Sunday, August 25, 2024

Cyprus - from top to bottom

Anna's entry:

What do Saint Lazarus, Aphrodite, Alexander the Great, Shakespeare, Richard the Lion Heart and Knights of Templar have in common?  Cyprus!  Yes, this unique island in the Mediterranean waters and the closest neighbour to the Middle East region has seen it all...  A plethora of ancient and modern history would stimulate and intrigue the most jaded historical minds - from undefeated warriors to miraculously resurrected saints, from powerful crusaders to classical writers...   And, for all those romantic souls - according to Greek mythology, Cyprus is regarded as the birthplace of Aphrodite - the Goddess of Love and Beauty...  Intrigued?  So was I, plus it is a kind of destination that people may have heard of, but are absolutely clueless what Cyprus is really like.  Exploring Cyprus was also a logical destination to add to continue our journey after Egypt, and thus there was born a plan - we will be heading to beautiful Cyprus to explore it from top to bottom, and trying to include as many regions as possible in our own quest...

 

 

CYPRUS - Part I

Larnaka

We have arrived in Larnaca after a night flight from Cairo.  We loved our journey in fascinating Egypt, but after thirty days of intensity (and sometimes - insanity), we were ready for a bit more peace and tranquility.  I have also chosen to explore Cyprus during off-season when we could get to know Cyprus and its local residents without tourist crowds and in a more pristine uncorrupted setting.  

We hopped on a local bus from the Larnaca International Airport, and in about thirty minutes reached the area of our accommodation.  Our place, located right across from a medieval church, was peaceful and comfortable with a mandarin orange tree growing right under our windows.  The very next morning we were pleasantly surprised when a lady-worker knocked on our door and brought us a bowl of freshly cooked and seriously tasty samosas.  We were located in a real residential neighborhood and within an easy walk to a large and incredibly stocked supermarket - fantastic and inexpensive cheeses, wine, humus, dips, breads, etc.  We stocked up on all those delicious supplies, and on the way back to our place we also picked up fresh lemons and oranges from unceremoniously growing fruit trees along the neighbourhood streets.  

We explored the ocean promenade and the beach, hiked to a huge lake with migrating flamingos, walked around Larnaca's old town with narrow lanes and cobblestone squares adjacent to ancient mosques and churches.  One of such edifices was a 9th century church built over and dedicated to Saint Lazarus - who (according to a biblical gospel) was raised from the dead by Jesus himself. After all, Cyprus lies within a reachable distance from Jordan (and specifically - Bethany), so no surprise that due to its geographic location, many high profile figures (including Alexander the Great) made their way here one time or another.

Larnaca was our starting point to explore Cyprus, and the start of a diverse journey with so many unexpected encounters to follow...





 
 
 
 
 
Limasol
 
Those who refer to Limasol as "a playground for the rich'' - clearly did not spend enough time to explore this engaging city.  Sure - you could observe super expensive yachts in parts of the extensive harbour, fur coats boutique stores in certain areas adjacent to villas, and sturgeon caviar cafes, but those are only a small part of Limasol's diverse culture.  The spirit of the city exceeds way beyond these simple stereotypes.  
 
First of all, Limasol is diverse ethnically and culturally.  It is evident just by walking around the city - various groups of people from many corners of the world make Limasol their home.  Mosques, churches, avant-garde sculptures, provocative murals, traditional markets, parks, squares, boardwalks, and even ethnically diverse supermarkets reflect the vibrant nature of this city.  It is also located on the great historical trail - when we were taking our public bus from Larnaca to Limasol, the presence of Roman ruins and crusaders' settlements were evident all over beautiful rolling green hills and valleys.  Honestly - when our bus was taking the spiral route around the pristine hills with ancient remnants coated in vast blue sky and lacy clouds, it just felt like we went back in time - I could totally see the appeal to the previous conquerors to make the island of Cyprus their new kingdom.  
 
Limasol is also surrounded by major historical and legendary marks - Ancient Kourion, and if you continue further west towards Paphos - what Greek mythology defines as THE place of birth of Aphrodite.  You can't go more pompous than that - after all, Aphrodite was the Goddess of Beauty and Love, so you can imagine the gorgeous surroundings that Cyprus is so famous for.
 
What also contributed to our pleasant visit ti Limasol was the place we stayed at.  This time I chose for us a hostel - we had our own private room with a balcony, and the entire premises were incredibly homey and well taken care of.  It really felt like home with lots of cozy spaces to enjoy a tranquil time, a small terrace overlooking a residential street, fully equipped kitchen with a dining area, and even a great espresso machine with various coffee capsules you could enjoy any time of the day.  Even the neighbour in the building who lived downstairs - a lovely elderly gentleman who barely spoke any English was super helpful and cordial.  We felt very welcome anywhere we went, and we even discovered an incredible store offering hundreds of free samples to try of various nuts, chocolates, middle eastern treats, spicy snacks, fruits, honeys - it all added to our cultural experience (and a bit extra to our body weight after we tried everything offered to us at the store).   
 
We explored a vast waterfront trail and boardwalk built alongside (and sometimes right over) the ocean.  Because we were traveling in late winter-early spring, there were almost no tourists in sight, so we really had a peaceful and laid-back experience.  It still was a bit chilly at times, but so much worth it - in our experience, the beauty and hospitality of a place always shines when traveling during off-season, and we try to apply that approach when it is possible.
 

 





 

 




NORTH CYPRUS

North Nicosia (Lefkoşa)

There are two major and quite different parts to Cyprus - South and North, and their history and political division is quite complicated.  They also happen to be two different countries recognized by some and unrecognized by others.  For centuries Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots lived in relative peace and acceptance of each other - that is until "other" geopolitical powers had to get involved.  Should we humbly suggest the British Empire might have something to do with it?  Agree or not, one thing is undisputed -  the year 1974 changed everything...  As a result of the events in July 1974, the country was thrown into the most dramatic mess and upheaval.  People lost everything - their lives, homes, possessions, dignity... Families got separated by the border, and so did Cyprus itself - a permanent military watch base was established between the South (Republic of Cyprus) and the North (Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus - still unrecognized by many).  Due to the unresolved issues, up till recently it was impossible for tourists to freely move between the South and North, however, currently there are several official border crossings opened up, and both sides of Cyprus are accessible for outsiders.

When we crossed into Lefkosia, it was like stepping back in a time capsule...  It sometimes felt almost surreal - buildings and events froze in time...  While walking around the old town center you could see that only a pile of painted empty barrels and barbed wire between buildings separated two territories, two countries, two different worlds...  Some buildings' facades were covered in vines or tree routes penetrating through the walls or windows.  Many were grand, but completely dilapidated, probably since 1974... We were looking at the history right in front of us...  There was a touch of deep sadness everywhere we looked, and at the same time it felt so surreal - like walking back in time and imagining what had really been happening in all those buildings decades ago before they were left to history right here, under the open sky...

The old city dating back to the 16th century was beautiful and very special - historical ancient market square and mosques, narrow curvy lanes, colorful buildings with melancholic balcony facades...  We settled in for a few days in an old house probably dating back to the 18th century judging by the architectural design style and simplified facilities.  Our large circular room had bayview windows and a small balcony overlooking a residential street.  We could see friendly locals going on with their business - putting their laundry to dry outside the windows or carrying their groceries.  It was very easy and safe walking around the old town, and people were soft-spoken and friendly.  We located a tiny grocery store near the old market, and they had an amazing selection of fresh delicious and inexpensive baklava - the only challenge was catching the time when baklava was delivered.  We also found a tiny shawarma place run by a hospitable local family - the dad and his super helpful young son who loved practicing his English skills and who made sure we had every correct ingredient in our take-out package including the ayran drink to go with their tasty inexpensive shawarmas

It was obvious that North Cyprus will be quite different from the South we came from.  And, we were very open to discover what was laying ahead...






















Kyrenia (Girne)

Kyrenia is a very special place - not only due to the plethora of various dramatic historical events presiding here since the 10th century BC, but also due to its geographical position and natural beauty.  It is frequently mentioned that Kyrenia Harbour is one of the most beautiful harbours in the world.  It is truly pretty, but it is not just the harbour itself - the actual setting is also quite intriguing.  A notorious 16th century castle built by Venetians over the previously owned by Crusaders fortress presides over the harbour with its ancient walls and dark history...  Richard the Lionheart of England, Knights Templar, King of Jerusalem, Venetians, Ottomans. etc. etc.  The Castle also has a well preserved evidence of torture chambers and dungeons where medieval torture techniques were practiced upon its prisoners.  I remember descending along narrow corridors leading to the dingy rooms with graphic historical exhibits and shocking stories about what was happening here centuries ago...  But it is not only the dark side of history that is present among the castle surroundings - there are numerous access points to walk along the towers and fortress walls with sweeping views of the harbour and beautiful scenery and sunsets.

The residential part of the city is widely stretched along the coastal line, and some areas seem to come with a few peculiarities.  For example, the street where our accommodation was located was guarded 24 hours a day with two soldiers at the gate with military equipment.  They were friendly and waved back every time we walked by, but they always had rifles.  I understand the current status of sensitive political affairs in the North, but why in this very neighborhood?  As far as we could see, the area was totally residential, so why were the military personnel present there at all times?  On a humorous note - that military gate checkpoint was located directly across the street with a large liquor store - so their location seemed also quite incongruous.  Oh, well - a part of traveling is also to go with the flow, no pun intended.... 

The city itself felt multicultural - we encountered people from various countries and backgrounds, and it certainly contributed to a good variety of cuisine to choose from.  On one of our walks we stopped by an open air eatery run by a former Palestinian gentleman named Maher.  He was a fascinating person to talk to and he had the kindest heart.  Every time we would visit his restaurant, we were indulged in his wonderful home-like cooking, and he REFUSED to accept the payment for most of the meals!  No matter how much we insisted (and almost forced) him to accept the payment for the food, he always would come up with an excuse to stop us.  We will always remember his cordial smiles, incredible hospitality and the most delicious traditional food and desserts - people like Maher give me hope in humanity, and make all the travels incredibly rewarding!  We feel that we made a truly kind friend, and were so lucky to experience such a genuine caring connection!

 

 

 

  



Kyrenia - Saint Hilarion Castle

This castle was such an incredible and memorable experience that I decided to dedicate a special entry writing about it.

First of all, the location of Saint Hilarion Castle is stunning and whimsical - no wonder there is a belief that this very castle may have been the inspiration for Walt Disney's production.  The top of the castle is located 732 meters (2400 feet) above the sea level, and when you look at it from the coast - it looks completely impenetrable.  As a matter of fact, all you could see from a distance down below are the steep rocky cliffs soaring into the vast skies - the location is truly incredible!​  The castle dates all the way back to the 11th century - imagine the construction​ challenges along the rocky cliffs​ at that time...  And, as it is often the case - the harder it is to reach the place, the more interesting it usually is.

Exploring the castle by ascending from one level to another, and views from the towers via connecting bridges and former royal quarters was captivating.  And, there are so many historical events that have happened here over the centuries...  Byzantines, Lusignans, kings, queens, crusaders, conquerors...  Richard the Lionheart is believed to spend his honeymoon in this very castle.  But, the most moving story about this castle is a tragedy of betrayal and revenge that took place in the late 13th century on the very top of the castle -​ at the Prince John's Tower.  It was so unusual and dramatic to walk around the tower steps and along the bridges while imagining the images that must have haunted queens and kings centuries ago...

There is another reason why this castle became a true adventure for us.​  To get back to Kyrenia there was a perfectly acceptable road for vehicles, but it was off limits to walkers because the road was crossing straight through military posts, and unless you had your own private transport, walking along that road back to the city was out of the question.  Getting to the castle earlier that morning was not a problem - a kind local lady from our accommodation gave us a ride (totally for free) to the castle base from where we started the ascent.  However, to return back was a bit more complicated.  The same lady had confirmed for us that there is actually a trail that will take us from the castle back to the city as long as we time it right and avoid winds and rain storms (i.e. falling rocks).  So, we decided to find that trail for the way back.  Our GPS devices got us started on the cliffs near the castle entry.  And once the trail was found - the decision was made.  We walked (and ​occasionally even crawled backwards) all the way from the top to the sea level!  Yes - over 730 vertical meters descended by walking down thesteep slopes​ trail - all under three hours!  The hardest part was to make our way to the lower part of the cliffs - luckily​ our rocky trail​ did have some markings (and most of the time coinciding with a route in our GPS devices), and it eventually connected us with a road back to Kyrenia.  I remember looking up when we were approaching the bottom of the mountains and looking up - I could not believe all those cliffs we were able to hike down and along...  I also have to mention that I was still dealing with my foot injury, and yet - climbing down the trails surrounded by history and soaring cliffs was so invigorating that even my pain reduced...  There was something about this castle and its ​natural surroundings that even breathing seemed easier, and the fear of heights and steep trailalong the boulders somehow seemed less intimidating.  When we reach​ed the bottom of the trail ​and ​were climbing down the last remaining boulders, we came across two local men that were starting their hike up to the castle's cliffs - they were very encouraging about our route and made sure we knew that the rest of the way would be safe and sound.  I also remember how a group of local (large) friendly dogs were walking us down the street on the outskirts of the city​, mm ​just like our personal body-guards,  ​keeping us safe and making sure no one else would disturb us.  And, just before we crossed over to Kyrenia proper - a watchful statue of Knight Templar was greeting us as if marking ​the closure of our successful safe journey - what a great way to finish that awesome descent.  

There was one more person we wanted to see before we would say good-bye to Kyrenia - that was our local cordial restaurant owner Maher.  And yet again - he prepared us the most delicious traditional Palestinian snacks and categorically refused to accept any payment whatsoever. What a beautiful heart-felt finale to our visit to Kyrenia!  Undoubtedly - so far, Northern Cyprus was turning out to be the main highlight of our entire journey throughout Cyprus.




















Famagusta (Gazimağusa)

In the middle ages, Famagusta was the island's most important port city and a gateway to the Middle East and from there - the Silk Road.  But, the city was founded quite a bit earlier - around 275 BC, right after the end of the Trojan War.  Romans, Egyptians, Persians, Lusignans, Venetians, Ottomans have left their historical impact on the area surrounding this grande city.  Even Shakespeare chose a part of his dramatic play Othello to take place in Cyprus, and later on the British gave to one of the Famagusta's fort towers the name of Othello Tower.  

The city was oozing history and mysterious architecture from all directions, that's for sure...  We were so lucky traveling here off-season - especially in the evenings, when we had the entire city to ourselves except for a few local residents.  We would take a walk along the narrow lanes and arches, it was so peaceful and beautiful - it felt magical...  We stayed right inside the ancient walled city at a place owned by a local family.  Our apartment with a huge roof-top terrace was super comfortable and we were the only guests to enjoy the peace and tranquility.  The owners treated us very well - they had a cute small cafe located right under us, and the family would offer us home-made lemon cakes and fresh coffee.  One afternoon, there was a local band playing beautiful and sensual guitar music outside the cafe, and I remember dancing on our roof-top terrace surrounded by historical buildings with ocean views in the distance.  We walked all over the old city - and the layers of history were evident anywhere we went.

The food options were limited when we were there, but we ventured out of the walled city to the modern Famagusta.  Along the highway we located a local shawarma place - their attitude was super hospitable, and their shawarmas were tasty and inexpensive.  While waiting for our take-out, we were welcomed by two strong sweet teas and had a delightful chat with a jolly young man.  When he found our that we had recently arrived from our travels in Egypt, he was absolutely excited to hear about our experiences and observations.  Traveling away from home does put in perspective the value of the genuine human connection and hospitality - and makes travels so much more rewarding.

Famagusta was our last stop in Northern Cyprus before returning back to the Southern part of the island.  We absolutely loved our journey in the North - the hospitality in all cities we explored was incredible, and traveling in this part of Cyprus was truly rewarding.  On the day of our departure, the lady owner of our accommodation kindly drove us in her car (for free) to the border from where we walked via a designated cross-check point back to the Southern part of Cyprus - officially a different country.  While driving to the border, we could see abandoned and ghost-like settlements with military designated "off-limits" signs due to the on-going dispute...  Behind a fence we could see that in the past this area had been a farmland with normal looking houses and orchards - except that for now it remains abandoned and frozen in time.  Nobody knows when, if ever, those off-limits ghost towns might actually see families returning back and living in them again...  Not so much unlike other conflicts where normal innocent people pay the highest price for being caught in the middle of a conflict. 


 


















CYPRUS - Part II

Ayia Napa

We walked through the check-point to the other side of the border, and then a bit further - to a local bus stop which would take us to our next destination in South Cyprus.  As we boarded a modern air conditioned bus, we realized - we just stepped back into a modern time.  Returning back to this part of Cyprus was yet another juxtaposition of the North and South.  The buildings and lifestyle were visibly a lot more comfortable and contemporary, and quite frankly - not that exotic compared to the North, except one part - the stunning nature and coastal scenery continued to be gorgeous.

Ayia Napa must be avoided during summer (tourist) months - when hoards of drunk Western visitors completely destroy the beautiful setting this city is so blessed with.  Luckily for us, we were traveling during the off-season, and for the most part had the city and coast to ourselves.  Even the neighbourhood where we stayed had deserted streets along with all obnoxious bars and restaurants completely shut down for the season.  And, that was a huge plus for us - we had the pleasure enjoying a peaceful laid-back Ayia Napa.  Sure, it was a bit more of a challenge to find functioning eateries and supermarkets, but we did find what we needed (and more).  I had us booked a studio with a fully equipped kitchen, so after finding available grocery supplies, we resumed a normal life on the road.  We also got lucky with other treats - just a week prior to our arrival, a brand new fantastic huge bakery opened up, located a short distance from our place.  The selection and quality of their bakery masterpieces was incredible!  It could easily rival the famous French versions.  And, the prices were very reasonable too.  In addition to their yummy sweet treats, this bakery institution also had a good deli with a variety of fresh and hot dishes of several ethnic origins.  A guy working there was an absolute sweetheart, and towards the end of the day he would upsize our take-out orders and would always "modify" prices in our favour.  What a nice way of converting us into their dedicated customers!  Every day, on the way back to our studio, we would stop by and pick up something interesting to enjoy that evening in our peaceful setting.

There was also one very specific type of store that seemed to have never shut down for the winter season - booze outlets.  Mom-and-pop stores, grandma stores, family markets, convenience stores, corner hall-in-the-wall stores - they all stayed open selling every possible spirit you can imagine...  Sometimes we could find (literally) a pile of various liquor bottles thrown casually together forming a small mount - you just dig through that pile and pick up a suitable choice you feel like.  I can only imagine what Ayia Napa would turn into when it is in season - must be a total insanity of drunk Western tourist crowds (I feel sad for the local residents).  Which is too bad - because Ayia Napa is truly a cool place to enjoy in all seasons (booze is really not needed to see that).  It has quirky murals and themed buildings (imagine Yuri Gagarin theme), multi-cultural residential areas, historical sights, beautiful coastal routes and delightful national parks in a stunning coastal setting.
 
My favourite part about Ayia Napa was Cape Greco National Forest.  It was easily accessible by public buses, and yet - the location was totally pristine and peaceful.   It has amazing hiking routes, breathtaking viewpoints, stunning natural formations, and you could spend hours (and days if you choose) exploring it from various points and directions.  And what a beautiful setting it was to finish our journey through the incredible Cyprus...  This was also our last stop-over before we would head back to Larnaca and complete the entire circle. 
 











FINALE - conclusions

Exploring Cyprus, both South and North, was very rewarding.  Despite the dramatic conflict between the two, the soul of the entire island is very much alive and captivating.  Stunning natural beauty, fascinating ancient history, incredible hospitality and true uniqueness of the island's geographic location makes this place very special.  We had arrived in Cyprus right after an unforgettable journey in Egypt, and Cyprus was expected to be quite a bit of a contrast - but, it turned out to be a truly rewarding contrast.  The striking images and history we were so privileged to see and experience, and especially to encounter incredible local hospitality was worth every step of the journey.  This unique island rewarded us with a plethora of memories and experiences, for which we are so very grateful!

Our public bus to the Larnaca International Airport was notoriously late, but we had the most beautiful bus stop location to wait for it - right on the beach, overlooking the ocean...  As our bus was completing its coastal route towards the airport, we had another look at the flamingo lake that we had hiked when we first arrived in Cyprus...  We completed an entire circle, and there was a touch of nostalgia that we were leaving this special island.  However, our trip was not over - from Cyprus we will be flying to Athens, Greece to continue our journey there...


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