Hong Kong
Anna's entry:
Well, here it is - the last stop of the most recent journey in SE Asia... Normally, I'd give the synopsis of the destination, however, this time instead of writing about funky and unusual world of Chungking mansions (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chungking_Mansions) or the modern miracle of Hong Kong, I would rather contemplate on the past journey.
Starting in the remote Borneo region of Malaysia and Indonesia almost six months ago, continuing on to the mysterious rituals of Sulawesi, climbing up the volcanoes of Java, re-uniting with modern comforts of Singapore, being mesmerized by the Visayas of the Philippines, returning back to the hospitable Malaysia, finding peace in the Ko Torutao Islands of Thailand - how could one summarize six months of the national-geographic-like-action in a few sentences? The journey has never been easy, however, it has been ultimately rewarding. The memories of swimming with the magnificent whale sharks and giant sea turtles, snorkeling in the stormy ocean with gracious manta rays and holding in a hand a newly born sea turtle, being fascinated with the fascinating burial rituals and rejuvenated by diversity of the nature and human spirit... The experiences overcome the challenges and doubts, it pushes you to learn more about yourself and appreciate things that are normally taken for granted. The past travels also taught me that recognizing one's own weaknesses could be the very strength in itself. At the end of the journey we frequently ask ourselves will we ever do it again? And, most always, the answer is - Yes.
From Satun, Thailand to Penang, Malaysia
Anna's entry:
SATUN
We arrived in Satun after spending a week on the peaceful Ko Adang. This part of the country sees a lot less tourism these days due to some terrorist acts a few years ago. Satun is a very peaceful place, and genuine hospitality and friendliness were apparent. One day walking around the town and enjoying a sweet creamy Tai tea from 7-11 (a very popular store chain across Thailand), we came across a street parade and were invited to join a traditional dance right on the the street. Another time taking a stroll in the evening, a group of local guys invited us over for a chat and a drink they were having by the curb of the road. Simple things like that make a person feel welcomed, and certainly prevents you feeling like an outsider. Thailand used to be like that many years ago until the hoards of tourists ruined it, which is too bad. Luckily for us, Satun preserved it's genuine nature, which was refreshing to see.
From Satun we headed back to Hat Yai, and from there we would cross over into Malaysia. It took over two hours to cross the border to Malaysia due to the notoriously famous Thai water festival taking place annually (also locally known as "Songkran" which has traditionally been celebrated as the New Year). Basically, the celebration involves getting as many people wet as possible, with unloading water on complete strangers. Let me tell you, some take it pretty seriously - my personal explanation is that for some people, this is a chance to unload all the frustration on strangers (doing it with a smile of course). The entire city got armed with water baloons, water guns, water hoses, and anybody was a fair game. Naturally, it was a big fun for locals, but for us - carrying big backpacks and photo equipment - was a different story. We got completely drenched in water, though once we settled in a familiar by now hotel, we were able to pay back the favour, well, Rob did actually (I comfortably hid in the alley with a couple of local old ladies and enjoyed the entertainment in a sneaky sort of a way). Rob joined a local group of water warriors and got a nice supply of water which he unloaded on the upcoming vehicles and the other "water opposition". Being a relatively big guy and efficient in unloading the water barrels, he quickly secured the reputation of the one to watch out for. Sometimes, it would take three or four locals trying to conquer Rob, but most of the time he won anyway. A couple of times he was even offered "to switch the sides", but he stayed loyal to his own troops. :)
PENANG
A little touristy - yes, however, hop on a local bus and get away from the crowds among the Buddhist temples and hiking around few hills. While making our way from Thailand to Malaysia, we met a very nice guy from Moscow (Russia) named Maxim who joined us for a while in our travels. The three of us would go for walks and sample local specialties, lots of great Malay and Indian food gets cooked up around Penang. My mouth is watering thinking about naans, parathas, curries, tandoori chicken and a few other dishes that would get efficiently cooked up in clay and tandoor ovens and would be served on the tables set up with in the middle of the street. Penang is also a very economical place not only to visit but also to live in, and therefore, quite a few expats make their home here. We stayed in a basic but adequate hotel run by a Chinese family, and a couple of our neighbours were from Australia and UK that came to Penang about ten years ago, and never left. It is a simple living here compared to the West, but it also offers a low key alternative to the perpetual rat race which those two gentlemen wanted to avoid. It certainly makes sense to me. Over all, I find a traditional Asian life style and philosophy towards life very appealing. It gives a sense of simplicity to everyday life, and in many ways it slows the pace of life - which gives you time to think and contemplate. Unfortunately, Asia has been changing, and I am afraid that in the next five years, the traditional wisdom of life would become a thing of the past... But for now, I am grateful to have had an opportunity to observe and explore the "other" outlook. As one Buddhist monk told me - everyone has their own button, and it is up to us when we choose to push it...
Ko Adang Marine National Park, Thailand
Anna's entry:
Having been to Thailand so many times, I always wanted to visit Ko Tarutao Marine National park. It is relatively inaccessible (meaning not many tourists), and the islands are one of the most unspoilt and exquisite regions of the country. Actually, the first
Survivor (American reality TV show) was filmed here in 2001. The marine park encompasses 51 islands, and I specifically chose the island of Ko Adang - it is more rustic and pristine, with gorgeous shoreline, good snorkeling, and a wonderful getaway feeling... So, after a stop in Hat Yai and Pak Bara, we took off by boat to Ko Adang.
When we arrived on the island, the park ranger informed us that we could have a bungalow for only one night (limited accommodation had already been booked), and the rest of the time we would have to camp. The latter was not a very appealing notion at first, but after we were showed to a huge tent right on the perfect white sand beach surrounded by pine trees (yes!), only 10 meters away from the crystal clear emerald tinted Indian ocean waters, I knew this island would quickly become one of my favorites. Even though sleeping on the sandy surface was uncomfortable, it was a small price to pay for the paradise. It is difficult to pin point what exactly was so special about that particular island, as we had been to a lot of amazing places, but I clearly remember a feeling of freedom and peace, a sense of genuine happiness, and gratitude for being able to experience the beauty and simplicity of the nature and the ocean. In the mornings and afternoons, we would walk out from the tent into the ocean and snorkel along the coast. We would encounter several families of squid waltzing in clear waters just before the sunset, and by the end of the week the numerous tropical fish got used to our presence and snorkeling around the reef. When we did not snorkel, we would settle into the stretched waved hammock, and would watch the ocean and the sunset; the sounds of caressing waves and reflection of the moon on the ocean surface added to the general feeling of the peace and rejuvenation. There were a few other campers, but our tents were situated quite far from each other, so we felt completely alone. We brought food provisions with us, and would occasionally pick up some freshly cooked rice and hot water for tea or coffee from a simple restaurant located on the park ranger premises... We haven't encountered anything spectacular in regards to the marine life (nothing like giant sea turtles or manta rays of the Indonesian Borneo, or whale sharks of the Philippines; plus we have pretty high standards and expectations), however, the over all disposition of the island brought an amazing experience. I was after the sense of tranquility and I found it on Ko Adang...
Back to Malaysia
Anna's entry:
KUALA LUMPUR (again)
Yes, we are back to Malaysia again, is it the third time in three years? We arrived in Kuala Lumpur in the early morning hours, and our friends from college met us at the airport. Yes, KL has become a sort of friends re-union location for us. On the way from the airport we stopped at a very interesting rest stop (I think we needed it), which was very appreciated by both of us after a long flight and a night at the airport. It looked like a gorgeous muslim temple with posh (and free) shower facilities. It felt more like a museum of showers, not your regular facilities! Never underestimate the luxury of hot running water after months of cold bucket shower! Anyway, we spent three wonderful days with Ling Fong, Chi Wee and their family. Traveling for a while, it is always so nice to be met by familiar faces and have a home stay, it recharges you and brings back a sense of the family. Since this was our second time to KL, we didn't spend too much time on touristy things (though we did visited upon our friends' persuasion the famous Batu Caves temples, a few museums and several multi-cultural neighborhoods). When in KL - it is nice just to walk around (though the traffic and drivers are annoying I must admit). The best part about walking around in KL is the encounter with great food stalls (Malay is my favourite), and I personally enjoy the interesting skyscraper mix of the modern islamic architecture. After a few days, we rested well, enjoyed a good company and entertaining conversations, and were ready to continue our journey further North, the next step will be Melaka.
MELAKA
Melaka is an unusual Malaysian town, in some ways it reminded me an older and smaller version of Singapore (except it is not polished up). It definitely reflects the influence of the Portuguese and European presence like the cobble stone streets and the religious architecture, but it is certainly a very Asian city, heavily influenced by the Chinese heritage and Muslim presence. It is a pleasant town to walk around, especially in the evening. The canals and streets are lit up in various shades of color, and though the town may be perceived somewhat touristy (it is on the Unesco World Heritage list), one could always find a place away from the crowds. We stayed in a tiny hotel owned by a young modern enthusiastic Chinese guy. The first night he invited us over to his parents' home for a quick home cooked meal, he himself was preparing for a backpacking trip to Taiwan, so he knew what it was like traveling around. Rob and I walked around the town a lot, and once came across a Hindu celebration. We were invited in and were treated to a meal, along with a cold bottle of pop which was very refreshing in the high heat of the tropics. On another walk, we came across excellent street food vendors that worked around the clock. The muslim guy who was in charge of the establishment cooked super tasty tandoori dishes - his clay oven was set up right on the street, and let me tell you - my mouth is still watering when I think about the freshly baked garlic naan bread accompanied by crispy tandoori chicken and fresh mint-coconut dip sauce, to finish up with a cup of hot sweet chai (all for under $2). For lunch, we would get a plate of rice with filling chicken curry and a glass of mango lassi. Yes, Malay food is super-duper, and diet - what diet??
TAIPING and ALOR SETAR
Those two stops were rest stop-overs on a bus journey heading North on the way to Southern Thailand. Taiping was a pleasant town with a few nice lakes to walk around, but nothing too special. An interesting thing though was the place we stayed at. We had a room in a the old villa, which actually during WWII had been converted into a military police station used by the Japanese, so we had some history in the surrounding walls... We walked a bit around town, and ended up at a large Hindu festival with lots of free lunch boxes given out and free drinks. We also took a jeep ride up the mountain, but got stuck in the heavy rain storm, so instead of hiking around we found a cover in someone's being-built residence and waited out the rain.
A couple of days later, we reached the city of Alor Setar, from where we were hoping to catch the train and cross into Thailand. Alor Setar is a relatively modern Malay town, with lots of traffic and congestion. I think it is used by many businessmen as it was very difficult to find a room (it is not touristy at all though). Rob and I got into some funny discussions with a hotel staff in regards to a room availability - people did not speak much English at all, and it took some diplomacy to finally secure a room. For some reason, Rob would be informed that none of the rooms were available, but when I inquired, the room would be offered. It was a little bit strange, but we got a good room with a window facing a canal and bridge. In some ways, the view reminded me of Europe; but Rob brought me back to reality by pointing out the canals never stunk that bad there, so my romanticized version of being back to the European continent was quickly "demystified". Another thing I remember about Alor Setar was a food place called "Restaurant Rose". The place was very popular with the muslim guys and cricket sport matches that were blaring on the television (as it happens often by now, I was the only woman in the restaurant). The food was decent, but a little unusual - the name was proudly reflected in all the dishes on offer. The curry was flavored with rose fragrance, the rice was flavored with rose fragrance, and the tea, yes you guessed it, was flavored with rose fragrance. But, the Malay hospitality was good, and the price was right.
The next morning, we managed to get on the early a.m. train, and crossed the border onto Hat Yai, Thailand. We would come back to Malaysia in about a month or so, for the flight to North America.
Legaspi, the Philippines finale
Anna's entry:
Well, here it is - we have reached the finale of our Philippines journey... Legaspi seemed like a natural end of the story - the city with the most perfect volcano, which never sleeps and periodically reminds of it's grandeur status by sending eruptions and smoke into the air... But, when we were there, its peaceful cone was a soothing sight. From here we will be heading out back to Malaysia; saying good-bye to the beautiful giant from the plane window was also saying good-bye to our unforgettable journey in the Philippines...
We came to this magnificent land without too many expectations, however, we left feeling enriched and rewarded beyond any best-laid plans. The gentle side of the Philippine people, amazingly beautiful nature, unbelievable encounters with the marine wildlife, and over-all feeling of the trip that went right. The images of the Philippines are striking. Even now, writing this blog entry many months later we could enjoy the vivid memories swimming with giant whale sharks around Padre Burgos, or finding solitude on the Siquijor Island of witches; waking up in the tree house on the ocean shore of San Antonio Island, or discovering tide pools on Biri Islands; a gentle smile of the old lady offering us a better seat on the motorcycle taxi, or all those numerous rides in the colorful jeepney's across so many islands... The memory line just keeps going on and on, just like the Philippines itself - thousands of islands with thousands of memories... Thank you, the Philippines for the unforgettable journey!
San Antonio and Biri Islands, N. Samar, Philippines
SAN ANTONIO ISLAND
Anna's entry:
LOVED the island and the place! Peaceful, easy going, beautiful, welcoming... Even now, many months later writing this blog, I could still feel a complete sense of tranquility. We have seen a lot of extraordinary places, this particular island would not compete with top notch scenerey, but the soothing location quality was simply amazing. And, staying in a creatively engineered half-thatch-house-half-tree house was also a special touch. We brought a nice supply of food items with us, which helped greatly with the budget and variety. We would snorkel in the morning, afternoon, and evening in beautiful warm waters - the ocean was about 10 meters away from our lodging, and at night we could here waves gently caressing the sandy shoreline. The location and facilities were primitive, which I think gave that special touch to the place.
LAVEZARES - on the way from San Antonio to Biri Islands:
We had to wait for a few hours for a local boat to cross the treacherous San Bernardino Strait on the way to Biri Islands. While waiting, we met a group of lovely local kids, who were performing a high degree of acrobatic pirouettes, jumping from the wall edge into the ocean. They seemed to be very honored to have us their audience, and tried to impress us with new tricks and jumps. We also chatted with two young kids - a brother and sister, whose mom had apparently moved to Texas, U.S. in order to earn the money, and consequently they were adopted by their grandma. They waited with us for a boat, shared their story, told us some jokes, practised English, and then when the boat departed, kept waiving us good-buy and sending us air kisses. Another special person we met on the way to Biri was Grace - a local lady who is married to an Australian guy. Later on, we would meet up on the Biri Islands, take walk together on the coast, and sample freshly cut from her trees coconut juice. I still have the sea-shell necklace that Grace so kindly presented me with as a token of friendship.
BIRI ISLANDS
Another excellent stop, and most definitely off the beaten track. We met only two other westerners (two NGO girls), who were shocked to see us there, they have never seen western travelers in this area (which I am not surprised about). Biri islands (or to be exact Belicuarto Islnd) are known for amazinf rocks formations that were created by pounding ocean waves. During the low tides, the rock formation are exposed and become accessible tide pools with an amazing see life including large tiger sea shells, see stars, soft corals, and numerous tropical fish. They almost looked and felt like underwater canyons with tunnels. We brought snorkeling equipment with us and explored numerous canyons for hours.
To get to these amazing rock pools, we hired a driver with a motorbike, and all three of us took off along the bumpy road. Then, we had to walk through the muddy flooded area for about 1/2 km, and Rob and I frequently wondered what kind of creatures we may not be seeing under out feet while walking in the murky muddy waters (shoes were out of the question) - but it was worth the effort, and once we reached the fantastic rock pools with crystal clear ocean water and marine life, we were happy.
Another entertaining thing was the place we stayed at. The hotel called Villa Amor was located right on the ocean shore - the most peculiar thing was the hotel animal inhabitants. Actually, there was a lot of drama between the three of them, so called "love triangle". A tiny dog was in love with a female cat (who also seemed to have exhibited reciprocal feelings), as well as the other male cat who was also trying to conquer the heart of the female heart. It was very entertaining to watch the dynamics of the trio, and the locals and us were privileged to witness the unforgettable love story...
To return back to N. Samar, we caught a ride with the local fishermen. Though the boat seemed stable enough at the shore, I must admit feeling a sense of worry when we were crossing the straight with our boat being thrown almost vertically against the waves a few times. Fortunately, we arrived safely, but unfortunately the boat landed a few kilometers from the town center, so we ended up walking in the heat of the day with our large backpacks, sweating like working mules (used to it by now).
Before catching a local bus on the way to the next Island of Luzon, we ended up finding a street market with surprisingly tasty food options, and having satisfied our tummies and thirst, we were back into a good mood, ready to continue on...
From Leyte to Samar Island, Philippines
Anna's entry:
TACLOBAN (last stop on Leyte)
Prior to continuing our journey to the province/island of Samar, which is considered one of the poorest and least visited in the Visayas, we made a stop-over in Tacloban (the Capital City of Leyte province). Tacloban is a dusty, not particularly interesting town, however, friendly and welcoming. We needed a rest stop-over for the bus connections onto Samar. Having been away from civilization, we decided to spend a few days in Tacloban and treat ourselves to TV (which came with a room). We had to change a room after the first night - due to the mold, which seems to be typical around here, but the second room was quite all right. The center of town had numerous bakeries, so we would run across the street to get some freshly baked rolls to go along with movies. We also wandered around, and once came upon a village community on the outskirts of town. We climbed up the hills to watch the sunset and were accompanied by a few young boys. On top of the hill we saw lots of kids and adults trying to fly kites. Most kites were broken or mended, but some were able to fly up to the sky, which produced a big enthusiasm of the locals. It is not the first time we've noticed how the impoverished areas find joy in the simplest things, and seem so genuinely happy... A few days later, it was finally the time to take off for Samar.
CATBALAGAN (First stop on Samar)
Samar is one of the most impoverished provinces of the Philippines, and in some ways almost forgotten by both the politicians and tourists. The roads and transport are more limited, which keeps Samar more of an off-the-beaten track destination to travel in. Our first stop was in Catbalagan, which gave us an interesting start in Samar. Having used by now being the only visiting foreigners, we thought nothing of staying in a somewhat strange place, but very clean and cheap. We climbed the stairs of a dimly lit hotel to inquire about a room, and were greeted by two smiley teethless ladies who did not speak a word of English. They motioned us to wait, and we put down our heavy backpacks on the concrete floor. Soon after, they shouted at someone around the corner (who was apparently fluent in Englsih) to come out and help us check in. A young lady stepped out of her room, wrapped up in a towel, who seemingly looked interrupted from being engaged in some business with another "customer". She very quickly helped us to check in a private room away from the "busy scene", and disappeared back into her own room. Not sure if we interpreted everything correctly, but we all seemed to understand what kind of place it was... But, the hotel was clean, friendly, and cheap. The whole experience reminded us about a similar stay in Guadelajara (Mexico), so we laughed and knew what to expect - a clean room and sense of humor. Having secured a room, we went in search of supper. Eventually, we located a BBQ chicken stand (a staple of Philippino cuisine), and not having any parks or pleasant places to eat outside, we settled on the curb along the main street, which gave us a great position to people-watch. In the perpetual stream of motor bikes, trucks, cycle-taxis, school children, vendors, etc. - street was smelly and noisy. Eventually, we saw our hotel ladies standing in the alley - either to get a look outside or welcome new clients, the latter being more likely... We returned back to our room facing the noisy street, and soon after felt an earthquake, followed by a tsunami warning on the East coast of Samar. However, being on the West coast, it was safe to continue our journey further North.
CALBAYOG
It is rare, that I have regrets about visiting a place - even if the experience was not the most rewarding, one could always learn from it, or simply forget about it. I must admit, the town of Calbayog is the only negative impression left about the Philippines. We spent only one night in that town - all hotels were booked up and over-priced, which doesn't make sense except for one fact - westerners do visit this place for an unknown reason (maybe ferry connection?). Eventually, we found a place to stay which seemed fine during the day, however, the night was a different story. Our room was above a karaoke bar, that blasted music until around 5 a.m. The bar attracted young Philippino women and old Western men, so you are getting the picture. To put it shortly, I had a verbal confrontation with the hotel manager around 2:30 a.m., and by 3:30 a.m. we left the hotel. Thankfully, some bakeries are open 24 hours, so we spent the rest of the night drinking coffee, eating freshly baked rolls, and conversing with young police-in-training ladies. At 5:30 a.m., we headed out to the bus station to get out of this miserable town. The timing worked out perfectly actually, as we needed extra hours to make a bus-boat connection to the beautiful island of San Antonio, which turned out to be one of the most peaceful stops...
Naval Island, Philippines
ALMERIA
Anna's entry:
After an unbelievable encounter with the beautiful whale sharks our spirits were up, we were truly enjoying our travels in the Philippines, and it was obvious that getting off the tourist trail was the way to go. We elected to go on with our travels in smaller and not-so-known places which continued to be a tried-and-proven method of experiencing the genuine side of the Philippines and finding peace and quiet. One of such many places was our stop in Almeria. It became the usual occurrence by now that we are the only foreigners visiting, meaning we could have the entire place to ourselves, no westerners in sight! We settled in a small wooden cottage overlooking a peaceful bay, it looked almost like a tree house with a balcony and a few modern conveniences such as running cold water and a shower. We also brought all the food provisions with us which helped us a lot with the budget and flexibility of meals. In the morning we would enjoy a simple breakfast on a terrace, then we would step down to the ocean for some snorkeling or take a "western pleasure" and use the swimming pool for splashing around and enjoying a refreshing afternoon. Once, a local man brought his family to the pool and invited us to join him for lunch - freshly prepared BBQ chicken and cold beer. He admitted he was really surprised to see Westerners in this place, and was very pleased to hear we try to avoid them (for a known by now reason) ourselves. We spent several days chilling out in this hidden quiet place, and rested up for our journey onto Samar - one of the forgotten, and least touristy places in the Philippines.
Leyte Island, Philippines
MAASIN
The sea crossing from Ubay (Bohol) to Maasin (S. Leyte) was easy - no rough seas and no rip-offs. For a change, we arrived in the bright day light, and within an easy walk from the ferry dock found an acceptable place to sleep. Besides us, there were only a couple of foreigners staying in Maasin, and even though the city did not have much to offer, we felt comfortable and accepted by locals right away. There was a tiny night market where Rob and I would get our snacks and supper - hot dogs, roasted peanuts, mango drinks, AND home made pancakes! We would venture up the hill to watch the sunset. In the distance, along the curvy coastal line, we could see our next destination point - Padre Burgos. The latter was the reason we ventured onto S. Leyte in search of magnificent whale sharks...PADRE BURGOS
PADRE BURGOS
Padre Burgos was one of the most memorable stops of our journey in the Philippines. The location was stunning, the place was fantastic (we splurged for the ocean front room surrounded by a walk-around balcony for $20 a night), the ocean was literally a few steps away. We went snorkeling every day, it took us only two minutes to leave our room and enter the waters. We would drift with gentle currents along the edge of corals, and would encounter numerous schools of fish that probably were following their food trail and ended up closer to shores. The reef was in decent shape, however, it was the season for "jelly fish shedding", and we encountered millions of what looked like thin hairs brought by currents from far away ocean waters. We would get minor stings from that, but locals reassured us that they were not dangerous. However, on one occasion I got tangled up in a long tentacle broken off a jelly fish - it was nearly transparent and almost impossible to see in the water, but I certainly could feel it, a lot... It felt like a long sharp paper cut that went over my chin, neck and upper part of the arm. I was wearing a wet suit and luckily did not get stung on my chest and shoulders... I tried to break the tentacle off my body and got stings over my hands and wrists. I quickly swam towards the shore and got out to the beach. When I looked over my skin, I saw cuts and swellings. I sprayed some vinegar, and it helped to reduce the burning sensation, but it was enough to cease the motivation to go back into the water. It took weeks before the traces of the jelly fish healed up, and I ended up with minor scars over my chin and shoulder for another month or so... I did go back for more snorkeling later on though - you have to conquer your fear before it conquers you, especially if you learn to be more careful... In addition, there was another absolutely stunning snorkeling experience that was awaiting us ...
Having traveled for a long time, we don't have many 'Wow!' days anymore, but the experience in Padre Burgos became a life-long memory for both of us. We chartered a boat with a local guy (a canoe with a small engine out on the high seas) for about $35 for everything - for a fraction of what the dive resort wanted (and there we'd be part of a 'group'). The boatman could not speak a word of English, but he knew his area and the waters, and he took us for an adventure of a lifetime. We spent all day - just the two of us in the entire bay - swimming with ... whale sharks. That was one of the coolest things ever! It was an experience we'll never forget. It felt like we were swimming along side of a small airplane. The largest ones were probably around 20-25 feet long (7-8 meters); it looked like there were about 4 of us there in length, and who knows how many in weight!). You know how you're flying and looking out the window? You see the big wing, and cities/land features slowly pass by below - that's what this experience seemed like. We were over these monster size fishes (close enough to touch - yep, we gently did) slowly swimming with us and around us, and the coral landscape slowly passed by down below. One of the whale sharks spent a long time with us. We swam about 45 minutes side by side with it. This beautiful huge creature felt like a swim buddy, not rushing anywhere, making gentle turns, allowing us to keep up with it, and its eyes would look at us in a trusting way. This is the stuff from the movies, my friends...
A couple of times we saw a turtle swim along the bottom eclipsed by the whale shark. Also, towards the afternoon, we had five sightings of two whale sharks together, coming towards each other and us! They both would gracefully swim around us with their mouths wide opened that looked like a wide entrance to a cave, it took a big degree of trust on both ends, that's for sure! We looked like tiny objects between those magnificent creatures, and we felt privileged to be accepted by these ocean gentle giants. Even now, writing this blog entry many months later being back home, we could clearly visualize that unbelievable encounter, and we could still see their trusting eyes and magnificent elegant giant bodies... I hope that the whale sharks would survive and go on living for centuries to come... With all the pollution and destruction of the marine environment, they continue to fall victims to human greed and indifference. For us personally, the encounter with the whale sharks became one of the most memorable life moments... Video links to whale sharks:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0g1QCRh5ts0
So far, the Philippines have proven to be an unusual country compared to other SE Asian locations. Up till yesterday, the marine life hasn't been up to our expectations, and then ... bang ... here we are, swimming along side with whale sharks! The people seem more reserved than the Indonesians, but very polite, though yesterday we spiced it up a little - we were given a megaphone by a tricycle (motorcycle taxi) driver, and we made a short speech - turning all the heads on the street and getting lots of smiles and hand waves back. Another pleasant surprise is that so far we haven't had all the rip-offs we were expecting, and we seem to be getting local prices (as opposed to a foreigner rates). And, for a change, we could communicate with majority of locals in English, and that serves us well. It does seem like Philippines have their act together a lot more compared to other Asian countries we've visited; for instance - there is definitely more emphasis on public education and medical care, and people seem more at peace with themselves. Though, we have definitely come across begging, unfortunately many beggars are young children...
We have a few more weeks here, in the Philippines, and expecting more discoveries about the country. After a short stop-over in Ormoc, we will be off further North crossing into a less populated island of Naval.
