Sunday, August 26, 2007

Cycling Germany

Anna's entry:

I absolutely loved cycling in Germany, and especially German people. Prior to crossing the border, I had imagined a different image of the country - I expected people to be pedantic, strict, and somewhat closed to outsiders. This was a total misconception. Quite the contrary, people were overwhelmingly helpful, friendly, easy going and very patient. After a couple weeks of cycling, Germany was becoming my personal favorite.

The country's beauty was apparent. We were cycling through beautiful landscape - from picturesque coastal line to evergreen forests, lakes, rivers, and cobble street towns. I felt so alive and grateful for the experience.

What touched me the most was German people. When we would stop to look at the map, we would almost always have someone stop and offer their assistance. When we would smile at strangers, they would always smile back with a friendly Moin - Howdy. When we would laugh talking to each other, passing strangers would also join laughing. When I tried to speak in my broken German, people would patiently wait for me to find the words. When we would bike though a narrow country road, a tractor driving farmer would go half way in the grass to give us room to pass. There were so many things of that nature friendly Northern Germans were doing, that made me feel so welcome.

One night were were looking for camping, and stopped in front of the posted map to check our route. A lady was walking by and asked if we needed some assistance. When we asked her if there was a camping near by, she replied there wasn't and that we had a choice to either stay in a hotel or in her home. So, there we were complete strangers invited to stay with a local family. We stayed with Monica and her spouse Andrei, were treated to a great candle light supper, a generous breakfast next morning, and most importantly we gained great friends.

On several occasions people would offer to show us the direction to the cycling route, and bike with us all the way to a starting point. One of such interactions lead us to the famous historical Viking route, called Zalzweg.

There is also something to say about Northern Germany driving. Excellent and very patient drivers. They would always stop to give us the right of way and extra space on the road to cycle though. Sometimes, if a driver saw us stop to consult a map, he would also stop, get out of the car and offer us assistance.

We also had a funny episode happened to us. We needed to fill our cooking stove with gas, which in Germany is called benzin. We tried several gas stations, but people working there did not think that they had the right gas for our stove. At one of the filling stations we saw a big group of guys on motorcycles, they were big guys, all dressed in black. We cautiously approached them, and asked if they could speak English. One of them did. We explained that we needed some gas for the stove, but we did not know if the "benzin" will work. So, they grabbed our fuel bottle, and began passing it around to give it a sniff - to determine what kind of gas we had in it. Afterwards, the consensus was that benzin would work, which we filled with at the same spot, and which we are still using.

There was so much kindness and fun interaction that we came across in this part of Germany.

One thing that I wanted to comment on is the war history. Some people in surrounding European countries still feel sensitive about the subject of the WWII and the impact Germany had in Europe during the war. Yes, it is a part of the black history that is hard to overlook. My own Russian family was affected directly by the WWII. My grandfather was killed in a battle, my mom's little borther died during the war, one sister of my grandma went through a consentration camp, and her other sister through a 900-day siege in Leningrad, Russia. These are the facts, HOWEVER, Germany HAS CHANGED. It is in Germany, or at least in the Northern part of it, that I came across the most kindness and friendliness. I know that I will always think of Germany in the most fond way, and I will definitely return back here some day.


Beautiful streets of medieval Leer


Hamburg

Heart-felt welcome to Pattensen, Germany


Another broken spoke and flat tire


I cooked up breakfast at a bus stop while Rob was repairing the wheel


Another flat tire, and it's raining again


Beautiful sea town of Eckeforde


Lubeck from the Viking time


Camping along the old Viking route


Wine...


and cheese...


Market day in Leer


In historic Hamburg

Part V - Northern Germany

Synopsis of the cycling route - Leer, Bremerhaven, Hamburg, Schleswig, Flensburg, Eckernforde, Ostsee/Baltic Sea coastal route, Lubeck, Salzweg route, Elbe route, Bremen, Oldenburg, Bad Zwischenan, Leer.















Holland - Amsterdam, Groningen, Drenthe, North Sea Coast, etc.

Anna's entry:

Did not particularly care for Rotterdam... But the city was interesting enough from the modern architecture point of view. Very easy city to bike in, there is even a tunnel built specially for bikes that goes all the way under the harbor.



Rob with his old friends


On our way from Rotterdam to Amsterdam a cute story happened. We were cycling through a field and stopped to look at a map. A group of sheep stopped in front of us, and began slowly approaching us. We were puzzled about what was going on. Sheep were staring at our bikes first, as if asking us where we were from. Then, one after another they began smelling our bikes, bags, and us. We let them - they were looking at us with their big kind eyes, so how could we resist? Two of them took a special interest in my bike. They began rubbing their noses and heads over my wheel, and they seemed to be really enjoying it. After a few minutes the herd dispersed, and we proceeded with our cycling. The sheep bid us their good bye, and followed us with their eyes until we completely disappeared from their view...


Encounter with curious sheep video


We camped in a very nice place close to Amsterdam. Both Rob and I have been to Amsterdam several times, so we didn't spend that much time here. Actually, Rob lived here some time ago, so it was nice to bike/walk around and share some memories. Unfortunately, when we were in the City it was a pouring rain, so we had to cut our visit short. However, on our way back, we made another visit to Amsterdam, and had a wonderful time. We walked everywhere, visited all the familiar palces, had a cake right on a harbour, wine in park on the Leidsiplei, and of course the all famous fritas at Febo. It was great to finally visit Amsterdam together, which we both have so many memories about...




Beautiful canals of Amsterdam


They do wear wooden shoes!


Bike parking at the Central Station in Amsterdam



Red Light District (RLD)


Am'dam offers fantastic architecture & history


Croningen - this section is dedicated to a very special friend of ours Auke, who we met in Seattle about 10 years ago. We had a pleasure visiting Auke in his home in Slochteren, and were overwhelmed by his outstanding hospitality. Auke one of the kindest and easy going guys we've met, and we felt at home right away. On our way back from Germany we stopped to see him again, and it was like returning home. Auke took us everywhere, and we learnt so much about Holland and its people. His house is also built right in front of the historical mill, so the location was really cool! He has a beautiful garden and Frisian chickens, that are so cute. We talked a lot, laughed a lot, and it was so nice to spend time here. Auke also had a Birthday when we were visiting, so we got to meet his family and numerous friends. Auke - if you are reading this, please know that we would always remember our visit.


Our friend's home is behind this historic mill


Auke with his pet chickens


Cheers!


Nothing like a good camp fire


Our touring bikes on an easy day







A different kind of entry entry - A not-so-happy Holland?

Note for our good friend in Slochteren. Auke - if you read this, sorry for being so harsh about the Dutch, this does not apply to you or your family in any kind - you have treated us in the most pleasant, caring, kind, and friendly manner, and we feel so fondly about our visit! But, comments below are my observations, and I have to stay true to them.

This part of the blog is the most challenging for me to write, actually I had to re-write it a couple of times. Holland has been the most controversial country for me during our cycling. On one hand, the beauty of the country is absolutely stunning - from coastal dunes to forests, from medieval cities to modern engineering miracles, from white sand beaches to romantic canals. Natural beauty is the part I fell in love with. On the other hand, I was disappointed with Dutch people. To put it blunt, I felt they seemed unhelpful, unfriendly, overindulged, and a little too much attitude (the latter refers mostly to women). An exception was the locals of Amsterdam who were refreshingly pleasant and helpful. The difference was apparent especially after we returned from Germany, where people were refreshingly friendly, helpful, approachable, and very polite. Also, in comparison to Belgium, where people would habitually wish us "Bon courage" which is a friendly way of encouraging someone in their travel endeavours, the Dutch would hardly ever reply to a normal "Hello". In France and Germany, drivers would give us half of the road to pass through, but in Holland, drivers would rarely stop to let us finish crossing the street. In Germany and Belgium when we would stop for a second to consult a map, momentarily someone would offer their assistance. In Holland, you could stand for hours, and no one would care. What is going on with the Dutch these days?? The country is rich, standard of living is very high, infrastructure is impeccable, the country's beauty is stunning, and yet, people see to be emotionally "constipated". What has happened to the country that has been for years considered one of the most progressive leaders of the world? Holland was among the first to accept and legalize prostitution as a profession, tolerate legalized drugs, honor gay rights and marriages, euthanasia, and embrace refugees from all over the world. But yet today, the country seems to lack an elementary friendliness, politeness or patience... I talked to one Dutch woman, highly educated, about my observations, who told me my perception was accurate, and she herself feels unhappy about people's attitude in her country. I asked her why there is so much negativity in Holland, and her reply was because there are too many immigrants. What can I say to that, coming from an educated person??? I could have told her, that during our cycling in Holland, Dutch immigrants were actually the ones who offered us assistance with directions, while the "native/non-immigrant" Dutch wouldn't spare a moment of their time. But, instead, I just listened to her reply... Her spouse (professor), by the way, chose to move his work from Holland to Germany, where people were nicer as he put it. I really don't know how to explain why Dutch are so different these days. Rob thinks it could be because of the over-population and the weather, I think maybe it is because there is too much of a good thing....





Anna's entry:

Return to Hook Van Holland via Drenthe and North Sea coast

We are on our way back, and will be catching a ferry back to the UK. This part of the trip offered fantastic scenery and more cycling adventure. I am so glad I was able to experience it. We encoutered a number of old historical castles, took a long ride through the dunes, took a "wild" bike path through the forrest filled with lavender fields, and observed a very cool sport kite surfing.






C
amping on the North Sea coast

Lavender fields of Drenthe



Heading out for a picnic at a castle


Riding on the North Sea coast


In the dunes at the North Sea





Kite Surfing video

Cycling the North Sea coast in Zeeland

Anna's entry:

We followed the canal route from Brugge, Belgium to the North Sea coast which was suggested to us by our new friend Hilde, who we stayed with in Brugge. It was a very pleasant and peaceful way to go. We reached the coast, and followed the coastal line with the North Sea and sand dunes on our left, and the lightning and thunderstorm, on our right. Yes, it was raining again, we've got used to it by now, but this time pouring rain was accompanied by numerous lightning strikes, which we kept seeing ahead of us somewhere on the sea horizon. It was pretty - dark purple sky hit by lightning flashes, white sail boats in a harbor, dunes, and just the two of us paddling on the coast. The rain eventually stopped once we were close to the border with Holland. You would not need a sign indicating it was Holland - bike lanes were everywhere, all numbered, signed, with their own traffic lights. Yes, Holland is THE country for easy cycling, the entire country's infrastructure is dedicated to it, and the Dutch love their bicycles. The young in fashionable clothes, the old in wooden shoes, parents with kids in the bike seats, singles with dogs in the baskets - the entire country seems to be on the bikes, virtually! The difference is that Rob and I carry a lot more panniers and camping equipment on our bikes, and, well, we don't have dogs in our baskets.

Our first night in Holland we camped close to the coast in Zeeland, there is a beautiful bike path along the coast following the North Sea, and we decided to follow it for a while. In our camping we met a few Dutch guys, who were crazy about kite flying. They all spoke perfect English, and despite of their age seemed to be well versed in history and politics. We have observed by now that Europeans seem so much more sophisticated, though once in a while we also run into ignorance and stupidity. As an example, in Zuid (South) Holland we run into a motorcycle group of youngsters all dressed in in nazi uniforms - I found it very repulsive and stupid. Also, the Dutch seem to be stingy (thus an expression "go Dutch"), and not as helpful as their Belgian neighbors for example, though we did meet several very kind and helpful individuals.

Going back to cycling... Loved the North Sea cycling route, beautiful scenery, beaches, dunes, fantastic cycling, and even despite the weather (rained on and off every day), had a great time here! Rob has a few long time friends in Holland from his past cycling trips here, and we stayed with one of the families in their caravan in Oudorp. As I mentioned before, Europeans take camping very seriously, and it is the main summer activity here along with all the infrastructure for it.

After Zeeland we headed out further North and inland, had more places to go, people to see...

We also spent several days in so called Nature Camping in Delft - the city famous for its blue painted porcelain.. The city was very pretty with numerous canals and medieval architecture, but the camping experience was the best. The camping owners promote a kind treatment of animals, so we had lots of cute bunnies running around and coming to the tent, along with the whole parade of wild ducks. Our camping neighbors were also nature lovers, so we had a great time here. Rob also had to repair his bike wheel in addition to a couple of flat tires, so we took advantage of free time. I also went on a bike ride through a park near by, and came across something unusual - the nudist beach, I mean not the topless beach, but completely nude, I guess it's Holland after all, right? I just rode my bike (dressed), and looked a kinda out of place. So, I let those nude men and women enjoy their sun shower, but I must say some of them probably would look better if they had something on. I tried not to look, but couldn't help noticing.... Ah, well, as long as it's innocent, let them enjoy. :)











With old time friends

The Dutch do transport their dogs on their bikes