Tuesday, March 04, 2008

Kanyakumari, India



















































Anna's entry:

Kanyakumari is the "Land's End" and the most Southern tip on the Indian subcontinent. Here, the Bay of Bengal meets the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea. It was beautiful here. We went to watch the sunrise above the Bay of Bengal in the morning, and then the sunset above the Arabian Sea in the evening. We used almost the same spot for both. Hundreds of pilgrims were here as well, it could be contributed to the full moon and a lunar eclipse.

On one of our sunset walks along the beach we sat down on the sea wall. A local woman selling something approached us, and sat down next to us; she pointed out to the horizon line. Her English was limited, but I understood that she was trying to get our attention to a certain part of the horizon to watch for a moon. She was correct, in a minute or so, a beautiful golden full moon came out, and threw its light over the Bay of Bengal. It was so pretty! The woman and I talked a little, and exchanged our names. Her name was Ita, and she was a seller of trinkets of some sort. She explained to me in gestures, that business was not going too well, but she comes here anyway, and watches the moon taking its rounds while she is walking around the beach. We sat down together and were enjoying the moon. Then, she reached in her bag, and put two hair pins in my hand. She said she wanted me to have them. I told her I didn't really need them, and maybe she could sell them at some point and make a few rupies, but she motioned me to keep them so I could remember her, and gave me a big smile. I offered her two bananas, and we sat together for a little longer enjoying a full moon rise. Now, when I put these two hair pins in my hair, I always think of Ita, and that full moon walk along the Bay of Bengal.

On another sunrise walk, we sat down near the temple to watch the pilgrims bathing in the Arabian Sea. There were so many pilgrims there, and it was an excellent photo opportunity. A local couple in their early fifties came up to us, and introduced themselves. They told us that came to Kanyakumari just for one day, and that they were very honored to meet us, the foreign guests visiting their country. We had a little chat, the usual stuff - where we were from, our travels in India, our families, etc. A man was a university professor, and a woman said she was just a housewife. "A beautiful housewife", I corrected her, and she began laughing. They told us they had only son, so their family was also small. Then, the woman tenderly grabbed my cheeks in a motherly sort of a way, a kind of thing one would do to a baby, and with a smile said "look at those cheeks!". It was very cute, the whole thing. I gathered that she either liked my cheeks structure, or she appreciated the roundness of them for all this good eatin' I've done in India. :) In either case, it was sweet.

On another sunrise day, I've encouraged Rob to join the pilgrims and take a bathe in the ocean. So, he did. He entered the water with the pilgrims, a middle eastern music playing in the air carried from a local temple, the waves breaking over the rocks, women and men entering the sacred water, what an experience it was! Rob followed the pilgrims' example and splashed his head three times with the water. Then, they all entered the ocean up to their waste. Some pilgrims were looking at Rob with a somewhat puzzled look. He was the only white guy, half naked, non-hindi, sharing their whole experience standing in the water amongst them. A group if local guys sitting next to me watched Rob from a shore, they were smiling, but I could tell they really respected that entire affair. A few moments later, Rob came back to the shore, and his heel was bleeding (from a sea rock he was thrown against). I teased Rob, I told him that now he was a true hindu - not only he washed his sins away, but also he made a sacrifice to the gods with his own blood offering. It was cute actually.

In addition, we took a ferry to the island near by. On the way there we met a family from Kerala (my favorite Indian region), and we really enjoyed each other's company. We were standing in line to buy ferry tickets, and offered them a coconut. In response, we got lots of treats as well, and we kept sending each other treats throughout our trip. They were sad to see us go, and the little boy blew us an air kiss when our boat took off back to the mainland, it was very endearing.

We stayed in a place with views over the ocean, and could watch Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal, sunrise, moon rise, sunset, etc. from our roof top terrace. We are getting really spoilt here, in India, just for $7 a night we had a room with an ocean view, TV, etc. It would be a challenge going back to the Western world, and not getting a similar value. We will definitely have to do some readjustment, and it will take us some time...

Yes - we had a great time in Kanyakumari! Striking and unforgettable sunrise, sunset, moon rise, Indian ocean, waves, palm trees, temples, pilgrims - all so beautiful - I think the images will stay forever in my mind.

Sunday, March 02, 2008

Varkala, Kerala India














































Anna's entry:

Varkala is known for it's natural beauty, sensational cliffs, Arabian Sea and laid back pace. The community lives up on the cliffs among the coconut palm groves. Yes - we spent about a week in paradise. In the morning we would take a stroll along the cliffs surrounding the Arabian Sea, we would sit under the palm trees and watch local fishermen. Then we would have a traditional Keralan lunch, laze the afternoon up in the palm tree house over looking the sea while enjoying a fresh watermelon, take a swim in the ocean, and spend a leisurely evening in a clifftop restaurants enjoying the sunset over the Arabian Sea right in front of us while having a freshly prepared fish curry and coconut rice dinner. Cliff top views, waves, palm trees, ocean breeze, candles, stars, relaxing music on the background... We got very spoilt... In the U.S. a similar life style, or a vacation choice, would cost hundreds, maybe even thousands of dollars a day. Here, in Varkala, we could enjoy it all for under $20!
Besides getting spoilt, we also had a cultural exposure here. One night we were walking by a temple and saw some people gathering. We were invited in by a local guy. He explained to us that every year a family sponsors a three day celebration, and we were cordially invited to join. So we did. We attended two traditional Keralan lunches, a punja ceremony, and attempted to attend an evening stage production, and Bollywood singing. I said "attempted" because the drama performance was in a Keralan dialect, and Bollywood singing was blasting from dozens of speakers, so it was a little too much to handle. But, it was fun. We rented a room from a local guy, it was nice and cheap, but it seemed like every house in Varkala beach was overtaken by ants. We wanted to avoid using DEET, so ants got very aquatinted with us, and felt quite comfortable sharing our bed, eating our food, and building a new home in Rob's computer pouch. In addition, on our last night, we discovered a big centipede, a leech, and a huge tropical cockroach all making cozy in our bathroom; we also had a baby gecko running on our ceiling, but those are very cute. For the record, the bathroom and room were very clean, and recently remodeled, but the tropics make any creature possible to see even in a hotel room. On our departure day from Varkala, bus drivers went on strike, so we had a nice (and hot) 4 km walk to the train station. We refuse to use the air polluting auto rickshaws, thus we've got used to be hauling our backpacks even in the hot tropical afternoon sun. Ahh, Varkala... We will think of you often....

My View - We Love the Leader (Rob's India Entry #12)

"You just missed her" was what we heard many times upon arrival to the Ashram in Amritapuri. The 'her' referred to is Sri Mata Amritanandamayi Devi, the so-called 'hugging mother', also known more commonly as Amma (to me however, she's 'Big Mama Jama'). It seems that we were about a half-hour late to be present in the ashram at the same time she is. One devotee even pointed out that as we were already packed up (with our backpacks), it would be perfectly reasonable and logical to go traveling with her (sort of groupie style), as in, turn around now an go to the town she is currently in route. Apparently many here do just that. In some ways it may be fortunate that our timing accidentally coincided with her departure, as we understand that most of the hundreds (thousands?) of rooms are occupied when she is present.
The title of this entry may be familiar to frequent viewers of The Simpson's, as this was the theme for an episode where the town is seduced by a cult. While our experience here has been nothing like the TV show, as with all humor, there has been a certain amount of parallels and similarities.
Some of these elements include glazed-over expressions from some/most of the 'lifers' (we met people here that have resided for the better part of twenty years), somewhat fanatical devotion (all seem very enthusiast about the notion of following her on tour, and I observed a westerner eating his food with a photograph of Amma propped in front of his plate), a little of an isolation element (a self-contained community [including a western supermarket, cafes, internet, phone, post office, swimming pool, gift shop, flea market, laundry, travel desk, all-important bank/ATM, etc.- in short, little reason to leave {except to follow Amma}], suggestions to avoid the neighborhood [for safety purposes]), and so on.
With all this said, it seems that the organization does mostly good work in the humanitarian sector. I've viewed all of this with a fairly critical eye and have yet to find any obvious issues, contradictions, etc. Regarding the cult aspect, I personally explain it with the notion of my belief that cults and followers find each other (or the followers may even create one if absent). The basic tenets of the beliefs seem sound, love and respect others, and give aide to ease suffering, etc. The religious undertones are very moderate and inoffensive, and seem oblivious to any one religion. Even with my critical analysis, I find this probably the most palatable 'spiritual' encounter thus far.
For us, the stay here has been interesting from a sociological perspective, a mini-resort (we are on the eighth floor of a modern high-rise (with great views of the very nearby back-waters on one side and the also-nearby ocean on the other), with our own room [though no hot water], meals included [VERY basic Indian fare], very near the Arabian Sea [very enviable views from our building and room], and a very leisurely experience), fairly cheap (a little less than $4/day each), and a nice place to chill for a bit.
After a few days however, it will be good to move on.