Friday, November 20, 2009

Sandakan, Sabah

Anna's entry:

Locals of Sandakan were a very refreshing change after Ranau - lots of hello's, smiles, waving hands, and welcome's. We stayed at a hotel run by a very prudent Chinese family. The owner was a little grumpy, but knew his business very well, and made sure his rooms have everything a tired long-distance traveler needs - clean sheets, towels, soap, flip-flops for bathroom use, cold and hot drinking water, numerous hangers, ropes to hang your washed clothes to dry, AC (yes!), AND even flat screen satellite TV along with DVD player. Keep in mind, we also are talking here about about a budget hotel for 45 Ringets (about 15 USD). I know, for those having traveled in SE Asia, the description above is beyond believe (unless of course you are staying at a higher end hotel, which we refuse to do). In addition, the owner was guarding the entry like a watch dog, so we felt we were staying in a fortress, with top notch security. Being away from the West, we caught up on a few movies and excellent National Geographic series. One of them was actually about Orangutans, which we'd happened to experience ourselves just a few days prior in Sepilok.

Another pleasant thing about Sandakan was a great cheap Indian restaurant (yes, I am still fixated on my favorite Indian cuisine). And again the place was run by easy going guys from Kerala, so we established the rapport pretty quick, and, needless to say here, were not over charged a single penny for al three days we ate there. We also stumbled by a a small pancake stall run by a shy Muslim lady. The pancakes were great and cheap - they were not your usual pancakes - they came with shredded coconut and were almost half inch thick, meaning were very filling. After the 2nd time we came to buy a few more from her, we were welcomed with a huge smile, and both the stall lady and locals eating there were very pleased and proud that we liked the food so much, that we came back again.

Rob and I also spent a day exploring the town by foot - from an unusual Japanese cemetery to a Mayor residence, from a Chinese temple to an English write house, from an ancient burial to a track and field field. At the latter, the locals were surprised but pleased to see foreigners, and were were greeted with lots of hello's, smiles and waving hands.

Please don't think though, that everything is so rosy and cheery here. Leaving town was a small disaster; actually, we had to leave town twice, literally. You see, we wanted to visit an area called Kinabatangan, which is supposedly one of the best areas to encounter the wildlife. We also wanted to do that independently - no packages, no tour groups. And, an independent planning just doesn't fly with the transportation cartel, who are ripping foreigners off like banana peels. I am hoping Rob would write up a special entry, for now here is my synopsis...

No one likes an unfair treatment, no one likes discrimination, no one likes to be ripped off. We were given a price of transport to our next destination. We showed up on time, with plenty of time to claim our seats. The van driver did not bother to show up on time, and locals and us were standing for about an hour waiting for him. We found out from locals the price, however, when the sleazy driver saw us, foreigners, he measured us up with an ignorant smirk on his face and of, course, doubled the price. We really wanted to respond by a universal "F....You...'' sign, but instead did something more tamed, picked up our backpacks and walked away. We decided to stay another night in Sandakan, and have another fresh try tomorrow. That turned out to be a great decision. Early next morning we got on a local bus with an honest driver and honest price, got to the local bus station, got close to a local price to get to the next point, and began hitching from there. After about 10 minutes an old construction truck pulled over, and we were invited to jump in. As it turned out, the truck guys were originally from Tamil Nadu (India), and we immediately built a rapport and shared our experiences traveling there. After 40 km we were dropped off where we needed to be. The guys refused to accept our money, but we really wanted to contribute, and gave them what the actual bus fare would be. They were very appreciative, thanked us, and made sure we knew where to go next. Their kindness erased our bitterness from a previous morning, and we finally were excited to explore the Kinabatangan wild life.






Rob doesn't like to pose, but I pursuaded him. :)




Only in Asia you could see signs like this in a hotel room...


1 Comments:

At 8:54 PM, Blogger isabella uzaraga said...

I believe the pancakes are called Matar Bak. They come filled with anything.

Did you see Agnes Keith's home atop the town? Her books are worth a read.

 

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