Peru
REAL PERSON's PERU
As our bus journey continued on to Piura - our first stop in Peru, the landscapes and my observations along with them intensified. Largest amounts of mango plantations among devastated landfills; hopeless-looking mango pickers carrying large bags of fruits to Bio-Fruit Export Centers; desolate vast desert covered in endless garbage next to private grape vines' orchards and wineries (now when I read description on wine bottles "wine with notes of leather and tobacco", I understand why - it is probably because your wine grapes grew side by side with a landfill burning disposed furniture, leather boots, and whatever was in it). As our bus continued through that desert, I just couldn't take my eyes of what I was seeing, it was almost like scenes from the Mad Max - I was absolutely fascinated by the images and symbolism that were coming from everywhere. I was so immersed into it, that I didn't even want to take time to get my camera out... I remember seeing a family having supper right in the middle of a landfill - they made a table out of various broken pieces of furniture, and a "house" out of several pieced together torn-out plastic tarps - it looked like a totally "normal" way of life. In a covered by garbage desolate desert as far as you could see it, all of a sudden I saw a mammoth of a building, in the middle of nowhere - it was a spanking brand-new Home Decor Center. REALLY??? I also remember aimlessly sitting men, looking like zombies, along the edges of the highway staring hopelessly at the garbage fields - they didn't seem to care less if the closely passing-by traffic could kill them - it almost like they had lost all hope and meaning of life. See what I mean? How could you NOT be fascinated with scenes like that? Needless to say, when our bus finally reached the outskirts of Piura, the symbolism of images I had witnessed was pouring in my head. "Did you LOVE the ride?", I asked Rob when we stepped of the bus (we had different bus seats). "What a shithole!" Rob replied. "I know it", I exclaimed, "I knew we would love this part of Peru!". AND, we were off to our adventure.
PIURA
We chose a hotel located close to Plaza de Armes - the latter name (defining central square) would be carried over to various cities around South America. Having researched in advance our accommodation options, I knew that included breakfast had really bad coffee (if you can even call it coffee) - so I used their boiled milk and secretly was making my own "under the table" - from the tasty Ecuadorian instant coffee granules graciously given to me by flight attendants on the Galapagos-Quito flight.
The central part of Piura was actually pleasant enough - colonial streets, cathedrals, squares. Further walk around revealed dilapidated fences, crumbling building and walls - for me, they certainly had a certain charm of the past. We also had a market adventure. Though it was a real "shithole" as Rob put it, we LOVED the experience! I must warn you though - it was not for very faint-hearted... The market was a maze of messes... Garbage along with a large head of some unknown animal (goat?) was laying in the market parking lot, butchered up pigs' corpses were hanging on hooks, live chickens were in boxes and baskets, etc. A nice local lady was posing for my photos right next to her meat hanging from the metal hooks; then we were offered free local drinks (made from some plants/possibly wheat); locals were smiling and showing us their stalls. We loaded up on great mangoes at great (honest) prices - 20 mangoes for about 63 US cents and a large watermelon for also around 63 cents; we also sampled local snacks at the market - Peruvian tamalales and tostadoes (roasted HUGE-sized corn kernels). Friendly attitude was genuine and provided great photo opportunities among all that chaos, urine smell, garbage, noise, etc. etc. We loved the authenticity - after all, we wanted to see the REAL PERSON's Peru - and so far, every day we had spent here delivered it. We also kept having associations with our travels in India - constant honking, banged up cars from lack of rules and ignored traffic laws. Town seemed really authentic - due to "NOT Being Spoiled by Tourism" factor. Just loved that Real Peru feel!
Piura was also our first introduction to Peruvian culinary adventure. Outside the market, we tried a local street specialty - coconut-molasses sweets (in a shape of a small pancake), great (real) chocolate cake from a local supermarket bakery, and an ice-cream cone of a strange (but tasty) local fruit flavour. We also were introduced to a local style (and very popular) hamburger sold from a stall-on-wheels - thinly cut french-fries were put on top of burgers and under the bun, then dressed up with mayo, local (tasty) ketchup and tangy mustard - they were actually quite good and very filling. Among several other things, we even ended up at an actual sit-down restaurant (with a table cloth!) to try several Peruvian specialties - ceviche (raw seafood marinated and served with onions, lime juice and cilantro), followed by stewed goat served with rice and beans in yam sauce (was actually super tasty and reminded us of Indian style cooking), and accompanied by fresh maracuya (passion fruit) juice (delicious!) - it tasted like cola spiced up with cinnamon - the ENTIRE dinner was about $4.30 per person. This is what you get when you travel in a real person's Peru - one day exploring local markets with an animal head laying around a parking lot and sellers posing with pigs' corpses on hooks - and the next day having a goat stew for supper. When you "go local", prepare for "locco" experiences - they make travel a lot more interesting.
CATACAOS
...was out side trip from Piura. To get there we had to take a collectivo - a bit different from their counterpart in Mexico. These ones were basically a private vehicle with a set price, and they would depart once four passengers would fill up the seats. We were prepared for some shenanigans (we try and avoid all non-public modes of transport), but to our pleasant surprise, honest local prices were charged both ways - another benefit traveling off-the-regular-tourist-trail.
TRANSIT CHICLAYO-TRUJILLO
Our bus route continued taking us through the desert - in parts horribly polluted, and I would even say "obnoxiously polluted" with plastic garbage - we have seen so much of it by now, it is depressing. Once in a while, a refreshing scenery of olives' orchards and vegetation fields, and indigenous locals dressed in beautiful brightly couloured attire were a welcome sight. The outskirts of Trujillo were a "normal shithole" - meaning pollution, piles of garbage along streets and roads, constant honking, ruler-less driving, and passed-out local guys sleeping on road dividers. In short, the familiar sight by now.
TRUJILLO
Anna's entry:
Including Peru in our South American journey was a logical thing to do, however, on one condition - no Machu Picchu, or any places on a MAJOR well-known tourist-trail destination. No that we would not enjoy Machu Picchu
itself (though we have seen and done quite a few things like that by
now), but what we really wanted to avoid was the tourist crowds, and
thus their impact on the local population - meaning, the genuine
cultural interaction usually goes to zero, along with exoticism and true
adventure spirit... So, my proposed route was the rarely visited and
explored North Western Peru. It turned out to be the right colourful
choice for us, though some may find parts of it somewhat intense. Here
is our story...
ECUADOR-PERU TRANSIT
We left Loja, Ecuador early in the morning, our bus ride took us around gorgeous peaceful Andes mountains covered in clouds and curvy roads with occasional donkeys and goats... Several hours passed, and our bus made it to a border with Peru - the immediate contrast was apparent. Immigration posts were stationed in small weather-ridden shacks, stray thin cows were wandering around, bare-footed locals were walking along the highway, and motorcycle taxis (v.s. comfortable modern vehicles in Ecuador) were the major luxury mode of transportation. When our long-distance bus was going though local Peruvian villages - everything seemed to come to a stop and we got stares and awe - it was like arriving in town on top of an elephant... We knew we were up to a good start!
We left Loja, Ecuador early in the morning, our bus ride took us around gorgeous peaceful Andes mountains covered in clouds and curvy roads with occasional donkeys and goats... Several hours passed, and our bus made it to a border with Peru - the immediate contrast was apparent. Immigration posts were stationed in small weather-ridden shacks, stray thin cows were wandering around, bare-footed locals were walking along the highway, and motorcycle taxis (v.s. comfortable modern vehicles in Ecuador) were the major luxury mode of transportation. When our long-distance bus was going though local Peruvian villages - everything seemed to come to a stop and we got stares and awe - it was like arriving in town on top of an elephant... We knew we were up to a good start!
As our bus journey continued on to Piura - our first stop in Peru, the landscapes and my observations along with them intensified. Largest amounts of mango plantations among devastated landfills; hopeless-looking mango pickers carrying large bags of fruits to Bio-Fruit Export Centers; desolate vast desert covered in endless garbage next to private grape vines' orchards and wineries (now when I read description on wine bottles "wine with notes of leather and tobacco", I understand why - it is probably because your wine grapes grew side by side with a landfill burning disposed furniture, leather boots, and whatever was in it). As our bus continued through that desert, I just couldn't take my eyes of what I was seeing, it was almost like scenes from the Mad Max - I was absolutely fascinated by the images and symbolism that were coming from everywhere. I was so immersed into it, that I didn't even want to take time to get my camera out... I remember seeing a family having supper right in the middle of a landfill - they made a table out of various broken pieces of furniture, and a "house" out of several pieced together torn-out plastic tarps - it looked like a totally "normal" way of life. In a covered by garbage desolate desert as far as you could see it, all of a sudden I saw a mammoth of a building, in the middle of nowhere - it was a spanking brand-new Home Decor Center. REALLY??? I also remember aimlessly sitting men, looking like zombies, along the edges of the highway staring hopelessly at the garbage fields - they didn't seem to care less if the closely passing-by traffic could kill them - it almost like they had lost all hope and meaning of life. See what I mean? How could you NOT be fascinated with scenes like that? Needless to say, when our bus finally reached the outskirts of Piura, the symbolism of images I had witnessed was pouring in my head. "Did you LOVE the ride?", I asked Rob when we stepped of the bus (we had different bus seats). "What a shithole!" Rob replied. "I know it", I exclaimed, "I knew we would love this part of Peru!". AND, we were off to our adventure.
PIURA
We chose a hotel located close to Plaza de Armes - the latter name (defining central square) would be carried over to various cities around South America. Having researched in advance our accommodation options, I knew that included breakfast had really bad coffee (if you can even call it coffee) - so I used their boiled milk and secretly was making my own "under the table" - from the tasty Ecuadorian instant coffee granules graciously given to me by flight attendants on the Galapagos-Quito flight.
The central part of Piura was actually pleasant enough - colonial streets, cathedrals, squares. Further walk around revealed dilapidated fences, crumbling building and walls - for me, they certainly had a certain charm of the past. We also had a market adventure. Though it was a real "shithole" as Rob put it, we LOVED the experience! I must warn you though - it was not for very faint-hearted... The market was a maze of messes... Garbage along with a large head of some unknown animal (goat?) was laying in the market parking lot, butchered up pigs' corpses were hanging on hooks, live chickens were in boxes and baskets, etc. A nice local lady was posing for my photos right next to her meat hanging from the metal hooks; then we were offered free local drinks (made from some plants/possibly wheat); locals were smiling and showing us their stalls. We loaded up on great mangoes at great (honest) prices - 20 mangoes for about 63 US cents and a large watermelon for also around 63 cents; we also sampled local snacks at the market - Peruvian tamalales and tostadoes (roasted HUGE-sized corn kernels). Friendly attitude was genuine and provided great photo opportunities among all that chaos, urine smell, garbage, noise, etc. etc. We loved the authenticity - after all, we wanted to see the REAL PERSON's Peru - and so far, every day we had spent here delivered it. We also kept having associations with our travels in India - constant honking, banged up cars from lack of rules and ignored traffic laws. Town seemed really authentic - due to "NOT Being Spoiled by Tourism" factor. Just loved that Real Peru feel!
Piura was also our first introduction to Peruvian culinary adventure. Outside the market, we tried a local street specialty - coconut-molasses sweets (in a shape of a small pancake), great (real) chocolate cake from a local supermarket bakery, and an ice-cream cone of a strange (but tasty) local fruit flavour. We also were introduced to a local style (and very popular) hamburger sold from a stall-on-wheels - thinly cut french-fries were put on top of burgers and under the bun, then dressed up with mayo, local (tasty) ketchup and tangy mustard - they were actually quite good and very filling. Among several other things, we even ended up at an actual sit-down restaurant (with a table cloth!) to try several Peruvian specialties - ceviche (raw seafood marinated and served with onions, lime juice and cilantro), followed by stewed goat served with rice and beans in yam sauce (was actually super tasty and reminded us of Indian style cooking), and accompanied by fresh maracuya (passion fruit) juice (delicious!) - it tasted like cola spiced up with cinnamon - the ENTIRE dinner was about $4.30 per person. This is what you get when you travel in a real person's Peru - one day exploring local markets with an animal head laying around a parking lot and sellers posing with pigs' corpses on hooks - and the next day having a goat stew for supper. When you "go local", prepare for "locco" experiences - they make travel a lot more interesting.
CATACAOS
...was out side trip from Piura. To get there we had to take a collectivo - a bit different from their counterpart in Mexico. These ones were basically a private vehicle with a set price, and they would depart once four passengers would fill up the seats. We were prepared for some shenanigans (we try and avoid all non-public modes of transport), but to our pleasant surprise, honest local prices were charged both ways - another benefit traveling off-the-regular-tourist-trail.
Catacaos
is known locally for its artisan artwork - not that we would buy
anything like that, but art markets always have something interesting
going on, and in the very least, offer a great place for people
watching. The art work was refreshingly creative - it was displayed
along the colonial streets, walls, stalls and included interesting
interpretations - one of which was incorporating phallus and other
sexual implications in dishes and vases design. While walking around
street markets, we were offered free samples of roasted plantains along with pisco
(brandy) liquors (tasting similar to Amarula in North America). In the
market, tried several fresh juices - mix of local pineapple, banana and
beets (very nice). Every stall offered us free top-up refills - this
is what you get in non-touristy places. Then, we also tried freshly
squeezed sweet orange juice. Then, I picked up a guanabana (soursop) fruit frozen treat. Fruit juices (and their frozen dessert counterparts) seemed very popular around here - maracuya (passion fruit), mora (balckberry), cola fruit
(yes - there is such thing). A local lady shopping at a market shared
with us a piece of a very long fruit (have no idea exactly what it was) -
that actually looked like a gigantic pea-pod on outside. After market
walks, we sat down for a break at a local central park (usually
encompassing a square, often with a fountain or monument). We enjoyed
mangoes (that we brought with us from Piura) while people watching,
along with lamas and donkeys. It was an easy relaxed excursion upon
which we returned back to Piura by a collectivo with a friendly chatty driver. It is so pleasant to feel welcomed, as outsiders, we could really tell the difference.
TRANSIT PIURA-CHICLAYO
We walked to a bus station in Piura,
and on our way there we counted about 31 optometry stores side-by-side
within 3 blocks on the same side of the street. Both Rob and I found it
peculiar, but neither one of us was really surprised. We walked by the
same market we had visited a day prior, and wandered if the animal
skull found there was still laying in a parking lot - it probably
was... We boarded our bus to Chiclayo. Our comfortable (and quite
posh for developing and even developed countries) double-decker bus was
making its way through dunes and desert for about 3 hours. As our road
was taking us through sands and heat, we would catch a glance of
donkeys, goats, horses, dogs, dilapidated buildings, watermelon sellers,
honey and gasoline in bottles sellers, land lots for sale and even
occasional mirages... The latter looked like lakes in a distance, but
on a closer examination they were still the desert sand... The desert
itself had some garbage, but nothing like the one on the way to Piura,
and no Mad-Max-like images described in my entry above.
After two days in bed, I was feeling better. We made it to a large fruit market where be bought some local fruits, and a supermarket where I picked up farmers' fresh cheese, delicious olives, local grapes and sangria. Mediterranean-like lunch was yum (even though it didn't stay in my stomach for too long). For supper, we tried freshly made tamales which we bought from a street seller. We also visited so-called Witches' Market - a very popular among the locals. Herbs, potions, hanging dried-out skeletons of goats, pigs' paws, skulls with sewn up lips and eyes, witches' heads, etc. All that weird stuff that makes exotic impact...
A special note - today was my mom's 18th death anniversary. Having grown up in a loving, but poor family, traveling in the developing world evokes a lot of images and associations from my past. In one of the markets, I saw a local grandma buying a small woven basket for her young grand-daughter - the older lady reminded me of my own grandma. I remember how she would buy a bag of caramels or other treats for me from her tiny pension... My mother who passed away from a breast cancer nearly two decades ago was an exceptional individual. She gave me the best love and guidance that made me believe in myself and never give up. I know she would have appreciated the travels and quirky things as well.
CHICLAYO
When
we pulled into the city outskirts, the traffic got more intense. I
noticed that large moving trucks had tree trunks used as the walls put
vertically to carry cargo. Honking and beat-up cars were everywhere.
And yet, the city had the largest "Metro" supermarket we had seen in South America to-date.
Unfortunately, I arrived in Chiclayo sick and slept on and off for
about 40 hours with fever climbing up to 102.5 °F (39°C). A thought of food sent me to nausea, juice and local wine were the
only appealing choices - though a locally produced Peruvian wine was
crap - that scent of tobacco and leather you read about in "wine
elitist" books - it is probably because winery was growing right next to
a landfill (remember my descriptions above?). By the way, I tasted a
scent of furniture in it too...
After two days in bed, I was feeling better. We made it to a large fruit market where be bought some local fruits, and a supermarket where I picked up farmers' fresh cheese, delicious olives, local grapes and sangria. Mediterranean-like lunch was yum (even though it didn't stay in my stomach for too long). For supper, we tried freshly made tamales which we bought from a street seller. We also visited so-called Witches' Market - a very popular among the locals. Herbs, potions, hanging dried-out skeletons of goats, pigs' paws, skulls with sewn up lips and eyes, witches' heads, etc. All that weird stuff that makes exotic impact...
A special note - today was my mom's 18th death anniversary. Having grown up in a loving, but poor family, traveling in the developing world evokes a lot of images and associations from my past. In one of the markets, I saw a local grandma buying a small woven basket for her young grand-daughter - the older lady reminded me of my own grandma. I remember how she would buy a bag of caramels or other treats for me from her tiny pension... My mother who passed away from a breast cancer nearly two decades ago was an exceptional individual. She gave me the best love and guidance that made me believe in myself and never give up. I know she would have appreciated the travels and quirky things as well.
Going back to Chiclayo... After
my 100 trips to a bathroom and finally subsided fever, we returned back
"to conquer" the city. We went back to the Witches' Market to observe
more of a crazy paraphernalia - in addition to skulls and sewed up lips,
today we saw deer's legs/head/whole body, other potions for
love/money/career/travel and other numerous remedies, more herbs, swords
with skeletons and demons. So, if you need it - they probably have
it. Rob also got his $1.70 haircut (not from a shaman, but a nice
elderly man), and I bought home-made cheese and olives (not from a
shaman, but a nice farmer lady). We also picked up more siriguela
fruit from a market lady (we had tried them originally on the
Galapagos, from a tree growing next to our house, but had not seen them
since then). On the way back to our hotel, I also ended up receiving a
full teeth cleaning for $17 (from a real dental office - except their
water was not purified and I was told not to swallow any of it, which of
course, was impossible). When my dental procedure was completed and I
was on the way out, my young lady dentist insisted on giving me kisses
(on the cheeks). So, that must be their tradition/ritual here to do
that by doctors, I guess. When we made it back to our place, I also got
engaged in descriptive body language explanations with our amicable
hotel owner who was very sympathetic to my illness and genuinely was
interested to know what exactly had been happening with my stomach and
bathroom issues - I will leave it to your imagination what possible body
language and sounds I had to utilize with my limited medical Spanish.
All I know, the hotel owner was very kind, wanted to help, and I ended
up receiving generous supply of all toilet paper I could possibly use.
HONESTLY - as I am writing all of this (which sounds pretty normal to
us), it may sound like completely crazy recollections (to others). I am
AWARE of all of it - all I can say is that traveling in a REAL person's
Peru, one gets a REAL person's attitude and moments - and those are the
best ones to cherish and appreciate, I guarantee it - from my own REAL
person's experience. Oh, and one more thing - King Kong cookie DOES
exist in Peru, and it is tasty and REALLY big.
TUCUME - Pyramids Valley
Traveling
in Real Person's Peru does not imply there are no major sites to
explore. As a side trip from Chiclayo, I took us to Tucume Pyramids
Valley - likely unknown to many (probably because they are not on the
regular tourist-trail). Tucume pyramids are actually considered to be
the Largest Pyramid Complex in the World, and the best part was that
there were absolutely no crowds, and for the most part, we had the
entire vast area to ourselves. Valley of pyramids reflected three
ancient cultures - Lambayeque/Sican (800-1350 AD), Chimu (1350-1450 AD),
and Inca (1450-1500 AD). The pyramids reflected the ever-going drama
and interpretation of religion, sacrifice, and politics. We spent hours
exploring the valley, in absolutely excruciating heat, in a desert...
We even ended up exploring "off limits" archeological zone, and
afterwards climbed up to the top of Mirador with sweeping views
over the entire valley all the way to the horizon. The area for
exploration turned out to be so vast and heat was so intense, that a
large water supply we brought with us was not even close to be
sufficient. I also have to add, that to get to the pyramids' complex,
we walked a couple of miles from a public transport drop-off point
around the farm fields and villages. After a couple of hours in the
desert and prolonged hikes combined with steep hills and excavation
areas, we got completely dehydrated. I had just recovered from my 102.5°F fever and upset stomach only two days before, and yet, I was happy to be
there. Something mystical and exotic was motivating me to explore
further and further, and being the only visitors (except for the
archeological site workers) was adding to the excitement being in the
desert surrounded by the ancient presence... I also managed to get us
on some strange trail (not the first time it happened) passing a real
village, horses, goats, pigs, chickens, and some other strange looking
cattle - but the trail eventually did get us to a nice example of
excavated and beautifully restored and preserved adobe pyramid. Later
on through the trip, when Rob and I would visit Chan Chan, we would
comment how much better and explicit was the excavated area of Tucume we
came across that day. Anyway, definitely a worthwhile area to have
explored (even dehydration did not stop us) - when we returned back to
Chiclayo, we ended up drinking 2 liters of water straight. All good.
TRANSIT CHICLAYO-TRUJILLO
Our bus route continued taking us through the desert - in parts horribly polluted, and I would even say "obnoxiously polluted" with plastic garbage - we have seen so much of it by now, it is depressing. Once in a while, a refreshing scenery of olives' orchards and vegetation fields, and indigenous locals dressed in beautiful brightly couloured attire were a welcome sight. The outskirts of Trujillo were a "normal shithole" - meaning pollution, piles of garbage along streets and roads, constant honking, ruler-less driving, and passed-out local guys sleeping on road dividers. In short, the familiar sight by now.
TRUJILLO
We stayed at a family-run place located about
ten minutes walk from the city center. Though large and housed in a
former colonial building, the place was a dump - especially after our
stay in Chiclayo (in a more modest building, but well loved and cared
for). Our room and balcony were OK, except for the blaring "rancherro"
music from the old lady-owner's living room and a constantly barking
dog next door (belonging to another relative of that old lady). Once,
about midnight, we had some demented old "babushka" attempting to force
her way into our (locked) room - we still have no idea if it was the
actual owner, or her relative, or some other guest. Whoever it was, she
apologized (in English) - but, no explanation given next morning what
had happened. On another occasion, the hotel staff (and other guests)
were locked out in late hours of the night - we had been fortunate to
(coincidentally) be let in by another departing guest just minutes
before the lock-out, but everyone else had to stay outside for over two hours.
So, you are getting a feeling of "the nature" of our accommodation in
Trujillo - though, for the record, I must admit we had run into similar
situations (some a lot more anecdotal) in various parts of the world
(the most recent was our accommodation adventure in so called "Love
Motel" in South Korea, to which I fondly dedicated a special blog
entry).
The
city center was quite pretty, especially its central square and areas
around cathedrals, but as we proceeded further, it got a bit grittier
(and real). Just outside the center, however, we stumbled upon a small
eatery run by a grandma and her grandson - the cordial duo provided us
with an excellent meal (for about $2), and very hospitable attitude,
which was very nice considering Trujillo does see an occasional influx
of Western tourists who typically (and luckily for us) stay away, in a
more touristy resort-type area.
We
have tried a bit of local culinary flare in Trujillo - besides, the
usual set menu (hearty soup, rice-beans with stewed or fried chicken,
and a juice drink), we also tried a local traditional specialty - duck
stew. Though, the flavour and cooking style were excellent, Rob almost
fainted when he tried eating some unknown organ served alongside the
duck entree (belonging to the duck we presumed). I helped him to finish
that part of the meal (though I'd rather not eat it under normal
circumstances).
We
walked around a lot and explored colonial mansions, cathedrals,
squares, and a few museums (the modern artwork in one of them was
fantastic - even though I am not a big fan of the modern art, unless it
has a clever witty creative messaging - I really enjoyed it). Many
buildings date back to 17th and 18th centuries, and nowadays house
pompous banks - this was when we learned that no sunglasses were allowed
to enter the building for "security measures" - because even a museum
part of the mansions were still banks' property. We also were
introduced to the local and VERY popular Peruvian folk dance - Marinera. The entire city seemed absolutely "nuts" about it, and it happened so that there was a BIG Marinera dance festival when we were there. The Marinera
dance festival encompassed the entire central square (and even side
streets) accompanied by blasting traditional music, announcements,
awards, and thousands of waiving handkerchiefs in the air (a part and
parcel of the dancing style). Both Rob and I thought it was
entertaining to watch men (not just women) waiving their handkerchiefs,
when usually they try to present themselves quite macho... Besides
spending time in Trujillo, we also took a side trip to Chan Chan, the
details follow below.
CHAN CHAN
Considered
to be the largest pre-Columbian city (built around 1300 a.d.) and the
largest adobe city in the world may sound great, but in my humble
opinion, the complex of Chan Chan is over-rated (for the record I vastly
preferred the non-touristy Tucume described above). We did our
exploration independently - took a public combi
bus from Trujillo, then walked to the complex, no guides, no tours. We
actually ended up exploring Chan Chan twice - almost at the exit point I
discovered additional information, and wanted to return back to the
complex to get a visual on the construction details, so we did a U-turn
(I am lucky Rob is super flexible and has an easy-going nature).
Specifically, my interest was the Tschudi complex - I wanted to see
where the king's concubines were buried. Also, there was a mysterious
set of temple compartments next to a well - apparently, there was a
whole debate what for those were used. Guide book comments stated they
were used by/for soldiers, which did not make any logical sense to me.
My theory was those compartments were either used for food supplies (as
museum records confirmed later on), or possibly for sacrificial animal
rituals, thus the sacrificial block next to the well located next to
them. In either case, the history of Chan Chan seems a lot more
fascinating than the actual present ruins.
TRANSIT TRUJILLO-OTUZCO
Known
as the Faith Capital of Peru, Otuzco has a special significance to the
locals - apparently, every year on December 15th local pilgrims walk 73
kilometers to reach this place as a testimony of their faith. And, it
is not just a flat walk - the town is located at a sweeping elevation of
8500 feet! In two hours we climbed from the sea level to the Andes in a
rickety bus on hair-pin curved roads... The scenery was beautiful and
very peaceful... Mountain scenery along with occasional green terraces,
corn fields, olive groves and tiny villages. Fresh crispy mountain air hit us in our faces when we reached our destination...
OTUZCO
We settled in a basic
hotel with mountains views and clouds descending upon them. Our room
was about $7 a night with a bathroom located outside along long maze of
corridors. It felt like a pilgrim rest-house - very austere and very
real. Narrow cobble stone streets, cathedral arches, locals dressed in
traditional attire, slow pace of life and peace... We have not seen a
single Western tourist there, which almost always confirms a town's
authenticity. Locals treated us pretty good as well.
This is where I FINALLY had my CUY (guinea pig) - traditional lunch delicacy cooked for real people (not tourists). As my plate with cuy arrived, and as I was asking for forgiveness and paying my respect and gratitude to the slaughtered animal, a funeral procession and band came by - it was a pure coincidence, but timing just could not be any more precise... The irony, cultural juxtaposition and somewhat shocking nature of all of it, and Rob eventually could not keep it anymore, and burst out laughing... Two older local gentlemen (who also were having a guinea pig for lunch) at a near-by table were watching me eating my cuy. They seemed very impressed I was not squeamish about it, and showed their respect by helping us to select the proper side items to go with it. They taught us that trigo goes a lot better than aroz, and that fresh limes would always go well with it. My cuy was actually cooked quite nicely - it was stewed in a creamy curry-like sauce, was very tender, with maybe a little extra gamy flavour. I was grateful to try it as a real person's cultural curiosity, but would not do it again (I actually really prefer vegetables and fruits in my diet). The cuy traditional lunch was followed by a local traditional dessert sold on numerous carts at a central square - my favourite-to-date cookies! Deep-fried crispy dough packed with tender home-made caramel in the middle, super tasty and super cheap. Otuzco was also the place where we found the tastiest, largest (and cheapest) mangoes - we had to confirm several times we understood the price correctly - four large mangoes for 30 cents. We tried many mangoes around the world, but I still remember the taste of those in Otuzco!
Walking around, watching traditional attire, locals carrying various crops, ladies transporting babies on their back inside the traditional scarves - all peaceful, and it did feel exotic here... Local people seemed very polite, patient, soft-spoken, with good honest attitude - this is why we choose places off the tourist trail.
By now, in Peru we have been in the desert, in the mountains, so only one thing remaining - the ocean. So, next stop is the Peruvian coast.
This is where I FINALLY had my CUY (guinea pig) - traditional lunch delicacy cooked for real people (not tourists). As my plate with cuy arrived, and as I was asking for forgiveness and paying my respect and gratitude to the slaughtered animal, a funeral procession and band came by - it was a pure coincidence, but timing just could not be any more precise... The irony, cultural juxtaposition and somewhat shocking nature of all of it, and Rob eventually could not keep it anymore, and burst out laughing... Two older local gentlemen (who also were having a guinea pig for lunch) at a near-by table were watching me eating my cuy. They seemed very impressed I was not squeamish about it, and showed their respect by helping us to select the proper side items to go with it. They taught us that trigo goes a lot better than aroz, and that fresh limes would always go well with it. My cuy was actually cooked quite nicely - it was stewed in a creamy curry-like sauce, was very tender, with maybe a little extra gamy flavour. I was grateful to try it as a real person's cultural curiosity, but would not do it again (I actually really prefer vegetables and fruits in my diet). The cuy traditional lunch was followed by a local traditional dessert sold on numerous carts at a central square - my favourite-to-date cookies! Deep-fried crispy dough packed with tender home-made caramel in the middle, super tasty and super cheap. Otuzco was also the place where we found the tastiest, largest (and cheapest) mangoes - we had to confirm several times we understood the price correctly - four large mangoes for 30 cents. We tried many mangoes around the world, but I still remember the taste of those in Otuzco!
Walking around, watching traditional attire, locals carrying various crops, ladies transporting babies on their back inside the traditional scarves - all peaceful, and it did feel exotic here... Local people seemed very polite, patient, soft-spoken, with good honest attitude - this is why we choose places off the tourist trail.
By now, in Peru we have been in the desert, in the mountains, so only one thing remaining - the ocean. So, next stop is the Peruvian coast.
HUANCHACO
After
two hours and three bus connections we went from the Andean peaks to
by-the-ocean town of Huanchaco. Difference was apparent - tons of
Western tourists (we had not seen them for weeks), lots of beach
umbrellas (v.s. indigenous traditional clothing we have been around),
Western music (v.s. local tunes we had grown accustomed to). In a way,
it was appropriate to see that contrast, and yet another time to
validate how much more exciting and rewarding it is to be traveling
off-the-beaten track... We took a long beach walk with lots of
traditional (made out of straw) boats that used to be authentic fishing
vessels, but now are utilized primarily for tourists' pleasure.
But, even in the touristy Huanchaco, it was possible to find the REAL part of town without tourists - so much more peaceful there. We climbed a steep hill graced on top with a local cathedral, and watched a beautiful sunset over the ocean. Our accommodation (though run by a genuine Peruvian family) was located in a touristy area. Because after this town we would be heading to (more deprived) Bolivia, Rob and I thought that, perhaps, here in Huanchaco would be our chance to get some Western food for a change (after all we were surrounded by Western tourists here). The first attempt was a mistake - pizza was horrible, the other attempt was a better choice - the lasagna, garlic bread, and pizza were actually decent. But, in either case, it was clear to both of us, that we had to return back to the traditional Peruvian food and avoid all the eateries catering to Westerners. Gentle, softer side of Peruvian locals with their traditional roots is what we enjoy. We were so glad that 99% of the time traveling in this country had been spent in the REAL person's Peru. Our memories would be cherished exactly from and about those places and people.
On our last day in Peru, we headed to a local family eatery for lunch - not a single Western tourist in sight, delicious traditional hearty meal, warm attitude, and a fraction of cost what it would have been in a touristy area. We took another walk along the beach, and got our feel on "picarones" - sold from a stall on wheels. Those were light puffy donuts-like pastries deep fried right in front of you and served with sweet fruit-based pancake syrup - so fresh and so yummy!
We were departing for Bolivia directly from Huanchaco. A public bus dropped us off at a turn to the airport. We walked the rest kilometer and a half to the airport along (what looked like) a normal village street - tiny houses had their traditional music playing, people were carrying their groceries, old ladies were sitting at their door steps, local residents were smiling at us. What a peaceful way to finish the journey in Peru. Choosing the REAL person's part of Peru was definitely the right choice. Besides the diversity of nature, ancient history, and off-the-beaten path gems that we encountered, the most favourite and rewarding part was meeting and learning about the local Peruvian people - the warmth of their heart, gentle nature, patience, and humbleness were the best memories about Peru.
We boarded our plane from a field surrounded by desert and mountains in a distance - they had pretty silhouettes, especially when the clouds started to descend upon them. We also enjoyed a "double sunset" - from the ground up and then from the sky down as our plane took off. Very pretty surreal images watching the sun going down right under us - it was very whimsical... What an unexpected gift and a beautiful way to finish our Peruvian adventure. Our next stop is La Paz, Bolivia.
But, even in the touristy Huanchaco, it was possible to find the REAL part of town without tourists - so much more peaceful there. We climbed a steep hill graced on top with a local cathedral, and watched a beautiful sunset over the ocean. Our accommodation (though run by a genuine Peruvian family) was located in a touristy area. Because after this town we would be heading to (more deprived) Bolivia, Rob and I thought that, perhaps, here in Huanchaco would be our chance to get some Western food for a change (after all we were surrounded by Western tourists here). The first attempt was a mistake - pizza was horrible, the other attempt was a better choice - the lasagna, garlic bread, and pizza were actually decent. But, in either case, it was clear to both of us, that we had to return back to the traditional Peruvian food and avoid all the eateries catering to Westerners. Gentle, softer side of Peruvian locals with their traditional roots is what we enjoy. We were so glad that 99% of the time traveling in this country had been spent in the REAL person's Peru. Our memories would be cherished exactly from and about those places and people.
On our last day in Peru, we headed to a local family eatery for lunch - not a single Western tourist in sight, delicious traditional hearty meal, warm attitude, and a fraction of cost what it would have been in a touristy area. We took another walk along the beach, and got our feel on "picarones" - sold from a stall on wheels. Those were light puffy donuts-like pastries deep fried right in front of you and served with sweet fruit-based pancake syrup - so fresh and so yummy!
We were departing for Bolivia directly from Huanchaco. A public bus dropped us off at a turn to the airport. We walked the rest kilometer and a half to the airport along (what looked like) a normal village street - tiny houses had their traditional music playing, people were carrying their groceries, old ladies were sitting at their door steps, local residents were smiling at us. What a peaceful way to finish the journey in Peru. Choosing the REAL person's part of Peru was definitely the right choice. Besides the diversity of nature, ancient history, and off-the-beaten path gems that we encountered, the most favourite and rewarding part was meeting and learning about the local Peruvian people - the warmth of their heart, gentle nature, patience, and humbleness were the best memories about Peru.
We boarded our plane from a field surrounded by desert and mountains in a distance - they had pretty silhouettes, especially when the clouds started to descend upon them. We also enjoyed a "double sunset" - from the ground up and then from the sky down as our plane took off. Very pretty surreal images watching the sun going down right under us - it was very whimsical... What an unexpected gift and a beautiful way to finish our Peruvian adventure. Our next stop is La Paz, Bolivia.
posted by Rob and Anna @ 8:10 PM
1 Comments:
Hey, looks pretty nice! Visit also museuly!
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