, and we decided to go to the ancient cave temples on the Elephanta Island. This is an island with ancient cave temples carved around 5th century AD. When we got back to Mumbai, we decided to take a bus around, and ended up in a Muslim part of town. Huge temple on a semi-island, and absolutely gorgeous sunset. Getting back to our part of town was a challenge, Indian buses are over-crowded, people jump on and off the bus when it is in motion, but we managed it... After dinner (in a crazy fast paced restaurant where every waiter seems to be running non-stop), and chai, we headed out to the waterfront (where our hotel is located). On the way there we noticed a huge, grand, posh wedding reception on the pier. They seemed to have rented the whole thing - big white canopy, red carpet, flowers everywhere, candles, women are dressed in the shiniest clothing and jewelry you can imagine. We stopped near by and were watching from a distance. A man came out in a traditional white formal attire, and asked me if I would like to have a look closer. I shyly said I would, and we were invited in. Soon after food and drinks appeared, we got introduced to the most important members of the family, and minute by minute we got closer and closer to the bride and groom. I thanked everyone, and explained that we probably should leave because we may be offending the party with our attire (we were dressed in dusty khakis, t-shirt, and had a well used back pack after five weeks on traveling in India). The family said absolutely not, they wanted us to stay, and since I was worried about my attire, they had a solution. They told me to go behind the stage, and soon after a woman appeared with a brand new fabric for sari (Indian dress). In an instant, they began wrapping around the sari around my body, I tried to protest (they were paying too much attention to me, a complete stranger), but they insisted they were happy to do that. So, I ended up wrapped up in a brand new sari, then taken to the stage to have photos taken with the bride and groom, photographers began running to the stage, etc. Long story short - I ended up to be "the honorary daughter" of the family, and the family insisted I should keep my sari as a memory about their family... Wow... I still don't know what happened, but I can tell you one thing - I will never forget this! Me, a complete stranger, was welcomed with such a hospitality and sincerity, how could one forget this?
Adventure #2 "hotel crushers and procession with drums"
I met an Indian elderly lady at a local Indian restaurant - Ann Edwani - a few days ago. I bugged her with questions about Indian food (as you know I do that some time, especially when that concerns food), and we ended up exchanging our names and addresses in Mumbai. Several days later, I saw her again at the same restaurant, and she asked me if I had any plans for the New Year's Eve. I said not really, so she invited me to spend an evening together. We met in the evening, she took me out for chai (the real thing), showed me good and cheap places to buy groceries (a real grocery store is here!), showed me what biscuits to buy, mango juice, etc. And, she went to the restaurant and ordered inexpensive veg cutlets (only 18rs, 50 cents) for a take-out! She insisted that way I would have food for the night, and wouldn't have to wander around with all those guys around and numerous crowds. Also, Ann Adwani turned out to be a queen of cheap, and knows all the deals around. She said she knew just the place with a Christmas tree, but we would have to pretend to be the guests (already sounds like my kind of a gal). So, we went down to the Taj Mahal hotel, the one for "members only", where a small cup of coffee costs about $10 (still pretending we are guests there). :) Apparently, she goes there occasionally (as a pretending guest), so she knows the drill. We sat down in comfortable sofas at the beautiful Christmas tree next to a wall water fall, flowers, and candles. We spent some time conversing about politics and life, and had a little escape away from the real India - with pollution, cars, cows, etc. Ann is very well versed in politics, and seems like a cool elderly lady. We parted later that evening, and began heading out to my hotel.
Our hotel is located on the waterfront, and it is a very popular place for local strolls. At one point the street filled up with a crazy noise, I rushed to check it out. A group of young guys came with a dozen of drums, and they were playing a mix of classical Indian and house techno music (anything is possible in India). They were followed by a procession of hundreds of guys, they all were dancing under the deafening noise of drum players. Also, in the middle of procession there was a kind of a wheel barrel, or a cart or something like that, with a huge blown up figure of a pirate (what does a pirate have to do with the New Year??). The blown up doll was supported by two local guys who tried to balance on that cart without falling down. I had to take a photo of that, so I joined the procession, under the deafening noise I managed to shoot a short video. I was the only girl in the crowd, but luckily this time no one grabbed my butt (yes, it has happened to me more than once in India, which is another story). At some point the procession disappeared, and I went back to my hotel. As soon as I reached my room, more noise began blasting in the windows. This time fireworks began exploding randomly. I watched them exploding over the city skyline, and I realized it is finally here, The New 2008 has begun!!!
Anna, the wedding crasher/dirty backpacker.
With the family, before the sari
Sari is on, time to meet bride and groom
With bride and groom
Family's approval of Anna's in a sari
The streets of Mumbai, British influence is apparent
Flora Fountain, the roman goddess of prosperity
Victoria Terminus (CST) - the biggest train station in Asia
Varanasi has been the most colorful city in India so far. The city is one of the holiest places in India, where Hindu pilgrims come to wash away a lifetime of sins in the Gange river, or to cremate their loved ones. The life (and death) in Varanasi revolves around the ghats - the long string of bathing steps leading down to the western bank of the Gange. There are several "burning ghats" where bodies are cremated in public. We stayed in a local hotel right next to the Manikarnika ghat - the main burning ghat, and the most "prestigious" place for for a Hindu to be cremated. Dead bodies are handled by outcasts known as doms, and they are carried through the narrow alleyways of the old city to the river on a bamboo stretcher swathed in cloth. The corpse is doused in the Gange river prior to cremation. High piles of firewood are stacked under and over the body, and then the fire is started all over the wood. We have seen numerous fires set up all over the ghat, and it seems like the bodies are cremated 24 hours a day. We watched the whole process, and it is quite an experience. We were told that about 200-300 bodies are cremated per day, and there are only several categories that are forbidden to go through this procedure. The following people can not be given a "privilege" of being cremated at the river - pregnant women, children under the age of 10, sacred people, Seek people, and people who died from a bite of cobra... As you can see there is a whole philosophy here! The most striking experience was the following, which will undoubtedly stay in our memories as the most colorful Christmas. We went to the Manikarnika ghat to watch that honorable cremation under the open sky. A dozen of fires have already been set up, the flames were huge on the background of the ancient maharajah (king) palaces. But this is what struck more the most - right next to the fires (over the bodies covered by wood), there was a happy looking young boy, casually flying his kite. He was sitting on top of the wood (which will be used for another cremation soon), with a big smile, and his entire attention was on his kite, that was fling in the sky right over all these flames! Next to a finished fire, on pile of the ashes, a dog was peacefully sleeping, obviously taking advantage of the warmth of the ashes. Then, right next to a cremated body, a group of guys were standing (only men relatives are allowed, no women), and they were casually having a conversation, one of them on a cell phone. Right next to a body prepared to be put in flames, all like a matter of fact! Then, goats appeared, and began jumping up and down the stairs, and eating all these flowers left after the funeral. Then a huge cow with a calve showed up, and laid down in the middle of the street. And, I could just go on and on with other descriptions. It just felt like a Fellini movie (the Italian film director, who was known for his symbolism and surreal interpretations). Anyway, how was your Christmas? :)
In addition to the elaborate fire-cremation procession, we took a boat ride along the majestic waterfront of the city. We could see the lotus candles floating along the river, the full moon reflecting in the river water, and it was so peaceful! When we came back to our hotel, a management prepared a little surprise for all of us, foreigners. They decorated the entire terrace with Christmas decorations,. had lots of munchies laying around, and made a three-level cake (looked like a big wedding cake). They also brought local kids who brought us candies in their Santa Claus bag, and then a group of drummer musicians. They thought the louder they would play, the more we would appreciate it, so we almost lost our hearing ability after an hour of this! But it was very well meant, so we greatly appreciated it! The next morning, monkeys were intrigued by all these glistening decorations, and they kept climbing to the terrace. One of them tried to steal the glitter. Speaking about monkeys, they are a casual business here. When we eat at a restaurant (a balcony-terrace), quite a few of them show up, and start climbing all over the balcony railings. Also, we just had a private show the other day, in our own room. We stayed on the third floor (it felt more like the seventh floor, because the ceiling here is very high). We had two windows in our room, and one window in a bathroom. The monkeys were having a drama among each other, and they began jumping on our building, and our windows. Luckily, the windows had bars, so they couldn't get into the room, otherwise I am sure they would. In addition, when I was in a bathroom, a male monkey jumped into the window, and was hanging on bars, with all his private areas exposed in the window. I think he intended it that way, I called him a "flashing monkey", and told him he should be more modest next time. :)
Another thing that we did for Christmas Eve was watching a very elaborate religious procession on one of the Varanasi ghats. Thousands of people flee here for this! An elaborate ceremony included dance with fire, puja (offerings) of flowers and milk thrown into the Gange river, and it lasted for several hours. It all seemed so surreal and yet real, I could still see in my mind all these bright colors that the monks were dressed in - bright yellow, gold, red, etc. Also, the bells were ringing everywhere, and the drums were playing non-stop a classical Indian melody...
Manikarnika Ghat, the main cremation ghat
Business as usual at the Ghat...
Sunset boat ride on the Ganges
Ganges in the dusk
Sunrise in Varanasi, morning walk
Morning hours
Breakfast for stray goats, yamm.....
Rob is getting his over-due haircut
On a night boat ride on the Ganges
A day before Christmas we went to Sarnath - the place where Buddha was thought to have his religious discoveries. We walked around the temple and monastery ruins. A group of old Indian ladies (babushkas as I call them in Russian), were actually the main restoring labour force! These small old ladies were just pounding all the bricks, sand, etc. by their small hands! They must have been around 70 years old, and they were doing their work like no one else's business! Also, when we walked around the park, we saw a family of dears, several of them began walking towards us, so we petted them, and gave them a treat - fresh green leaves. They became our Christmas rain deers. :) It is very dry here, so having anything green is a treat! I have actually seen cows eating newspapers more than once! But that will be another entry...
My View - A Ride to Remember [Rob´s India Entry (#5)]
Rob's entry
The other travelers seemed very preoccupied with discussions of Bhutan visa procurement, national parks in Madagascar, how expensive Japan is, etc. All exotic destinations and topics worthy of discussion, but few were appreciating how exotic our current activity was. We were taking a boat ride on the Ganges.
Anna appreciated our experience, as did I. I quickly tuned out the travelers and concentrated at the spectacles before me. There were people washing clothes, bathing, praying, and performing all sorts of rituals. The flames were most noticeable in the darkness. We were passing one of the burning ghats in Varanasi.
My thoughts were absorbed in what such an experience must be like to be directly involved. It was moving for me- a mere spectator in the drama of life- and death. I imagined the sorrow and grief being felt, the final of the 'last good-byes'. For those involved personally, they would always remember this day, this event. As a spectator, I'll always remember the experience. I wondered what it would be like for me to take my recently-departed mother's body to the river, witness the consuming flames, and believe as those standing that the soul is being freed to the heavens. Then to collect the remains, and deposit them to the river, it would be a surreal experience for sure.
And yet, such activity takes place between 200 and 300 times a day, everyday. This, as with most everything else in India, seems perfectly normal. Grieving, fires, cows, children flying kites, singing, praying, it all seems to belong here, all co-existing side by side, day after day, one generation to the next.
Rob has mentioned in his previous entries that I am enamoured by a newly discovered notion of matrimonial, in particularly by a notion of arranged marriages. I have never thought I'd say that, but...they are so cool! Let me explain before you explode at me! We had a very interesting stay with a highly educated person in New Delhi. We covered a wide range of topics, one of which was arranged marriages. Prior to our visit to India, I had a pre-conceived image of a young girl forced into marrying some old rich idiot (I am sure it still happens sometimes), the notion which naturally I could not accept. Well, my view has changed after our friend Surindar educated us in detail of the process; as a matter of fact both his son and daughter got married through an "arranged marriage" procedure.
Many arranged marriages show a higher statistics of staying together, many work out great, they are efficient, and practical. It goes something like this. In a local newspaper there is a section of matrimonial "Grooms available", and "Brides Available". The ad includes a description of bride/groom, their education, income (yes - the actual earnings), family background, etc. Then a family of a bride/groom contacts the other family, and in the initial meeting parents of a bride/groom meet (parents only), and get a feel about each other (after all they will be involved in the life as well). If they like each other, they bring a report to their son/daughter, and then arrange a meeting for the young (or sometimes old''er") couple to meet. Usually, the first meeting is very practical, it is a kind of assessment of territory so to speak. If the initial meeting goes well, another meeting is scheduled for the couple. Apparently, it is expected by parents of that couple than within a week or two, they should give a report to their parents to see if this is a worthwhile person to be after. I know it sounds like buying a car, or applying for a job, but think about it. A lot of times, guys and girls work long hours, starting an affair at work is looked down upon, their time of meeting people is limited, and they have a very particular image in mind who they want to marry. In the U.S. we have dating web sites, in India they have match making parents. Makes sense, doesn't it? Let me tell you this - I looked at both matrimonial sections for guys and girls, I was so impressed with what I saw, I even exclaimed "Rob, if you and I were not married, I want to marry that guy!". And for you, guys - you have to see the description of all these brides available. If I were a guy, I could see marrying several of them! :) I will try to post a photo of a matrimonial section from a newspaper, you can see for yourself what I am describing!
I know that I will probably hear an earful about this entry, but I personally try to look differently now at a prospect of an arranged option. :)
My View - No Rupee, No Skoo-pen [Rob´s India Entry (#6)]
Rob's Entry
Kajarahao was where we invented numerous responses to "Which country/Where from/etc.", our names, "Where are we going", and similar inquiries from people that really shouldn't care anything about us.Invariably, and almost without exception, all such inquiries concluded with "One rupee", "skoo-pen" (which we soon understood to mean school pen), chocolate, etc. in the form of a donation to the requester. So the initial contact with strangers would be "Hello, which country you from", to which we'd reply "No rupee, no skoo-pen".This got rid of the most unsophisticated beggars straight away.
One such interaction with a feisty 10 year old boy evoked quite a reaction however.He became quite indignant, and immediately shot off a question "What?!?You think I'm a beggar?!I come from a rich family, I don't want anything from you but to talk."OK, so we can be wrong.I apologized, and we tried to smooth hurt feelings by conversation.Later that day, Anna and I talked about how some of our Indian friends would take to being mistaken as beggars.Imagining some of the responses provided some humor, but also reminded us that maybe we should be more sensitive to the people here.But on some level, it becomes difficult to be polite and respectful when whenever you go somewhere, you encounter dozens of nearly identical lines, all leading to wanting something.Either directly wanting a handout, or an invitation to visit a shop.Not once, but ten times from the same person, though you insist that are not looking for ANYTHING.They are still so certain that THEY have that one item you CAN'T live without.They have all day to pester people like us, but they insist on taking our time.Time that can never be recovered.I began asking that "only one minute to see shop" be compensated by two rupees.That got rid of a few more hassles.
My View - A Special Homestay [Rob´s India Entry (#5)]
Rob's Entry
Our homestay request was met with an invitation to come whenever we wanted, stay as long as we like.We could hardly believe our luck.Furthermore, our stay was walking distance to the Taj (as in Mahal).A quick telephone call to coordinate meeting confirmed the hospitality- our host family was excited with us being their guests.
Seems as though our host family was very well connected, everyone we encountered knew the family.We were advised to take the pre-paid taxi as others want our hosts to pay them extra for bringing travelers, the drivers thinking that the family is running a lodging business.But of course this isn't the case, our homestays are STRICTLY non-business (by mandate of the organization).
There were four main players in our family, the first met was a very interesting man (the grandfather).He was an outstanding host, very intellectual, versed in literature, philosophy, explained that he grew up 'filthy rich' and had a career as a member of parliament.He couldn't go anywhere without people recognizing him.He explained some aspects of meditation and philosophy, some of which I could draw parallels in science- and even quantum features.We were reminded several times to make ourselves at home, this was no boarding house, and we were members of the family now.This was promising to be one of the best homestays.
His wife, we were told, was a very active member in the community and well known for her charity work.We were showed several recent publications (magazines and newspapers) with her picture.Everything was in Hindi, and we were asked if we knew any of the language.Of course it is the same as Chinese to us, not knowing a word.We were informed that we were the invited guests of three of his friends, and were asked with whom we'd like to meet the first evening.One friend is a specialists in textiles, another in carpets, and the last in gems.Hmmm.
After settling in, our hosts came to our room.They were curious how we traveled, what sorts of things we bought along the way. Our clothing was of interest, and Anna mentioned that she planned on donating her coat in India when she didn't need it anymore.This generated some interest in the older lady, as she in involved in charity. They asked about our lives, careers, where we lived, etc.Did we have an address to ship stuff to if we didn't want to carry it with us?They talked about Indian banks, interest rates, and inquired about US banking. Can money be easily withdrawn, or is it locked in?How are we handling money during our travels (I assume plastic vs. traveler check vs. cash, etc.).We didn't think too much about the questioning, our Indian friend in the US told us that money questions are quite common, and we have been asked by other hosts directly how much money we made, etc.We asked if they kept in touch with other Servas guests from the past.They replied that they did with a few, which surprised us.Such hospitality and personalities should have them overrun with friends.A little odd.....
We met the son, probably mid thirties, a very polite and personable man.He also reminded us that we were family now and to be comfortable with the hospitality.His wife's sole purpose (from what we observed) was to cook (for us too) and take care of their two children.We had some tasty home-cooked meals there.She later told Anna how lucky she was, she could choose where she wanted to work.But for her, her kitchen was her life, seemingly captive.
Having a science interest, I select to meet with the gem friend, thinking mineralogy, etc.We made it very clear several times that we had absolutely no interest whatsoever in buying anything- which was all fine.His friend sent a car and driver for us and we were warmly greeted.We were asked about our backgrounds, etc., and we too were 'family', seemingly by association with our host.We were offered things to eat and drink, but we politely declined.Our host disappeared, finding enjoyment in the provided spirits, snacks, etc.We looked at all the trinkets, and having virtually nothing to talking about, we were asked if anything interested us.It was all interesting, to a point.Then we were asked directly if we'd like to buy anything.We explained that we were not interested, looked a bit more (pretending to care), and sought out our host.
By this time, our host was fairly toasted, but fortunately was a happy drunk.Interestingly, he still retained much of his intellectual demeanor, and seemed to have a low opinion of his family.He explained that our gratitude was fine for his family of 'commoners', but that it was almost inappropriate for him, and we seemed to be in his elitist club of western/intellectual-thinkers.After our afternoon meeting with his wife, banking questions and friends in gems, textiles, and carpets, we had been on alert.While in the home, we were quite locked in.Our access to outside wasn't denied, but there would be little we could do if they didn't comply.Having him juiced up gave us an opportunity to probe more of what his intentions with us were.After this time, we concluded that the worst of our concerns were probably not justified, but the family was on probation in our mind.The trip to the gem friend was apparently a 'soft' pitch for us to buy, and an opportunity for our host to get drunk free.I also do believe that he respected us more than his family of "commoners".
Day 2
Our second day was spent entirely at the Taj Mahal, much to the surprise of our hosts (they mentioned the previous day of a restaurant, but we suspected some upscale establishment of a 'friend' and we'd end up paying big).The entrance was a stiff charge, and we were determined to take full advantage of our first (and probably last) trip to the monument.Our host claimed to be an eleventh generation of one of the marble craftsmen that worked on the original.And our host had a surprise for us- a factory tour.
Our host family owned a marble 'factory'.As I've been on many plant tours in the past (where the Trident submarine shafts are made, largest composite facility in the world, the largest building in the world where747's are assembled, where some of the largest yachts are produced, a Czech steel forge shop, Alcoa aluminum, and many others come to mind), I cautiously looked forward to visit another production shop.The 'factory' consisted on three stations, each cleverly powered by a stone attached to a drum.The drum was wrapped by a string, the string was attached by a bow (like on a violin).The bow was moved forward and backwards, and the string caused rotation in the drum, which spun the stone plate.The was a human-powered grinding wheel.All clever, no pollution, and undoubtedly painfully slow.I'm OK with all that, keeping people busy that have all the time in the world- and without emissions or pollution.I also think that the slow rotation speed also allows a lot of control in grinding rocks (after all, only a little bit of material is removed at a time).
The 'tour' began by explaining that Anna and I were "family", and by us explaining about ourselves.Then the tour began by holding up some homemade exhibits of various stones and gems, and what seemed like a fairly polished 'pitch'.As they all worked on the Taj, they knew the construction techniques and used them in the shop.Therefore, the connection was made that after being overwhelmed by the Taj Mahal, we could come to the 'factory' and buy a piece of the Taj.No pressure however, our guide was just happy to have us listen to the presentation made hundreds of times before- all to prospective customers.Construction techniques and materials quickly transitioned to how worldwide shipping obstacles are overcome, shipping packages are robust, credit cards accepted, etc.Several key points made for tangible proof of everyone's true intentions.The first came with the claim that the Indian government allows FREE shipping of handicrafts out of the county to stimulate business.In other words, my understanding was, that the government picks up the tab for DHL and you pay no shipping charges.This later came into question when we were told that we would be given a discount if we took items with us rather than shipping.Of course one could argue that packaging efforts wouldn't be involved, but watching people all day long (and in the shop) selling their time for next to nothing, I can't believe any discount was related to packing.
We were taken to the show room next, more exhibits demonstrating the virtues of marble, and elaborate explanations of how a marble plate could be used for a stand, decorative piece, cutting surface, etc.As our interests waned, we were showed smaller and smaller pieces, with the hopes that some threshold of size, cost, etc. could be found.During this time, I detected the next BS point.Just for us, honored guests, 'family', they would do a one-time free engraving for us on any piece purchased.Later we were told that all engraving is free for everyone (it takes seconds to perform).
We were next take to the final show room, filled with small knickknacks, bobbles, etc.Throughout the whole 'tour', we were explained how everything was made by 'hand', no machinery, etc.I asked our guide how a very circular and deep hole was made in a small block of marble.He insisted it was chipped out with a chisel, though clearly circular machining marks were evident.Pointing them out, he still insisted all by hand.Then I asked the same of another similar piece, then he confessed that one came from the supplier pre-drilled by machinery.Yeah, most all pieces came that way- busted again.As this was going nowhere in their eyes, we were asked if we liked anything.Not wanting to be insulting (or difficult), we stated that we liked it all, and that it was all very nice.A bit later, we were directly asked if we wanted to buy anything.We politely declined, and when pressed further to why, proceeded to explain our minimalist philosophy towards material things (especially junk, but we didn't bring up that facet).That seemed to bring us to a quick close to the plant tour.What a sham.We were also somewhat relieved about our situation, the family was obviously small-time in their ambitions.Though we represent vast resources, they seem content on profiting from us via trinkets.We need to plan our exodus soon however.
Day 3
All nights were cold, and we slept with all our clothes and coats on, but still we suffered.Though we were offered to stay as long as we want, it was clear that for our overall well-being, we need to move on.We planned our day around leaving, and proceeded to leave our room to have our usual social interaction with the family and head out to do our business (transportation tickets, etc.).We were greeted that morning by the grandmother- the one with all the 'charity' work.She wanted a donation for her charity, and she wanted it now (as she was leaving soon to make the donation).We were shocked, so she clarified.She explained that as we stayed in her house for free, we saved money for us to donate.Now.Anna explained that this conversation was very uncomfortable (the daughter-in-law seemed embarrassed by the whole spectacle), so our host started working on Anna's coat.She wanted the coat.Anna explained that it was cold and was still using it, and the coat was not up for consideration of being donated.Our host explained that it was already promised to someone, to which Anna replied that it was her business to whom and when she donated her coat.We were left to consider what type of 'donation' we were to make.I gave her 500 Rupees (about $12), which seemed to please her greatly.Anna was mad as hell, but I was so shocked that it hit me later.I was also glad that as bad as that situation could have become, we got out of it OK.In actual monetary terms, we came out about even considering the cost of accommodation for three nights.On the one hand, we froze every night and had some uncomfortable moments, but also had some good home food.Probably more valuable is a wake-up that not everyone in our homestay organization is trustworthy.After some extremely good homestays, we had become perhaps too trusting.Finally, they may have won the battle, but we'll see that they lose the war by reporting them to our organization, and get them removed from the host list to never exploit people like us again.In hind sight, we should have packed our bags right there and left without any 'donation', but our stuff was out, and locking us in could have been a problem.It also reiterated how small-time they were.They were determined to get something, I'm glad that was all.We spent the rest of the day away, planning our departure, etc.We returned and declined supper (we wanted nothing more from this outfit).
Last day
We got up plenty early to have time to deal with any shenanigans.Fortunately, all went smoothly, except when the grandmother was to unlock the door for us to leave the house.There was the issue of the coat.She still wanted it, to donate, but would accept us sending it to her (making sure we had her address).Anna asked what difference it made who got it, as long as it went to the poor.It made a difference as she already promised it to "someone".She insisted that we acknowledge that it would be possible to have it sent.Anna refused to admit that it was possible.The host insisted again that it must be possible.I agreed that it was certainly possible that we would send it (after all, anything is possible), especially as she was holding the keys.Of course I have absolutely no intention of giving them anything except expulsion from our homestay organization, but whatever to get us our freedom from the WORST HOMESTAY IN OUR LIVES.
We realize that virtually everything about this homestay was coordinated around getting something from us.Whether it be buy gems from their 'friend', marble from their shop, probably a restaurant meal, coat AND donation, etc., everything was focus around a hustle.How we bank, travel, what kind of clothing we have/buy, do we own a house/car/etc., all was to size us up as potential gain for them.Their loss, all around.
I was struck by the oddity of a lunch we had the other day. It all started normal enough, we were at a favorite local establishment in Delhi reviewing the newspaper. Anna is quite enamored with the "matrimonial" section. Those are classified ads for bride or groom searches (a form of this is at http://www.simplymarry.com/timesmatri/faces/jsp/advancedSearchProfession.jsp ). She wanted to have a copy, so I was about to capture some digital images. Anna was puzzled why I wasn't pointing the camera at the newspaper, and similarly baffled why everyone in the restaurant seemed to be looking at her. Then she felt some warm wet wind on her neck, and turned around to be looking straight into a cow's face that had wandered into the restaurant. The cow proceeded to blow snot at her, possibly expressing some interest in placing an order at the dining establishment. Fortunately for me, camera was ready! The restaurant owner calmly poured some water on the cow's nose, and that was enough of a deterrent to wander off down the packed street to possibly root through some garbage or bug someone else (incidentally, I'm impressed with the gentleness people here seem to have towards animals. Imagine the fiasco a similar event would have in your area. There would be animal control staff, panic/commotion, and possibly hamburgers at some point.). After the excitement wore off, some lady sat at our table in tears. Seemed that she and her partner split up after eight years. Meanwhile, Anna struck up a conversation with a traveler from Kazakhstan (in Russian) about Russians living in India, while I tried to console the emotional lady. Later during the meal, we had an interesting chat with an Indian lady of very high class about visiting Calcutta, her British governess, and Anna's travel sandals. Naturally, this combination of events is somewhat peculiar in itself, but the part that made the most impression on me was the following. After our lunch, Anna and I continued our day as though all this was perfectly normal. Reading ads for securing brides, cows wandering into businesses, life dramas, etc. were as natural as going to lunch, noticing a shoe sale, passing a street performer or panhandler, and so on. We didn't really give any of this a second thought (well, at least not a third). That is what our life has become.....
Photos below
Anna is clueless at this point.....
Anna fully comprehends what is happening by now. Note the background people, just another day in Delhi......
Everyday here in India is an adventure. The other day, we were very low; sick, frustrated, can't get anywhere with anything, stressed... you get the picture, though I assure you that everything has a different flavor in India (for example, public telephones don't work, people don't answer the telephone, conflicting answers, unimaginably long queues [like hundreds ahead], etc.). Then some celebration developed on the street, with parades, noise, people (always people), etc. Then the free food (yes, free!) started flowing. Imagine a city of 12 million (Delhi), many poor (I have not viewed poverty like this before), and free food. All worked out OK, we ate good, not pickpocketed, hauled out a lot, but nearly in the middle of mob-scene moments at times..... At least our mood improved, we were touched by the children throwing oranges to us.
The following subject matter is not something that I would typically include for public consumption, however on many occasions after returning from trips to Mexico, I'd often be asked if I encountered any 'Montezuma's Revenge', or similar references. I was always a little surprised at such a seemingly forward and personal inquiry, but learned to overcome my delicate sensibilities and answer directly the truth (which was usually 'no'). There were a few times however that I would respond with references to a little 'traveler's diarrhea' (which oddly, often evoked a little embarrassment from the asker). Such frank responses on my part typically ended the conversation quickly (hey, I didn't bring it up...). So for any who are wondering how my gastrointestinal system is holding up in India, I submit the following report. Before continuing, be warned that the content of this blog entry may not be suitable for all readers. Feel free to skip to the next entry if you have any hesitation about the subject matter. So, how are things working out in India? Had a memorable experience lately. I only decided to write about this because of the above preface; and because few bowel movements are ever truly unforgettable experiences. Oh yes, you might remember feeling sick and the outcome, but such memories fade quickly. But this was different. It is unknown how this condition developed, and it might even be coincidental that it occurred within a week of arrival, but it is something I'll likely remember for a long time. Without going into too much detail, explosive is the only term that seems appropriate. Explosive and deafening. One can often attenuate the sounds made by various anatomical adjustments, but this was futile. I searched at 4am for some type of silencer, but it was full machine gun. An added complication was my inexperience with squat toilets. Again, I won't go into too much detail about the resulting train-wreck that was the bathroom, but suffice it to say that the months of taking care of my bed-ridden mother helped me weather the event. Unfortunately I can't say that things have returned to normal, but my condition is better and will hopefully continue to improve. On the brighter side, my skill with squat toilets has improved somewhat.
My View - To San Francisco to India [Rob´s India Entry (#1)]
Rob's Entry
Moving On The start of our India trip via San Francisco had an odd start. While visiting a neighbor, another neighbor's dog attacked me, tearing the only pair of pants I had and taking a piece out of my leg. Actually, the dog didn't puncture the skin (to blood anyway), but did leave a bruise and some amount of discomfort.
Ouch.
Transit to San Francisco We elected to splurge for the train (as opposed to the bus) to travel to SF. The journey was quite scenic in places (that's the California Zephyr for the train buffs), particularly through parts of Colorado and the Sierra Nevada.
San Francisco While a world-famous tourist destination in itself, our time in SF was mostly centered around acquiring visas and adding blank pages in our passports. It was very good to be back in a larger city again.
San Francisco, near our friends house.
The watefront
Arrival in Delhi First impressions Arrival: Oh my god..... Traffic: OH MY GOD!!!!!! Food: I may never be able to eat American food again.... Pollution: Oh boy..... I don't think that I'll ever be able to forget our first days in India. It has been quite an experience. Not a negative one, but overwhelming. People have been overall very pleasant to deal with, there have been a number of enjoyable interactions, and many that have been somewhat puzzling. Some people have been very helpful and friendly. Touts have been persistent, but the LP book warned of that. Some of the poverty has been...well, let's say overwhelming. Some of the infrastructure has also been overwhelming. The closest comparison I've witnessed so far were in the slums of Tegucigalpa in Honduras. I suspect that some of the Delhi slums are some degree more shocking however. A very interesting variant here however is the occasional cow wandering about on busy roadways, a most unusual scene in my experiences. India has been my #1 travel destination for many years. I've often been asked why, and I'd often reply somewhat flippantly that one can't get authentic Indian food in the US. That was, of course, a joke, but I've come to understand the truth in that statement! The food has been absolutely unbelievable. The flavors are so sophisticated and complex. In the past, I've not been a huge fan of vegetarian cuisine, but I've never had vegetarian food quite like this before! Our transition to Indian life was aided by our exceptional homestay host. One aspect of our homestay that was a first for us was the presence of domestic help. Anna was more uncomfortable with the notion than I, and actually thought that this is something I could get used to! Our first host was very intellectual and a delight to converse with. I was very impressed with the fact that he was a high-ranking military officer (had at least some interaction with Ghandi and the pictures to prove it), very progressive in thinking/attitudes/topics/questions/etc., and our introduction came via a peace organization. His hospitality was nothing short of stellar. Traffic flow is pure insanity. Lane markings seem to mean absolutely nothing as everyone weaves around in an indescribably fashion. The closest comparison that comes to mind is bumper cars that don't actually hit. But vehicles come from all sides (yes, head-on on occasion) with nearly constantly blowing horns. The only way to really describe the situation is MAD. With that said however, I've formed a similar opinion as to the drivers in Central America. The fact that they LIVE (usually) is a testamony to the skill. While most drivers would be cited with reckless driving (and probably have liscenes confinscated on the spot, and/or jail time) in the West, I'm impressed with the seeming lack of traffic jams and congestion. Drivers simply use whatever space is available, and 'lanes' seem to be more of a suggestion to what side of the road to be on when meeting on-coming traffic. I'm also reminded riding my bike through crowds (like between classes at university), except it is everyone doing this- pedestrens, cyclists, three-wheeled auto rickshaws, push-carts, cars, trucks, buses, cows, dogs, etc., all in motion, oncoming, passing, weaving, simultaneously. All this poetry in motion, with nearly non-stop horn beeping. Many have described India to me as an overload of the senses. I think that is certainly an accurate description. However, due to our initial homestay and previous travel in somewhat harsher areas (Guatemala, Honduras, and Nicaragua come to mind), this initial experience has been easier than anticipated. Our host took us to many places on our first day's visit in Delhi. Unfortunately I was so exhausted and jet lagged that it was difficult to adequately appreciate all that was presented. One thing was quite unusual however. While driving on the street, we happened upon a crowd (in the street of course). It was a wedding! A part of the wedding spilled out into the street, dancing was occurring, etc. With our vehicle however, it was quite normal to drive through the crowd, and we were able to get a good look at what was going on (the musicians/band yielded to us driving through, though gave us the 'stink eye'). Of course this was all interesting, but the part I found most amusing was the stray cow standing near the edge of the crowd, fairly oblivious to the event, just doing cow things! I don't think that the cow was part of the festivities or related to the event in any way (though I suggested that it might be related to a dowry), but it seemed perfectly appropriate that it be there. Anna and I went to a famous location in Delhi (Red Fort). Most of the visitors were Indians, and some of their behavior was most peculiar. Anna will probably elaborate more on this point, but it seemed that we were almost quasi-celebrities! More than one person (actually quite a number) came to us to either photograph us directly, but more commonly ask us to pose with them for a picture (Anna seemed exceptionally popular). Children came to have their picture taken, and delighted to see their image on the camera's display. This was great for me as I had eager subjects to photo! The fort was OK for pictures, but the real photographic subjects were the people. Exotic features on exotic people, with often stunning attire. Another somewhat puzzling experience came while riding an unimaginably packed bus. A calm, well-dressed young man told me in all seriousness that I need to protect my wife, that she is in danger, that I should not be taking her on buses again, etc. I questioned him on several points, and received somewhat unclear responses, but this is what I've gathered. There were men on the bus that have 'touched' her (though the way we were packed in, we were ALL touching someone, in fact, we had more of our skin in contact with someone than without). When I mentioned this to Anna, she didn't recall anyone 'touching' her. We talked to our host about all this, and he confirmed that what we were told was likely true. He went on to explain the meanings in more articulate detail, and I sort-of understand, but I think it will take time to fully comprehend the meaning of all this. As mentioned, India has been my dream travel location for years. When asked why, I really didn't know for certain. I've cited such reasons as the food, the numerous Indian friends and the things they have told me that I've found intriguing, things I've read, etc. And of course, many feel that one has not yet really 'traveled' until they've 'done' India. All these things have been a factor in the desire to visit India, but the most accurate reason was that I anticipated that there was an experience to be had. Senses to be overloaded, situations that would shock, surprises to be felt, connections with people to be made, etc. I can honestly state that my first two days in India have delivered all that and more. Aside from the environmental train wreck in front of my eyes, I am happy to be here and sharing a tiny part. I apologize in advance to those reading my entry. Normally my articulation and word usage is more sophisticated than this. However in this instance, I'm writing this on an overnight train (from Delhi to Udipur), and am extremely tired, still jet lagged, and very short on sleep.
Countries explored: Australia, Belgium, Belize, Bolivia, Cambodia, Chile, Costa Rica, Czech Republic, Denmark, Ecuador, El Salvador, France, Germany, Guatemala, Honduras, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Japan, Laos, Luxembourg, Malaysia, Mexico, Morocco, Namibia, Netherlands, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Panama, Peru, Philippines, Qatar, Singapore, South Africa, South Korea, Sri Lanka, Sweden, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, UK, Vietnam.
Bicycled: 3,500km from Paris to Stockholm; 3,500km along the Rhine River and Netherlands; and 3,600km in NW Europe (UK, France, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany, Denmark); New Zealand (North & South Islands).
Lived: United States, Netherlands, Russia.
