Tokyo, Japan
Anna's entry:
As I am writing this post almost nine months later after our journey concluded in Japan, the COVID-19 is still continuing to change the world... It is uncertain how much longer and how much further the repercussions will take us. It is certain, however, the impact on all of us will be massive before all this mess is over. But, back then - nine months ago, we proceeded with our "normal" way of life, well... that is if you can call it "normal".
We had just completed an incredible journey throughout South Australia, explored the back roads of so familiar to us Indonesia, joined the ritualistic festivities in Malaysia, and made our way to the off-the-beaten track and forgotten by most Thailand... There was only one destination left to conclude this special voyage - Japan. At that time. we were unaware that this destination might become our last entry on this blog for a while - or, at least for now, until the COVID mess is over...
Tokyo - introduction
They say Tokyo is THE most price-tag shocking destination - however, I did not find it to be the case at all... Extensive public transport was not only super convenient, but also quite affordable. The food - as long as you shop at local grocery stores and stay with the staples, was very reasonable. Plethora of neighbourhoods and parks to explore provided an absolutely free enjoyment. And, much feared accommodation price was even more affordable than expected. Let me put it this way - months prior to our arrival here, I had booked and pre-paid our accommodation in a fascinating and centrally located neighbourhood of Akihabara, and the cost was cheaper than a budget version in South Australia. And, no - we did not sleep in a cramped capsule, quite the opposite - our previously booked totally private double room was actually upgraded (for free) to a large 6-person room. It was comfortable and cozy - we had a table right in front of the large window overlooking a playground. In the mornings I kept having flash-backs of my childhood in the Soviet Union - when the exercise music would play in the outdoor speakers, and grandmas and grandpas would bring their grandkids to play and enjoy the swings... In the evenings, we would see the constant traffic of modern trains on the elevated tracks carrying back and forth the commuting workers. The latter added to the ambience and perception of the daily real Japanese routine.
Tokyo is quite vast, and it was our first introduction just to give us a taste of this fascinating place. Both Rob and I agreed - it would be lovely to spend a lot longer time here and uncover a multitude of layers this great city has to offer. For now, I chose just a few of those layers to get some familiarity. I focused our attention on the following neighbourhoods - Korakuen, Akihabara, Harajuku, Shinjuku, Ueno, Yanesen, Tsukiji, Yanaka, Ginsa, Nihombashi, Shibuya, Asakusa and Meguro. Planning it that way, I felt, would give us the juxtaposition and the quintessential stereotypes that I found so fascinating. Below is a very brief synopsis of our initial experience in Tokyo.
Traditional Tokyo
Always start with the old... A glimpse into traditional Tokyo was a good foundation to build upon. It also served as a good contrast of what was yet to come. The revered temples, palaces, religious beliefs and traditions would later on be confronted by glitzy surrealism and maid cafes. The old images of Tokyo were soothing and picturesque, but it was only a single layer of a very complicated society...
Modern Tokyo
There were normal (i.e. expected) parts to modern Tokyo, but there were also a lot of head-turners... Creative architecture, sophisticated (and intense) subway system, world-busiest crossings, manga-inspired skyscrapers, futuristic design and non-conformist street culture created an impression of a very
ambitious
and forward-thinking society. One really felt "awake" exploring the diverse neighborhoods. And, one also felt humble in the light of such inventive expressionism.
Quirky Tokyo
Rob and I both love the quirky elements of travel, and Tokyo's subculture did not disappoint - even though we barely scratched the surface and encountered the most obvious elements. The diversity and variety of that esoteric part of the Japanese culture is really incredible. From innovative humanoid robots to convoluted manga, from extraordinary architecture to gaudy red light districts, from weird food to cute garbage bins, from provocative posters to obscure underground establishments... And, how about those popular (and, seemingly, mainstream) maids' cafes? A while back, while travelling in Indonesia, we met a very interesting lady who worked in Japan as a journalist for about 10 years - her writing assignments took her to the unusual world of "Japan behind the scenes". The stories shared with us are too provocative to share on this blog, but even during our short time in Tokyo, the daily fascinating encounters were enough to make an impression.
Having a very limited time in Tokyo, there was one activity that seemed fun to try! It was one of those "innocent", but quirky things - Go Karting around central Tokyo. Rob was in his character! It wasn't just the riding experience - every rider had a chance to pick their own hero-attire. The Go Karting company we chose had not only a great selection of vehicles, but also a huge wardrobe of clothes to try on, depending what you felt like re-enacting that day. After trying a plethora of costumes, Rob and I decided that being a pink bunny with blue head and ears was the right thing to do. Rob looked lovely in it to say the least, and most definitely played his part!
Food & Markets
Rob and I spend over a decade in Asia, and we are used to a lot of "different" food items that a normal Western palate may not be as accustomed to. However. My very first experience of trying something to eat from a morning market in Tokyo left a long lasting impression. I wanted to try something traditional and purchased a (very inexpensive) "stick food" of what I THOUGHT was a part of either grilled fish or eel. I came close to guessing it, but not quite... An attempt of a verbal exchange, digital language translator, and a use of a body language with a grandpa-type seller did not bring a hopeful result to understand what I was buying - except that both of us understood, it was OK to warm up the stick food in a microwave. It looked quite palatable on the outside, how bad can it be? Let me tell you - I will NO LONGER accept anyone's complaint of how bad their breakfast was after WHAT I TRIED that morning. It turned out to be a eel's intestine still filled with some undigested food (or, likely, poop niblets) of what MIGHT have been perceived as a "medicinal value". Would YOU like it to start your day with this kind of breakfast?
From that morning on, the rest of my culinary adventure was pretty good in comparison. The quintessential Japanese sushi (from a normal grocery store, and NOT from an expensive restaurant), was the best value to date! The budget delicious sushi came in big portions, AND came with a real red CAVIAR! I learned the local trick of buying it in the evenings (when the stores discounted it at 50% off), and it was a fantastic value. There were other multiple varieties of affordable tasty food, and it all was very reasonable. Rob and I would pick up a bunch of various food dishes from our local grocery store, and would enjoy it at home accompanied by excellent (unlimited complimentary) green tea provided by our hospitable staff.
There were a lot of very creative desserts along pedestrian streets - those were over-priced (and a total junk food to our tastes), but the presentation was sure very cute. The local teenagers loved them. We also witnessed an unusual grocery shopping culture by office workers. The basements of the major (posh and centrally located) malls were converted into huge food boutiques and counters. After 7 p.m. the sellers would start discounting their (over-priced) items, and workers would rush to various counters buying in big amounts anything on sale. It almost felt like I was transferred back into the USSR in the 1980's when the food supply was in shortage and rationed. But, obviously this "shopping trend" still remains popular and a part of the commuting work culture. I wonder if the "salary men" (and women) are aware of an alternative we have found in our neighborhood, or maybe they just simply do not have the time...
Street Life
I always love exploring a new destination by walking around when possible - this is how one learns about a real person's life and the daily activities surrounding them. Tokyo was super to explore that way. Various neighborhoods and pedestrian streets offered so much to absorb and notice. People's attitude, disposition, cultural esoteric elements, relationship dynamics, colours, sounds, flavours - what a treat for the eyes and mind! Every neighborhood had something unique to offer and contribute, and exploring diverse parts of the vast city was like visiting various parts of Japan. Incredible mix of cultural expression at almost every corner of Tokyo was becoming more and more fascinating. The more we explored, the more obvious it became - we only began scratching the surface of this fascinating city.
Sakura
Our visit to Tokyo coincided with a very special event - cherry blossom festival. It was obvious - Japanese are crazy about their Sakura! The event was so significant, that any possible COVID warning was completely disregarded. The streets were filled with crowds drinking champagne and having a good time exploring beautiful cherry blossoms. Parks, canals, bridges, streets, lanes - were filled with joyful residents, and to our surprise - they seemed completely oblivious to any on-going virus threats.
In some way though, it was a nice note to finish with our most recent trip to this part of the world. We had a long journey home waiting for us, but I think - we have an even longer journey to return back here someday...
FINALE
I have already mentioned that this most recent trip has a special significance - we had started the trip before anyone heard about COVID, and we finished the trip in the nearly empty international airport with the majority of flights either cancelled or indefinitely postponed. A lot to think about, and a lot of unknown yet to come. But, one thing is clear - both Rob and I are so grateful we have had an opportunity and we put it on priority to explore this amazing planet for the past fifteen years. Writing this blog in November 2020, I have no idea WHEN we would realistically be able to return back to our adventures. But, at the same time - I am very aware how much more we would appreciate when the time is right again. So, thank you for reading our blog, and bye for now - until we meet again...
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posted by Rob and Anna @ 9:09 AM
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