Thursday, March 30, 2006

Mexico City, Mexico

Anna's entry:

We were very pleasantly surprised by Mexico City! We have heard horror stories about the city with 20 millions people, but for us, except for a pair of Rob's stolen glasses by a pick-pocket in the metro, the city turned out an excellent stop. The city has tons of neighborhoods, similar to San Francisco or Seattle. Very modern, lots of excellent museums, parks, squares, fountains, etc. A lot of museums are free on Sundays, and we took advantage of that. We visited Place of Bella Artes with excellent murals by Diego Rivera, National Palace of Fine Arts with an over-whelming collection of classical art (mostly focused on religious topics as a lot of them are), and Diego River museum. In addition, we visited an exhibition of Rodin's sculptures displayed as an open air collection, which I truly enjoyed - such powerful and emotional lines, and so much passion in the work! And, of course, we visited the famous Frida Kahlo museum, also referred to as a "blue house" - due to the color she painted it in believes it would keep the bad spirits away. The museum had Frida's collection of paints, as well as it preserves the furniture, household items, letters and photographs. It also has a wheel-chars, in which Frida Kahlo spent a lot of her time while painting, lots of corsets that were used by her to help her with pain in her spinal cord after the horrible accident, and her death mask. That probably was my favourite museum - and I must admit that after visiting her place, I think that the movie Frida has been put together extremely well.
We also spent a lot of hours walking in different neighborhoods, some of them reminded us of Capitol Hill or Queen Anne in Seattle. We also stayed with a local family for a couple of days in their apartment in the writers-artists neighborhood, and it was also a nice addition for us, and helped us to learn more about the city, and current trends and attitudes. Rob had his B-Day in Mexico City as well, and we went to the Mexican Wrestling show. We have a special story about this, so I am not going into too many details at this time.
Over all, a very good impression about the city. But, we must admit that we could notice some corruption here too - for one, the traffic police will let drivers get away with pretty much any road violation as long as they (the police) are rewarded for it, so as you can imagine crossing streets here is a challenge. However, the metro is excellent, and I hear it is the cheapest in the world - only 20 cents for any ride, any line. So, as long as you keep an eye on your purse and pockets during the rush hour, you would be OK. I cold write a lot more about the city, but I think to truly appreciate it, one needs to visit. I am glad I did.


PHOTOS will be added soon.

Tuesday, March 28, 2006

Cuernavaca, Mexico

Anna´ entry:

We stayed with a local family for a few days, who took an excellent care of us. Their house is located up in the mountains, in the pine forest, and we spent most of the time there. We decided to skip all the touristy staff, and just stay in. We really needed it - after weeks of covering miles in Central America, this rest stop was truly enjoyable. I had a nice connection with a head of the family - we shared lots of stories about our families, background, and coincidentally, her sister-in-law happens to be from Russia as well, so she knew my culture very well. She is an excellent cook, and it was a pleasure watching her make all the home-made food, and of course, eating it was a treat as well. They have two big dogs, that were rescued a couple of years ago, and it was fun watching them play all the time. Also, we were invited by another family to visit for a Mexican version of domino, and we stayed playing until midnight, and then the next day visited another family living next door. The other couple also has an international marriage - Dutch-Mexican, and it was interesting for us to hear their version of interpretation of what modern Mexico is about. Our stay in Cuernavaca was a truly home stay, and I am really glad we had a chance to experience it.

Friday, March 17, 2006

Palenque, Mexico

Anna´s entry:

The ancient city of Palenque sits like a king on a throne of jungle where plains meet mountains. Far more excavated than Tikal, it offers a different experience than most Mayan sites; and unlike other sites, nearly all temples can be climbed (my knees are all beat after all this climbing). In addition, there are a lot of open spaces and tombs inside of the buildings, and it definitely provides a different type of experience to see the temples, palaces, and sacrificial vaults from inside, it is simply awe aspiring. Palenque was first occupied around 100BC, and its prime time was around AD 600-700. As many other Mayan civilization sites, it was abandoned (which still offers a mystery of disappearance), and sat hidden by jungle for centuries. In 1773, after hearing stories about stone palaces in the jungle from Mayan hunters, a Spanish priest led a trip there. Others followed, excavations began. Up till today, the archaeologists are still excavating, and unveiling a few more mysteries about the Maya.







Border Crossing at Bethel, Guatemala

Anna´s entry:

We made it through another border, and are back in Mexico! I must say however, that our crossing the Guatemalan border (in Bethel) on the way to Mexico, yet one more time confirmed why we didn´t care a whole lot for Guatemala... When we took a ride to the border, apparently the immigration officer and the driver had a deal figured out between each other - when he gets people to the border, the so called ¨departure tax¨ is raised, and the profit goes in the pocket of an immigration officer and the driver... How do I know this? Well, I coincidentally witnessed it... First of all I was surprised, why that particular border had a higher departure tax (since we already crossed the border a few months ago)? Then, I had to use el bano in the immigration office, and apparently they did not know I was inside. When I walked out, I saw a bunch of money being given discretely to the driver from the pool of money paid by the travelers in our van. I asked the official why we were charged a higher price, he looked somewhat disappointed that I saw what happened, tried to tell me some stupid lie, but I knew I had no chance to win the battle, and left. So, there it was our last day in Central America, and yet another proof how corrupted the country of Guatemala is... I am glad I was just an outsider there, and I sympathise with the honest hard working people of Guatemala who have to take this s..t on every day basis.

Tikal, Guatemala

Anna´s entry:

After a short stop over in Guatemala City and Coban, we were on our way to ruins of Tikal. The journey there was a typical ally-ally (hurry-hurry-yelled-by-a-bus-driver), though it wasn´t as intense as buses in Nicaragua. I must add that luckily we did not loose our luggage from the top of the van, because the driver forgot to tie it up... Two local guys who were sharing a ride with us, noticed that my backpack was half hanging off the roof, and it got caught. Then, about 20 minutes later, the same guys began yelling at the driver to stop, because they have noticed Rob´s backpack falling on the road behind us - if they did not see it, we would have lost it. It got damaged all right, but at least we have it back...

Anyway, we made it to Santa Elena, from where we took a ride to the ruins of Tikal. It was a very nice cultural experience. Imagine towering pyramids poking above the jungle´s green canopy, howler monkeys swinging through the brunches of ancient trees, brightly colored parrots darting from perch to perch, and tree frogs buzzing on the background. Maya settled here around 700 BC, and began building ceremonial structures. Around that time a powerful king named Moon Double King ascended Tikal´s throne and restored its military strength and primacy as the Mayan world´s most resplendent city. Tikal´s greatness waned around 900, part of the mysterious general collapse of lowland Mayan civilization. It felt daunting walking around these former plazas, acropolis, and climbing tall temples. Views from the top of the temples were awesome! More escavations are still taking place by archaeologists of Tikal, and more history is still being discovered at the moment about a mysterious Mayan world...





Thursday, March 16, 2006

My View - Puerto Viejo (Costa Rica) to Corcovado (CR), via Panama [Rob´s entry (#7)]

Standard disclaimer: Anna does an excellent job covering the positive aspects of our trip, and I try to fill the 'other side'.

A NOTE ON THE POSTED PHOTOS- To my surprise, the photos Anna has been recently selecting didn´t seem to be anywhere near the best. She tells me that she plans to submit some of the better ones for publication, and doesn´t want to post them (for now at least). So unfortunately, her posted photos will be OK, but far from the ones I liked best.

Also, sorry for the long lapse in travel reporting....


PUERTO VIEJO (Costa Rica)
In an effort not to delay this posting more, I´ll complete this section with my next submission.


PANAMA CITY (Panama)
I think it is appropriate to add to Anna´s synopsis of the city. The modern cosmopolitan region referred to seemed to be the financial district where we were staying, and presumably the modern skyscrapers also fall into this category. There were many other areas that were typical Central America, and others that were huge slums. Some of these slums were a bit of a shock to me, they looked pretty bombed out. Panama City (PC) was great for really cheap food, cheap telephone calling, and a variety of services. Our trip to Isla Tobaga was a bit of a ream-out however, our returned was hastened by boat scheduling and our hiking and other activities were cut short.
There was one minor slightly interesting experience in PC. Many of the city buses are very elaborately decorated with all sorts of murals painted on all sides, chrome accessories, musical/novelty horns, "dual" exhaust pipe extensions, neon/argon/krypton/etc. lighting, BIG sound systems, strobes, shark fins, spoilers, etc., etc. You get the idea. Also keep in mind that these were originally old US school buses (remember the dull, yellow/orange beasts?). The drivers of these privately owned buses seem to take great pride in them, and also seem to like to ´race´ them on occasion (either that or they are hustling ahead of the other buses to collect paying passengers). Such was the experience one evening returning back to our hostel. It was an unusual experience, dark interior (except for the neon and strobe lighting), music blaring, horn blasting, as we sped past, weaving around/behind other big buses, passenger vehicles, pedestrians, etc. It was quite fun, and a nice way to end the day (for $0.25 each). There was also the occasional drag race when a straight open stretch of road was available. In short, absolutely nothing like a Seattle Metro bus ride.

DRIVING
This brings me to a comment on the drivers observed here in CA. As far a obeying normal traffic laws such as staying in your own lane (when lanes are even marked), stopping for stop signs, remaining stopped during a red light, turning from ANY lane, speeding, weaving, passing on hills, curves, and yes, even oncoming traffic (they are experts at making three lanes out of two), the drivers are absolutely horrible. ON THE OTHER HAND, the fact that they do all this with seemingly minimal mishaps leads me to the conclusion that they are very good drivers. In other words, as far as laws and good judgment is concerned, they are horrible drivers. As for skill, they seem to be talented experts. Whatever works for them, just think twice about driving here yourself!! They seem to have a method to the madness beyond my comprehension.

EL VALLEY (Pan)
Or next stop was El Valley. All I´ll say beyond Anna´s entry is that we did some serious hiking up to the top of the volcano rim, and we met the friendliness people of the trip. Many people greeted us (first), and no one tried to hustle us. A very welcome departure to much of the trip.
One additional note on Panama- I think I can confidently state that I do not like salsa music (and especially not LOUD salsa music), based on the many hours of captive listening on Panama buses.

PERCEPTIONS OF RURAL CENTRAL AMERICAN ATTITUDES
Anna covered the rest of the Panama activities (hot springs, etc.), then it was back to Costa Rica. Again, covering some of the negative aspects of the trip, we found ourselves in a couple of smaller towns near the (spectacular) Park Corcovado. Speaking with another traveler and describing some of our less pleasant moments with the locals, he used the term ´coolness´. That was exactly the term I´ve been looking for on this trip. Without question, we have definitely met some honest/sincere, friendly, helpful locals on this trip, but overall, many of the interactions are what I´d describe as ´cool´. They answer a question, but it often isn´t too helpful (of course our limited Spanish may have something to do with that conclusion). They exchange a greeting, but it seems to lack pleasure, etc. It is difficult to explain exactly, other than ´cool´.
Anna and I have tried to make some sense of this situation, note trends, etc. We have come to the conclusion that most of the problems/clashes tends to be in more rural areas and involve older women. We had a couple of such incidents in the two villages near the park. Both involved a reluctance to give us any water with our meals, though water freely flowed to others. Possibly giving the benefit of the doubt, I speculated that they may have the assumption that foreigners won´t drink the local water, and therefore wouldn´t provide any. We were assured by the French lady we stayed with that the water was OK, and that the restaurant lady would be happy to give us cold water if we ate dinner there. However, Anna had to ask (fight) repeatedly and forcefully to get water from her. Another place to eat served everyone water but us, but at this point, we were tired of the hassle and let it go. All very strange, and as mentioned in an earlier entry, tends to wear us down and has a demoralizing effect. So interesting, we found parts of rural Costa Rica to have some of the same unpleasant issues as other parts of CA.

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

Apaneca, El Salvador

Anna's entry -

Apaneca is located in the mountains, and is considered to be the highest town point in El Salvador. It is a small, easy going town, with welcoming people. When we arrived, the only two hostels there were closed down. We were wandering around trying to find another place to stay, and one of the locals on a bike noticed us. He approached us, and told us he could take us to a local family that could offer us hospedaje - place to stay. At first we were a little skeptical to follow him - after Nicaragua especially, where we constantly got hustled - but we decided to give it a try, and he definitely was right! First of all, the place he brought us to was gorgeous, and it was only $15 a night. It was actually a huge house where the family lived, and had a beautiful traditional Spanish look, along with a kitchen and great security. We wanted to offer a little tip to the guy with a bike for helping us out, but he absolutely refused, pointing out to his heart - meaning it was a sincere gesture, and no reward was necessary. Wow - how different it is compared to the attitude in Nicaragua, Guatemala, or even Mexico! We enjoyed Apaneca very much - it was peaceful there, and this was exactly what we needed after San Salvador. We took a walk up to the mountains, trying to find a couple of lagoons described in the Lonely Planet book, but found only one. However, the views from the top of the mountains were excellent, so it was definitely worth the walk. Also, during one of our night stays in that casa, the lady of the family had her friends for a visit, and they had some kind of religious-sacrificial-not-so-sure-what-exactly-moaning, so that was spooky, but interesting. We could not see them, but could hear all that moaning coming from upstairs, pretty sure it was something religious though. The friends of the lady left smiling, and afterwards she informed me that she was just getting ready for church, so I guess it was just the introduction of a deeply believing soul, or something like that... A little different... Over all, a very good impression about Aponeca - people were very sweet, and absolutely not jaded by tourists, which was refreshing for us to see.

El Salvador is probably our favourite country in terms of people and their attitude. The country does not have the nature and excitement that Costa Rica and Panama offer, however, people definitely seem to be the most genuine and friendly we have encountered so far. Definitely glad we decided to add El Salvador to our journey.

Our next goal is to reach ruins of Tikal, and prior to that, we will make a few stops in Guatemala.

Monday, March 13, 2006

My View - Poverty [Rob´s entry (#6)]

This entry is a radical departure from the usual concrete factual reporting of our travels, but rather, I´ve been compelled to share some of my observations and subsequent analysis/conclusions regarding the sometimes harsh living conditions observed in this part of the world. It isn´t my intention to be preachy, promote an agenda, rationalize our actions/beliefs, cast blame, or pass judgment, but rather make some sense of the undeniable gap between the "haves" and "have-nots".

While traveling through Central America, particularly the rural parts (but some urban as well), one can not help be struck by the poverty that is witnessed. Such sights have prompted a lot of introspection and analysis, the thoughts I´ll share in this entry. Naturally, I come from an industrialized nation, and the contrast is sometimes harsh. I`m also aware that I view things with an egocentric as well as ethnocentric bias, but do my best to analyze things as objectively as possible (in other words, I cannot help view things from my and my culture’s own perspective, but am aware of that bias and try to avoid it as much as possible).

BACKGROUND

As background on ourselves, my wife came from a poor country, and though I did not come from a poor family, was raised poor (by western standards). Examples of our "poor-ness" were that my wife`s family sometimes borrowed money to buy food, and my room at my parents house lacked heating (my room was a converted back porch, snow tracked in did not melt, and my breath would freeze on the blankets in the winter). However, I do not remember being unhappy about where I lived, neither does my wife. Quite the contrary, my wife´s family was very happy, and she has many good memories.
One of my life goals was to utilize my advanced degree in the area of environmentally/ecologically sustainable development, and I sometimes imagine myself working in these areas we are traveling in. It is these very places where I may have ended up doing a two-year peace corp term, etc.
Coincidentally, I recently something heard on Radio Netherlands when a woman was asked about poverty in Holland. Her reply was "I`ve been to Gabon and seen what poverty is. There, you can make a child happy with a ball. Here in the Netherlands, it takes an X-Box. We have no poverty here."

CENTRAL AMERICA SPECIFIC OBSERVATIONS

Fortunately, we have not witnessed abject poverty on this trip- conditions of bloated stomachs as a person slowly dies of starvation. Though often on the thin side, fortunately it seems that the people we encounter are not in those dire circumstances. One indicator I use is the situation of homeless dogs. I would think that if people were starving, dogs would eventually disappear. I know westerners look at all the cows in India as foolish, but fail to understand that the animals are worth more alive doing work, providing milk, etc. than a pile of steaks. However, I can´t see dogs serving in that role, and I think if people were really, REALLY hungry, dogs would be gone. Some volunteers met recently in Guatemala (also very poor) confirmed my analysis as valid and agreed with the conclusion (and also confirmed that though poor, they have heard of very little starvation).

Regarding housing, some of the living structures witnessed are shocking (to my western eyes). Pieces of wood and corrugated sheet metal patched together to make a structure we in the US wouldn´t house a farm animal in. I´ve also witnessed many stark homes with a hammock- often being used (I can testify that after logging a few hours in one myself, there are worse ways to spend time!). And of course, there is the "universal pacifier"- even the most basic homes seem to have televisions.

ANALYSIS

I frequently associate the notions of "poor" with "unhappy". This trip has led me to re-evaluate that correlation. In the west, we often associate where one lives with affluence, socioeconomic status, education, etc. Very bluntly, the somewhat offensive term "trailer trash" imparts notions of poor, ignorant, miserable, uneducated, "untouchable" people (using an Indian Caste reference, though the untouchables were viewed much lower than mobile home residents), or at the very least, prime Springer guests. Understand that the typical mobile home would be a Bel Air mansion to many of the rural homes here. But is would be a very grave error to view the residents here in these extrapolated terms. I´m afraid that less informed Westerners do make that assessment however, or at least get stuck on the notion of "How can they live that way?". This lead me to examine how one lives (their home) relates, if at all, to much of anything- including poverty (and happiness).
For myself personally, and associating where/how one lives with poor-ness and happiness, I`ve had some of the best times of my life while living in a tent during my bicycle trips in Europe. Certainly a nylon home is "poor" compared to modern housing in the west, but it didn´t feel "poor". Regarding size and cost, my tent ´home´ was much smaller and less costly than even the most basic dwelling observed here. On this trip, we technically are both unemployed and homeless (and happy for the most part). Of course I recognize the obvious difference between being barefoot out of choice and from not having shoes and realize that our situational comparison is imperfect, if not flawed, but hopefully provides one data point for reference.

However, I reflect to a time when the Native Americans inhabited my home state in the Midwest, their housing was an animal skin and the winters were very brutal (far more exposure than my room). Other than the invasion of Europeans and the time since, I don´t think of Native Americans as unhappy. Rather, I think of people going about their business and living their lives, much the same as I observe here.

My wife`s mother spoke of walking in the snow bare-footed in the St. Petersburg winters. In life, she was anything but unhappy or bitter, but instead embraced life, and was a kind and deep woman. In fact, I´ve often thought that her hardships added to her character, kindness, generosity, etc. Making a comparison with the ´rich world´, even if she would have ever owned an automobile, I could never imagine road rage crossing her mind.

Then I think of the opposite of "poor". Reflecting to the Radio Netherlands quote cited earlier, though not nearly so eloquent are my observations of children in the US. They have so much, and yet, many seem so miserable. This seems in such contrast to the children I seen in the Central American countryside where they seem elated to be splashing around with their friends at a water-hole or river. "Poor"? Maybe by our standards. Unhappy? They don´t seem so. It is possible that some of the poorest children observed here may well go to bed hungry, which would likely be a different story however.

CONCLUSIONS
So what is it that makes people happy at home? Is it the house itself? My conclusion is that the house has little to do with it, but rather a loving, stable, and supportive family structure and a meaningful/productive life seem better ingredients. This is what my wife had, in addition to her families economic struggles. I realize that this is a very long route to something fairly obvious, but I wanted to share the thought processes.
Beyond housing (one of the few readily observable data points), there is the usual crass commercialism that in constantly on the television, movies, and other media (yes, even here). The notion that everyone should strive to be pretty, well dressed, and equipped with all the necessary material trappings of a big house, cars, etc. seems evident. I think the material wealth portrayed in the media, and that many experience in the developed world are well beyond the means of many of the people I´ve seen in the region. It saddens me if they have bought in to this bill of goods that they need these things to be happy- chasing/wanting some unobtainable illusion, and feeling inadequate, lacking, missing out, and unfulfilled about a myth created and perpetuated by those gaining benefit.

So I wonder what the aide and development workers are focusing on here. Is it to get busy making money to buy things, not to be "poor"? I so much hope not. I hope that instead they promote taking care of one another, education, and preserving the environment that sustains them. Finally, I´ve thought about what our responsibility is in all this. We are very careful about where we spend our money. For example, we don´t patronize wealthy multinational establishments. We stay in small locally owned places and eat from similar (often from the street with a set of pots and plates). We don´t buy products that exploit the environment/wildlife, use local transport, etc. One exception is the odd Coke/Pepsi (which is virtually unavoidable, but even there we try to buy locally produced beverages). Overall, we believe that the money spent goes to their local economy. Personally, my priority is environmental protection, and prefer to make charitable contributions to such causes rather than the human condition- because without a home (physical environment), a human population can´t be supported or sustained. Furthermore, I’ve (nor anyone in my family for that matter) never voted for any of the political leaders that have helped mess this region up.


I assume that if you have read this far, you either have an interest in the subject/my views or have an opinion regarding some aspect of the material covered. Please feel free to post any comments you may have, or to set me straight if needed. I´ve given a lot of thought and struggled to make some sense about what I´ve seen, and sincerely welcome any constructive input.

Wednesday, March 08, 2006

San Salvador, El Salvador

Anna´s entry-

San Salvador - just a stop on the way, so a very short entry. As expected from a bigger city, lots of pollution, grand markets, crazy traffic, etc. However, yet again in El Salvador, the locals are a real gem - would wave to us, talk to us, etc. Except for the bus driver, who took us in the middle of nowhere, but nothing new here - if you read our blog about Nicaragua, bus drivers seem to be the ones to watch out for. We did visited a few landmarks as well. One of them the Iglesia el Rosario seemed to be a converted airline hangar, and in fact one of more interesting churches in the country. We also, decided to steer away from our usual eateries on the street, and splurged for greasy western food - we finally were able to get a pretty good pizza! What a treat it was for a change! By the way, if you want to loose weight without dieting, join us on the backpacking trip. Rob lost more then 25 lbs, and myself about 15 - I probably gained a few back however, after that tasty pizza. Well, that´s about it about San Salvador, we are heading up north to the mountains, to a town called Apaneca.

Perquin, El Salvador - updated with PHOTOS

















Anna´s entry:

I must admit that El Salvador was not initially a country planned for out trip, however, since we decided to skip COrn Islands, Nicaragua, it quickly became a substitute. El Salvador brought a very different experience for us. First of all, the country has not luckily been over-run by tourists yet, and locals have been very friendly and hospitable with us. This is I think the first country that we felt more tranquil - without being hustled or sold something. We are also glad that we took Spanish classes in Guatemala, we have been using it every day, and the majority of population do not speak English. Our first stop in El Salvador is a town up in the mountains called La Perquin. If you have an in interest in history, you may have heard about this town. Perquin was the headquarters of the guerrilla war in 1980s conflict. Leftover bunkers and bomb craters remain the evidence of the former guerrilla presence, and a war museum in Perquin is a sobering reminder of what atrocities befell fighters and families alike. We visited the museum there with photos, posters, weapons and histories of those who died in action. It was very sad to read and see the stories about atrocities of war, with innocent children falling victims... I think I could relate more to those stories, as my home country Russia also undergone a very tragic past, and lots of similar parallels could be found... We also took a hike up the mountain called Cerro de Perquin - really beautiful nature, and very sad war history again - we took some photos of both.

We felt enriched after our stay in Perquin - we seemed to be the only foreign guests of the town, and it was refreshing for a change. So far, a very good impression of the locals, and we are very glad we decided to experience El Salvador.

Choluteca, Honduras

Anna´s entry-

A little town of Choluteca, Honduras turned out to be something unexpected - well, actually, the part that happened at 1 a.m. Before I go into details, I would like to complement this small town on how friendly and welcoming people were to us. This is yet another proof for us, that to get a genuine sincerity and hospitality of locals, we had to get out of the touristy path, and find it on the outskirts of the country. What a refreshing feeling it was. We had to take a break for one night between multiple border crossings, so we picked this place just because of the location, little we knew what would happen there...

In the middle of the night, we heard loud nock on our door at a hotel we were staying at, and then we smelt something burning in the air. Still half asleep half awake, I pulled the curtain on our window, and saw HUGE flames of fire above the building ahead of us. The fire was very strong and high, so it seemed like it was right at the gate to the hotel... Rob and I grabbed our things, and ran out. Luckily, the fire was not at our building, it was right across the street, where the entire block was in flames. There was a market on the other side of the street, with lots of businesses connected as one long building, and this was where the fire was happening. We sat down on the street bewildered and puzzled with what was going on. Two fire trucks apparently did not have enough water, people were running in and out of tiendas - stores - grabbing and saving whatever they could, the whole street was filled up with locals and the military, fire started on the other block, crazy! Luckily, we were nowhere in danger, the flames were close to our hotel, but had no chance on spreading there. Finally, another fire truck with water supply arrived, and they began slowly extinguishing the fire. The next morning, pieces of burnt materials were still circulating in the air, and the whole event seemed almost surreal. Military were guarding the burnt stores, to make sure no vandalism would occur, and everything seemed to be under control. We took a bus to Salvadorian border, and shared the story with some locals on the bus.

By the way, yet again, locals were very friendly, shook our hands, smiled, wanted to talk to us, and made us feel so good - little towns in Honduras are the way to go if you want to experience a sincere hospitality and friendly attitude.











Masaya, Nicaragua

Anna´s entry -

This entry is going to be dedicated to people of Nicaragua. Nicaragua for me has been an emotionally the most difficult country to comprehend and accept. I truly enjoyed the nature, however, I changed evaluation of people several times in my mind - from hating ever being there to being very proud to have an opportunity to experience it. If you read our blog about Isla de Omepte earlier, you probably remember the direct discrimination we experienced there, as well as constantly being hustled on the streets. As Rob puts it - now I have an idea what it must feel like for celebrities constantly being followed, and not being able to have any privacy for their own lives. I have felt on several occasions very disappointed with Nicaraguans, and could not wait to leave. Our trip from the border with Costa Rica-Nicaragua to Masaya, Nicaragua has changed all of it, and made me feel very differently about Nicaraguans, and I am really glad it did...

This is what happened. First of all, as soon as we crossed the border, we began being hustled again. We had to take a bus to Managua, and as soon as approached the bus, we automatically were quoted a different price then anyone else would pay (because we are gringos - that already sounds familiar). When we were on the bus, we got over-charged again, and putting a fight did not help. Then, while going too fast on the highway, the bus got a shaft broken, and we got stranded (luckily no one got hurt). We changed a bus, but it would not take us where we needed to go, and we got kicked off at a highway in hopes for another bus. This is the part that made me hate everything about Nicaragua.

This is a part that would change my opinion. As soon as we got on a bus, and were over-charged again by a conductor, one lady sitting behind me noticed I was upset. She asked me to tell her what happened, which I did. And, this is what happened afterwards... She talked to a couple of other passengers, and they decided to stand up for me and make things right. The lady organized the whole protest on my behalf, she told the conductor how inappropriate to treat strangers like that, and made him explain his action, and give me back the money. She also reached for her own pocket, and offered me to take her money - which of course I did not - she really wanted to make sure that I feel better about Nicaragua. That just broke my heart, I know how hard she must be working, and how little she may be earnig in return, and yet there she was, offering me her own donation so I feel better. How incredible it was after all the mistreatment we got! In addition, three other local guys joint her support group, and were watching over us the entire trip. Apparently, the bus was not going to the destination it was supposed to - it actually worked better for Rob and me, but it made several other backpackers mad - as they were told a lie regarding the bus destination, so that bus could make some profit on them. One of the gringos decided to jump of the bus while the bus was moving, and it was turning absolutely insane. At that point, my support group of locals were rallying for us loud and clear, and bus driver and conductor were sorry they ever tried to take advantage of us. Despite of all the lies from the bus conductor and driver, the trip turned out to be something to remember. That local lady and three guys rallying for us gave me an incredible sense of hope, and made me realize how many wonderful people there are in Nicaragua, who are just there - and sometime it takes a bad situation to come across kindness and generosity...

In addition, when we reached Masaya, we also experienced more genuine sense of hospitality and friendliness, which we have not felt for a long time in Nicaragua. We realized, that probably that attributes to the fact that the town has not been over-run by the tourists, and therefore, locals were sincerely interested in us. Trust me, some of those tourists are not meant to be here. Loud, ignorant, and obnoxious, they may be the main factor for locals start treating us, strangers, as outsiders.

I am really glad we took that detour to Masaya, Nicaragua. That was our last stop in Nicaragua, and it corrected my perception and memories about Nicaraguans. And, the lady who offered me the money on the bus, and who rallied for us with all her heart, wherever you are, THANK YOU! You are the reason, I think about Nicaragua as a truly interesting and rewarding place to visit.

Tuesday, March 07, 2006

La Fortuna & Volcan Arenal, Costa Rica - PHOTO

Anna´s entry:

We stayed in La Fortuna for one night - too touristy for us... However, La Fortuna is the nearest village to the spectacular Volcano Arenal, which we were hoping to visit as one of the highlights of the trip. The volcano was dormant until 1968 when huge explosions triggered lava flows that killed nearly 80 people. It retains its almost perfect conical shape and the degree of activity varied from week to week. We decided to take a night ride to the volcano view point, in hopes that the night would not be as cloudy, and we could have a chance to see a volcano show. Even though the volcano was only 3 km away, it still seemed pretty far away, so we had to stare really intensely, however, we got lucky, and could observe red-hot lava flowing, and incandescent rocks flying through the air. Rob took some great photos, which we are hoping to publish soon.

After La Fortuna, we head back to Liberia, after which we are returning to Nicaragua for a few days. As you probably read in our blog, we are currently, heading back North.

San Jose, Costa Rica - updated with PHOTOS















Anna´s entry:

We got back to San Jose after San Isidro stop and before heading out further, and stayed again with a local family, which we wrote about a while back. Carmen has become such a Costa Rican mom for us. Actually, when we got back to San Jose, she herself was in Panama, so she left us the keys to her house, and told us to make it our home. We´ve been so touched by that - can you imagine giving a key to our own house to almost strangers? Staying with Carmen´s family in San Jose has definitely been the most fond memory for me. In many ways Carmen reminds me my own mom, who passed away about 6 years ago... Always kind, generous, making sure we are taken care of, and safe... Carmen introduced us us again to her friends and family members, and asked us to come back again some day, so we could visit and stay with all of them.

Generally, we found people in big cities of Costa Rica be very friendly, helpful, and open to outsiders. In our experience, people in small towns seemed opposite - Rob and I sometimes experienced discrimination being gringos - which we did not feel at all in big cities, such as San Jose, David, or San Isidro.