Italy - Rome, Florence, Venice
Anna's entry:
Italy was the final leg of our recent journey preceded by Egypt, Cyprus and Greece. We were actually supposed to continue our travels to Jordan, however, due to the tragic devastating events in the Middle East, the plans had to be changed. I chose Italy for several reasons. Growing up, I was surrounded by Medici stories - my mother was a big aficionado of the fascinating Medici family, and their controversial historical and artistic impact. And, on top of all the mysteries, I myself have always adored the daring Renaissance artists. My longing for something complicated and grande, coupled with fascinating Roman history and incredibly beautiful and romantic surroundings, and the choice became clear - Italy was the place to explore.
What also worked in our favour was the fact that we were travelling off season - meaning we could avoid obnoxious tourist crowds and get more up close and personal with the surroundings and the normal Italian residents. As I have written so often in this blog, the most special and rewarding travel experiences are usually those created in the most authentic setting. And, considering, how stunning the setting was, embracing the local pace of life was the icing on a cake. I knew how special this part of the journey could be, but I did not anticipate I would so much fall in love with this part of the world. After all, behind any mask there is always a revelation...
ROME
I liked Rome from the very start. Maybe because it reminded me of the city I grew up in, or maybe because I was longing to connect with the past and re-create my memories. We arrived in Rome from Athens in the afternoon, and took a bus from the airport. As soon as we approached the city center, the rain stopped and we caught glimpses of what was yet to come. I had found us a place to stay about ten minutes walking distance from the Vatican. It was a real residential neighbourhood, without any tourists. The jolly apartment owner Pietro was also very kind and outgoing - he upgraded our accommodation to include a large balcony to enjoy our Italiano coffee in the mornings. I could hear historical bells ringing from a near-by 16th century cathedral, and being surrounded by or-so familiar architectural style sure kept bringing up the memories from the past I had left behind...
They say that Italians could have a crown for being the rudest nation to outsiders. I could never agree with that statement - on the contrary, my interactions with the local residents were pleasant and always respectful. I loved watching the locals going about their daily activities, and I myself found a great pleasure in being absorbed by the great Rome. Walking around the city was like going back in time machine - ancient history and incredible art creations were everywhere. I could literally touch the masterpieces of the great Renaissance masters - they were present in so many places around Rome, and it made me feel that I was living in a fairy tale - it was so beautiful... Considering my background, being in Rome and seeing the incredible history right in front of me had a very special significance.
In the evenings we would return to our comfortable apartment, and make a few stops on the way to pick up some groceries to take home. There were several supermarkets within a walking distance, and at one of them we made an acquaintance with a lovely young lady who worked in a deli - she kept indulging us in various pizza samples, and sent us home with "specially marked" prices on take-outs. Originally from the Philippines, she connected with us very quickly - we loved our travels in the Philippines, so we had a lot to talk about. In another supermarket near-by, we located a super delicious tiramisu which we would pick up fresh every night to accompany an incredibly tasty (and cheap) Italian sparkling wine. And, there was never a shortage of European cheeses and other treats, so self-catering was very easy. We never had to deal with overpriced tourist restaurants - shopping with locals was fine, and gave us yet another insight into a real person's Rome.
Ancient Rome
The history of ancient Rome is incredibly dramatic - from the most powerful empire that shaped the modern civilization and religious beliefs to the complete dismay and collapse. Roman predecessors affected probably every aspect of the modern world as we know it - from the powerful Julius Caesar to Constantine the Great, and many-many other historical personalities whose influence is revered up till today.
Walking around Ancient Agora and standing side by side with history was almost whimsical. The monuments, temples, squares, columns, obelisques, gates, arches reminded from all directions about history - from the ultimate triumph to complete defeat. And, seeing the ancient Colosseum from all angles both during the daylight and at sunset was a striking reminder of the past...
For me, the culmination of exploring ancient Rome was at sunset from the top of the ancient Capitoline Hill. Walking by the shadows of Michelangelo's creations via Piazza del Campidoglio to the highest point of the hill above the Roman Forum was already super invigorating. Every step we took felt like we went back in time centuries ago. And then the sunset added even more dramatic colours to the surroundings - all monuments were lit up in the golden glow, with the silhouette of the Colosseum in the distance on the horizon. And there we had it - we were looking at centuries of history staring at us from all directions - it gave me goosebumps, but then again I am a romantic at heart with a vivid imagination. Be it as it may, the feeling was incredible!
We
took another long walk by the monuments on our way to the metro
station, when the moonlight was bathing the historical landmarks in yet
another special glow. Near the ancient Colosseum I paused again... The
gladiators, emperors, slaves, spectators... The largest ancient amphitheater ever built - another reflection of Rome's legacy and yet
another symbolic reminder that even glorious empires are not invisible
forever...
VATICAN CITY
Technically not just the city, but also a separate country, the Vatican City is both revered and despised.
And, there are solid reasons for both. I could write an entire blog
dedicated to arguments on both sides, but as tempting as it is, I am
going to skip the controversial nature, and instead - focus on the
personal side of the matter.
For me, coming here to the Vatican was a tribute to my grandmother. Despite witnessing every major historical event of her lifetime, tremendous personal losses and tragedies, surviving both World War I and World War II, my grandmother preserved the most gentle and uncompromised views on human kindness and forgiveness. As a little girl, I would ask her to recite for me her stories, and one of them included the Vatican. So, I told myself that some day I would personally visit this place as a symbol of memories about my grandmother. Regardless of my own views on the religious matters, standing here in the middle of the Vatican and being surrounded by St. Peter's Basilica had a significance way beyond all the masterpieces preserved among the walls. And, the dramatic background of the Basilica's own history only enhanced my memory associations.
I have to admit that the Madonna della Pietà by Michelangelo was probably the most emotional piece that I could relate to. A lot of images flashed in my mind as I found myself in front of it, and it was also very personal. They say that this particular sculpture is the only one that was ever signed by this great Renaissance master. As I walked around under the impressive Basilica's domes, I did not think about the religious matters whatsoever. It was the connection to my past that really dominated my thoughts. Coincidentally, I started a conversation with another lady who was visiting here from the U.S. I helped her with the entrance to the grottoes located under the Basilica with all the famous tombs. Later on she located me while I was sitting somewhere in the Basilica - she gently embraced me and told me softly she wanted to say her good-byes before she leaves as she likely would never see me again. There was something so warm and special about her long hug... It almost felt familiar... And, now, writing this entry months later, I feel so grateful for that special moment - this is something my grandmother would have done when she wanted to take sadness or pain away, and make somebody feel like they belonged...
FLORENCE
(this entry is dedicated to my mom who inspired and taught me to appreciate genuine beauty in all forms, and strive for my true self. She passed away 25 years ago after an unexpected battle with cancer)
...The understated beauty and soft nature of Florence makes this city special and livable. For us, it was the gentle soul of Florence that made our visit unique and enjoyable. Even the apartment owner with the same name as mine, Anna, was an incredibly personable and endearing host. I had reserved this place for us while still travelling in Cyprus, and my expectations were surpassed - Anna was not only the biggest fan of Florence, she was incredibly kind and thoughtful. Every other day she would drop for us a bag of treats or surprises - like traditional Florentine cookies or chocolates, or sweet local wine, and she even thought of procuring for us tram tickets and a complimentary invitation to try a delicious coffee and croissants at a local cafe downstairs. City residents also seemed easy going, and their unhurried way added to an enjoyable Florentine character.
Florence is incredibly historic as well - with the biggest art masterpieces and the most fascinating history. Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Brunelleschi, Galileo are just a few to mention. Walking around Florence and being up-close and personal with the greatest creations and inventions known to mankind was humbling to say the least. Florence also possesses a lot of historical mysteries - enough to write an entire new sequence to Da Vinci Code. An ancient fresco in Florence's cathedral (behind the altar) depicting Christ and his disciples seemingly has a female face instead of Jesus's familiar face as if hinting on the "darkest con of men"... And, what about perfectly sculptured female faces (v.s. deemed out and deliberately unfinished male faces) by Michelangelo at Medici Chapel?
The latter, Medici Chapel (Cappelle Medicee) was a special stop for me... So many stories were told to me by my mother about the Medici family... So, visiting their resting place (and artistic masterpiece in itself) had a special significance. One of the most powerful and fascinating dynasties - from mighty cardinals to the greatest patrons of the art, they were as fascinating as controversial. The Medici family likely spearheaded the entire Renaissance, and their support extended to the great masters, such as Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael and Brunelleschi. Think about it - regardless of their religious powers, they allowed (and arguably encouraged) the revolutionary Renaissance ideas - the great artists dared to place human beings on the pedestal previously dedicated only to the Gods! Likely the most progressive artistic movement under any of the historical powers... And, even today, the daring art masterpieces and the actual history behind them are as fascinating as they are intriguing.
Florence - thank you for your humbleness and greatness, and for allowing me to connect with my mother's stories that I so much cherish...
VENICE
I
had heard very contradictory things about visiting Venice prior to our
arrival here - on one hand the undisputed unique beauty of the city, and
on the other - bad attitude of local residents towards outsiders. So, I
was preparing for both. In reality, our experience in Venice was
nothing short of incredible. Not only the magical beauty of Venice took
my breath away, we also were pleasantly surprised how well and kindly
we were treated by the local
Veneziani residents. We were traveling off-season which played a huge factor in how the
locals perceived us, and in addition - we stayed in a very hospitable place in
the very center of Venice surrounded by picturesque canals, narrow
cobble street alleys, whimsical bridges and historical sights oozing
from all directions, and that in itself was a major mood booster.
It honestly felt like walking in a fairy tale - it was so beautiful and magical. And yes - against all stereotypical beliefs, the locals navigate the entire Venice by walking, and not by gondolas (the latter are used by tourists only). There is no doubt, the elaborate and extensive canals system is also well designed for shuttling around in boats (locally called vaporetto), and the latter is also an incredibly fun and efficient way of accessing the outlying islands (I wrote a separate entry below dedicated to canals and vaporetto) - we thoroughly enjoyed that experience as well. In either case, the gorgeous canals and elegant architectural surroundings are truly beautiful and romantic. There is an entire labyrinth consisting of alleys and bridges to explore various parts of Venice, and I loved every step of the way.
What was also special about Venice was that it felt very real and laid-back. At least, that was our experience. We explored a multitude of Venetian sights easily and independently. The beautiful surroundings were everywhere, and we never felt rushed to absorb the uniqueness of the city. Perhaps, staying in the heart of Venice also contributed to this special experience - we could explore in any direction at any time, day or night. And, getting to know Venice at night was incredible and very special - about that experience follows below...
Venice - night magic
One of the major benefits of staying in the very center of Venice is enjoying this majestic city at night. It is almost like watching an intriguing metamorphosis happening right in front of you - at night the city turns into a blissful place of tranquility. Walking along Venice's narrow cobblestone streets and crossing multitude of elegant bridges over the canals, standing in the center of completely deserted squares while the moonlight highlights the intricate cathedrals, stepping under arches barely lit up by lanterns and encountering
mysterious masks in masquerade shops - it is truly magical... It is so tempting to simply being lost in a maze of weaving alleys and canals - only the reflections of flickering building lights and deserted gondola boats docked near the staircases that reminded us of anyone else's presence. Honestly, while exploring Venice at night, we felt like we had an entire city to ourselves, it was pure magic! In the morning the city would wake up again, but at night it felt like time itself had stopped...
Venice - tribute to canals
There are so many various ways of exploring the numerous canals of Venice. In my opinion, the best (and most genuine) way to truly appreciate the intricacy of Venice's waterways and magnificent architecture is to ride the local vaporetto. This is a truly local way of navigating Venice's elaborate canal system and connecting with the numerous islands and remote neighborhoods. And, the best part is that you could ride this water transport almost for 24 hours with unlimited stops en route! Can you imagine how expensive it would have been to hire an infamous (and touristy) gondola for even a fraction of the time and distance? Sure, we tried gondola once (I knew of a very inexpensive local option) - but honestly, it felt a bit boring (and kinda artificial) considering that these days gondolas are used primarily by tourists. On the other hand - riding vaporetto for hours to various locations, and covering a vast canal system was pure bliss! The architecture along the extensive grand canal was absolutely stunning, and the views were as beautiful as one could imagine - it truly felt like being in a movie or fairy-tale! ! In addition, it was a pleasure to be surrounded by real Veneziani residents and observe their daily go-abouts. We had occasional tourists on a few vaporettos, but luckily they were there for short rides and did not "distract" us from enjoying the Venetian beauty.
We also used vaporetto as
a public transportation mode to get us to our last overnight
accommodation. We chose our very last night in Venice to be a bit
closer to the Venezia Santa Lucia train station for a very early start the following morning - but, we were still located in a historical
part surrounded by canals and cathedral squares. We also were a walking
distance to what referred as "the world's most beautiful
supermarket" - Teatro Italia. It was a truly architectural and
artistic gem (so it gets crowded), and to our surprise, the local
residents shopping there for their groceries were also very welcoming
and courteous. Yet another proof what a difference it makes to be
traveling off-season - in addition to the glorious beauty of Venice, we
also were treated so well by its local residents.
FINALE - conclusions
Well, three more months have gone by... Egypt, Cyprus, Greece, and now Italy. Did this trip meet expectations? It most definitely exceeded them, and very unexpectedly so! Having travelled in over fifty countries one could wonder - doesn't all that travelling make you jaded? My answer is - it all depends on how the travel is done. For me personally, connection to beauty or genuine human kindness is worth every step of the way... Italy, the last part of this recent journey delivered on both. I think it is impossible to feel jaded being surrounded by such greatness; if anything - it makes one feel humble to be privileged to experience it, and long for more...
Italy was also an opportunity for me to connect with my past memories, and through memories to connect with the people I so much loved and had lost. Beauty, history, strength, kindness, vulnerability, and desire to dare, challenge and discover the unknown - I found all of it in Italy...
posted by Rob and Anna @ 7:44 PM
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