St. Petersburg-Moscow-Golden Ring, Russia
Anna's entry:
My blog has changed over the years and became a travel diary of sorts. Throughout our travels, we have changed as well. The travel journey has become our journey of self-discovery. The most recent events I am writing below about are not "travel" in a traditional sense though they took place in a major travel (and still quite exotic) destination - Russia.
Three years ago I went through a very big loss of someone very close to me and who I cared deeply about from my family of origin - in St. Petersburg, Russia. Due to the public nature of this blog, lots of details had to be omitted. All I can comfortably share is that as the pain of the loss subsided (and got substituted by feelings of a different nature), it became very clear to me that in order to heal I must go back to my place of origin and uncover layer by layer what had happened. I could not reverse the impossible, but it was in my power to determine the rest of the outcome. Starting from ground zero, I had to educate myself about current Russian laws, legal system, taxation, financial regulations, insurance, and other logistics that one normally never thinks about while traveling. My friends were raising their concerns and eye brows about my upcoming project, but not my spouse - he knew I would not give up until I get things right, or at least what was realistically in my power and control.
SAINT PETERSBURG
They say St. Petersburg looks good in any weather. I would add to that - taking a memory walk in St. Petersburg is good in any weather. Walking around canals, pausing on bridges, gazing at reflections in the water, being surrounded by history that seems to be present on almost on every corner here... There is something about the rainy days in St. Petersburg though that brings up thoughts and memories. There is a touch of "Dostoevsky sadness", as I call it, when heavy clouds and rain wrap up the city in their powerful grip.
My long walk in the rain brought me to the Peter-and-Paul Fortress located on one of the numerous city islands, and the birth place of the city in 1703. Instead of the usual route, I decided to walk around the fortress walls, along the water line. I started remembering my mother's stories how she used to sunbathe along these walls in her early 20's and then would jump for a swim into the Neva river. I was about the same age when she passed away... She never lived that long to see me develop into a mature adult. Would she have liked the person I have become? Would she have appreciated the choices I've made? I was 23 years old when I moved across the world to live abroad... About two years later my mom's life abruptly ended...
While walking outside the fortress walls, I felt wet sand under my feet. I tried to remember the last time I walked on the wet beach sand. Was it in Indonesia, or Thailand, or Sri Lanka, or somewhere in North America? I honestly had to think... There have been so many countries, so many adventures, so many encounters. Some might think it is bragging, but, honestly - it is just the reality, a "normal" life for us, or at least - it has become the norm by now...
Sometimes, walking around this city in which I was born and grew up, people ask me what country I am from. I probably look and behave differently to be asked the question. Today was no exception. While entering the (in)famous cruiser Aurora - the ship that signaled the start of 1917 revolution which changed the Russian history forever (and nowadays a ship-museum), I was blocked by a guard. He looked at me, paused, and then attempted to speak to me in English. I told him he could speak Russian with me. Basically, he said he did not want me to carry my backpack aboard the vessel, and I told him I did not want my backpack left in their questionable security area. I asked him why the rules were so strict. In Russia, guards are not used to anyone questioning them, so initially he was puzzled by my question. I think he detected some genuine curiosity on my part, and reluctantly explained to me that people bring weapons aboard the vessel. "Why?" The answer was - apparently to explode or harm the historical vessel. It pushed my curiosity even further, and I continued bugging him with my follow up questions about what exactly he had seen people bring. He said "all kinds of things - guns, knives, sprays, bombs..." I asked him if he was kidding, he said he did not, and could show the photos. And, to my surprise, he got out his phone, located the photos, and began showing them to me. His exhibits were sure a lot more interesting to me than the ship itself. And, I actually noticed he began smiling, though he tried really hard to keep up his "macho" persona manners. In either case, it was a curious cultural exchange, so all good.
I continued my long walk along several waterfronts, canals, bridges, squares, got completely soaked because my flimsy umbrella got all broken up by the strong winds carried over from the Gulf of Finland. Eventually, I made my way back to the neighborhood we were staying in - it was near the University I attended back in the 90's, and the area where the great Dostoevsky lived and created his novels. Rob and I had taken numerous long walks here - along the same streets which were used for the novel "Crime and Punishment", and the location where Dostoevsky lived himself while writing the book. It was very special for me. Even the small cafe we used for lunch was right across the building where Dostoevsky wrote his novels. The area also witnesses a lot of major historical events which is reflected in truly magnificent buildings. Living here at this moment is like being sent back in the historical capsule - it is truly incredible...
It's fun to see how city evolves during the day. Naked-looking street cafes in the morning get dressed with flower bouquets, cushion pillows, crystal glasses, porcelain plates and bread baskets by the afternoon. I think, similar to me, they might prefer the silence of an early morning to bourgeois chatter of their patrons during the day.
Similarly, there is something so special about the city in the late night hours. Palaces stretched out gracefully along the embankments have such a glow to them, it just feels magical! I love taking public buses at night along the scenic routes - anywhere you turn, the peaceful beauty and grandeur without the crowds really speak to you as if whispering their story. It really makes you feel like Cinderella, except riding in a bus, and not in a carriage transformed out of a pumpkin...
Walking around the city provokes a multiple plethora of associations that I haven't thought about in years living in far away places. For example, every time I pass by (or visit) St. Isaac's Cathedral, I keep thinking about the great architect Auguste de Montferrand - its creator. It was his dream to be buried along the majestic walls of his lifelong masterpiece, but... he was a Protestant. It was fine to hire a Protestant to design and build a magnificent Russian Orthodox cathedral, but it was not OK for the Protestant creator to be buried within the created cathedral's walls... As often in any religion, hypocritical attitude prevailed. Montferrand died 48 days after St. Isaac Cathedral was completed, and rests peacefully in France.
I seem to be running into a lot of contradictions. It is probably because I have too many free hours to observe, notice, analyze, and compare things, behaviours and events. Or, maybe because I've always liked to think. Walking around St. Petersburg historical streets, squares, monuments, palaces, canals evoke a lot of the above. Lately, I've been finding myself waking up around 5 a.m. to start exploring the city uninterrupted by crowds, and I still seem to be able to discover more secrets about the places and events.
Russian Festivities
Russians LOVE their festivities. A few years ago I dedicated one long blog describing in detail several major holiday celebrations. This time around I would like to add a few new ones to that collection, perhaps not as well known outside Russia, but still quite quirky.
Desserts
First of all, ALL holidays inadvertently lead to a big selection (and consumption) of desserts. And, those deserts are SERIOUSLY good. They are often exquisitely decorated, and often look like a piece of art. Desserts are considered to be a regular household item, and are found in supermarkets, cafes, bakeries, and a few unique ones - in special stores. Do you remember the story about Cinderella shoe? Well, St. Petersburg has their own version of it - high couture chocolate shoes, and the best part is that they totally edible! Below just a few examples of the desserts taken to a whole new level (a word of warning - it takes months to lose all the weight gained from sampling just a small fraction of the irresistible temptation).
Maslenitsa
...is a colourful holiday with pagan routes and usually takes place in February. We went to the traditional Russian Maslenitsa today - celebrate with pancakes, Siberian huskies, folk dancing, and burning of a straw-made mummy - a ritualistic symbol of the ending winter and saying good-buy to any and all bad spirits.
Pancakes are the staple and food symbol of Maslenitsa. Actually, in the Russian language "maslo" means "butter". And, Russians are crazy about their pancakes! Some taste similar to the American ones, but the art of pancake making is taken to a whole another level. The savory ones come in the following combinations - staffed with cheese and ham, beef or pork, chicken and mushrooms, fried cabbage, etc. Sweet variety (of various sizes) is usually served with sour cream, honey, fruit preserve, sweet condensed milk, or occasionally - with caviar. My personal favorites are pancakes staffed with sweet creamy quark (high quality cottage cheese), and if made right, are absolutely fantastic with fresh strong coffee (just happened to enjoy those this morning, actually - at a cozy local affordable cafeteria, which serves everything - from soups and salads to ice cream and vodka).
Easter (with a twist)
--or also known as "Anna and kulich get Easter blessing in Russian style"
Russia celebrates Orthodox Easter usually in early April. I visited several major cathedrals - including sunrise and mid-night services at St. Isaac and Savier-On-the-Blood Cathedrals. They are not only functioning churches, but are actually major tourist attractions, and you have to buy (quite pricey) tickets to enter. However, during special events (like Easter celebration in this case), the doors are opened to everyone.
Easter is a traditional holiday familiar to most. The Russian Orthodox Easter is taken to a bit more intense level - both in a religiously and culinary sense. Judge for yourself...
I was invited by one of my friends to join her family at home for Easter celebration. On the way I decided to pick up a traditional Easter sweet baked dessert called "kulich" . Traditionally, kulich is supposed to be "blessed" by a priest during a special Easter ceremony offered in multiple churches. So, I decided to turn my store-bought kulich into a proper REAL Easter kulich, and took it to a church to have it "blessed". I did not know exactly the proper "kulich blessing" protocol, AND, I think I may have...incidentally... got...also... baptized...
Here is what I remember... I was among other (real) church-goers with similar kulich ideas. Apparently, I completely stood out - no proper church wearing attire, wearing jeans and sun glasses inside a cathedral (I thought it would only take a second). In addition, I happened to get a jolly super-enthusiastic priest who was full of Easter spirit. He was performing his blessing ritual by throwing his sacred church water on people and offerings put up on the tables. When I approached, the amount of that sacred water (and the priest's enthusiasm) drastically increased - my hair, face, and coat got splashed and soaked with tons of water from his sacred brush and water bucket. He probably thought I needed all help I could get (little knowing it is too late for that). In either case, I still was determined to have my actual KULICH blessed. So, I approached the priest even closer, with the kulich in my hands, and humbly asked for blessing it with water again (so that the actual KULICH would be "baptized"). The priest got suddenly even happier and more excited - he may have not heard my request regarding the "kulich blessing" and thought I was asking for yet another blessing of me. He doubled amount of his water and splashed me all over again - three times! I was SOAKED, kulich got its blessing too though. Luckily for my kulich, it was wrapped in a plastic packaging, so only some water got inside. When I got back to my hotel, the access water from the packaging was used for the blessing of the hotel owner - this time I performed the ceremony myself. That's all I'm going to say about my Russian Easter kulich baptizing. Oh, and yes - the rest of Easter went relatively normal.
Defender of Fatherland Holiday
Every year on the 23rd of February, Russia celebrates a Guy-dedicated Holiday today (pompously called "Defender of Fatherland". Basically all guys (young and old) are getting treats and gifts - anything from chocolates made in a shape of a gun to traditionally baked piroskhi.
International Woman's Day
Is a very popular holiday celebrated every year on the 8th of March. Women are bestowed with flowers, chocolates, cakes, jewelry and a responsibility (usually) to spend their entire day in the kitchen and cook a grand feast to be enjoyed by men and other relatives regardless of the gender.
Peterhof in Winter and Frozen Fountains
I had spent quite a bit of time in Peterhof during my youth years, but never had a chance to experience them in winter! One of my local acquaintances, who also has a taste for unique and unexpected encounters, highly recommended this visit to us, and he was absolutely right!
It was very unusual to see the majestic golden fountains and marble floors to be covered in ice and snow - a "frozen in time" metaphor could not be any more descriptive. Rob and I spent hours walking around these vast "Russian Versailles" grounds. For the record (having visited both) in my opinion, I do find Peterhof a lot posher and grander than its French counterpart. In addition, the location and access to the Gulf of Finland gives it even more dramatic feel and setting. If you keep reading this blog, further on you will also see a section dedicated to Peterhof in spring (the normal fountain season) - this is what one would usually expect to see in all the travel literature. The fountains and the Palace are really breath-taking! And, to have a privilege to experience them in their "humble" moment in the middle of snowy winter was quite a treat.
City Walks for the Soul
Sunrise Walks
What a different perspective on the city at 6 a.m.! Had the entire city to myself, only rarely crossing paths with a pedestrian or two. In these early morning hours, some people, apparently, still ride horses (near my university, I saw a rider on a white horse riding along the canal, almost like a picture from the 19th century). You could listen to and watch numerous sea gulls soaring along the canals. And, those buildings and bridges' reflections are so beautiful! Winter Palace, Triumphal Arch, Palace Square - you can have it all to yourself, dance if you want right under the open skies there! To warm up, I stopped by for coffee and quark pancakes at one of my favourite cafes located near the Savier-on-the-Blood Cathedral which was erected in the place of fatally wounded tsar Alexander II in 1881. After visiting the cathedral again and enjoying early morning light reflected on the majestic mosaic walls, I walked by the building where Vladimir Lenin preached his agenda to bolsheviks. While walking along another canal, I stumbled upon the building in which the great Alexander Pushkin died after his fatal duel defending his wife honor; and later - ended up having my traditional Russian meal right across from the Dostoevsky house. History, politicians, tsars, writers, poets - it is all around you walking alongside the same canals, bridges, buildings, squares... I can't seem to get enough of it! Why am I so drawn to this, why doesn't it stop captivating me?
Night Walks
It was after 9 p.m. when I decided to take a loooooong detour after my classical piano concert that took place in the former Dutch Church dating back to mid 1800's (which later on - in 1917, was taken over by Bolsheviks and turned into some other pragmatic use). As I was listening to the music with an amazing temple-created acoustics, I looked up to the dome ceiling and wandered if a chandelier used to be hanging here back in the 19th century... I got my answer about an hour later reading about the history of the building. Apparently, the chandelier from that church was moved to the Hermitage along with a few other objects that Lenin's group considered "unfit" to "fit" within the new political views... For the record, I do understand why the drastic measures to change the mentality (to fight ignorance) had to be implemented, but I do not agree with the methods used.
Going back to the night walk... I have already explored the city in the sunrise hours, and I wanted to check the perception after the sunset... This is what St. Petersburg looks like after 10 p.m. on Monday night, I thought to myself. What a different experience - colours, sounds, feeling, perception! So many new details that are unnoticeable during the day. It looked whimsical in parts. A friend of my spouse called me once "a Romantic", and that's who I am indeed (among other things). The night city was enchanting... It was so beautiful I had to pause on several occasions and stop breathing as if I also wanted to freeze in time with all the magnificence around me. I wanted to feel and absorb every second of it.
The sky at 22:00 above the Palace Square was striking! As I was entering the Triumphal Arch with my ear-phones listening to North American rap (yes, I do appreciate the diversity despite of attending classical concerts), a group of teenage skateboarders appeared. What a historical contrast! Here, back in 1917 a bloody Revolution overthrowing the tsars was taking place in this VERY spot, and skateboarding activity would be UNHEARD of in the Soviet time... But, I couldn't think about that. I was absolutely struck by the sky colour above the Palace Square! Vividly Purple-blue, even though it was completely dark everywhere. As I made my way right to the center of the vast grand square, and positioned myself under the lit up Alexander Column and in front of the Winter Palace, I looked up. Stars, moon, and possibly a planet were clearly visible on that unusual sky. The royal presence, revolution, political plots, conspiracy, defeat, victory, history, celebration, classicism, art, beauty - it was all there, right in front of me.
I proceeded to the Admiralty building, and the Palace Bridge, along the graceful waterfront with statues and picturesque bridges towards St Isaac's Cathedral, then along the canals, bridges, squares, monuments. Every direction I looked, the history and masterpieces were looking right back at me... An enchanting experience to humbly so cherish and appreciate...
How could you not fall in love all over again with this beautiful whimsical city?
Unusual and Quirky Activities
Ice Walking
It gets seriously cold in Saint Petersburg. Today, the daily temperature reached -5F (-20°C)!!! It does help to warm up with a bubbly sparkling wine and caviar for breakfast, and hot tea and sumptuous desserts for supper - one has to cope with the winter, right? Luckily, there are also so many inexpensive cozy cafes where one could warm up during freezing temperatures and enjoy a hearty meal with a warming cup of tea (or vodka, if so desired - seems to be a normal option on any lunch menu).
Despite the biting cold, it is so beautiful though - I wish you could see (instead of reading about it) the stunning historical architecture! I also keep thinking of Zhivago's winter... We are staying for yet another week in the Dostoevsky neighborhood, so it adds to the charm of the experience. The other day, we joined the locals and walked along one of the numerous canals - on top of the actual river covered in thick ice. It is totally incongruous to bring it up in this context, but every time I hear Eminem song about walking on water when it freezes, I associate the words in his song with the images of walking on top of ice-covered rivers and canals in St. Petersburg...
Roof Walking
A friend of mine and I tried a little something unusual in our free time - walking on top of the city roofs. It seems like a new trend around here - to view the city from some unusual places with unusual perspectives. We decided to give it a try one evening with a local "guide". I highly doubt the legality of the "excursion", and certainly can't imagine it done in North America... Over all, really enjoyed it, not so much though when I had to get down on all my fours and had to half-slide half-crawl along some slippery roof slopes... But, the sunset and views were certainly to remember.
Bikers' Fest
St. Petersburg hosted a motorcycle event for several days called Moto Fest. Basically, bikers from various motor-clubs get together to celebrate, hang around, ride in a parade, show their rigs, etc. The event is usually held in the really picturesque historical places that you normally don't associate with the while bikers' culture - like around palaces, cathedrals, fountain squares and pompous squares. It almost seemed like a surreal event - hundreds of motorcycles, bikers, their relatives, foo foo dogs, police, military, etc. It was unusual to see such a diverse group on the Palace Square, including military jets and helicopters flying above the Winter Palace and Alexander Column. The event also included a motorcycle parade along the city's majestic boulevards, canals and embankment. Apparently (as I found out and witnessed after talking with the bikers and the police) the route direction is a top-secret and is announced about one minute before the actual parade. Normally, the bikers would be given in advance two route options (in opposite directions) and just a minute before the actual parade start, a colour-coded flare would be shot by a military indicating the route selection. Can you believe the elaborate protocol? I can confirm it is totally true - I witnessed the whole process myself. It seems almost like a military operation, doesn't it? The puzzling part for me was when I shared my surprise of the entire procedure with the locals, they thought it was totally normal. OK then...
Celebrate with Tanks and Jazz
That was a new one even for me! One of the city beaches area was transformed into a military zone taking places during various epochs and location. The scenes and actions from World War I, World War II, Gulf War, War in Afghanistan, etc. etc. Real tanks, guns, canons, kitchens, medical camps, etc. were set up everywhere. Various military groups (and countries) were represented teaching kids and adults shooting a canon, climbing tanks, assembling automatic guns, etc. Very esoteric event...
Embryos, Pancakes, Robots, Street fests
...The degree and nature of craziness of city walks has increased....(obviously).
I've got a little bit of everything on my daily walk today.
--Was treated to cherepashka (turtle-shape) pancakes (free of charge) at a street fest.
-- Made acquaintances with a handsome human-size robot at the fest - who could shake hands, had pretty clever answers to various questions, and even offered poetry recitals. Pretty cool!
--Discovered "kick-scooter" lock-up stations. Those foot-pushed scooters are REALLY popular in St. Petersburg - I see them all over the place, especially among the city center's commuters (imagine women in high heel shoes riding them alongside guys in business suits and little kids on their way to kindergarten) - really unusual scene becomes totally normal when you see it every day.
Street Action
Mosaic Garden
One morning I headed to so called by locals "mosaic courtyard", but to me it seemed a lot more like a magical "mosaic garden". You would have never known about its existence unless you purposely look for it. The entrance was hidden behind a large wooden door - a part of the arched gate entrance dating back to the 18th century. Though the area is located directly across the famous Summer Gardens (and the original Peter the Great's Summer Palace), it is actually a normal working class neighbourhood consisting of numerous apartment buildings, informal parking spots, walk paths and a playground. One of the former residents (who also happened to be an artist) one day decided to use the area as his canvas and transformed the spaces to mosaic fairy-tale scenes. Absolutely loved the whimsical approach and the passion of the creator!
Street Scenes
It is always fun to come across impromptu (and quite often - unintentional) street action or scenes that draw your attention and stay with you. I have noticed quite a bit of it in St. Petersburg during my numerous walks around the city. I think it is the juxtaposition of the classical royal architecture and completely modern, almost incongruous improvisation that really make things like that stand out.
Parade of Nations and Elephants (yes - elephants) encounters
My yes-still-here-in-St. Petersburg status also coincided with the city's 315th Birth Day. Luckily for me, a lot of major events took place over a multiple-day celebration. Among many activities (including drummer and antique cars parades, motorcycle and light shows, ice-cream and music festivals, street dancing and fireworks, etc.) there were TWO that really stood up for me - Parade of Nations AND Parade of...ELEPHANTS... The latter was totally incongruous as it took place along major city streets (such as Nevsky Boulevard - the most famous in the city), and the barricades that would normally be put in place controlling the crowd were "conveniently" unattended. You can imagine what happened with a crowd trying to get closer to four marching elephants (with tiny mahoots on their backs) - see picture below. I must add, however, that the four elephants were females, and they actually belonged to the city circus - which is quite sad in itself. I have seen quite a few elephants in my travels (including the roaming ones along busy streets of India) - but I just didn't expect to have a similar experience here, in the busy city center. It all ended well (at least for people, not sure about the well being of the elephants - I am sure they could have been better though).
The multi-cultural performances were lovely though. I had a chance to hang around with various ethnic groups behind the scenes and quite enjoyed various cultural expressions and their enthusiasm.
ENVIRONS of ST. PETERSBURG
Pavlovsk
I have a lot of memories associated with Pavlovsk going back to my childhood - from long walks and picnics with my mother to palace and art exhibitions. Pavlovsk is vast and very unusual. It was created in the 18th sanctuary by one of the Russian Emperors - Paul (the official son of Catherine the Great) who himself had views and tastes not fitting with the rest of the royal family. He was actually assassinated in his own bedroom in 1801, but his unusual summer residence and grounds exist up till present day. Where else would you see Roman status placed right under the evergreen trees? Almost every path I took during my last visit here brought out dozens of associations, images and memories going back to my personal family history.
Pushkin, Catherine Palace
Another place associated with my youth. Though in my past, this is the place visited during the warmer months. It was wonderful, however, to be here during the winter months and have almost entire palace to ourselves. It is here, in Catherine's Palace where the famous Amber Room is located. It was stolen during the WWII by Nazis (who occupied the palace and later on destroyed it almost to the ground). It took decades to restore the gorgeous Palace, however, the original Amber Room has never been located - it likely exists in someone's private residences as many missing masterpieces usually do...
Sestroretsk, a memory walk at the Gulf of Finland
People (at least in Russia) fuss so much over the graves - landscaping them, planting and re-planting flowers, changing tomb stones, making elaborate fences and pedestals. With an exception of Taj Mahal, is it truly a commemoration of eternal love, or a tribute to themselves? Or, is it because it is easier to look after cold stones v.s. caring for a living person? Could it be a sense of guilt - realization it is too late to show their love and affection, so this is their last chance to show the person did mean something to them? I honestly don't know what is the right answer - perhaps, it is different for different people. For me, a living person means everything, memories mean a lot, a cold stone means not so much. Having experienced three years ago another devastating loss, and witnessing opportunistic back-stabbing behaviour by whatever is left from my genetic pool - here in St. Petersburg, puts me in a mind-set to look at a few familiar things in a new light. As a young child, I remember asking my mother why Cinderella in the story she read to me was so resented by her relatives? My mom would smile at me and say "Let's hope you will never find out". I think I got my answer now... I do bring flowers and clean up a grave-site a bit just the way I was taught as a child, but it is a recollection of events over the grave-site what brings a significance of such visits. Standing over my mom's and grandma's grave (they are buried side by side) brought up a lot of memories. My thoughts and associations almost always end up with tears, the quiet ones...
Peterhof - Dedicated to My Mother
Peterhof has a very special place in my heart. My mother would bring me here often when I was quite young. She had a genuine curiosity about the world around her and seemed to find the beauty in things that float by being unnoticed by others. She was also quite passionate about art, history, literature, and theater. I remember her taking me to the Mariinsky theater when I was just about 5 years old - at that age the entry to children was strictly prohibited to any evening performances. Somehow, she was able to secure a special permit for me, and the theater officials would reluctantly let me pass... I also remember how she would bring me to various palaces and art exhibits, and due to her distinguished way of speaking and almost theatrical demeanor, there would be crowds formed around us and following us trying to listen to my mother's narrative. It was quite entertaining to observe especially considering the fact that my mom's interpretation of art was totally based on her own observations and undertones as opposed to a curator expertise. My mother went through WWII as a very young child - the bombs, starvation, death, and other atrocities were quite familiar to her, and yet she preserved the tenderest caring loving personality and passion towards beauty and kindness. I was the youngest child and born during her later years. Being a bit older, may have been a factor in my mom's never-ceasing energy and concentration of attention and love towards me, she seemed unstoppable trying to expose me to as many things she could and providing the wisdom and guidance. My friends' (younger) mothers simply could not keep up with her. I had my mother only for a bit more than two decades - she passed away prematurely from breast cancer back in 1999... I was with her during her last two months prior to dying. I remember walking into her hospital room upon arriving straight from the airport, and the first and last image that stayed in my mind is her deep blue eyes...
Peterhof was also the last place we had taken a photograph together back in 1997, with the round fountain and the palace behind us. It was also my last photo taken during this particular visit to Peterhof - with a statue of a Goddess watching over that spot, just like my mother would... I know she is smiling just like that rainbow I see over the majestic fountains...
Night (or is it?) in Museums
By now there is an on-going joke around here - Anna either leaves at 4 a.m. or returns back at 4 a.m. What can I say? I can't seem to get enough of St. Petersburg. Who would have predicted that the city I grew up in would become such an obsession twenty years after I moved away to live abroad? The city has seemed to embrace its healing powers over me - the strength, beauty, resilience, elegance, history, whimsical spirit - I can't get enough of it. I am very much aware of the city's shortcomings - corruption and metal ugliness are still present (though I am very impressed with the younger generation and their softer disposition and open-mindless). For the time being however - I am determined to enjoy to the fullest my adoration and infatuation with the city, there is just no other way! And, I may just have found my culmination sequence of my long visit here.
The Night of Museums - sounds a lot mellower that actually it has turned out to be. For me "the night" turned out to last over 24 hours (not counting all the previous multiple days, nights, walks, rides, etc. etc.). And, for the record - I skipped the Hermitage for this event for several reasons - I have spent countless hours there on quite a few occasions, and most importantly - I did not have "three years" that night (this is how long you could spend there).
Here is a modest sample of my activities just for that very short period time:
Left at 2 p.m. to head out for Gatchina via Day of Finland with sushki and tea from samovar
3:55 p.m. train to Gatchina and Russian picnic on the train
5:15 p.m. arrival in Gatchina
THE ACTUAL NIGHT OF MUSEUMS SCHEDULE
Started at 6 p.m. finished at 6 a.m. - twelve hours of venues
6 p.m. Gatchina Palace, Royal Park, City Walk
8:30 p.m. Train back to St. Petersburg
10 p.m. Knights and Gladiators' Battles at sunset and in the moonlight
11:30 p.m. Classical, contemporary, jazz concerts at Philarmonia
2 a.m. Night City Walk and watching bridges lit up and drawn
3 a.m. Classical concert by Mariinsky performers at Kapella
4 a.m. Embankment walk, sunrise, watching bridges drawn and symbolic buildings; having piroshki snack while walking along the waterfront
4:30 a.m. Rumyantsev Palace
5 a.m. Memory walk on the Basil Island (where my mom's family history started in Russia)
5:30 a.m. Organ concert at Philharmonia, finishing with dramatic Bach
6:45 a.m. returned back to my room
St. Peterburg FINALE
When I was walking along one of the numerous city canals, surrounded by history from all directions, I realized why so many classical writers felt inspired to write here. There is something about the city that speaks to your soul, it captivates you... Some sadness and yet hope makes you want to look into yourself. City canals are just like a person's soul - sometimes they pompously go strong long ways, but then suddenly make curves and slow down a bit; sometimes they are completely covered in ice, and then humbly but surely start showing the signs of life and re-birth; during the day they may look so busy and preoccupied, but later at night they completely transform into quiet serenity reflecting the twinkling lights of the surrounding lanterns and buildings.
As I was wandering along a canal that evening, I felt something inspiring - a sense of gratitude. I felt grateful at that very moment because I was lucky to be born here, but most importantly, that I was different. I was grateful because I was able to absorb the beauty and strength of the city. I was grateful because despite the corruption in the country and my own family, I chose a different path.
I think I'll be OK...
MOSCOW
Having completed my project in St. Petersburg, Rob and I decided to head down to Moscow and visit our good friend Maxim. We met Maxim (Max) while traveling in South East Asia about 8 years ago, and have been good friends ever since. We had already visited Max and his mom in their home near Moscow about three years prior, and going back there again was like re-uniting with your real family - where people genuinely care for you and shower you with kindness and affection. We spent many hours together laughing, recollecting our stories, trying various Russian treats, and just enjoying a warm Russian hospitality.
Moscow is quite different from St. Petersburg - both mentally and architecturally. Moscow is the formal capital of Russia, while St. Petersburg is the (informal) cultural capital. Moscow is one of the oldest cities (founded in 1147), St. Petersburg is one of the youngest (founded in 1703). Moscow has the Russian/Slavic architectural style (for the most part), while St. Petersburg was designed in the classical French, Dutch, German, and Italian styles (by the Western architects hand-picked by progressive Peter the Great and his successors). Moscow is also the largest city in Europe that comes with more aggressive over-crowded attitude, while St. Petersburg is a lot mellower and relaxed. Both cities have efficient and stunning subway systems designed in the Soviet time, and they are like museums located underground. Moscow's subway stations especially have the breath-taking architectural details, and Rob and I spent a couple of hours stopping at various stations to enjoy the grandeur - we are talking classical painted masterpieces on the ceilings, mosaic walls, marble floors, golden scones, crystal chandeliers, bronze sculptures, etc. Below you could see a couple of pictures taken during our last visit of the vast underground system.
GOLDEN RING ROAD TRIP
VLADIMIR to SUZDAL
Max had an awesome idea to take a 4-day car trip and visit various isolated villages and famous medieval Russian cities along the route known as the Golden Ring. And so, the three of us headed down on our winter adventure... The places we visited were very new to me - of course, I have heard and read of them and their cultural and historical value, but had never had a chance to visit them until now. It was the "unknown to me Russia" as Rob called it.
YURYEVETS
The story below is probably the most memorable one from our Golden Ring winter adventure... Max has always had a fondness for one particular place located in a tiny village near Yuryevets, and specifically - for his family's old and half-abandoned wooden house (dating back to the 19th century). I will never forget it... This was one time I came the closest to reaching hypothermia (or more likely - reached hypothermia), but we all survived at the end. Here is what happened...
Honestly, I don't know why Max decided it would be a good idea to use this place for the night. The house originally belonged to his great grandmother, and he visits it only in summer. There used to be a huge wood burning stove there, but apparently it got dismantled, and was replaced with a tiny one - for the summer. It was after midnight - with an outside temperature of -22°C (-8°F) when we pulled into the village... By 1 a.m. we finally cleared a passage way to the house. By 1:30 a.m. the stove was (sort-of) working, and we reached the inside temperature of -15°C (that is 5F!!!). By 2 a.m. we realized it was going to be f...king cold no matter what we did with the stove, and it was too late to go anywhere, so we made a camp for the night. The worst part for me was trying to pee into a rusty bucket (because a real toilet did NOT exist there) when it was freezing cold and you don't even feel your hands trying to pull your jeans up or down! My other two companions (the guys) were able to keep it in for the entire night, ME on the other hand - only for a few hours. I normally would omit details of this kind, BUT - I had NEVER seen my pee freeze up like that in seconds and turn into instant sculptures... Sorry for the personal details, but the visual really had to be included in the story. AND, I am sharing only about 10% of the story, and most definitely omitting the rest!
Needless
to say, the next morning we were SO HAPPY to get the h..l out of
there. On the way out we stopped by a local village lady's house and
bought fresh milk from her cow and home-made sour cream. WOW - I have
never tasted tastier dairy!!! And, the village lady confirmed my suspicion - apparently that night was the coldest temperature on the record, dropping to -35°C (-31°F)!
NIZHNY NOVGOROD
Is a more "modern" city located on the Volga River and is known for its 16th-century Kremlin. The city itself was founded in 1221, but during the Soviet time has grown into quite a modern economic and educational center. Compared to our previous three days of exploration of tiny villages located in the middle-of-nowhere and almost frozen in time, Nizhny Novgorod was not as interesting, but still was a worth stop en route. The modern conveniences almost clashed with the prior several days of desolate places, which enhanced even further the trip we had taken...
Max, Rob and I returned back to Moscow a day alter, and it felt like the trip brought us even closer together. Writing this blog months later, around the Christmas time, brings up a lot of memories. As always on many trips, the best and most lasting memory we have is the genuine connection - with local people or that someone who made you feel so welcome and made your trip worthwhile...
FINALE - thoughts...
Any trip we take is not just about the journey itself, it is a trip to our self-discovery and, hopefully, another step in our self-development. After all, the memories we have is our only option of preserving the past. I am so grateful to be so fortunate to explore the world with someone who similarly will cherish those memories. Why stopping now? After all, tomorrow is another day...
My blog has changed over the years and became a travel diary of sorts. Throughout our travels, we have changed as well. The travel journey has become our journey of self-discovery. The most recent events I am writing below about are not "travel" in a traditional sense though they took place in a major travel (and still quite exotic) destination - Russia.
Three years ago I went through a very big loss of someone very close to me and who I cared deeply about from my family of origin - in St. Petersburg, Russia. Due to the public nature of this blog, lots of details had to be omitted. All I can comfortably share is that as the pain of the loss subsided (and got substituted by feelings of a different nature), it became very clear to me that in order to heal I must go back to my place of origin and uncover layer by layer what had happened. I could not reverse the impossible, but it was in my power to determine the rest of the outcome. Starting from ground zero, I had to educate myself about current Russian laws, legal system, taxation, financial regulations, insurance, and other logistics that one normally never thinks about while traveling. My friends were raising their concerns and eye brows about my upcoming project, but not my spouse - he knew I would not give up until I get things right, or at least what was realistically in my power and control.
Prior to my trip back to Russia, I expected a lot of things,
but I did not realize the extent of self-discovery that this trip would
turn out to be. Writing this blog about six months later after the
trip, I can honestly say that even despite the biggest challenges that
had to be faced and overcome, it was worth every step of the way. I
also would like to express my gratitude to my spouse Rob who supported
and encouraged me in my search for the truth. Oh, and yes - I was able to accomplish exactly what needed to be done.
As
mentioned above, most of the situation specifics had to be omitted,
however, I am delighted to share our travel stories, cultural
observations, and personal experiences. So, here it goes...
SAINT PETERSBURG
They say St. Petersburg looks good in any weather. I would add to that - taking a memory walk in St. Petersburg is good in any weather. Walking around canals, pausing on bridges, gazing at reflections in the water, being surrounded by history that seems to be present on almost on every corner here... There is something about the rainy days in St. Petersburg though that brings up thoughts and memories. There is a touch of "Dostoevsky sadness", as I call it, when heavy clouds and rain wrap up the city in their powerful grip.
My long walk in the rain brought me to the Peter-and-Paul Fortress located on one of the numerous city islands, and the birth place of the city in 1703. Instead of the usual route, I decided to walk around the fortress walls, along the water line. I started remembering my mother's stories how she used to sunbathe along these walls in her early 20's and then would jump for a swim into the Neva river. I was about the same age when she passed away... She never lived that long to see me develop into a mature adult. Would she have liked the person I have become? Would she have appreciated the choices I've made? I was 23 years old when I moved across the world to live abroad... About two years later my mom's life abruptly ended...
While walking outside the fortress walls, I felt wet sand under my feet. I tried to remember the last time I walked on the wet beach sand. Was it in Indonesia, or Thailand, or Sri Lanka, or somewhere in North America? I honestly had to think... There have been so many countries, so many adventures, so many encounters. Some might think it is bragging, but, honestly - it is just the reality, a "normal" life for us, or at least - it has become the norm by now...
Sometimes, walking around this city in which I was born and grew up, people ask me what country I am from. I probably look and behave differently to be asked the question. Today was no exception. While entering the (in)famous cruiser Aurora - the ship that signaled the start of 1917 revolution which changed the Russian history forever (and nowadays a ship-museum), I was blocked by a guard. He looked at me, paused, and then attempted to speak to me in English. I told him he could speak Russian with me. Basically, he said he did not want me to carry my backpack aboard the vessel, and I told him I did not want my backpack left in their questionable security area. I asked him why the rules were so strict. In Russia, guards are not used to anyone questioning them, so initially he was puzzled by my question. I think he detected some genuine curiosity on my part, and reluctantly explained to me that people bring weapons aboard the vessel. "Why?" The answer was - apparently to explode or harm the historical vessel. It pushed my curiosity even further, and I continued bugging him with my follow up questions about what exactly he had seen people bring. He said "all kinds of things - guns, knives, sprays, bombs..." I asked him if he was kidding, he said he did not, and could show the photos. And, to my surprise, he got out his phone, located the photos, and began showing them to me. His exhibits were sure a lot more interesting to me than the ship itself. And, I actually noticed he began smiling, though he tried really hard to keep up his "macho" persona manners. In either case, it was a curious cultural exchange, so all good.
I continued my long walk along several waterfronts, canals, bridges, squares, got completely soaked because my flimsy umbrella got all broken up by the strong winds carried over from the Gulf of Finland. Eventually, I made my way back to the neighborhood we were staying in - it was near the University I attended back in the 90's, and the area where the great Dostoevsky lived and created his novels. Rob and I had taken numerous long walks here - along the same streets which were used for the novel "Crime and Punishment", and the location where Dostoevsky lived himself while writing the book. It was very special for me. Even the small cafe we used for lunch was right across the building where Dostoevsky wrote his novels. The area also witnesses a lot of major historical events which is reflected in truly magnificent buildings. Living here at this moment is like being sent back in the historical capsule - it is truly incredible...
It's fun to see how city evolves during the day. Naked-looking street cafes in the morning get dressed with flower bouquets, cushion pillows, crystal glasses, porcelain plates and bread baskets by the afternoon. I think, similar to me, they might prefer the silence of an early morning to bourgeois chatter of their patrons during the day.
Similarly, there is something so special about the city in the late night hours. Palaces stretched out gracefully along the embankments have such a glow to them, it just feels magical! I love taking public buses at night along the scenic routes - anywhere you turn, the peaceful beauty and grandeur without the crowds really speak to you as if whispering their story. It really makes you feel like Cinderella, except riding in a bus, and not in a carriage transformed out of a pumpkin...
Walking around the city provokes a multiple plethora of associations that I haven't thought about in years living in far away places. For example, every time I pass by (or visit) St. Isaac's Cathedral, I keep thinking about the great architect Auguste de Montferrand - its creator. It was his dream to be buried along the majestic walls of his lifelong masterpiece, but... he was a Protestant. It was fine to hire a Protestant to design and build a magnificent Russian Orthodox cathedral, but it was not OK for the Protestant creator to be buried within the created cathedral's walls... As often in any religion, hypocritical attitude prevailed. Montferrand died 48 days after St. Isaac Cathedral was completed, and rests peacefully in France.
I seem to be running into a lot of contradictions. It is probably because I have too many free hours to observe, notice, analyze, and compare things, behaviours and events. Or, maybe because I've always liked to think. Walking around St. Petersburg historical streets, squares, monuments, palaces, canals evoke a lot of the above. Lately, I've been finding myself waking up around 5 a.m. to start exploring the city uninterrupted by crowds, and I still seem to be able to discover more secrets about the places and events.
Russian Festivities
Russians LOVE their festivities. A few years ago I dedicated one long blog describing in detail several major holiday celebrations. This time around I would like to add a few new ones to that collection, perhaps not as well known outside Russia, but still quite quirky.
Desserts
First of all, ALL holidays inadvertently lead to a big selection (and consumption) of desserts. And, those deserts are SERIOUSLY good. They are often exquisitely decorated, and often look like a piece of art. Desserts are considered to be a regular household item, and are found in supermarkets, cafes, bakeries, and a few unique ones - in special stores. Do you remember the story about Cinderella shoe? Well, St. Petersburg has their own version of it - high couture chocolate shoes, and the best part is that they totally edible! Below just a few examples of the desserts taken to a whole new level (a word of warning - it takes months to lose all the weight gained from sampling just a small fraction of the irresistible temptation).
Maslenitsa
...is a colourful holiday with pagan routes and usually takes place in February. We went to the traditional Russian Maslenitsa today - celebrate with pancakes, Siberian huskies, folk dancing, and burning of a straw-made mummy - a ritualistic symbol of the ending winter and saying good-buy to any and all bad spirits.
Pancakes are the staple and food symbol of Maslenitsa. Actually, in the Russian language "maslo" means "butter". And, Russians are crazy about their pancakes! Some taste similar to the American ones, but the art of pancake making is taken to a whole another level. The savory ones come in the following combinations - staffed with cheese and ham, beef or pork, chicken and mushrooms, fried cabbage, etc. Sweet variety (of various sizes) is usually served with sour cream, honey, fruit preserve, sweet condensed milk, or occasionally - with caviar. My personal favorites are pancakes staffed with sweet creamy quark (high quality cottage cheese), and if made right, are absolutely fantastic with fresh strong coffee (just happened to enjoy those this morning, actually - at a cozy local affordable cafeteria, which serves everything - from soups and salads to ice cream and vodka).
Easter (with a twist)
--or also known as "Anna and kulich get Easter blessing in Russian style"
Russia celebrates Orthodox Easter usually in early April. I visited several major cathedrals - including sunrise and mid-night services at St. Isaac and Savier-On-the-Blood Cathedrals. They are not only functioning churches, but are actually major tourist attractions, and you have to buy (quite pricey) tickets to enter. However, during special events (like Easter celebration in this case), the doors are opened to everyone.
Easter is a traditional holiday familiar to most. The Russian Orthodox Easter is taken to a bit more intense level - both in a religiously and culinary sense. Judge for yourself...
I was invited by one of my friends to join her family at home for Easter celebration. On the way I decided to pick up a traditional Easter sweet baked dessert called "kulich" . Traditionally, kulich is supposed to be "blessed" by a priest during a special Easter ceremony offered in multiple churches. So, I decided to turn my store-bought kulich into a proper REAL Easter kulich, and took it to a church to have it "blessed". I did not know exactly the proper "kulich blessing" protocol, AND, I think I may have...incidentally... got...also... baptized...
Here is what I remember... I was among other (real) church-goers with similar kulich ideas. Apparently, I completely stood out - no proper church wearing attire, wearing jeans and sun glasses inside a cathedral (I thought it would only take a second). In addition, I happened to get a jolly super-enthusiastic priest who was full of Easter spirit. He was performing his blessing ritual by throwing his sacred church water on people and offerings put up on the tables. When I approached, the amount of that sacred water (and the priest's enthusiasm) drastically increased - my hair, face, and coat got splashed and soaked with tons of water from his sacred brush and water bucket. He probably thought I needed all help I could get (little knowing it is too late for that). In either case, I still was determined to have my actual KULICH blessed. So, I approached the priest even closer, with the kulich in my hands, and humbly asked for blessing it with water again (so that the actual KULICH would be "baptized"). The priest got suddenly even happier and more excited - he may have not heard my request regarding the "kulich blessing" and thought I was asking for yet another blessing of me. He doubled amount of his water and splashed me all over again - three times! I was SOAKED, kulich got its blessing too though. Luckily for my kulich, it was wrapped in a plastic packaging, so only some water got inside. When I got back to my hotel, the access water from the packaging was used for the blessing of the hotel owner - this time I performed the ceremony myself. That's all I'm going to say about my Russian Easter kulich baptizing. Oh, and yes - the rest of Easter went relatively normal.
Defender of Fatherland Holiday
Every year on the 23rd of February, Russia celebrates a Guy-dedicated Holiday today (pompously called "Defender of Fatherland". Basically all guys (young and old) are getting treats and gifts - anything from chocolates made in a shape of a gun to traditionally baked piroskhi.
International Woman's Day
Is a very popular holiday celebrated every year on the 8th of March. Women are bestowed with flowers, chocolates, cakes, jewelry and a responsibility (usually) to spend their entire day in the kitchen and cook a grand feast to be enjoyed by men and other relatives regardless of the gender.
Peterhof in Winter and Frozen Fountains
I had spent quite a bit of time in Peterhof during my youth years, but never had a chance to experience them in winter! One of my local acquaintances, who also has a taste for unique and unexpected encounters, highly recommended this visit to us, and he was absolutely right!
It was very unusual to see the majestic golden fountains and marble floors to be covered in ice and snow - a "frozen in time" metaphor could not be any more descriptive. Rob and I spent hours walking around these vast "Russian Versailles" grounds. For the record (having visited both) in my opinion, I do find Peterhof a lot posher and grander than its French counterpart. In addition, the location and access to the Gulf of Finland gives it even more dramatic feel and setting. If you keep reading this blog, further on you will also see a section dedicated to Peterhof in spring (the normal fountain season) - this is what one would usually expect to see in all the travel literature. The fountains and the Palace are really breath-taking! And, to have a privilege to experience them in their "humble" moment in the middle of snowy winter was quite a treat.
City Walks for the Soul
Sunrise Walks
What a different perspective on the city at 6 a.m.! Had the entire city to myself, only rarely crossing paths with a pedestrian or two. In these early morning hours, some people, apparently, still ride horses (near my university, I saw a rider on a white horse riding along the canal, almost like a picture from the 19th century). You could listen to and watch numerous sea gulls soaring along the canals. And, those buildings and bridges' reflections are so beautiful! Winter Palace, Triumphal Arch, Palace Square - you can have it all to yourself, dance if you want right under the open skies there! To warm up, I stopped by for coffee and quark pancakes at one of my favourite cafes located near the Savier-on-the-Blood Cathedral which was erected in the place of fatally wounded tsar Alexander II in 1881. After visiting the cathedral again and enjoying early morning light reflected on the majestic mosaic walls, I walked by the building where Vladimir Lenin preached his agenda to bolsheviks. While walking along another canal, I stumbled upon the building in which the great Alexander Pushkin died after his fatal duel defending his wife honor; and later - ended up having my traditional Russian meal right across from the Dostoevsky house. History, politicians, tsars, writers, poets - it is all around you walking alongside the same canals, bridges, buildings, squares... I can't seem to get enough of it! Why am I so drawn to this, why doesn't it stop captivating me?
Night Walks
It was after 9 p.m. when I decided to take a loooooong detour after my classical piano concert that took place in the former Dutch Church dating back to mid 1800's (which later on - in 1917, was taken over by Bolsheviks and turned into some other pragmatic use). As I was listening to the music with an amazing temple-created acoustics, I looked up to the dome ceiling and wandered if a chandelier used to be hanging here back in the 19th century... I got my answer about an hour later reading about the history of the building. Apparently, the chandelier from that church was moved to the Hermitage along with a few other objects that Lenin's group considered "unfit" to "fit" within the new political views... For the record, I do understand why the drastic measures to change the mentality (to fight ignorance) had to be implemented, but I do not agree with the methods used.
Going back to the night walk... I have already explored the city in the sunrise hours, and I wanted to check the perception after the sunset... This is what St. Petersburg looks like after 10 p.m. on Monday night, I thought to myself. What a different experience - colours, sounds, feeling, perception! So many new details that are unnoticeable during the day. It looked whimsical in parts. A friend of my spouse called me once "a Romantic", and that's who I am indeed (among other things). The night city was enchanting... It was so beautiful I had to pause on several occasions and stop breathing as if I also wanted to freeze in time with all the magnificence around me. I wanted to feel and absorb every second of it.
The sky at 22:00 above the Palace Square was striking! As I was entering the Triumphal Arch with my ear-phones listening to North American rap (yes, I do appreciate the diversity despite of attending classical concerts), a group of teenage skateboarders appeared. What a historical contrast! Here, back in 1917 a bloody Revolution overthrowing the tsars was taking place in this VERY spot, and skateboarding activity would be UNHEARD of in the Soviet time... But, I couldn't think about that. I was absolutely struck by the sky colour above the Palace Square! Vividly Purple-blue, even though it was completely dark everywhere. As I made my way right to the center of the vast grand square, and positioned myself under the lit up Alexander Column and in front of the Winter Palace, I looked up. Stars, moon, and possibly a planet were clearly visible on that unusual sky. The royal presence, revolution, political plots, conspiracy, defeat, victory, history, celebration, classicism, art, beauty - it was all there, right in front of me.
I proceeded to the Admiralty building, and the Palace Bridge, along the graceful waterfront with statues and picturesque bridges towards St Isaac's Cathedral, then along the canals, bridges, squares, monuments. Every direction I looked, the history and masterpieces were looking right back at me... An enchanting experience to humbly so cherish and appreciate...
How could you not fall in love all over again with this beautiful whimsical city?
Unusual and Quirky Activities
Ice Walking
It gets seriously cold in Saint Petersburg. Today, the daily temperature reached -5F (-20°C)!!! It does help to warm up with a bubbly sparkling wine and caviar for breakfast, and hot tea and sumptuous desserts for supper - one has to cope with the winter, right? Luckily, there are also so many inexpensive cozy cafes where one could warm up during freezing temperatures and enjoy a hearty meal with a warming cup of tea (or vodka, if so desired - seems to be a normal option on any lunch menu).
Despite the biting cold, it is so beautiful though - I wish you could see (instead of reading about it) the stunning historical architecture! I also keep thinking of Zhivago's winter... We are staying for yet another week in the Dostoevsky neighborhood, so it adds to the charm of the experience. The other day, we joined the locals and walked along one of the numerous canals - on top of the actual river covered in thick ice. It is totally incongruous to bring it up in this context, but every time I hear Eminem song about walking on water when it freezes, I associate the words in his song with the images of walking on top of ice-covered rivers and canals in St. Petersburg...
Roof Walking
A friend of mine and I tried a little something unusual in our free time - walking on top of the city roofs. It seems like a new trend around here - to view the city from some unusual places with unusual perspectives. We decided to give it a try one evening with a local "guide". I highly doubt the legality of the "excursion", and certainly can't imagine it done in North America... Over all, really enjoyed it, not so much though when I had to get down on all my fours and had to half-slide half-crawl along some slippery roof slopes... But, the sunset and views were certainly to remember.
We ended up trying "roof walking"
in two various parts of the city - mainly because I put up a protest to
our "guide" who tried cheating us from half of our "excursion" time. In
either case, we got what we signed up for - unusual memorable
experiences, or so we thought... The next morning, after sending my
comments to the "excursion" agency, I got a surprise phone call from that
agency. Long story short - we NEVER got the excursion from the agency
we signed up with, and who we "roof-walked" with is still unclear! Our
group may have been "intercepted" by their competitor; however, when I
contacted them, they refused to admit. So, it sounds like I
(unintentionally)
started the roof-walking "agency v.s. agency" war, and
the elusive "guide" is apparently on the run. The guy was completely worthless as
a guide, but he sure knew his roofs and access to them!
Bikers' Fest
St. Petersburg hosted a motorcycle event for several days called Moto Fest. Basically, bikers from various motor-clubs get together to celebrate, hang around, ride in a parade, show their rigs, etc. The event is usually held in the really picturesque historical places that you normally don't associate with the while bikers' culture - like around palaces, cathedrals, fountain squares and pompous squares. It almost seemed like a surreal event - hundreds of motorcycles, bikers, their relatives, foo foo dogs, police, military, etc. It was unusual to see such a diverse group on the Palace Square, including military jets and helicopters flying above the Winter Palace and Alexander Column. The event also included a motorcycle parade along the city's majestic boulevards, canals and embankment. Apparently (as I found out and witnessed after talking with the bikers and the police) the route direction is a top-secret and is announced about one minute before the actual parade. Normally, the bikers would be given in advance two route options (in opposite directions) and just a minute before the actual parade start, a colour-coded flare would be shot by a military indicating the route selection. Can you believe the elaborate protocol? I can confirm it is totally true - I witnessed the whole process myself. It seems almost like a military operation, doesn't it? The puzzling part for me was when I shared my surprise of the entire procedure with the locals, they thought it was totally normal. OK then...
Celebrate with Tanks and Jazz
That was a new one even for me! One of the city beaches area was transformed into a military zone taking places during various epochs and location. The scenes and actions from World War I, World War II, Gulf War, War in Afghanistan, etc. etc. Real tanks, guns, canons, kitchens, medical camps, etc. were set up everywhere. Various military groups (and countries) were represented teaching kids and adults shooting a canon, climbing tanks, assembling automatic guns, etc. Very esoteric event...
Embryos, Pancakes, Robots, Street fests
...The degree and nature of craziness of city walks has increased....(obviously).
I've got a little bit of everything on my daily walk today.
--Was treated to cherepashka (turtle-shape) pancakes (free of charge) at a street fest.
-- Made acquaintances with a handsome human-size robot at the fest - who could shake hands, had pretty clever answers to various questions, and even offered poetry recitals. Pretty cool!
--Discovered "kick-scooter" lock-up stations. Those foot-pushed scooters are REALLY popular in St. Petersburg - I see them all over the place, especially among the city center's commuters (imagine women in high heel shoes riding them alongside guys in business suits and little kids on their way to kindergarten) - really unusual scene becomes totally normal when you see it every day.
--Explored and took some photos of well preserved (dolphin and whale) embryos at the Zoological Museum dating back to Peter's the Great
time (that is 18th century by the way)...
--Watched Russian krishnas festivities and dances along the Nevsky Boulvard.
--Explored the Palace Square which today had presence of both tanks and horse-drawn carriages.
--Was given a private tour and a real theatrical performance by one of the curators at the Soil Science Museum - at some point I even humbly inquired if the lady-curator was also working part-time for the Marrinsky theater because her manner of speaking and attire were nothing even remotely close to "science", and I still hear her voice and see her bigger-than-life image in my head...
--To get my mind cleared off from all the daily juxtapositions, finished my day by riding (on my 24-hour unlimited day pass) scenic bus routes and enjoying the sunsets over the palaces, squares, bridges, cathedrals, canals. I am really in love with St. Petersburg...
--Watched Russian krishnas festivities and dances along the Nevsky Boulvard.
--Explored the Palace Square which today had presence of both tanks and horse-drawn carriages.
--Was given a private tour and a real theatrical performance by one of the curators at the Soil Science Museum - at some point I even humbly inquired if the lady-curator was also working part-time for the Marrinsky theater because her manner of speaking and attire were nothing even remotely close to "science", and I still hear her voice and see her bigger-than-life image in my head...
--To get my mind cleared off from all the daily juxtapositions, finished my day by riding (on my 24-hour unlimited day pass) scenic bus routes and enjoying the sunsets over the palaces, squares, bridges, cathedrals, canals. I am really in love with St. Petersburg...
Street Action
Mosaic Garden
One morning I headed to so called by locals "mosaic courtyard", but to me it seemed a lot more like a magical "mosaic garden". You would have never known about its existence unless you purposely look for it. The entrance was hidden behind a large wooden door - a part of the arched gate entrance dating back to the 18th century. Though the area is located directly across the famous Summer Gardens (and the original Peter the Great's Summer Palace), it is actually a normal working class neighbourhood consisting of numerous apartment buildings, informal parking spots, walk paths and a playground. One of the former residents (who also happened to be an artist) one day decided to use the area as his canvas and transformed the spaces to mosaic fairy-tale scenes. Absolutely loved the whimsical approach and the passion of the creator!
Street Scenes
It is always fun to come across impromptu (and quite often - unintentional) street action or scenes that draw your attention and stay with you. I have noticed quite a bit of it in St. Petersburg during my numerous walks around the city. I think it is the juxtaposition of the classical royal architecture and completely modern, almost incongruous improvisation that really make things like that stand out.
Cathedral or Milk Factory?
Explored new parts of the new neighbourhood I am staying in, and came across what
looked like a Kremlin Wall. A very interesting cathedral/monastery
near by - turned out it was built around 1914 in honor of Romanoffs, and later on - during the Soviet time, it was turned into a milk factory . The main
priest was executed during the Stalin time, the rest the monks were sent to
labour camps. Keep finding more history in my own city of origin... Now the
cathedral is all restored, and is functioning again. Had a chance to attend a (free) classical concert inside - the acoustics was beautiful (except for a screaming toddler that tried to compete with the quire singing).
Parade of Nations and Elephants (yes - elephants) encounters
My yes-still-here-in-St. Petersburg status also coincided with the city's 315th Birth Day. Luckily for me, a lot of major events took place over a multiple-day celebration. Among many activities (including drummer and antique cars parades, motorcycle and light shows, ice-cream and music festivals, street dancing and fireworks, etc.) there were TWO that really stood up for me - Parade of Nations AND Parade of...ELEPHANTS... The latter was totally incongruous as it took place along major city streets (such as Nevsky Boulevard - the most famous in the city), and the barricades that would normally be put in place controlling the crowd were "conveniently" unattended. You can imagine what happened with a crowd trying to get closer to four marching elephants (with tiny mahoots on their backs) - see picture below. I must add, however, that the four elephants were females, and they actually belonged to the city circus - which is quite sad in itself. I have seen quite a few elephants in my travels (including the roaming ones along busy streets of India) - but I just didn't expect to have a similar experience here, in the busy city center. It all ended well (at least for people, not sure about the well being of the elephants - I am sure they could have been better though).
The multi-cultural performances were lovely though. I had a chance to hang around with various ethnic groups behind the scenes and quite enjoyed various cultural expressions and their enthusiasm.
ENVIRONS of ST. PETERSBURG
Pavlovsk
I have a lot of memories associated with Pavlovsk going back to my childhood - from long walks and picnics with my mother to palace and art exhibitions. Pavlovsk is vast and very unusual. It was created in the 18th sanctuary by one of the Russian Emperors - Paul (the official son of Catherine the Great) who himself had views and tastes not fitting with the rest of the royal family. He was actually assassinated in his own bedroom in 1801, but his unusual summer residence and grounds exist up till present day. Where else would you see Roman status placed right under the evergreen trees? Almost every path I took during my last visit here brought out dozens of associations, images and memories going back to my personal family history.
Pushkin, Catherine Palace
Another place associated with my youth. Though in my past, this is the place visited during the warmer months. It was wonderful, however, to be here during the winter months and have almost entire palace to ourselves. It is here, in Catherine's Palace where the famous Amber Room is located. It was stolen during the WWII by Nazis (who occupied the palace and later on destroyed it almost to the ground). It took decades to restore the gorgeous Palace, however, the original Amber Room has never been located - it likely exists in someone's private residences as many missing masterpieces usually do...
Sestroretsk, a memory walk at the Gulf of Finland
People (at least in Russia) fuss so much over the graves - landscaping them, planting and re-planting flowers, changing tomb stones, making elaborate fences and pedestals. With an exception of Taj Mahal, is it truly a commemoration of eternal love, or a tribute to themselves? Or, is it because it is easier to look after cold stones v.s. caring for a living person? Could it be a sense of guilt - realization it is too late to show their love and affection, so this is their last chance to show the person did mean something to them? I honestly don't know what is the right answer - perhaps, it is different for different people. For me, a living person means everything, memories mean a lot, a cold stone means not so much. Having experienced three years ago another devastating loss, and witnessing opportunistic back-stabbing behaviour by whatever is left from my genetic pool - here in St. Petersburg, puts me in a mind-set to look at a few familiar things in a new light. As a young child, I remember asking my mother why Cinderella in the story she read to me was so resented by her relatives? My mom would smile at me and say "Let's hope you will never find out". I think I got my answer now... I do bring flowers and clean up a grave-site a bit just the way I was taught as a child, but it is a recollection of events over the grave-site what brings a significance of such visits. Standing over my mom's and grandma's grave (they are buried side by side) brought up a lot of memories. My thoughts and associations almost always end up with tears, the quiet ones...
Peterhof - Dedicated to My Mother
Peterhof has a very special place in my heart. My mother would bring me here often when I was quite young. She had a genuine curiosity about the world around her and seemed to find the beauty in things that float by being unnoticed by others. She was also quite passionate about art, history, literature, and theater. I remember her taking me to the Mariinsky theater when I was just about 5 years old - at that age the entry to children was strictly prohibited to any evening performances. Somehow, she was able to secure a special permit for me, and the theater officials would reluctantly let me pass... I also remember how she would bring me to various palaces and art exhibits, and due to her distinguished way of speaking and almost theatrical demeanor, there would be crowds formed around us and following us trying to listen to my mother's narrative. It was quite entertaining to observe especially considering the fact that my mom's interpretation of art was totally based on her own observations and undertones as opposed to a curator expertise. My mother went through WWII as a very young child - the bombs, starvation, death, and other atrocities were quite familiar to her, and yet she preserved the tenderest caring loving personality and passion towards beauty and kindness. I was the youngest child and born during her later years. Being a bit older, may have been a factor in my mom's never-ceasing energy and concentration of attention and love towards me, she seemed unstoppable trying to expose me to as many things she could and providing the wisdom and guidance. My friends' (younger) mothers simply could not keep up with her. I had my mother only for a bit more than two decades - she passed away prematurely from breast cancer back in 1999... I was with her during her last two months prior to dying. I remember walking into her hospital room upon arriving straight from the airport, and the first and last image that stayed in my mind is her deep blue eyes...
Peterhof was also the last place we had taken a photograph together back in 1997, with the round fountain and the palace behind us. It was also my last photo taken during this particular visit to Peterhof - with a statue of a Goddess watching over that spot, just like my mother would... I know she is smiling just like that rainbow I see over the majestic fountains...
Night (or is it?) in Museums
By now there is an on-going joke around here - Anna either leaves at 4 a.m. or returns back at 4 a.m. What can I say? I can't seem to get enough of St. Petersburg. Who would have predicted that the city I grew up in would become such an obsession twenty years after I moved away to live abroad? The city has seemed to embrace its healing powers over me - the strength, beauty, resilience, elegance, history, whimsical spirit - I can't get enough of it. I am very much aware of the city's shortcomings - corruption and metal ugliness are still present (though I am very impressed with the younger generation and their softer disposition and open-mindless). For the time being however - I am determined to enjoy to the fullest my adoration and infatuation with the city, there is just no other way! And, I may just have found my culmination sequence of my long visit here.
The Night of Museums - sounds a lot mellower that actually it has turned out to be. For me "the night" turned out to last over 24 hours (not counting all the previous multiple days, nights, walks, rides, etc. etc.). And, for the record - I skipped the Hermitage for this event for several reasons - I have spent countless hours there on quite a few occasions, and most importantly - I did not have "three years" that night (this is how long you could spend there).
Here is a modest sample of my activities just for that very short period time:
Left at 2 p.m. to head out for Gatchina via Day of Finland with sushki and tea from samovar
3:55 p.m. train to Gatchina and Russian picnic on the train
5:15 p.m. arrival in Gatchina
THE ACTUAL NIGHT OF MUSEUMS SCHEDULE
Started at 6 p.m. finished at 6 a.m. - twelve hours of venues
6 p.m. Gatchina Palace, Royal Park, City Walk
8:30 p.m. Train back to St. Petersburg
10 p.m. Knights and Gladiators' Battles at sunset and in the moonlight
11:30 p.m. Classical, contemporary, jazz concerts at Philarmonia
2 a.m. Night City Walk and watching bridges lit up and drawn
3 a.m. Classical concert by Mariinsky performers at Kapella
4 a.m. Embankment walk, sunrise, watching bridges drawn and symbolic buildings; having piroshki snack while walking along the waterfront
4:30 a.m. Rumyantsev Palace
5 a.m. Memory walk on the Basil Island (where my mom's family history started in Russia)
5:30 a.m. Organ concert at Philharmonia, finishing with dramatic Bach
6:45 a.m. returned back to my room
St. Peterburg FINALE
Canal of the soul
I
spent a day at my long-term friend's home. Our friendship and relationship seemed to
be deteriorating over past few months, or more likely we were
discovering things about each other that neither one of us could relate
to or appreciate. Basically, it was obvious to us (or at least to me)
that we were very different people with very different views, but we had
a long friendship history, and neither one of us wanted to be the first to end it. So, out of politeness, she kept inviting me to various
festivities at her home, and out of politeness I kept accepting them.
This time it was no exception - I attended yet another festivity while
having no desire being there. I left her home late in the evening.
When I got back to "the city", I felt so much more alive, more myself.
My chest exhaled a deep long sigh, and I felt a smile returning to my
face. I purposely got out off the subway sooner
to enjoy a night walk along a canal before settling back into my place
for the night. The buildings were all lit up, a soft music was playing
from one of the restaurants, it felt peaceful... While walking
alongside the Kazan Cathedral, I paused for a bit. I had walked by the
cathedral so many times, and yet, it was the first time I noticed there
was an actual icon painted outside on one of the cathedral walls. I
wonder how many things like that we constantly miss until we actually
pause...
When I was walking along one of the numerous city canals, surrounded by history from all directions, I realized why so many classical writers felt inspired to write here. There is something about the city that speaks to your soul, it captivates you... Some sadness and yet hope makes you want to look into yourself. City canals are just like a person's soul - sometimes they pompously go strong long ways, but then suddenly make curves and slow down a bit; sometimes they are completely covered in ice, and then humbly but surely start showing the signs of life and re-birth; during the day they may look so busy and preoccupied, but later at night they completely transform into quiet serenity reflecting the twinkling lights of the surrounding lanterns and buildings.
As I was wandering along a canal that evening, I felt something inspiring - a sense of gratitude. I felt grateful at that very moment because I was lucky to be born here, but most importantly, that I was different. I was grateful because I was able to absorb the beauty and strength of the city. I was grateful because despite the corruption in the country and my own family, I chose a different path.
I think I'll be OK...
MOSCOW
Having completed my project in St. Petersburg, Rob and I decided to head down to Moscow and visit our good friend Maxim. We met Maxim (Max) while traveling in South East Asia about 8 years ago, and have been good friends ever since. We had already visited Max and his mom in their home near Moscow about three years prior, and going back there again was like re-uniting with your real family - where people genuinely care for you and shower you with kindness and affection. We spent many hours together laughing, recollecting our stories, trying various Russian treats, and just enjoying a warm Russian hospitality.
Moscow is quite different from St. Petersburg - both mentally and architecturally. Moscow is the formal capital of Russia, while St. Petersburg is the (informal) cultural capital. Moscow is one of the oldest cities (founded in 1147), St. Petersburg is one of the youngest (founded in 1703). Moscow has the Russian/Slavic architectural style (for the most part), while St. Petersburg was designed in the classical French, Dutch, German, and Italian styles (by the Western architects hand-picked by progressive Peter the Great and his successors). Moscow is also the largest city in Europe that comes with more aggressive over-crowded attitude, while St. Petersburg is a lot mellower and relaxed. Both cities have efficient and stunning subway systems designed in the Soviet time, and they are like museums located underground. Moscow's subway stations especially have the breath-taking architectural details, and Rob and I spent a couple of hours stopping at various stations to enjoy the grandeur - we are talking classical painted masterpieces on the ceilings, mosaic walls, marble floors, golden scones, crystal chandeliers, bronze sculptures, etc. Below you could see a couple of pictures taken during our last visit of the vast underground system.
GOLDEN RING ROAD TRIP
VLADIMIR to SUZDAL
Max had an awesome idea to take a 4-day car trip and visit various isolated villages and famous medieval Russian cities along the route known as the Golden Ring. And so, the three of us headed down on our winter adventure... The places we visited were very new to me - of course, I have heard and read of them and their cultural and historical value, but had never had a chance to visit them until now. It was the "unknown to me Russia" as Rob called it.
YURYEVETS
The story below is probably the most memorable one from our Golden Ring winter adventure... Max has always had a fondness for one particular place located in a tiny village near Yuryevets, and specifically - for his family's old and half-abandoned wooden house (dating back to the 19th century). I will never forget it... This was one time I came the closest to reaching hypothermia (or more likely - reached hypothermia), but we all survived at the end. Here is what happened...
Honestly, I don't know why Max decided it would be a good idea to use this place for the night. The house originally belonged to his great grandmother, and he visits it only in summer. There used to be a huge wood burning stove there, but apparently it got dismantled, and was replaced with a tiny one - for the summer. It was after midnight - with an outside temperature of -22°C (-8°F) when we pulled into the village... By 1 a.m. we finally cleared a passage way to the house. By 1:30 a.m. the stove was (sort-of) working, and we reached the inside temperature of -15°C (that is 5F!!!). By 2 a.m. we realized it was going to be f...king cold no matter what we did with the stove, and it was too late to go anywhere, so we made a camp for the night. The worst part for me was trying to pee into a rusty bucket (because a real toilet did NOT exist there) when it was freezing cold and you don't even feel your hands trying to pull your jeans up or down! My other two companions (the guys) were able to keep it in for the entire night, ME on the other hand - only for a few hours. I normally would omit details of this kind, BUT - I had NEVER seen my pee freeze up like that in seconds and turn into instant sculptures... Sorry for the personal details, but the visual really had to be included in the story. AND, I am sharing only about 10% of the story, and most definitely omitting the rest!
NIZHNY NOVGOROD
Is a more "modern" city located on the Volga River and is known for its 16th-century Kremlin. The city itself was founded in 1221, but during the Soviet time has grown into quite a modern economic and educational center. Compared to our previous three days of exploration of tiny villages located in the middle-of-nowhere and almost frozen in time, Nizhny Novgorod was not as interesting, but still was a worth stop en route. The modern conveniences almost clashed with the prior several days of desolate places, which enhanced even further the trip we had taken...
Max, Rob and I returned back to Moscow a day alter, and it felt like the trip brought us even closer together. Writing this blog months later, around the Christmas time, brings up a lot of memories. As always on many trips, the best and most lasting memory we have is the genuine connection - with local people or that someone who made you feel so welcome and made your trip worthwhile...
FINALE - thoughts...
Any trip we take is not just about the journey itself, it is a trip to our self-discovery and, hopefully, another step in our self-development. After all, the memories we have is our only option of preserving the past. I am so grateful to be so fortunate to explore the world with someone who similarly will cherish those memories. Why stopping now? After all, tomorrow is another day...
posted by Rob and Anna @ 12:11 PM
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