Malaysia - Kuala Lumpur & Penang
Anna's entry:
We have been coming to Malaysia many-many times over the years. What is it about this destination that makes us want to return back? I ask this question myself. There is a lot to like, but doesn't it get old? Sometimes, but don't we all like reconnecting with an old friend, someone who we understand and who understands us, someone who doesn't judge us while we accept their imperfections? It is the sense of familiarity and coziness that heals and nurtures us, and just when we think that we have figured it all out and there are no surprises - bang, here it is - the new features and traits that make us raise our eyebrows and realize there is a lot more to learn about our old friend...
KUALA LUMPUR
Kuala Lumpur the Traditional
Having a diverse ethnic history and heritage, Malaysia has a lot of traditions that are reflected all around us - architecture, culture, food, and they way people relate to each other. There are three distinct ethnic origins here - Malay, Chinese, and Indian. It is not a relationship without challenges, but it is certainly a vibrant and cohesive coexistence that is impossible not to admire. The capital Kuala Lumpur is no exception. Colourful festivals and rituals, parades and celebrations, sounds and smells - everyday it feels stimulating and exotic to be here and experience the plethora of this unique culture fusion. We are also fortunate to have several old college friends who were born and raised here, and meeting with them when we visit only adds to the fun of the journey.
Kuala Lumpur the Modern
I decided to try something different this time around and booked us a studio in the neighbourhood called Brickfields. It was located within a short walking distance to a major transportation hub connecting with all areas of the city, and we were surrounded by plethora of wonderful local eateries and colourful little neighborhoods. From the rooftop of our building we had spectacular panoramic views over Kuala Lumpur's modern landmarks, and we actually enjoyed several rounds of celebratory fireworks over the city during our stay there. We also had an infinity pool that looked especially pretty during the night hours adding a special touch to our experience of the modern side of the city. I should mention that normally we stay in very low key and super budget establishments (which we don't mind), but this new option was a real treat. Especially considering that the price tag was still super reasonable (it was actually a better value than a budget hotel), and the owner lady of this place was a truly wonderful person who treated us in the most welcoming manner. We also appreciated the fact that the majority of other residents of the building were either independently minded travellers or local working professionals, so encounters with them were pleasant and respectful. There were quite a number of various nationalities represented in the building - another indicator of popularity of Malaysia on the international scale.
Kuala Lumpur the Quirky
Walking around the narrow lanes and quirky neighbourhoods of Kuala Lumpur is one of my top delights. I just love all the colourful graffiti wall art that represents various social messages and ideas. During one of my walks, I even encountered a well known local artist who shared with me his artistic insights and approach to symbolism and self-expression. What would likely surprise most visitors is how free and uninhabited local people seem to relate to each other and express themselves. For a traditional Muslim country, there is a surprising amount of quirky art scenes and messages. And, they are not limited only to the wall art - impromptu street performances, music scene, choice of clothing, vibrant street culture, and it seems like the city never sleeps! It is totally normal to go for a walk or meet with friends at a local eatery in all wee hours of the night - people get together and just have a good time in the most unpretentious way... I think in the West we have forgotten what it is like to have a spontaneous genuine get-together without too much planning, when people celebrate meeting each other without a good reason - just to enjoy a friendly chat, a good company, and an old fashioned fun.
Kuala Lumpur the Dreamy
There are so many places in Kuala Lumpur to be lost in time! One moment you can feel as if in one of Scheherazade's stories being surrounded by whimsical arches of Sultan palaces, and just minutes later - you could find yourself immersed in a Chinese dynasty among the historic scenes of a mysterious temple... And, when the night arrives and thousands of colourful lanterns get lit up, and the air is filled with incense and exotic melodies, you know - you have just entered a fairytale. We all long for something ethereal at times - maybe it is our imagination that takes us places, or maybe we just appreciate the dream, even though we can live it just for a few moments...
Kuala Lumpur - the Artistry of Food
There are few places in the world that justify throwing all diet precautions to the wind and instead - surrendering to the simple pleasure of eating. Malaysia, in my opinion, is one of those places. Weight gain concerns are placed on a temporary hold, and taste buds win the battle.
Being an ethnically diverse country, Malaysia is blessed with an enormous choice of culinary origins, and the best part - the most unpretentious attitude. Indigenous Malay roots are complimented with Chinese, Indian, South East Asian and European Colonial influences. Many eateries are open nearly 24 hours a day, and you could simply walk to a local Nasi Kandar in the late hours of the night to get a refreshing cup of tee tarik along with dosa or roti canai accompanied with various curries. And, you would be joining many local people that think nothing of showing up at a restaurant around midnight for a good meal and a chat. Eating out in Kuala Lumpur (and Malaysia in general) is just not that big of a deal! No reservations, no pretentious snotty attitude, people just have a good time and laid back attitude towards their eating habits. In addition to having visited here dozens of times before and knowing the places, we are also fortunate to have some local friends who have their personal favourite eateries. Having local knowledge of the best bak kut teh restaurants or cendol stalls which, by the way, are frequently located in little alleys and inconspicuous neighborhoods is yet another factor contributing to the exciting joy of authentic traveling.
PENANG
Georgetown - my version of La La Land
Our relationship with Penang, and specifically its main city of Georgetown is a bit complicated. Having visited here on countless occasions and having spent a good amount of time here brings a comforting feeling of familiarity - we know places and people here, and even have some local friends that we've known for years. On the other hand, we have witnessed Penang's transformation - especially related to the influx of mass tourism and all that negative connotation that comes with it. However, if a person positions oneself in a right part of town, and mentally (and visually) blocks the piling tourists - Georgetown remains a pleasant picturesque place to enjoy. For me personally, wandering the streets of the quintessential Old Town is my version of La La Land...
Georgetown - Alleys Magic
There is something dreamy about wandering along the narrow alleys in Georgetown. Colourful murals, dimly lit lanterns, unexpected turns, crumbling walls and dilapidated buildings - they all add to the mysteriousness of the place. It almost feels like they transport you back in time for an instant glimpse into the disappeared history... I always imagine who may have lived behind those walls before, what their families were like, what their children were dreaming about, and what happened to all those inhabitants afterwards... The magic of alleys is almost like an antidote to the busy modern Penang which can be left on the outside for a while. It is possible to find silence here and just enjoy the pure imagination taking you back to the past history of the place...
Temples Magic
It is not the religion or spirituality that draws many visitors to some incredible temple complexes around Penang. My long term favourite and undisputed top sight is Kek Lok Si temple. Visiting here during Chinese New Year is incredible. This is the time to witness an almost surreal transformation when tens of thousands of lights get lit up all over the vast temple grounds. And, if one gets the timing right - it is possible to savour both the sunset hours and the moment when the entire 19th century complex gets transformed into something spectacular. We usually spend hours exploring this area, and it never gets old (no pun intended).
The world Upside-Down
It seems like the entire world is upside down these days... So, I decided it is high time we tried to see it from that very perspective. What could be a better reason? So, I found just the place to experience it for ourselves. I have to say the activity was not only unusual, it was a lot of fun, and a great escape from the quotidian reality. You had to be creative to adapt to the new dimension, and then it all started to make sense. Something new for us and a great twist to finish yet another visit to oh-so-familiar Penang...
Finale - conclusions
What I really enjoy about traveling in Malaysia is that it always makes me smile. There is some lightness and genuine feeling of joy of simply being there. It is not a perfect place by any means, but this is a kind of destination that draws you back in... I think we lost that sense of magic in our everyday lives, but somehow it is more likely to find it here. Even just for a day, it is still possible to suddenly find yourself as a Queen or a King, and even though it is just for one day - the magic of traveling still lives on...
And, for that - I am grateful.
posted by Rob and Anna @ 5:19 PM
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