Rob and Anna's travel adventure

Kottayam-Aleppey-Amrithapuri-Kollam

Anna's entry:

Kerala's backwaters are on the Lonely Planet's list of 10 things-to-do-before-you-die. So, we made it a priority to put it on our list. Here, a network off rivers, canals and lagoons run through a seemingly infinite number of rice paddies and coconut groves, and water highways connect numerous villages together, hidden behind palm trees...

We started our backwater journey in Kottayam, from where we took a public ferry to Alleppey. The ferry looked more like a big canoe with a motor, and the water passage way was beautiful. The boat went through lagoons, canals, and rivers; coconut groves were above us, wild birds swimming across the lakes, and villagers in those tiny houses were waving to us from the shore. Majority of people experience Kerala backwaters by hiring a house boat. We found an alternative way (and virtually thousands times cheaper) - by taking small ferries. In some ways we had more fun doing it that way - our ferries made a lot of stops at villages, and we had an opportunity to observe the genuine life up-close and personal. On one of such rides a group of local school kids were on our ferry, it was a little loud, but we made a lot of friends, and took tons of cute photos.

From Alleppey we headed out South, and elected to stay at an ashram of Matha Amrithanandamayi, known as a "hugging mother", or "Amma", one of India's very few female gurus. That was quite a cultural experience! First of all, I have always been against "building idles", or idealizing anyone, no matte how much charity work they have done. I will probably gain some enemies among those who belong to the ashram, but I have to say it, people - you have created a cult. I respect all the great things Amma has done for the community, but come on - her ashram is a cult! I have never seen so many people with glazed looks on their faces, all dressed the same, all saying the same, all asking the same, all thinking the same... even while eating, some people would have a picture of Amma next to their plate, no wonder to make sure that they are in her sight. I myself felt like a "big brother was watching me" even when I was in my own room. Some people hinted to us that basically Amma was a God in a female body; we didn't argue - everyone is entitled to believe (or not), but why building pedestals? I must admit however, that Amma is a very shrewd entrepreneur, and even her cult is extremely well put together. The building for the guests is well planned - it is a real high-riser with a Western elevator (I have not been in one since we left the U.S.), our rooms offered an ocean view on one side, and palm trees and backwaters on the other. Who would not want to stay here for ever, in that piece of paradise (and some westerners have)... The food choice was another story, but hey, a watery rice can be good for your diet, right? We were free to come and go as we were pleased, so we strolled down to the ocean, took walks around the village (which was not advised for some reason), went to the ashram's own swimming pool (yes, they have it too). And, over all we had a very nice and peaceful time, but after four days we were ready to run away from all of it, back to the real India...

We continued by bus to Kollam. We wanted to see more of Kerala backwaters, so we took more state ferries. Compared to Alleppey, the waterways were not as pretty, but we had a nice experience landing in one of the isolated villages. We were the only "gringos" there, so people at first looked puzzled to see us there, but soon after they warmed up, and began waiving to us. We sat down at a local stall for a few sodas, right next to the road, peeled a pine apple, and snacked on the coconut oil fried banana chips... It was all good...

Kerala backwaters.... We will always have the pictures in our mind of hidden lagoons, waterways around the rice paddies, villages on the shores under the coconut trees, fishermen's canoes, it all seemed so peaceful, simple, and sincere...