Punjab & Himachal Pradesh, India
Anna's entry:
(thank you, Rob, for processing the attached photos).
AMRITSAR (Punjab)
I also should mention that on the way to the temple I slipped on a step (still being jet-lagged and adjusting back to a developing world's uneven steps and sticking out wires), and horribly injured my left foot. It hurt to walk, so I had to stumble quite a bit on my bare feet (as I would come to find out "my out of commission foot" will give me trouble for the next two months). Some pilgrims gave me a lot of respectful looks, probably thinking that even an injured foreigner is highly motivated to touch the "sacred stones" of the temple. I usually let people hold on to their stories and interpretations, and try to respectfully respond to their statements and believes. What was difficult however, was the fact that I had to keep moving despite of the foot pain. Every time we would sit down under the temple arches to take a break, we would be surrounded by crowds of curious locals trying to chat with us, shake our hand, tell us stories, photograph with us, etc. - basically the usual for India and to be expected celebrity-like stalking. There is no way around it. You just have to get used to it. We would be "stalked" by several groups of followers, which can be entertaining at first, and very exhausting later. Besides, the "attraction" to foreigners was also upsetting to temple guards, who occasionally would chase locals away from us (thank you!), reminding them that they were there for the sacred temple, not the two westerners.
We stayed at the temple through the sunset, and walked back for about 2K to our place. The town of Amritsar (outside the Golden Temple) is outrageously over-crowded and polluted, crossing the streets was basically running around and between never ceasing traffic. On a plus side, having to stop frequently to re-group on street corners gave us a chance to buy some local fruits. The food stalls, on the other hand, that we are so used to from our previous travels in India, were surprisingly hard to find. We tracked down them eventually, but for India the selection was limited and disappointing. We decided to leave the beautiful Golden temple and the town of sewage a few days later, and walked in early a.m. to a local bus depot. On the way, a fire started a few doors down from our hotel caused by arching electric wires followed by a frantic evacuation. Business as usual, we thought, India has not changed a bit in that sense...
McLEOD GANJ (Himachal Pradesh)
Located
at 1770m above the sea level up in the mountains, McLeod Ganj is a
peaceful slow-paced place with stunning mountain scenery, good
value places to stay and pleasant local people. It does get very cold
in the evening and at night, so a double blanket to keep warm is a
must.
The place does attract a certain amount of western tourists, but it is
possible to avoid them if one tries. McLeod Ganj is also the
headquarters of Tibetan government in exile and a current residence of
Dalai
Lama. Unfortunately, the latter does bring a lot of sad images and
stories. Up till recently more than 40 self-immolation have taken place
in Tibet - most were a hopeless protest to occupation by China followed
by violation of cultural, religious, and traditional believes.
Unfortunately, the UN so far seem to have been an inadequate body to
handle the conflict resolution, and many Tibetan people continue to
suffer in silence. Some may say, the issue may be interpreted from
various points of view, however, "Chinization" certainly does not seem
to be welcomed by the locals.
The Tibetan influence in McLeod Ganj
was apparent - women dressed up in traditional clothing selling local
breads and woolen clothing, soft-spoken and gentle, they bring a
definite sense of tranquility to the village. In many ways, it didn't
feel like being in India... Our room (about $5 a night, with a cold-water shower outside), had stunning views over the mountains - we could watch gorgeous sunsets right from our window or a large balcony outside, and fresh mountain air was a welcome anti-dot to the dusty Amritsar. We wandered upon an excellent Punjabi restaurant, which not only came with a delicious cheap food, but also had excellent vista views. We ate almost all meals there, and made an acquaintance with a local nice guy named Raj, who later on invited us to his wedding.
Despite of the cold climate there, the town is over-run by mischievous macaques, who would use any opportunity to find an easy meal by climbing balconies and roofs, and setting up local dogs in night-long barks and howls. We are used to be neighbours with monkeys by now, except it is the first time to see them climbing the pine trees v.s. the usual tropical woods. I remember a few years ago, traveling in Varanasi, I was startled by a monkey staring (who knows for how long) at me straight through the window while I was taking a shower... The macaques can be entertaining and annoying at the same time, but nobody could deny their unbelievable adaptation and survival in the rapidly developing human world.
PALAMPUR-BUNDLA (Himachal Pradesh)
The main and only reason for this de-tour in Himachal Pradesh was the
re-union with our Indian friends who we had met in Nova Scotia a few
years ago. Recently they made a decision to move back to India and
re-connect with their roots. The village of Bundla where they settled
was a somewhat strange place. On one hand, the scenery was stunning -
the place was surrounded the by the mountain tops, rivers, and tea
plantations. On the other hand, it also seemed to serve a highway stop
for long-distance truck drivers that came with all the expected
stereotypes. Due to the latter, the normally curious and inquisitive
local Indians were reserved and shy to strangers, and after all the
attention and hospitality we've gotten used to while traveling in India,
the attitude seemed strange. In addition, at the beginning of one of
our walks around the mountains, we seemed to be followed by a few
strange guys, one of which picked up an abandoned rope on the road and
was making really weird gestures with it. Needless to say, the walk was
over at that point. Our friends, as we came to find out, were also
eager to move on, as they were in search of their new place to live.
Palampur, a near-by town, was quite the opposite though. Friendly locals, lots of smiles, and familiar degree of hospitality. Once walking along the central street (basically avoiding pot-holes, sticking out wires, and uneven steps), we heard the music coming from around the fenced area. We looked over and realized that was an elementary school party. Just a few seconds later, we were enthusiastically motioned in, and as soon as we entered the school premises, we were cordially invited to join the dance party with the students and teachers. We danced a long time with smiling kids who kept holding hands with us so we could change dance partner groups and share the attention with all. The music ranged from a traditional Indian to Bollywood to the Western pop (in an Indian style). We had a really nice time, were introduced to most of the instructors and parents, and at the end of the party were even invited to the school principal office to join tea and dessert with him and his colleagues. We chatted about various issues, had a few laughs, and felt very welcome. This is why we love India and keep returning here - we, absolutely complete strangers, are treated in a such genuine hospitable way; it is the sincere human connection that breaks the borders and gives us hope. I also should mention that a few days later, we bumped into one of the parents from the party who helped us greatly with directions to the right place to catch an inter-city bus (otherwise, without the local knowledge it would have been a real chaos to find the right bus going the right place). After Palampur we were heading for non-touristy Mandi. It should have taken only about five hours on the crazy Indian roads and pin-curved mountain highways. As we came to find out though a couple of hours into a trip, our bus ended up with a flat tire, which was repaired by a young mechanic in flip flops with a questionable supply of tools in what it seemed the middle-of-nowhere. One thing in India to remember - there is always someone somewhere somehow available to help you out...
MANDI (Himachal Pradesh)
It is no surprise that we enjoyed mellow Mandi. Not really on a tourist
trail, it felt real and genuine. There are a few walks a person could
do around the old town along the narrow streets and alleys, as well
as there are some historical ruins and temples. The town is very easy to
navigate, and it is pretty easy to find a good chai and decent food; basic
but cheap accommodation is widely available as well. Though nothing
spectacular, it was a pleasant place to people-watch. Crowds of women
in colorful sari's trying to run and catch a bus, men reading a daily
newspaper over a cup of chai, a donkey wondering around a market, stray
cows nibbling on flowers left on the steps, kids playing in most
unexpected places like between cars and buses on busy streets, all day
long market with shrieking voices of hawkers, etc. We also stumbled upon
quite a gaudy temple (mean it as a complement) attached to a school;
several local people motioned us to follow the stairs to the top floor
terrace. They all kept showing us some eating gesture which usually
looks like five fingers touching the lips. Eventually the curiosity won
over, and we ended up in a large hall where apparently a free lunch was
offered to anyone interested. We joined a group lined up on the floor,
and were welcomed with a smile followed by appearance of a washed
banana leave topped with rice, stewed vegetables, crispy fried papadam, a
couple of chappati's and lentil dahl - the usual vegetarian flare. A
desert of sweet milk-rice pudding followed as well. As always, this has
warmed our heart and put smiles on our faces - just like that, one
wanders around, and ends up eating lunch with complete strangers and
absolutely free. I wish we could transfer parts of Indian hospitality
to the western world... Things like that would bring a genuine
camaraderie and connection between people, don't you think?
SHIMLA (Himachal Pradesh)
Oh, Shiiiiiiimlaaaaaa, how long did we have to walk around and around,
with heavy backpacks and hurting feet, along the steep streets and
turns, to find the place to stay... Normally, a place like Shimla would
have never been considered, but this was an exception. It was a
tourist town, but the tourists were not Westerners, pretty much 99% of
them were locals (many of higher cast and money). We had to see what
India would have been like if it went completely Western, and the town
did "seem" quite Western. If not for numerous bright sari's and spicy
aroma in the air, one could almost imagine a holiday village somewhere
in Swiss Alps, well ... almost... As long as one could over-look
occasional piles of garbage, questionable sanitation and safety, and
jumping monkeys trying to steal anything they can from trusting Indian
walkers. We don't mind any of the latter - used to it and find it
entertaining.
Because of the "mountain resort" nature of the place, the town offered an abundant range of places to eat. We found a few really decent deals. One in the "real part of town" i.e. no tourists, and the other in the "up-and-coming/resort neighborhood". The latter had probably the best chicken thali we've encountered so far traveling in India, and came with excellent variety and amount of food prepared by two young Indian fellows (the price was under $2 which we would expect by now). The place we stayed at (though was a reap-off for Indian standards at $15 a night with included breakfast) had a REAL working HOT water shower in the modern tiled bathroom. I had a reverse culture shock at first... I can't tell you how great it feels to take a real long shower after weeks of cold water buckets... The hot shower came in handy as by night it would get quite cold (due to the elevation and up-coming winter season). I always wondered, how monkeys would survive the winter, but was re-assured by locals the animals are quite adjusted even in the snowy conditions. Apparently, the macaques stick to the roofs and attics, and seem to get by just fine, or at least this is what I was lead to believe. Monkeys in the snow... That's the image I don't think is easily forgettable.
Because of the "mountain resort" nature of the place, the town offered an abundant range of places to eat. We found a few really decent deals. One in the "real part of town" i.e. no tourists, and the other in the "up-and-coming/resort neighborhood". The latter had probably the best chicken thali we've encountered so far traveling in India, and came with excellent variety and amount of food prepared by two young Indian fellows (the price was under $2 which we would expect by now). The place we stayed at (though was a reap-off for Indian standards at $15 a night with included breakfast) had a REAL working HOT water shower in the modern tiled bathroom. I had a reverse culture shock at first... I can't tell you how great it feels to take a real long shower after weeks of cold water buckets... The hot shower came in handy as by night it would get quite cold (due to the elevation and up-coming winter season). I always wondered, how monkeys would survive the winter, but was re-assured by locals the animals are quite adjusted even in the snowy conditions. Apparently, the macaques stick to the roofs and attics, and seem to get by just fine, or at least this is what I was lead to believe. Monkeys in the snow... That's the image I don't think is easily forgettable.
CHANDIGARH (Punjab)
An anomaly city in India with well laid-out streets, logical streets
signs, traffic lights, parks, gardens, and even occasional side walks!
If you start your journey in India from here (apparently it happens), you'd
hate it. For us, having explored India for about five months total,
the city of Chandigarh with it's improved infrastructure was a welcome sight and an obvious curiosity. Unfortunately though, the modern metropolis came
with a modern price tag and very scarce accommodation. We found the
"true" Indian deal though - about $10 a night, the room was tiny and
clumsy, but came with a good Indian attitude (except for the annoying TV
and smoking manager), who apparently decided to be our personal guard,
and would guard the door to our room almost 24-7. We had to share a
bathroom with the hotel employees, who actually were very respectful and
would almost always give us a "right of way", plus not often they'd seen a
western couple adjusted to the "real" life style common among Indian
workers. To our surprise, we bumped into two more westerners in the
same place, who seemingly looked relieved seeing us safe-and-sound in
this dingy place. We ended up spending a couple of night here without
any issues. In addition, our place had a perfect location in the very
city center, and at night an evening market would get into gear where we
would indulge in the local flare. Surprisingly, the food had a
somewhat Chinese twist - lots of soups and spring rolls, but the
wonderful Indian chai was available on every corner.
The city was very easy to navigate by foot, thought the distances were quite long. Because the park had several public gardens (very unusual for pragmatic Indian cities), it was possible to take frequent breaks and find a shade from the heat and dust. One of the more unusual parks in the city was the Fantasy Rock garden. The creator (Nek Chand) had collected almost a life-time of thrown and abandoned household objects and junk items, and recycled them into an elaborate version of "Alice in Wonderland" theme garden. If interested, in this kind of creative recycling, here is a URL with more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock_Garden_of_Chandigarh
In addition, for those curious about history, the dramatic story of Punjab is quite interesting. Under the shy smiles of the giant wide-shouldered Punjabi men, there is a long line of glory, tragedy, rebel, and defeat; however, one could tell that sense of pride just in the way the men seem to carry themselves.
It was time to leave Chandigarh and head out further east. A Punjabi bus conductor kindly gave us his seat in otherwise sold-out bus. His companion, the driver, started up the engine and soon after we were off for the dusty Dehra Dun passing bleached by the sun desert fields, numerous villages and people, whose lives go on seemingly unchanged, just the way they have for the past centuries...
The city was very easy to navigate by foot, thought the distances were quite long. Because the park had several public gardens (very unusual for pragmatic Indian cities), it was possible to take frequent breaks and find a shade from the heat and dust. One of the more unusual parks in the city was the Fantasy Rock garden. The creator (Nek Chand) had collected almost a life-time of thrown and abandoned household objects and junk items, and recycled them into an elaborate version of "Alice in Wonderland" theme garden. If interested, in this kind of creative recycling, here is a URL with more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock_Garden_of_Chandigarh
In addition, for those curious about history, the dramatic story of Punjab is quite interesting. Under the shy smiles of the giant wide-shouldered Punjabi men, there is a long line of glory, tragedy, rebel, and defeat; however, one could tell that sense of pride just in the way the men seem to carry themselves.
It was time to leave Chandigarh and head out further east. A Punjabi bus conductor kindly gave us his seat in otherwise sold-out bus. His companion, the driver, started up the engine and soon after we were off for the dusty Dehra Dun passing bleached by the sun desert fields, numerous villages and people, whose lives go on seemingly unchanged, just the way they have for the past centuries...
posted by Rob and Anna @ 6:35 PM
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