Rob and Anna's travel adventure

Anna's entry:

This entry should bear the title "Stunning views with stinging reap-offs".

After Borneo and Sulawesi, where sincere hospitality and welcome seem the norm, Bromo was a shock. Right away, reaching Bromo gave us a bitter experience. After arriving by a public bus to a town of Probolingo, we found a local van that goes up to the volcano Bromo village once there is a full load of passengers. No problem, we can wait. Since we had a couple of hours of wait time, we decided to try hitching - several trucks and vans stopped, but they did not go all the distance. No problem. Eventually, one of the vans passing by stopped, and reassured us they DO go all the way to the Bromo village, we do NOT need to change any buses, and they DO charge us only the negotiated and confirmed rate. OK... It started good, then half way up the mountains the van stopped and told us they won't go further unless we pay quadrupled price. If we don't pay the new price, a cartel of motorcycles (pulling next to our van) will take us the rest of the way. No way, we told them. We expected them to honor their commitment, or they won't be paid. They tried to come up with stupid excuses like "they don't have enough passengers, or they don't usually go there, or they needed more money for fuel", or whatever they could come up with. The scenario reminded me too much of Viet Nam, and began pushing my nerves. I gave them a last chance in a polite manner to honor the commitment, and after it failed, I exploded on them. I told them that we've traveled way too long in SE Asia to be taken for fools, we have been around for way too long to be taken advantage of, the fact we do not speak Bahasa Indonesia doesn't make us stupid; I also told them that we are NOT leaving the van until they either take us to the final destination or all the way back to Probolingo, they will NOT be paid a penny unless they take us all the way to Bromo, and I may have used a couple of not-so-lady-like terms to communicate my frustration. Eventually, after a big row, my point got across, and the dishonest van driver and conductor realized we were way too stubborn for their scam. The van driver started an engine, and all of a sudden about 20 meters driving around the corner, they had enough passengers waiting, and yes - the passengers were going exactly the same route we were. Eventually, we made it to our final destination at an original price. But we felt bitter after leaving the van. Dishonesty was obviously the norm of life around Bromo - way too many foreign tourists to pass, who allow to be taken advantage of, which spoil it for the rest of us.

The tourist trap continued in the volcano village. Everyone approaching us wanted to sell something - their photo, tours, transport, etc. Hotels were over-priced and run by arrogant owners and indifferent staff, cliff top restaurants' prices were inflated. The only decent local we met was an owner of a homestay, who offered us a place to stay at a very reasonable rate and who treated us in a hospitable manner we have grown accustomed to. He also introduced us to a local Muslim run eatery with acceptable local food and cheap prices. So, that worked out OK.

As far as the volcano goes. Yes, it' pretty - you could reach the volcano top by foot by sunrise, and there is a steaming crater you could see right in front of you if you walk along the crater lip - prepare for a lot of sulfur exhaust, and there are several unmarked trails around other volcanoes and valleys. The scenery is beautiful, the local attitude is not...