Yucatan, Mexico - the local way
MERIDA
It has been exactly two years since our last trip to the Yucatan. Arriving at the international airport in Merida brought some memories, and one thing was clear - I was in a better emotional place, and things that were weighing heavily on my mind then have either been solved or accepted as they were. Prior to this trip, we just completed an incredible journey through Egypt and Cyprus followed by Greece and my new found love - renaissance Italy. The Yucatan peninsula was quite familiar, and yet - there were a couple of places that I decided to throw in a mix and challenge myself to find genuine (and not corrupted by tourism) ways and traits.
I wrote an extensive blog two years ago about Yucatan, so I am going to focus on things that I felt were either new discoveries or had a special memorable impact. Walking along a pedestrian path from the airport to a highway with local people waiting for a rickety bus to the city center felt both familiar and comfortable. It was a symbolic choice to start a genuine journey the local way - no resorts, no tours, no packages, no pre-arranged drivers - none of it. We boarded a packed local bus with our huge backpacks - we barely could fit in tiny plastic chairs and half-way blocked the narrow aisle. Nobody yelled at us or showed any sign of disapproval - quite the opposite, local people just smiled back in response to our humble desculpe por favor... We knew exactly where to get off in the city and confidently navigated all the busy non-stop traffic streets and narrow lanes.
For the arrival I chose a new place in the residential neighborhood near Parque Santa Ana. It was an excellent value accommodation - walkable historic area, inexpensive budget price, comfortable room (as long as you remember that ceiling fan was hanging quite low), and the best part was an included and freshly individually made breakfast daily by a chatty local lady. I also chose a specific timeline to be in Merida - the best month (January) to catch a vibrant festival happening all over the city under the open skies. I have to admit that two years ago this month-long fiesta was absolutely incredible, and this year it was scaled down - however, things were still happening every night, just not that 'wow' factor we experienced two years ago. We still danced in the squares, listened to Mayan songs, participated in street parades, and my personal fave - witnessed an excellent modern ballet production that left me in tears (due to the topic and artistry). All events were absolutely free to the public so between market exploration and city walks, there was always something to do. We discovered new parks, new eateries and basically got re-acclimated to start our two-month journey.
BACALAR
I have read somewhere that Bacalar is an affordable version of the Maldives - nothing can be further from the truth... Bacalar is a backwater laid-back local settlement that happens to be located along the shores of a pretty and vast lagoon (that used to be frequented by famous pirates - such as Henry Morgan and Francis Drake). We had visited Bacalar two years ago, and the area has not changed - slow pace, some (but not many) tourists, low-key vibes, local markets and street eateries, local supermarkets, and yes - if one chose to, it was possible to have the place (almost entirely) to yourself. Lagoon (especially on a beautiful sunny day) is stunning, you can enjoy leisurely swims (stay away from the mangroves where there are crocodiles) or kayaking (be mindful of weather forecasts or you could end up in a bad storm like I did on my rickety kayak two years ago). The sunrises are really pretty along the lagoon coast - especially from the fortress hill that you would share with lounging iguanas. The settlement itself is easy to navigate, and there are a number of cenotes within the extensive lagoon to explore along with ancient stromatolites - the oldest forms of life on Earth.
We had a super comfortable (budget) place located on the premises owned by a lovely hard-working local family with free bikes provided and total access to a fully equipped outdoor kitchen. During our visit there were some rainy days, but it was still very easy to explore the lagoon and floating docks, and enjoy stunning wall graffities that local residents were clearly fond of. Of course, there were a few gringo-orineted places to eat and drink, but they were boring as always, and we spent all our outings only at local places. We walked, biked, hiked swam, hammacked, danced - all surrounded by local sights and sounds. It was a repeat destination for us, so most of it was quite familiar, but it was easy, comfortable, relaxing and peaceful. One caveat, however - it is quite possible that in the very near future, Bacalar could lose its backwaters local charm, but for now it was mostly preserved and worked for us.
PLAYA DEL CARMEN
It was raining hard in Bacalar while we were walking towards a long-distance bus station for our ride to Playa. Our boots, pants and backpacks felt completely soaked. Our bus arrived late, but it didn't matter. We settled in the front seats I had reserved for us in advance and were off for Playa del Carmen - another destination we had visited two years prior, and the one I wanted to give more time to explore.
Playa is most definitely not for the shy-type travellers - over the years it gained a reputation of somewhat of a sin city, and deservingly so. It can be obnoxious, crazy, loud, over-touristed, seedy, rough, etc. However, the last time we visited, there seemed to also be a lot of gentle and genuine traits and touches - and the latter intrigued me. Is it possible that among all of the obvious hype there is another Playa del Carmen that tourists are completely oblivious to? I really wanted to find out more and formed a plan. I chose an accommodation option located in a residential part of town, but still easily walkable to most of the neighbourhoods of interest. We were surrounded by a multitude of inexpensive local eateries whose patrons were only the locals (i.e. great authentic food). There were several supermarkets including one HUGE one that sold pretty much everything - from decadent desserts to inexpensive delicious wines. We had a variety of beaches to choose from - further and more isolated ones frequented by the local families - no resorts or loud tourists, just the sand, ocean, palms and beautiful sunsets. It took us a while to walk there, but we had a shaded pedestrian path with lots of murals on the way, and several access points to the ocean. And, I also located a bunch of other beaches accessible from the city side - they were louder, but it was refreshing to jump in the ocean after a long walk along the crazy quirky Quinta Avenida... Speaking of the latter - this is where I made acquaintances with a police dog, and a few local workers who told me stories about the building and murals, and a gallery owner with stunning art pieces hidden in a narrow alley. At night Quinta Avenida would turn into an intense night scene (especially when cruise ships were in town), but there were several spots to enjoy street music, and we even found a small cenote hidden behind a restaurant wall. Local workers had no problem letting us explore, which was nice. In another area of town there was a big night market with various local performances on the square, and an incredibly tasty churros stall - a local family would make them hot and fresh, and we would top them up with chocolate sauce and sweet leche de cabra (condensed goat milk) caramel (the latter was my new favourite, not so much Rob's). We also knew of a plethora of wonderfully tasty and cheap street taco stands run by families over several decades. With rare exception, we were the only tourists eating there, and were treated very well.
Were we able to unwrap and find the genuine layers of Playa del Carmen? Most definitely, or in the very least - we came close to it. Not rushing our time to explore the city, its neighbourhoods, alleys, beaches, markets and having genuine interactions with the local people gave us the best chance to learn about a very different side of Playa. Time well spent, glad we did it.
ISLA DE COZUMEL
Originally known in Mayan culture as "Island of Swallows", the modern Cozumel over-shadowed every possible traditional Mayan notion. It became an extravagant playground for the rich, an affordable party place for the not-so-rich, and a Caribbean winter escape for many others. The island is one of those places you either love or hate - and both notions can totally be justified. Some areas of the island are obnoxiously touristy with every unpleasant cliche manifesting itself freely which independent travellers will hate. And, there are other parts of the island that are totally laid-back and peaceful with friendly soft-spoken locals going about their normal everyday lives - yes, the real local Cozumel is definitely still alive. One notion that both groups would likely agree on is the undisputed stunning natural beauty of the coastal line and the ocean - especially if one is able to reach more isolated beaches and coves.
Isla de Cozumel was another challenge for me to figure out if we could have a local experience, and ultimately discover and enjoy the island without sacrificing our personal preferences for a more authentic local experiences. I have to admit - prior to our arrival to the island, I had placed my expectations and hopes low in finding a peaceful local place. Stories about Cozumel were not flattering. Other travellers warned me it would be a totally wrong choice to spend any amount of time there, except maybe to take a quick in-and-out day trip to the island - that option was totally not appealing. Others suggested I should prepare myself for being harassed daily and non-stop by every tout in town and army of aggressive sellers. Keeping that warning in mind, we cautiously boarded a speedboat ferry in Playa, and soon enough reached Cozumel's seaport. We stepped off the ferry with our large backpacks and started walking along the waterfront towards our guesthouse... Not a single person attempted to harass us or offer to sell us anything, actually quite the opposite - our first impression was how peaceful and laid-back everything seemed!
Our accommodation was about a block away from the ocean, and as we came to find out, was a popular place to stay for months by a few of foreign expats. These residents seemed mellow and respectful, and it felt a bit of a community. Our room was nothing special, but we had a lovely outdoor area with colouful cheerful designs. Mosquitos were a definite issue in the evenings, but we would grab a few plates and cutlery from the common kitchen and take our meals to the waterfront - watching the ocean under us and stars above us. We avoided all touristy restaurants and instead found several locally run take-out eateries. There were also several large supermarkets where we located papaya and other fruits along with occasional pan de coco (macaroons). Local 711 stores had an on-going promotion to come in and try various cappuccino coffees (for free), so getting caffeinated was never a problem. Our accommodation also provided free bikes - they were a rusty under-sized piece of sh.t, but were usable to explore the town and take rides along the coast. To our pleasant surprise, the majority of drivers were very respectful in sharing the roads with us. In addition, we walked everywhere, both during the day and night, and never felt unsafe or unwelcome. Naturally, we had to use common sense and avoid certain areas, but overall - it was totally fine. On several occasions, we chatted with the locals and interactions were friendly and respectful.
We explored quite a few local beaches, and never got a "cold shoulder" from the local residents. The only challenge was finding a good access point to enter the ocean as the entire coastal edge was formed by the sharp rocks and remains of (a previously existing) coral wall. The ocean colours were stunning, but underwater corals were either badly damaged or completely dead - meaning marine life was very limited. I swam and snorkeled pretty extensive distances, and observed some marine life, but overall - marine life was pathetically limited (another repercussion of human impact). I did have a fun interaction with what is called "a sardine run" (was lucky to come across it during my swim along the coast), but overall we had to accept that Cozumel's waters fell yet another victim to human destruction and climate change. One of the beaches did have some excitement though - on a beautiful afternoon, a young crocodile decided to make its appearance on the beach and enjoy the swim with everyone else. A group of lifeguards had to catch it and transport it to more suitable areas.
So, was exploring Cozumel worth it? Most definitely! Overall we found the island to be very laid-back and peaceful, with lots of affordable options for independent travelers to be self-sufficient, stunning coastal scenery, good ferry connections to the mainland, and most importantly - our personal experience interacting with the local residents was pleasant and friendly. A limiting factor was a lack of public transportation across this large island - meaning to explore the island fully from top to bottom one must rent a car (or a golf car) - this was not quite appealing as we did not want to be around tourists or day-trippers. However, between biking and walking (and having plenty of time to do that) we did get a good feel of both the island's nature and the local way of living. So, overall - Cozumel turned out to be a pleasant surprise.
EL CUYO-TIZIMIN - the forgotten road
This part was a refreshing feeling of a true journey when one is reminded about the real diverse world of travel, and not the artificial glitzy pretentious facsimile of what destination is not. Leaving El Cuyo felt like we were stepping back in time. Our rickety bus was making its way rapidly passing lagoons, overgrown fields, and tiny villages. Occasionally we would pause for a local to jump in or jump off... We could feel a burst of wind on our faces through wide-opened bus windows and doors. The roads were narrow and gravely, and sometimes tree branches would brush off the side of the bus. Tiny houses with thatch roofs, simple road-side eateries, laundry swinging on a rope, wandering cattle, locals chatting together during their siesta, random stores selling anything from zapatos to pots and pans. It was the simplicity of things unspoiled by tourism that made this bus road so fondly remembered.
A couple of hours later we reached Tizimin - we had only a few minutes to spare to catch our onward transport to our next destination point. We made it OK, and continued our journey towards Valladolid. Parts of this road looked familiar from visiting here before. We went by the sacred ruins of ancient Ek Balam with its isolated cenote X'Canche - that was quite an experience two years ago. Cycling along sandy paths right after sunrise, being chased by stray dogs, meeting indigenous Mayan land owners, swimming in a mysterious cenote surrounded by jungle... And, the closer we were getting to Valladolid, the more memories started to evolve...
VALLADOLID
Two years after the last visit, Valladolid remains a picturesque town as long as one does not think about its very sad history. Formerly, an ancient Mayan settlement which later on was invaded by Franciscan missionaries, and ultimately in the 16th century colonized by the infamous Francisco de Montejo and his zealots. The Mayan population was either ruthlessly massacred or coerced to convert to Christianity. The Mayan temples were disassembled, and their ancient rocks were moved to be repurposed for erecting cathedrals and churches. If you are oblivious to the gruesome history of the city, you would find Valladolid photogenic and charismatic. But, look carefully - and you just might find the blood stains in the rocks supporting the modern era walls and buildings. In either case, Valladolid is certainly a worthwhile visit for those interested in history and architecture metamorphosis, but for us the city remains an opportunity to connect with the local side of things - especially if one chooses to spend more time here without rushing to move on.
This time I had us stay near Plaza de Candelaria. Our accommodation was colorful and a bit unusual - on the property there was left a piece of the jungle which made the entire place feel a bit of an oasis. An elderly gentleman had been hired to keep the oasis going, and he would come here a few times a week to look after trees and plants. We had full access to the outdoor kitchen, and in the morning a local lady would cook everyone a fresh and hot breakfast. There were a lot of outdoor areas, but mosquitos were vicious. There were other travellers staying there, but they were in and out for the most part. A young receptionist working there was completely fluent in English, and he shared with us a whole plethora of peculiar features and esoteric contexts living in Mexico as a local person.
Having visited Valladolid before, we knew the local markets and specific fruit sellers. I also located new spots where a local lady would bring a big basket of pollo tamales and a gentleman selling fresh big mangoes (not the overpriced ones for gringos, but bagged up ones that the actual local people buy). The local supermarkets had a nice supply of horchatas and tasty affordable Chilean wines. But the star of the show was our newly found tacos-on-wheels stand. Every night around 5p.m. one jolly guy would set up plastic chairs on a street corner and unload buckets with hot salsas, and the other older guy would push his huge cart on wheels with a steaming enormous size pan of cochinita pibil cooked fresh that afternoon. As a primarily vegetarian, I would make an exception here and allow myself to indulge a little on this local favourite dish. A line of dedicated locals would form along the street patiently waiting for the pibil cart to be brought over. Occasionally, the tacos stand would be arriving late, so we would sit on plastic chairs and watch the world go by. One of the tacos fellows liked to sing and we would tune along evoking surprised looks of passers-by that would turn into big grins of approval. The drivers would pause on the street corner and crack a joke or two about our taco fellow, and we all would laugh and continue singing and rocking in our chairs until our taco cart would arrive. We never were cheated or over-charged as tourists, and local patrons seemed very pleased we would join them on the street for this super tasty taco staple. Occasionally, we would see Western tourists walking by - they were puzzled with the entire scene. Why wouldn't they? We were puzzled with their behaviour and choices just as much - here we are, in the exotic destination with a wide selection of delicious tasty local food, which tourists are too afraid to even try, and instead making a beeline to some over-priced boutique'ish cafe filled with tasteless food. Why come all the way here and not be even slightly curious about the local customs?
A journey is not a journey if every corner is familiar, and in my opinion - the only way to learn about ourselves is to accept the challenge of the unknown...
PROGRESO
Another familiar to us town by the ocean that I really enjoyed last time and missed ever since. Despite the expat presence, Progreso managed to preserve a laid-back local feel that makes you feel relaxed and comfortable. We stayed at the same place as two years ago - only a couple of minutes walk to the ocean. In the evening it was an excellent place to catch amazing sunsets and watch the resident pelicans flying near the shore. The town itself was small enough to walk everywhere in an unrushed manner - new murals have appeared around town, along with a bigger supermarket (and a wonderful bakery). The beach, on the other hand, was vast, and one could walk for miles following the coastal line. There were free thatch roof beach umbrellas providing needed shade from the hot sun. It was an entirely local beach, and it was also Carnival time, so the area felt busier than usual. When Carnival was completed, the peace (and space) returned to the coastal area to enjoy the local feel and a peaceful patch of the beach.
I suspect that Progreso would change at some point to become a larger version of itself, but for now it preserved its charm except for the days when cruise ship was in town docked at the world's longest pier (26,709 feet) - which, by the way, is recognized by the Guinness Book of Records. Another interesting fact about this part of Yucatan is that it is located in the vicinity of the famous Chicxulub crater - formed about 66 million years ago when an asteroid (about ten kilometers in diameter) struck Earth. So, yes - Yucatan has its significant share of major events that "shook" the world.
posted by Rob and Anna @ 7:08 PM
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