Sunday, April 11, 2010

Back to Malaysia



Anna's entry:

KUALA LUMPUR (again)

Yes, we are back to Malaysia again, is it the third time in three years? We arrived in Kuala Lumpur in the early morning hours, and our friends from college met us at the airport. Yes, KL has become a sort of friends re-union location for us. On the way from the airport we stopped at a very interesting rest stop (I think we needed it), which was very appreciated by both of us after a long flight and a night at the airport. It looked like a gorgeous muslim temple with posh (and free) shower facilities. It felt more like a museum of showers, not your regular facilities! Never underestimate the luxury of hot running water after months of cold bucket shower! Anyway, we spent three wonderful days with Ling Fong, Chi Wee and their family. Traveling for a while, it is always so nice to be met by familiar faces and have a home stay, it recharges you and brings back a sense of the family. Since this was our second time to KL, we didn't spend too much time on touristy things (though we did visited upon our friends' persuasion the famous Batu Caves temples, a few museums and several multi-cultural neighborhoods). When in KL - it is nice just to walk around (though the traffic and drivers are annoying I must admit). The best part about walking around in KL is the encounter with great food stalls (Malay is my favourite), and I personally enjoy the interesting skyscraper mix of the modern islamic architecture. After a few days, we rested well, enjoyed a good company and entertaining conversations, and were ready to continue our journey further North, the next step will be Melaka.












MELAKA

Melaka is an unusual Malaysian town, in some ways it reminded me an older and smaller version of Singapore (except it is not polished up). It definitely reflects the influence of the Portuguese and European presence like the cobble stone streets and the religious architecture, but it is certainly a very Asian city, heavily influenced by the Chinese heritage and Muslim presence. It is a pleasant town to walk around, especially in the evening. The canals and streets are lit up in various shades of color, and though the town may be perceived somewhat touristy (it is on the Unesco World Heritage list), one could always find a place away from the crowds. We stayed in a tiny hotel owned by a young modern enthusiastic Chinese guy. The first night he invited us over to his parents' home for a quick home cooked meal, he himself was preparing for a backpacking trip to Taiwan, so he knew what it was like traveling around. Rob and I walked around the town a lot, and once came across a Hindu celebration. We were invited in and were treated to a meal, along with a cold bottle of pop which was very refreshing in the high heat of the tropics. On another walk, we came across excellent street food vendors that worked around the clock. The muslim guy who was in charge of the establishment cooked super tasty tandoori dishes - his clay oven was set up right on the street, and let me tell you - my mouth is still watering when I think about the freshly baked garlic naan bread accompanied by crispy tandoori chicken and fresh mint-coconut dip sauce, to finish up with a cup of hot sweet chai (all for under $2). For lunch, we would get a plate of rice with filling chicken curry and a glass of mango lassi. Yes, Malay food is super-duper, and diet - what diet??







TAIPING and ALOR SETAR
Those two stops were rest stop-overs on a bus journey heading North on the way to Southern Thailand. Taiping was a pleasant town with a few nice lakes to walk around, but nothing too special. An interesting thing though was the place we stayed at. We had a room in a the old villa, which actually during WWII had been converted into a military police station used by the Japanese, so we had some history in the surrounding walls... We walked a bit around town, and ended up at a large Hindu festival with lots of free lunch boxes given out and free drinks. We also took a jeep ride up the mountain, but got stuck in the heavy rain storm, so instead of hiking around we found a cover in someone's being-built residence and waited out the rain.

A couple of days later, we reached the city of Alor Setar, from where we were hoping to catch the train and cross into Thailand. Alor Setar is a relatively modern Malay town, with lots of traffic and congestion. I think it is used by many businessmen as it was very difficult to find a room (it is not touristy at all though). Rob and I got into some funny discussions with a hotel staff in regards to a room availability - people did not speak much English at all, and it took some diplomacy to finally secure a room. For some reason, Rob would be informed that none of the rooms were available, but when I inquired, the room would be offered. It was a little bit strange, but we got a good room with a window facing a canal and bridge. In some ways, the view reminded me of Europe; but Rob brought me back to reality by pointing out the canals never stunk that bad there, so my romanticized version of being back to the European continent was quickly "demystified". Another thing I remember about Alor Setar was a food place called "Restaurant Rose". The place was very popular with the muslim guys and cricket sport matches that were blaring on the television (as it happens often by now, I was the only woman in the restaurant). The food was decent, but a little unusual - the name was proudly reflected in all the dishes on offer. The curry was flavored with rose fragrance, the rice was flavored with rose fragrance, and the tea, yes you guessed it, was flavored with rose fragrance. But, the Malay hospitality was good, and the price was right.

The next morning, we managed to get on the early a.m. train, and crossed the border onto Hat Yai, Thailand. We would come back to Malaysia in about a month or so, for the flight to North America.

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