Rob and Anna's travel adventure

Anna's entry:

What do Saint Lazarus, Aphrodite, Alexander the Great, Shakespeare, Richard the Lion Heart and Knights of Templar have in common?  Cyprus!  Yes, this unique island in the Mediterranean waters and the closest neighbour to the Middle East region has seen it all...  A plethora of ancient and modern history would stimulate and intrigue the most jaded historical minds - from undefeated warriors to miraculously resurrected saints, from powerful crusaders to classical writers...   And, for all those romantic souls - according to Greek mythology, Cyprus is regarded as the birthplace of Aphrodite - the Goddess of Love and Beauty...  Intrigued?  So was I, plus it is a kind of destination that people may have heard of, but are absolutely clueless what Cyprus is really like.  Exploring Cyprus was also a logical destination to add to continue our journey after Egypt, and thus there was born a plan - we will be heading to beautiful Cyprus to explore it from top to bottom, and trying to include as many regions as possible in our own quest...

CYPRUS - Part I

Larnaka

We have arrived in Larnaca after a night flight from Cairo.  We loved our journey in fascinating Egypt, but after thirty days of intensity (and sometimes - insanity), we were ready for a bit more peace and tranquility.  I have also chosen to explore Cyprus during off-season when we could get to know Cyprus and its local residents without tourist crowds and in a more pristine uncorrupted setting.  

We hopped on a local bus from the Larnaca International Airport, and in about thirty minutes reached the area of our accommodation.  Our place, located right across from a medieval church, was peaceful and comfortable with a mandarin orange tree growing right under our windows.  The very next morning we were pleasantly surprised when a lady-worker knocked on our door and brought us a bowl of freshly cooked and seriously tasty samosas.  We were located in a real residential neighborhood and within an easy walk to a large and incredibly stocked supermarket - fantastic and inexpensive cheeses, wine, humus, dips, breads, etc.  We stocked up on all those delicious supplies, and on the way back to our place we also picked up fresh lemons and oranges from unceremoniously growing fruit trees along the neighbourhood streets.  

We explored the ocean promenade and the beach, hiked to a huge lake with migrating flamingos, walked around Larnaca's old town with narrow lanes and cobblestone squares adjacent to ancient mosques and churches.  One of such edifices was a 9th century church built over and dedicated to Saint Lazarus - who (according to a biblical gospel) was raised from the dead by Jesus himself. After all, Cyprus lies within a reachable distance from Jordan (and specifically - Bethany), so no surprise that due to its geographic location, many high profile figures (including Alexander the Great) made their way here one time or another.

 

 

NORTH CYPRUS

North Nicosia (Lefkoşa)

There are two major and quite different parts to Cyprus - South and North, and their history and political division is quite complicated.  They also happen to be two different countries recognized by some and unrecognized by others.  For centuries Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots lived in relative peace and acceptance of each other - that is until "other" geopolitical powers had to get involved.  Should we humbly suggest the British Empire might have something to do with it?  Agree or not, one thing is undisputed -  the year 1974 changed everything...  As a result of the events in July 1974, the country was thrown into the most dramatic mess and upheaval.  People lost everything - their lives, homes, possessions, dignity... Families got separated by the border, and so did Cyprus itself - a permanent military watch base was established between the South (Republic of Cyprus) and the North (Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus - still unrecognized by many).  Due to the unresolved issues, up till recently it was impossible for tourists to freely move between the South and North, however, currently there are several official border crossings opened up, and both sides of Cyprus are accessible for outsiders.

When we crossed into Lefkosia, it was like stepping back in a time capsule...  It sometimes felt almost surreal - buildings and events froze in time...  While walking around the old town center you could see that only a pile of painted empty barrels and barbed wire between buildings separated two territories, two countries, two different worlds...  Some buildings' facades were covered in vines or tree routes penetrating through the walls or windows.  Many were grand, but completely dilapidated, probably since 1974... We were looking at the history right in front of us...  There was a touch of deep sadness everywhere we looked, and at the same time it felt so surreal - like walking back in time and imagining what had really been happening in all those buildings decades ago before they were left to history right here, under the open sky...

The old city dating back to the 16th century was beautiful and very special - historical ancient market square and mosques, narrow curvy lanes, colorful buildings with melancholic balcony facades...  We settled in for a few days in an old house probably dating back to the 18th century judging by the architectural design style and simplified facilities.  Our large circular room had bayview windows and a small balcony overlooking a residential street.  We could see friendly locals going on with their business - putting their laundry to dry outside the windows or carrying their groceries.  It was very easy and safe walking around the old town, and people were soft-spoken and friendly.  We located a tiny grocery store near the old market, and they had an amazing selection of fresh delicious and inexpensive baklava - the only challenge was catching the time when baklava was delivered.  We also found a tiny shawarma place run by a hospitable local family - the dad and his super helpful young son who loved practicing his English skills and who made sure we had every correct ingredient in our take-out package including the ayran drink to go with their tasty inexpensive shawarmas. 

It was obvious that North Cyprus will be quite different from the South we came from.  And, we were very open to discover what was laying ahead...

Kyrenia (Girne)

Kyrenia is a very special place - not only due to the plethora of various dramatic historical events presiding here since the 10th century BC, but also due to its geographical position and natural beauty.  It is frequently mentioned that Kyrenia Harbour is one of the most beautiful harbours in the world.  It is truly pretty, but it is not just the harbour itself - the actual setting is also quite intriguing.  A notorious 16th century castle built by Venetians over the previously owned by Crusaders fortress presides over the harbour with its ancient walls and dark history...  Richard the Lionheart of England, Knights Templar, King of Jerusalem, Venetians, Ottomans. etc. etc.  The Castle also has a well preserved evidence of torture chambers and dungeons where medieval torture techniques were practiced upon its prisoners.  I remember descending along narrow corridors leading to the dingy rooms with graphic historical exhibits and shocking stories about what was happening here centuries ago...  But it is not only the dark side of history that is present among the castle surroundings - there are numerous access points to walk along the towers and fortress walls with sweeping views of the harbour and beautiful scenery and sunsets.

The residential part of the city is widely stretched along the coastal line, and some areas seem to come with a few peculiarities.  For example, the street where our accommodation was located was guarded 24 hours a day with two soldiers at the gate with military equipment.  They were friendly and waved back every time we walked by, but they always had rifles.  I understand the current status of sensitive political affairs in the North, but why in this very neighborhood?  As far as we could see, the area was totally residential, so why were the military personnel present there at all times?  On a humorous note - that military gate checkpoint was located directly across the street with a large liquor store - so their location seemed also quite incongruous.  Oh, well - a part of traveling is also to go with the flow, no pun intended.... 

The city itself felt multicultural - we encountered people from various countries and backgrounds, and it certainly contributed to a good variety of cuisine to choose from.  On one of our walks we stopped by an open air eatery run by a former Palestinian gentleman named Maher.  He was a fascinating person to talk to and he had the kindest heart.  Every time we would visit his restaurant, we were indulged in his wonderful home-like cooking, and he REFUSED to accept the payment for most of the meals!  No matter how much we insisted (and almost forced) him to accept the payment for the food, he always would come up with an excuse to stop us.  We will always remember his cordial smiles, incredible hospitality and the most delicious traditional food and desserts - people like Maher give me hope in humanity, and make all the travels incredibly rewarding!  We feel that we made a truly kind friend, and were so lucky to experience such a genuine caring connection!

Kyrenia - Saint Hilarion Castle

This castle was such an incredible and memorable experience that I decided to dedicate a special entry writing about it.

First of all, the location of Saint Hilarion Castle is stunning and whimsical - no wonder there is a belief that this very castle may have been the inspiration for Walt Disney's production.  The top of the castle is located 732 meters (2400 feet) above the sea level, and when you look at it from the coast - it looks completely impenetrable.  As a matter of fact, all you could see from a distance down below are the steep rocky cliffs soaring into the vast skies - the location is truly incredible!​  The castle dates all the way back to the 11th century - imagine the construction​ challenges along the rocky cliffs​ at that time...  And, as it is often the case - the harder it is to reach the place, the more interesting it usually is.

Exploring the castle by ascending from one level to another, and views from the towers via connecting bridges and former royal quarters was captivating.  And, there are so many historical events that have happened here over the centuries...  Byzantines, Lusignans, kings, queens, crusaders, conquerors...  Richard the Lionheart is believed to spend his honeymoon in this very castle.  But, the most moving story about this castle is a tragedy of betrayal and revenge that took place in the late 13th century on the very top of the castle -​ at the Prince John's Tower.  It was so unusual and dramatic to walk around the tower steps and along the bridges while imagining the images that must have haunted queens and kings centuries ago...

There is another reason why this castle became a true adventure for us.​  To get back to Kyrenia there was a perfectly acceptable road for vehicles, but it was off limits to walkers because the road was crossing straight through military posts, and unless you had your own private transport, walking along that road back to the city was out of the question.  Getting to the castle earlier that morning was not a problem - a kind local lady from our accommodation gave us a ride (totally for free) to the castle base from where we started the ascent.  However, to return back was a bit more complicated.  The same lady had confirmed for us that there is actually a trail that will take us from the castle back to the city as long as we time it right and avoid winds and rain storms (i.e. falling rocks).  So, we decided to find that trail for the way back.  Our GPS devices got us started on the cliffs near the castle entry.  And once the trail was found - the decision was made.  We walked (and ​occasionally even crawled backwards) all the way from the top to the sea level!  Yes - over 730 vertical meters descended by walking down the​ steep slopes​ trail - all under three hours!  The hardest part was to make our way to the lower part of the cliffs - luckily​ our rocky trail​ did have some markings (and most of the time coinciding with a route in our GPS devices), and it eventually connected us with a road back to Kyrenia.  I remember looking up when we were approaching the bottom of the mountains and looking up - I could not believe all those cliffs we were able to hike down and along...  I also have to mention that I was still dealing with my foot injury, and yet - climbing down the trails surrounded by history and soaring cliffs was so invigorating that even my pain reduced...  There was something about this castle and ​its ​natural surroundings that even breathing seemed easier, and the fear of heights and ​steep trail​ along the boulders somehow seemed less intimidating.  When we reach​ed the bottom of the trail ​and ​were climbing down the last remaining boulders, we came across two local men that were starting their hike up to the castle's cliffs - they were very encouraging about our route and made sure we knew that the rest of the way would be safe and sound.  I also remember how a group of local (large) friendly dogs were walking us down the street on the outskirts of the city​, mm ​just like our personal body-guards,  ​keeping us safe and making sure no one else would disturb us.  And, just before we crossed over to Kyrenia proper - a watchful statue of Knight Templar was greeting us as if marking ​the closure of our successful safe journey - what a great way to finish that awesome descent.  

There was one more person we wanted to see before we would say good-bye to Kyrenia - that was our local cordial restaurant owner Maher.  And yet again - he prepared us the most delicious traditional Palestinian snacks and categorically refused to accept any payment whatsoever. What a beautiful heart-felt finale to our visit to Kyrenia!  Undoubtedly - so far, Northern Cyprus was turning out to be the main highlight of our entire journey throughout Cyprus.

Famagusta (Gazimağusa)

In the middle ages, Famagusta was the island's most important port city and a gateway to the Middle East and from there - the Silk Road.  But, the city was founded quite a bit earlier - around 275 BC, right after the end of the Trojan War.  Romans, Egyptians, Persians, Lusignans, Venetians, Ottomans have left their historical impact on the area surrounding this grande city.  Even Shakespeare chose a part of his dramatic play Othello to take place in Cyprus, and later on the British gave to one of the Famagusta's fort towers the name of Othello Tower.  

 

CYPRUS - Part II

Ayia Napa

We walked through the check-point to the other side of the border, and then a bit further - to a local bus stop which would take us to our next destination in South Cyprus.  As we boarded a modern air conditioned bus, we realized - we just stepped back into a modern time.  Returning back to this part of Cyprus was yet another juxtaposition of the North and South.  The buildings and lifestyle were visibly a lot more comfortable and contemporary, and quite frankly - not that exotic compared to the North, except one part - the stunning nature and coastal scenery continued to be gorgeous.