Rob and Anna's travel adventure

Thailand - return of the prodigals

Anna's entry:

It has been five years since we set our foot back on Thailand soil.  It almost felt like a betrayal - how could we stop coming here for such a long time?  In the past we would visit Thailand on an annual basis, but at some point our lives and adventures took us to a different part of the world, and this country has been temporarily "deprioritized".  However, by no means it was forgotten.   It was indeed time to return, so the prodigals have humbly made their way back to the Siam Kingdom...

PHUKET

Having explored Thailand for so many years, there were not that many regions left that we have not seen.  There were a couple of places, however, that we deliberately ignored (and almost boycotted).  And, one of such places was Phuket.  What is so exciting about going to a place that lies on the radar of every lazy non-adventurous tourist?  Nothing!  So, why include Phuket and why now?  Two reasons...  We were already in this part of the world (in the neighbouring Malaysia), and the second  - I found it to be a personal challenge to try and find the REAL Phuket.  There has to be at least some preserved authentic soul somewhere around there - after all, Phuket is the largest island in the entire Thai kingdom covering about 543 square kilometers!  I also had success with a similar destination a few years ago - Bali, another place we had ignored for years, and yet I was able to create a really nice local authentic experience there.  So, maybe I was underestimating what Phkuet can offer in terms of an adventure?  Oh, boy...  How naively optimistic I was...  The simple answer is NO.  But, it was a bit more complicated than that.  We found areas in Phuket that were unexpectedly authentic, however, the areas that were supposed to be more secluded turned out to be a face of destruction.  Here are the recollections of our journey in Phuket...

PHUKET - Old Town 

The Old Town of Phuket was actually OK.  I can't say it wowed us, but we definitely were able to appreciate the city.  It has a distinct Sino-Portuguese architecture which is not typical in Thailand, and I would add - thankfully so, as Thailand is the only nation in Southeast Asia that was never directly colonized or conquered by any Western power.  Phuket also manifested that cute Thai touch - brightly pink colour of vehicles.  Walking around the old lanes was pleasant - as long as you can ignore the hordes of tourists.  

The best part about our visit was staying in a preserved local neighbourhood.  It was located within walking distance to the Old Town, but we barely saw any tourists where we stayed.  The local attitude was laid-back, and we found really nice family-run eateries along with authentic fruit markets from where we picked up delicious locally grown mangoes.  Our room had a view over rarely seen by tourists silhouettes of the authentic local shops, temples and residences.  A beautiful sunset above the rooftops was another welcome sight at the end of each day.

Temples 

It was possible to find peace and tranquility away from the crowds in the Old Town, and temples were a perfect place to do that.  Various ethnic traditions and cultural routes were evident here - from elaborate dragon heads to stately gilded stupas, and all of them were interesting to explore.  To our pleasant surprise, almost all of the temple complexes were void of the presence of tourists, and we could enjoy the serenity uninterrupted.  It was difficult to imagine that just outside the walls and gates there was a chaotic city with crowds and traffic...  And, while walking around te

Walks

Walking around Old Town Phuket was actually quite doable.  Despite the traffic, the pedestrian areas and sidewalks were quite well laid out (with a few exceptions), and many corners of the city had unexpected quirky surprises.  For example, not too far from where we were staying we came across at a random outdoor green space a goat tied up to an elaborate carved chair which was used by that goat as her throne...  And then, there was a two-storey house with human size chicken sculptures guarding the entrance - we normally expect lions or gargoyles, but I suppose chickens might look even scarier to some.  And then, there were religious Buddhist ropes hanging as a casual laundry - that always makes an exotic image to capture.  Narrow alleys with colouful historic graffiti, bright pink vehicles, ceremonial temple courts, sexualized dim sum lunch dishes - all of these incongruous combinations added to an odd mix reflecting diversity of the Phuket city.  

Food

Prior research of where to base us in Phuket city most definitely paid off.  Just a short walking distance from our accommodation we were rewarded with real authentic family-run eateries.  The local neighbourhood food was great, and so was the attitude.  The contrast of what was (or I probably should say what was not) available in the touristy center of Phuket town was quite apparent.  Even the highly regarded enormous night market in the city center was a big downer...  It was crowded with Westerners, the majority of stalls were selling crappy tourist-oriented food at rip-off prices.  We did manage to find a few lovely local ladies selling tasty authentic snacks, and their stalls seemed to be patroned only by the local Thais and the two of us.  Needless to say, retrieving back to our 'hood for excellent and freshly prepared Thai curries was back on our agenda the next day.  

There are opposite opinions shared by Westerners in regards to Thai dishes - you either love it or hate it.  It all depends how authentic it is - could be great (aromatic curries, creamy mangoes with coconut rice and pad thai come to mind), or it could be repulsive (tripe, intestines, chicken blood cubes and obnoxious fish paste that make you want to run away as fast as you could from the staunch smell).  Love it or hate it, you have to admit it - colourful Thai food will never go out of style, it is a sacred cultural experience that is worth pursuing.

PHUKET - Rawai

This is when things began changing for the worst...  What was supposed to be an off-the-beaten-track part of Phuket island was actually a complete disaster.  There were so many things that were disappointing about Rawai that I could vent about to the most unhealthy amount.  Honestly, I would rather forget the ugly destruction of this previously beautiful and peaceful destination...  Yes - Rawai has fallen as yet another victim to the mass tourism, which is heart-breaking to witness and experience.  I honestly can not comprehend how foreign visitors could actually be returning here?  Rawai is loud, polluted, over-built, over-crowded, over-priced, and really not that exotic. In all of our years of travel all over Thailand, I would say that Phuket island (and Rawai in particular) is probably the most disappointing boring experience that we wish to forget.  

Luckily, there were few things remaining - a shadow of the old Rawai, that served as a respite from the insanity of this damaged destination. 

What we liked

Our place

Yes, it truly was our refuge.  It was calm and beautiful, and preserved the charm and tranquility of old Rawai.  It was located along a narrow lane that traffic left in peace.  We had an outdoor terrace covered in vines where in the evening we would consume our meals.  There were no real local night markets in Rawai, and all restaurants were catering to Western tourists (meaning - bad over-priced food), but we were fortunate to find a few local supermarkets where we actually found decent Thai options for our take-out meals.  I know it is a sacrilege to be in an exotic destination and eat from the supermarkets - however, believe me - it was still a better and a more authentic option under the circumstances.  

Our place was a walkable distance to the beach and the ocean - but, the thundering traffic along the waterfront made the experience very limited.  We did what we could to enjoy the local beaches, but there was very little tranquility there.  A few colourful boats and a long extended to the ocean pier - that's about it.  It was possible to see the reminiscence of the old Rawai's charm from decades ago - the place that no longer exists...

Hikes  

I tried my best to find anything that justified my reasoning to come here.  One day I ventured on a long exhausting hike in the excruciating heat of the day in a desperate attempt to escape the despised Rawai.  It was on that very hike that I came up with the following revelation...  Once you accept something for what it is NOT, it is easier to accept it for what it IS.  

It became obvious to me - I had to accept the defeat and find a way to mentally block the non-stop traffic, obnoxious construction noise, annoying masses of tourists, polluted beaches, non-existent sidewalks, and the rest of Rawai's insanity.  And, I found it after all - a tiny sliver of Rawai that still has managed to preserve the peaceful beauty away from the crowds.  I was so happy to discover it, and even though the victory was tiny, it still was like a panacea - there WAS something to enjoy about Rawai, and there WAS still the beauty that the mass tourism failed to destroy.  The views from the cliffs were stunning, and reaching the heights was a journey in itself.  The landscape was truly beautiful, and the best part - there were NO tourists or traffic, or at least yet...

Quirky Finds

How could anyone not appreciate encountering quirky things especially while traveling?  It doesn't matter if any of it makes sense, just interpret at will and do your best to understand.  For example, on one of my hikes I came across hundreds and hundreds of elephant sculptures of various shapes and sizes (including a truck picking up a huge volume of those sculptures and moments later unloading even more).  Apparently, it was an "elephant wish" of diceased Thai relatives, and by donating a sculpture of an elephant to a monastery their wish to be remembered actualized.  And, just a few meters away from the elephants there was a "kvas stand" which happens to be a Russian traditional bread brew drink - but why here, and why is the stand covered in religious Thai orange flower wreath?  And what about all the 3-D sculptures made out of empty beer cans?  See what I mean... 

But, my favourite find was an absolutely best and cheap Thai traditional massage in the middle of the busy road.  I have had the privilege of receiving a LOT of traditional massages while traveling in this part of the world (my top-most experience was in Laos where the Buddhist monks perform the best massages that are impossible to forget).  And, let me tell you - a true traditional Thai massage is the most intimate experience you would encounter outside your family doctor's office.  The masseuse eventually has her (or his) body intertwined with yours, and eventually you might be thrusted on their back, or find your arms or legs completely wrapped around your masseuse.  It is definitely a medical experience that requires a lot of trust from a patient, that's for sure.  And, to my delight, Rawai had an excellent local massage place to relive it all over again (and a cute touch was their special accountant - a sweetheart fluffy dog who was responsible for taking the payments for the services rendered).  So, a nice experience to remember.

KRABI

It felt so good to be in Krabi, a welcome contrast after the obnoxious Phuket...  We had visited Krabi in the past, and to our delight the place hasn't changed that much - the city retained its unpretentious genuine character which is exactly what we like.  Mellow and laid-back, peaceful and easy-going, but still with its distinct style and attitude.  Krabi town is a small settlement, however, it has an excellent night market with a variety of delicious local dishes to enjoy.  It is also possible to enjoy the days while exploring a near-by (and quite elaborate) temple complex, and one can spend hours walking along the river or encountering colourful wall graffiti along the narrow alleys.  A new activity for me here was spending a morning surrounded by mangrove forest - the elevated wooden walkways were picturesque, and a tall observation tower had excellent views from the top platform over the surrounding area.  In the distance silhouettes of the mountains, tiny sandy harbours, and occasional local boats created a peaceful painting, almost with a feeling of nostalgia - the places we have visited over the years, the places we will likely never return to, all the events that happened since the last time we were here...  Krabi town had that understated sense of silence that allows you to quietly feel and contemplate.

PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN

Refreshingly off-the-main tourist track, Prachuap Khiri Khan has a stunning location.  Vast ocean, harbours, and picturesque nature trails.  It is a laid back destination, where slow travel really has its rewards, and it is best suited for a mature travel preference.  In the evening, locals pull their chairs to the harbourfront and enjoy with a group of fiends the twilight setting over the ocean.  Some travellers might find the pace of life here a bit boring, however, it is a very peaceful place perfectly suitable for contemplation and most importantly - the Thai locals outnumber Western tourists (meaning the authenticity has not been ruined by obnoxious stupid partying).

The town is also very popular for cycling, and there are specific trails that have been established along the coast covering beautiful scenery and local wildlife.  Prachuap Khiri Khan's vicinity is famous for a very distinct population of Spectacled Langurs.  These monkeys are known for their super mellow gentle personality (completely opposite of bold aggressive macaques).  If you are lucky, you might also witness super adorable Langur babies - their colour is vibrantly orange, and from a distance they almost resemble tiny  baby orangutans.  When their mothers carry them up the canopy branches, it looks like  a bright fluffy orange ball rolling over the trees - super cute scene to observe.  

Weekends are a big thing in Prachuap.  An extended part of the waterfront is turned into a walking night market with a bazillion of stalls selling anything from jackfruit to stick food.  However, our personal favourite night market was deeper into the city center - old ladies would bring their home cooked delicacies, and the food was super fresh and tasty.  

The only negative thing about this town was a limited option to visit local viewpoints and colourful temple complexes.  The reason being are super aggressive macaques and biting dogs!  The warnings about those unwelcoming creatures were posted around town, and when the locals warn you - it is best to oblige by this advice.

HUA HIN

It has been a while since our last visit to Hua Hin.  Last time we visited here, this was the place of the primary summer residence of the most beloved and revered king of modern Thailand - Rama IX, who successfully ruled and historically navigated Thailand for 70 years.  The king passed away in 2016, but the local residents continue the memorial and candle-lighting ceremonies outside the palace gates to honor the king's memory.

During our visit to Hua Hin this time around, the city presented us with both a delightful side and an annoying edge.  The coastal area and hilltop temples with stunning sweeping views remained striking.  We also were able to find good local hospitality in some parts of the city, and the vibrant morning market with delicious local specialties and locals patrons was still intact.  However, the authenticity of Hua Hin has eroded quite a bit, and got replaced even further by the effects of the destructive mass tourism.  It was especially evident at night - when the previously vibrant street night market - and a major highlight of visiting Hua Hin - became totally pathetic, in my opinion.  We only were able to find one genuine Thai food stall run by an elderly lady and her grandson.  Her home cooked coconut curry dishes were excellent, and prices were quite reasonable.  The rest of the market was a shadow of the old one, with limited selection of local cuisine and total rip-off prices.  Clearly, Hua Hin is almost entirely catering now to simple Western tastes, and is a shadow of what it used to be...

CHAAM

Many years ago we visited Chaam as a day trip from Bangkok, and I always wondered what it would be like to actually spend more time there?  Chaam is one of the favourite weekend places for the local Thai families.  It seems like there are a bazillion chairs and umbrellas get set up along the beach when vacationing Thais are scheduled to arrive.  The vast beach and coastline were pretty, but off limits for swimming - lots of waves and lots of rip tides.  So, what was there to do?  Not much - beach walking, cycling, enjoying sunrise over the ocean.  For us - it was a quiet stop-over for a few days to break our journey to Bangkok.   

The place we stayed at was near the ocean, and the owner lady was incredibly kind and caring.  Every morning she would place free treats for all guests to enjoy - like delicious fruits from a local market, she also made a special trip and surprised us with real chocolates.  For our departure she cordially offered and took us to the bus station to save us several kilometers of walking in the excruciating heat with our backpacks.  This is a kind of kindness that makes the travels all worthwhile!

The food options in town were somewhat limited - yes, there were a lot of street stalls lining the entire length of the waterfront, but they all pretty much were selling the same thing.  However, surprisingly, beach hawkers had baskets with some tasty fresh snacks (and quite cheap).  We also were very fortunate to locate a tiny eatery near our place - with simple tables and plastic chairs facing the ocean.  Once we discovered this unassuming place - we ate all our meals there.  A Thai Chinese lady ran this restaurant all by herself, and her hospitality and food were incredible!  She remembered the tiniest of details about our food preferences, and her authentic recipes and welcoming attitude won our hearts over and over again.  Even now, writing this blog months later, I still remember her kind smiling face...  We are so grateful for this experience.

BANGKOK

My affair with Bangkok started many-many years ago when a company I worked for brought me here on a work assignment.  It was love at first sight.  I wasn't naive and could see all the imperfections, but the raw beauty of the city and its powerful character won me over from the very start.  The connection with the city grew so strong, that at some point I even considered moving here and making our relationship official.  For a good practical reason it didn't happen, but the city and I continued our passionate affair.  Over the years, I came here to cry, to laugh, to accept my defeats and celebrate my achievements.  As a matter of fact, Bangkok remained the place I would think of when life presented me with the most challenging choices and when facing the inevitable crossroads.  The city accepted me with all my emotional wrinkles and I accepted the city with all of its imperfections.  

I haven't been in Bangkok for over five years now, and was really looking forward to reconnecting with the city.  To my surprise, however, this visit felt different.  Walking along the familiar lanes and neighbourhoods just didn't feel the same.  I even began regretting coming here again, and contemplated never returning here in the future.  There was no emotional connection, what happened?  Have I changed so much, or Bangkok lost its powers on me?

It took days to answer this question.  I started accepting the fact that I was a jilted lover, and became one of those numerous passing through visitors that nobody cares about;  it hurt - I can't deny...  But, acceptance is the first step to healing.  And, then - towards the end of my visit to Bangkok and while walking along the Chao Phraya river at sunset something happened...  I began feeling that cozy familiarity, as if the city embraced me again.  It felt comfortable, familiar, and very rewarding.  And, then it occurred to me - this is no longer an affair with the city, it became more than that - an undeniable long term friendship that will forever stay in my heart.  All the images of my numerous prior visits here flushed through my head, and I realized we both changed.  My relationship with the city will never cease, the memories and experiences will always stay with me.  And, hopefully - there will be more wrinkles down the road that both Bangkok and I could embrace...

Finale - conclusions 

Well, was the return back to Thailand by the prodigals worth it?  I would say it was.  Revisiting old places and adding new experiences created yet another journey.  There were some disappointments along the way, but so were the unexpected rewards.  We continue learning about ourselves, and the destination is a pathway to old memories and new self-discoveries.  Coming to Thailand also brought the nostalgia of prior explorations in this part of the world.  And, towards the completion of this particular journey, it became evident to me - the relationship with Thailand is not over yet...  

posted by Rob and Anna @ 11:00 AM