Saturday, October 26, 2019

Qatar and Morocco

Anna's entry:

After two months of a true adventure in Namibia and South Africa, traveling in Morocco was like going from a PhD program back to the Freshman year...  However, every chapter usually holds some excitement, something special and new that can only be experienced once.  On our way to Morocco we experienced that something special and unexpected - Qatar...
QATAR

How many people do you know that actually think of a Qatar as their "normal" travel destination or actually have made an effort to visit there?  I don't know any - that in itself grabbed the attention.  What I am trying to say is that it is always so refreshing to explore a destination that is off a traditional travel radar.  

We were so glad we included Qatar in our travel plans.  The best past about being there were the local people - their warm kind hospitality was most definitely the best part.  The public bus drivers were eagerly helping us with finding the right bus, hotel people were enthusiastically sharing their local insights (and upgraded us for free to a gorgeous suite with a fantastic view over the city), local eateries were patiently explaining to us their cuisine, local passengers were cordially sharing their suggestions about the city, and even a local beach guard (who was super strict with the local residents) graciously allowed me to swim in my normal swim-wear (and only asked me to put a t-shirt to cover the top).  The latter probably needs to be clarified here - Qatar is a conservative society with Islamic traditions and customs, so a beach outing here is very different and comes with its own set of rules and guidelines.

The residents of Qatar seemed very multi-cultural - actually, we were told that the "original" Qatari people seemed to have moved to live in the UK years ago...  Iranians, Sri Lankans, Saudis, Philippinos, Pakistanis, Kenyans, etc. - a diverse multi-cultural population of a very unique identity that seem to co-exist in peace and harmony; it was so peaceful to observe that throughout the entire time we were there.   I will never forget how a group of Iranian men were so sweet and insisted that I would not wait in line and instead - cut ahead of them and a long queue of other customers to get a freshly baked bread straight from the clay oven...  Those are the little things and kind gestures of strangers that make such a big impact, those are the memories that make you cherish the time traveling in a destination that is so different and so far away from your own home...

 One day, Rob and I decided to explore Doha on foot and walked about 30 kilometers (18.5 miles) - that was a long day, and a very diverse one too...  That day we did experience the only "not-so-pleasant" interaction...  During our long walk around the city (and after my refreshing swim in the Arabian sea), we came across an area that seemed to be surrounded by unusually tall walls.  It was still a residential neighborhood in central Doha - with bike lanes, flower beds and modern architecture.  I took a few photo shots of Rob, and as soon as we proceeded walking further, all of a sudden, we were blocked by a black SUV with tinted windows and a person in a uniform.  He demanded that I surrender my camera to him immediately.  WHAAAAAT?  I asked him why, but he would refuse to answer and looked pretty serious...  I gave him my camera, and he began browsing through my pictures...  A minute later he demanded I would delete ALL recently taken photographs of Rob.  "Why, you don't like the pictures of my husband?" - I attempted to joke.  His cold response was - "Delete them... NOW".  Apparently, we were in some "secret" area, and no photos taken (even remotely) close to it would even be considered.  I am not sure if the area happened to be a police station, or a secret government office, or a "nail-breaking factory" - but, ALL my photos that had been taken in the surrounding area had to be deleted.  That uniformed guy also scanned our passports and seemingly ran our background check in his wicked looking equipment inside of the SUV...  Again, I have NO IDEA who he was and WHO he represented, but we both were relieved to be "allowed" to continue our walk around the city, and were happy to spend the rest of the day surrounded by "normal" lovely Doha residents...



















MOROCCO

Rabat

Rabat is not known to be popular among the places to visit in Morocco, which is EXACTLY why I chose it.  That (usually) means the city, unspoiled by tourism, would likely be and feel real - a kind of place that has been able to preserve its genuine soul.  We actually ended up visiting Rabat twice during our travels in Morocco, and both times we enjoyed it very much.

 The city has history, traditional architecture, markets, waterfront, good value accommodation and transport, tasty affordable street food - and on top of it, it comes with a good attitude.

 Our very first visit to a local eatery was quite entertaining to say the least...  We ended up walking into a restaurant located in a narrow alley not too far from a place we stayed at - in the older part of town.  It was Friday, and couscous was the special dish offered that day - that part we were able to figure out.  What was not so easy to understand was - why our waiter kept bringing us More AND More AND More dishes.   Having traveled for years in many developing countries, we got used to the attempts to be "ripped-off" by some local establishments.  So, we politely started to send food dishes back - it seemed that we already had a lot of food on the table.  The waiter started to look confused and even offended...  The problem was that he could speak only Arabic or French.  We kept pointing out in our electronic dictionaries that we ONLY ordered ONE couscous dish - and he kept nodding, and yet kept bringing more OTHER dishes.  Eventually, we were over-powered and he insisted (in his own body language) that we eat ALL that he had brought...  It was a loooooong day, and we eventually gave up (which doesn't happen too often).  In the worst case scenario, we thought, we would learn from this experience, and not repeat this mistake again.  To our BIG SURPRISE, when the bill came at the end of the meal, ALL the dishes that had been served to our table WERE indeed a part of the "daily special couscous".  Needless to say, we were pleasantly shocked, and the next time we visited again Rabat, we went again straight to this eatery.  We were met with the warmest hospitality.  Even though, we still could not speak or understand Arabic or French, the same waiters were absolutely DELIGHTED we came back.  This time around, however, we allowed them to bring ANY and ALL dishes that came with the meal, and again the price was honest, real, and matched exactly what was posted on their wall.

 Rabat was also a start of my dessert temptations...  For the record, when I got back home - it took me almost three months to loose all the pounds after having indulged in absolutely incredible local sweets and desserts...  Just across from our place there was an entire row of various bakeries making their fresh desserts what seemed like 24 hours non-stop...  I was not the only one bee-lining there every morning (or evening) - locals attacked the treats at least as enthusiastically as I did.  Rabat had its specialty - an almond pastry that up till today I have not found anywhere.  It was super fresh, super tasty, and super cheap.  After my numerous runs to a very particular bakery stall specializing in that pastry, I was given a nickname - "an Almond Girl".  My passion for that almond pastry seemed not only to provoke the local smiles, but also served as an "ice breaker" in our "bakery-savvy-relationship", during which I found out that the bakery guys could actually speak a perfectly decent English (which had not been revealed BEFORE the almond saga).   

Definitely, very happy we chose Rabat as our very first introduction to Morocco, and we always would cherish memories about the kind strangers we met there. 
 












Tetouan

The ancient Tetouan was another city in Morocco that rarely sees tourists (and those who come here, almost always spend only a couple of hours).  I chose to spend two full days here, and again - what a lovely authentic place to experience!  Our room was in the city center with a window over-looking a central square and mountains in the distance.  At night, the mountain would sparkle with all the twinkling lights coming from a multitude of tiny houses built all over the slopes.  Those nightly views kept bringing up associations and memories traveling in La Paz (Bolivia) a few years prior... 

The city had a Spanish influence and had a classy feel to it.  It was very easy to navigate, and it also helped to be able to speak Spanish which was exactly the language we used to get by here.  Being able to actually communicate with the local people was an added bonus.  

Local Moroccan people treated us extremely well and kind.  People would stop on the streets to talk to us or offer their directions. When we walked around the ancient market, we were offered (for free) freshly made sweets straight from a large pan.  Local residents were gentle and patient.  Nobody cheated us, and we were never over-charged.  It was also cold and rainy when we visited, but the warmth of the local attitude made up for any physical discomfort.  

When we were on a bus leaving for our next town, one of our co-passengers was a young guy who told us how grateful he was that we had made an effort to visit his country.  How special and refreshing it is to hear such things!  He also gave us a small gift before he disembarked from the bus -  so we could have a memory of visiting Morocco when we would return home...












Chefchaouen 

After un-touristy Rabat and Tetouan, I was a little worried taking us to the UNESCO declared "architectural gem" city of Chefchaouen.  My primary concern was the tourists and what they may have done to the authentic  of the area.  After all, the "Blue City" has been on a cover of multiple well-known magazines promoting exotic places.  

To my biggest surprise, I needed not to worry.  It was possible that the location we stayed at or maybe the season we were there, or maybe we just got lucky - but my memories about Chefchaouen are very positive.  Unfortunately, Rob had picked up a bad cold and did not have a chance to spend as much time wandering around the city as I did.  But, at least he had a cozy corner room to recover in over-looking the city and a square, and we also were right above the market area that came into full swing one day a week - all the plethora of freshly grown local oranges supplied all the Vitamin C he needed to recover from his cold.

 During my ventures around the Blue City I came across lots of various corners and passage ways and treats that added to the experience.  The place was REALLY BLUE - walls, walkways, stairs, gates, etc. were all painted blue.  It really felt whimsical, and very special.  There were definitely some tourist crowds in the old medina and some hassle associated with it, but they seemed to be gone by the afternoon, and the place overall seemed pleasant.  

Just outside the medina wall and very near to our place, I came across a tiny eatery - among other things, the family were hand-making various varieties of their own baklava.  The posted price was quite inexpensive and I decided to give it a try.  However - every time I would order, I always would get several pieces extra (for free).  I would say "Five pieces of peanut baklava please", and the seller would always say with a smile "OK, seven pieces", and would always throw those two extra pieces for free.  In the mornings the family would be baking their rotis (very similar to Indian style parathas).  They would be served either plain or with a sweet condensed milk or chocolate Nutella.  Every time I would stop by to pick them up for breakfast, the seller would make sure to cut me a piece to try of a fresh one he'd just made for his family, and always would put a little extra Nutella to go with it.  
 


















Fez

After a pleasant Chefchaouen, I was starting to think that maybe touristy Fez and Marrakesh would also be not that bad?  But, nope - they were "that bad".  One big exception, however - once you leave the walls of the ancient medina walls and make your way "outside" - the normal modern city of Fez was great.  Local people were pleasant, helpful, kind and once you return back "inside" of the old city - hassle would start again.

Fez seemed to have an internal identity issue - it felt like the city with a multiple personality disorder.  On one hand we spent a week in an elaborate palace-like hotel that looked and felt gorgeous inside, and yet after a week and several bruises from bumping corners in the narrow hallways and quirky ancient staircases, we had enough.  The location was right in the old medina surrounded by history from all directions, and on the other - annoying lying (and sometimes threatening) touts that were hanging around in the narrow alleyways at all hours.  On one side of an ancient alley - a cheating obnoxious bread seller, and across on the other side - a lovely honest version of the same.  The entire ancient city was taken over by sellers pushing on their carpets, jewelry, furniture, glass-wear, baskets, perfume, creams, meat, fruits, etc. etc.  And then, you go further and there were peaceful alleys where normal people lived and worked.  Carts drawn by donkeys, man reading Koran, women making bread, kids playing football.  It was the normal-feeling Fez...  I wondered what it may have been like growing up as a kid here - among narrow dark alleys that you barely could see a piece of the sky and drowning among the rows of junk for sale...  It must have some kind of impact...

And then, there were THE tanneries of Fez - the ones that NGeo makes programs about.  We had read some warnings about the "dangers" visiting the tanneries independently (apparently some tourists had really bad experiences and got into pretty ugly confrontations with touts there), but I did some research and found a way to do it without any hassles.  It went even better than we anticipated - we spent as much time as we wanted and could tolerate (the smell was intense), and we took all the photographs we wanted without any issues whatsoever.  

We did manage to have some very genuine local encounters during our week in Fez, and they were right in the middle of the ancient medina.  I know it is hard to believe we actually had found a place in Fez that we were treated as a a family among al the tourist mayhem around us...  During one of our walks through a long and vast maze of alleys in the old city, we noticed a tiny eatery, a hole-in-the-wall kinda place that no tourists would go in.  GREAT!  The patrons of eatery were all locals, sitting at basic worn-down tables, AND - they were eating with a great appetite.  That seemed like our kind of place, and we walked in.  Ever since we found that place, we ate EVERY meal there for our entire time in Fez.  The prices were super cheap, portions were good, food was fresh, and the Berber family that were running that place were extremely kind.  Unlike the tourist-oriented restaurants, this place constantly was UNDER-charging us for our meals.  We had to always remind them that they did not charge us for this-and-that item, and they always would reply with a smile "not to worry, it is all fine".  The local customers were also friendly, and we even were offered by several people to try what they were eating so we could sample other dishes.  Now - THAT is a kind of attitude that made Fez special for us. 



























Marrakesh

Having acquired the knowledge in Fez of what to expect from touts and medina alleys, adjusting to Marrakesh was quite easy.  We also kept in mind that (similar to Fez) there must be two sides to Marrakesh as well - the touristy side and the real side.  We were correct on both.  We divided our time to explore both of these "personalities" and tried to keep an open mind.  

I have chosen to position ourselves in a hotel within the old medina city walls - close to the (in)famous Jamaa El Fna square filled with action all hours of the day and night - obnoxious snake "charmers" (a.k.a. crooks) with their "domesticated" cobras on the pavement, monkey "bearers" (a.k.a. crooks) with their "befriended/abused" monkeys on their shoulders, drummers, whistlers, dancers, palm tellers, shamans, over-priced food stalls selling cooked goat heads and orange smoothies, naive tourists and touts - basically a place to get your feel on what Marrakesh is famous for - disorderly insanity.  I suppose if we had not spent so much time traveling in other places (like India, for example), then Marrakesh would have seemed quite exotic.  But, in our case and having experienced so much of it, it just was OK...  Sure, it was exotic - in a sense that the culture was a total juxtaposition to a normal (and dull in comparison) Western lifestyle, but when one travels so much in similar places, what Marrakesh had to offer just was NOT nearly enough.  But, admittedly, Rob and I have been spoiled with our travel experiences, so perhaps we are too cynical about the whole "exotic" thing, or maybe we are just comfortable to voice the obvious...  The local food was also very uninspiring and dull.  With all the mounts of spices in markets and all over town, we hardly noticed any of them used in cooking.  The food was blend, predictable, simple, and nothing to rave about - it was cooked in "exotic" clay pots and "exotic" ovens, but that's about it.  We did connect, however, with one of the restaurant touts who shared with us his insights and technique of how to allure Western tourists and persuade them that the food was the greatest at his place.  So, that was fun to learn and watch him in action.

Regarding the real side of Marrakesh - yes, there is definitely a softer, gentler, and more real side to the city.  First of all, the modest place we stayed at was managed by very kind honest people that made sure we felt good and well taken care every day.  Secondly, when we ventured out of a central zone - we absorbed a more real street action - normal working people of Marrakesh on their donkeys or bicycles, shopping at normal (not tourist-focused) markets and just living their real lives.  We also came across a local budget eatery with basic metal tables and opened to the congested street that served a good hearty food at local prices.  We had all our meals there including the last one (before we boarded the train back to Rabat) - when we showed up with our huge backpacks on the way to the train station.  Through our electronic translator Rob expressed our gratitude in Arabic to the owner who ran the family eatery, and the guy seemed quite touched by the gesture, so he dropped all his "macho persona" mode, left his cooking station and began passionately shaking Rob's hand while other patrons sitting around were observing the entire scene...  We also took several walks to the modern part of Marrakesh (and picked to try some wild growing oranges planted along the major boulevards and squares).  During such walks we stumbled upon other local celebrations and even received some complimentary cookies for being there; yes - it was nice to see the other side of Marrakesh that most tourists so sadly choose to ignore...

We finished up all our nights on the roof-top of our pension hotel.  We could peacefully observe the sunset and stars, silhouettes of stately mosques and colorful satellite dishes; and at that moment, when the Moon would finally come out and the wind would bring a faint sound of a traditional music from the Jamaa El Fna square - it felt actually good being there and experiencing it ourselves... 































Essaouira

After almost three months being surrounded by desert and mountains, one thing seemed logical to add - to spend some time by the ocean.  I had made prior arrangements with a local fellow in Essaouira and booked a room in his apartment.  We had communicated over past several months, and he was diligently waiting for us with a key to his place as soon as we arrived.  His apartment was located right in the old city center and also right on the coast.  We could climb up the stairs to his outdoor roof-top terrace and be right above the ocean.  The winds were very strong and so were the waves.  During our stay, not only we had our own room, we actually ended up having an entire apartment to ourselves - this unique arrangement was lovely - no loud tourists or touts, only the wind from the ocean was thrashing the wooden shutters.  Because we also had an access to the kitchen, we could use the plates and cutlery, and I could enjoy having my tea in a REAL cup.  I know it doesn't sound much, but after weeks and weeks of "rouge" travel, those tiny details are appreciated.  It also helped to have a running (clean) water and a couple of plates for our fruits - we were buying in large amounts local strawberries and oranges which were in season and super inexpensive - sold in push carts and local medina markets.

Despite what we'd heard from other travellers about how they had been touted in Essaouira, we did not have any issues.  We avoided all the tourist-trap places catering to the Westerners, and instead had all our meals at local hole-in-the-wall-type eateries.  We were treated very well, and I greatly enjoyed freshly prepared seafood plates and baked bread along with olives and sauces at very inexpensive local prices.  Similarly, we located a couple of honest local street sellers in various parts of the city from who we bought home-made sweet treats, freshly baked rotis and local fruits. 

 We walked around a lot - the city, old medina and coastal area were very easy to navigate.  Unfortunately, it was my time to deal with a cold and/or a flu.  I think I started feeling the repercussions of all that cold rain and floods (accompanied by perpetually damp clothes) in Fez prior.  I really wanted to keep going and kept pushing myself, but the cold was becoming more persistent and fatigue was becoming more apparent.  Except for the latter, our stop-over in Essaouira was very pleasant.

















El Jadida

Most definitely a place off a tourist radar - it was nice to experience yet again the real Morocco.  It was a kind of place where you would sit down for a cup of soup sold by a local babushka, and a complete stranger would offer you to try their food.  You could have a conversation with someone even though they only speak Arabic and you have no idea what they are saying, and yet you leave as if you were friends and totally understood each other...

 It was also a place to aimlessly wander around along old city walls or medina or waterfront or central boulevard, or just stop by a local bakery and pick up a delicious baklava to enjoy with a cup of tea on a terrace.  We were glad there were still places like this left to visit...













Casablanca

Well, here it is - we reached our last point on this trip.  We came a complete circle - just about a month ago we started here our journey in Morocco, and in a few days we would leave the African Continent from this very city.  

Tourists usually say "there is nothing to do here in Casablanca", and our response is "Good, that sounds like another real place to experience".  And, we were right - local residents treated us with respect and kindness, we enjoyed a different - modern side of Morocco, enjoyed good food, walks, and just absorbed another side of Morocco.  As much as we enjoy trying various local street ethnic food, it was fun to try something more familiar made here in a foreign land - we came across a place that made fantastic pizza.  The place was run by a couple of young guys who seemed to be anxious to see our reaction to pizza they were making.  And, they made a wickedly tasty pizza!  We would start with one, and order another one shortly after - which we would consume on a spot sitting at a table facing the street and all the frenzy traffic around us.

Casablanca was an excellent place to finish our journey in Morocco.  It felt good to finish on a positive note such a diverse voyage, and it also felt good going back home...  







Morocco - Finale
Our very last journey in Morocco was on the same train route that we took a month prior.  I remember arriving here from Qatar about 5 a.m.  This time around we were leaving back to the airport late at night.  There were so many associations and memories formed in the past months - Rabat, Tetouan, Chefchaouen, Fez, Marrakesh, Essaouira, El Jadida, Casablanca...  Images and events were rushing through my mind.  As always, the best memories were associated with the genuine connection with local people.

This trip was a total of three months...  We started in Namibia, then South Africa, then via  Qatar we arrived here - in Morocco.  A true adventure which was worth every step of the way.  I am so grateful we were able to experience at least a tiny part of this vast African Continent. 



posted by Rob and Anna @ 7:22 PM 0 comments