Russia and Turkey
RUSSIA
Anna's entry:
SAINT PETERSBURG
I was standing in the middle of the Winter Square. Fluffy snowflakes were falling down the Alexander Column above me. I looked at the Triumphal Arch in front of me and the Winter Palace behind, then took a deep breath and slowly extended my arms out... "Is it a cross?", Rob asked me. "No," I said, "the wings"... In reality, it probably was a little bit of both. St. Petersburg was the city I had gained my strength, and now - many years later returning here, I felt somewhat a pariah - rejected by whatever was left of my original family. What most people read about Russian history in books or see in movies, had been a regular household conversation topic in my family when I was growing up. There were a few untold stories (for my own good as I was told as a child), and when my parents passed away fifteen years ago, they took with them all the mysteries that I probably will never find out about. Now, I had only the city left. And, yet, sometimes, there is comfort in silence... Palaces, cathedrals, squares, monuments, bridges and statues have witnessed more history and secrets that it is possible to bear, and yet time goes on...
Rob and I spent almost three months walking around the city - sometimes it was so cold that we could not feel our toes. The city's architecture and history was so stunning that I felt I'd never have enough time to absorb it all. Anywhere we would look, a piece of history was right in front of us. The tsars and tsarinas, their reign and betrayal, revolts and revolutions, Dostoevsky and Nabokov, Mariinsky Ballet and the Hermitage, it seemed like every central street or canal had something to say... And, when the night would arrive, and the palaces, columns, bridges and streets would be illuminated, it just felt surreal, almost straight from a fairy tale, it just took my breath away.
Am I being a little too romantic? Perhaps. However, I was also raised on Dostoevsky - so, here is a not-so-glamorous reality synopsis. The gap between the new rich and the poor is mind boggling. The corruption seemed to have become a norm. The life expectancy is one of the lowest in Europe. People's intellectual interests have ceased to exist, or at least drastically diminished. Educational system (from what I heard) is collapsing. The sense of identity is still being defined, it is still "lost in translation". I do need to add, however, that compared to my last visit here eight years ago, I found St. Petersburg residents a lot more polite (especially the younger generation) and helpful. Personally, Rob and I were treated very well anywhere we went, and on a number of occasions we were impressed by people's attitude which vastly exceeded our prior expectations.
Russian Food
Prior to our arrival to St. Peterburg, my friends had given me me heads-up that the food situation in the city has become very challenging. Limited food items and ever-growing prices were a reflection of the economic sanctions as a result of the Russian-Ukrainian conflict. So, we mentally prepared ourselves what to expect - not the first time for us as we had spent a good amount of time in the developing world (and I grew up in the poor USSR). Imagine our surprise when instead of empty shelves we were met by fully-stocked displays of unmeasurable variety of groceries in every supermarket we entered.
We were shocked with the abundance of food items, especially fantastic dairy products - dozens varieties of milk, yogurt, cheese, butter, and an unimaginable variety of specialty items. Once, I counted over fifty varieties of sausages, thirty varieties of cheeses, ten varieties of red and black caviar, etc.. And, bread and wine options? You just don't have enough time to count them all! And, Russian salads available at stores? You need hours to sample them all! And, don't get me started on the countless varieties of baked goods and chocolates! We could only imagine what a food utopia it must have been here before the sanctions hit Russia. It was so difficult not to gain weight - products were a big upgrade to our standard North American variety (at least for me). Where else in the world, you would have champagne and caviar for breakfast? And, all the countless delicious, elaborate (and affordable due to the favourable currency exchange!) cakes offered in regular (non-yuppie-oriented) supermarkets? Since my return to North America, it is almost pitiful to look at local bakeries after all the Russian cakes and treats we were exposed to.
Quirky Things
St. Petersburg has always offered top classical art, ballet, music, and literature. However, probability due to a conservative/reserved nature of the Russian society, it somewhat lacked a more quirky side. In the recent years, it picked up a few of those though. Here are a few examples we came across.
An unusual Erotic Museum was opened within a fully functional venereal clinic. Up till recently, the museum claimed to have the genuine Rasputin penis on display. Unfortunately, when we went to check it out, the exhibit was no longer available - my guess, it probably "mysteriously" disappeared to become someone's private collection. In either case, a few cute items were remaining, right next to the reception area of the clinic. Next to the book of Hippocratic Oath, there was a statue of a nurse with a skirt pulled up. On the next shelve, various wood carvings of Kama Sutra positions were on display. And, other things of a similar nature were around. Again - we are talking the reception area of the venereal medical clinic here. So, it is nice to see that St. Petersburgers developed a lighter sense of humour.
Another unusual thing we attended was the Russian (Orthodox) Iordan - a traditional religious event, when despite -20°C daily temperature and freezing wind, thousands of people were lined up to jump bare-skin into the icy-cold waters (of the Neva River) surrounding the Peter-and-Paul Fortress - supposedly to wash away their sins and start the New Year fresh. The event was "catered" by the real Russian military serving up hot buckwheat kasha with stewed beef (typical filling military meal), and hot freshly brewed black tea accompanied by sushki (sort of dried up slightly sweet miniature bagels). A lot of traditional music and dancing on the snow was on offer as well.
Yet, another unusual thing we came across were the previously institutionalized Soviet cafeterias (called stolovaya) converted into cute buffet-style cafes offering tons of delicious traditional food and desserts at affordable prices. A decor with candles, TV screens, comfy chairs and tables, AND old Soviet memorabilia was actually quite cozy. Various propaganda slogans and posters from 1920's to 1980's were all over the walls. They were quite interesting from the cultural perspective and some were quite clever and entertaining.
There
were also a few avant-garde movements around the city. As an example, a
previously abandoned block of uninhabited high-risers was converted
into modern art studios. The previously depressing grey walls were used
for brightly coloured graffiti art, and buildings' stairs and elevators
were turned into various sculptural themes. Sometimes it felt like were
were walking up the gloomy stairs created for a theme of Jack the
Ripper, and sometimes it looked like we crossed into a cheery Alice in
Wonderland theme. Personally, I prefer the Hermitage-type art, but I
appreciate the creativity and the attempt to "shake things up" a little.
People
Russian hospitality is amazing. I am very fortunate to continue the connection with my childhood friends even though we have lived in different countries for almost twenty years. My friends and their families would put together an incredible amount and variety of food every time we got together. Their warmth really helped us feel welcome and created special memories of our visit to St. Petersburg.
Finale
My visit to St. Petersburg turned out to be quite different than expected. It was supposed to be just a regular visit to a remainder of my Russian family, however, it turned into a lot of soul searching and unexpected discoveries. I also got re-acquainted with the city and fell in love with its classical past all over again. Walking countless hours along the memory lanes reminded me of my own past and events in my life that had built the foundation of who I am today. There are different kinds of trips, and this one was probably the most authentic one could encounter...
MOSCOW
Last time Rob and I visited Moscow was about nineteen years ago, shortly after we got married.
Moscow is quite different from my native St. Petersburg. Moscow is quite a bit older; there are somewhat similarities in certain architectural styles from the 19th century, but St. Petersburg is clearly a very different "breed". The latter was built by Peter the Great as a "Westernized" cultural capital of old Russia in 1703, and its buildings, canals and squares had reflected French, Italian, German and English architectural styles. Moscow seems a lot more Russian - and, of course, among other things it has its world-famous Red Square and Kremlin to prove it. Moscow is larger, but also quite walkable (at least in the center), though (in my opinion) drivers and locals in St. Petersburg seem to be friendlier and gentler. It is a huge generalization though. One needs to spend a lot more time to fully understand the soul of the city.
Metro (Subway)
Gorgeous, stunning, breath-taking... Marble floors, granite walls, bronze and gold statues, intricate wall mosaics, sculptured ceiling moldings, over-sized crystal chandeliers... Do I need to say any more?
We still have two weeks left before heading back home. So, Turkey, here we come!
TURKEY
ANTALYA
Antalya was a peaceful low-key stop-over, however, only during the-off-tourist season. It also fulfilled its function as a once-is-enough destination.
PAMUKKALE
SELCUK and EPHESUS
Anna's entry:
SAINT PETERSBURG
I was standing in the middle of the Winter Square. Fluffy snowflakes were falling down the Alexander Column above me. I looked at the Triumphal Arch in front of me and the Winter Palace behind, then took a deep breath and slowly extended my arms out... "Is it a cross?", Rob asked me. "No," I said, "the wings"... In reality, it probably was a little bit of both. St. Petersburg was the city I had gained my strength, and now - many years later returning here, I felt somewhat a pariah - rejected by whatever was left of my original family. What most people read about Russian history in books or see in movies, had been a regular household conversation topic in my family when I was growing up. There were a few untold stories (for my own good as I was told as a child), and when my parents passed away fifteen years ago, they took with them all the mysteries that I probably will never find out about. Now, I had only the city left. And, yet, sometimes, there is comfort in silence... Palaces, cathedrals, squares, monuments, bridges and statues have witnessed more history and secrets that it is possible to bear, and yet time goes on...
Rob and I spent almost three months walking around the city - sometimes it was so cold that we could not feel our toes. The city's architecture and history was so stunning that I felt I'd never have enough time to absorb it all. Anywhere we would look, a piece of history was right in front of us. The tsars and tsarinas, their reign and betrayal, revolts and revolutions, Dostoevsky and Nabokov, Mariinsky Ballet and the Hermitage, it seemed like every central street or canal had something to say... And, when the night would arrive, and the palaces, columns, bridges and streets would be illuminated, it just felt surreal, almost straight from a fairy tale, it just took my breath away.
Am I being a little too romantic? Perhaps. However, I was also raised on Dostoevsky - so, here is a not-so-glamorous reality synopsis. The gap between the new rich and the poor is mind boggling. The corruption seemed to have become a norm. The life expectancy is one of the lowest in Europe. People's intellectual interests have ceased to exist, or at least drastically diminished. Educational system (from what I heard) is collapsing. The sense of identity is still being defined, it is still "lost in translation". I do need to add, however, that compared to my last visit here eight years ago, I found St. Petersburg residents a lot more polite (especially the younger generation) and helpful. Personally, Rob and I were treated very well anywhere we went, and on a number of occasions we were impressed by people's attitude which vastly exceeded our prior expectations.
Russian Food
Prior to our arrival to St. Peterburg, my friends had given me me heads-up that the food situation in the city has become very challenging. Limited food items and ever-growing prices were a reflection of the economic sanctions as a result of the Russian-Ukrainian conflict. So, we mentally prepared ourselves what to expect - not the first time for us as we had spent a good amount of time in the developing world (and I grew up in the poor USSR). Imagine our surprise when instead of empty shelves we were met by fully-stocked displays of unmeasurable variety of groceries in every supermarket we entered.
We were shocked with the abundance of food items, especially fantastic dairy products - dozens varieties of milk, yogurt, cheese, butter, and an unimaginable variety of specialty items. Once, I counted over fifty varieties of sausages, thirty varieties of cheeses, ten varieties of red and black caviar, etc.. And, bread and wine options? You just don't have enough time to count them all! And, Russian salads available at stores? You need hours to sample them all! And, don't get me started on the countless varieties of baked goods and chocolates! We could only imagine what a food utopia it must have been here before the sanctions hit Russia. It was so difficult not to gain weight - products were a big upgrade to our standard North American variety (at least for me). Where else in the world, you would have champagne and caviar for breakfast? And, all the countless delicious, elaborate (and affordable due to the favourable currency exchange!) cakes offered in regular (non-yuppie-oriented) supermarkets? Since my return to North America, it is almost pitiful to look at local bakeries after all the Russian cakes and treats we were exposed to.
Quirky Things
St. Petersburg has always offered top classical art, ballet, music, and literature. However, probability due to a conservative/reserved nature of the Russian society, it somewhat lacked a more quirky side. In the recent years, it picked up a few of those though. Here are a few examples we came across.
An unusual Erotic Museum was opened within a fully functional venereal clinic. Up till recently, the museum claimed to have the genuine Rasputin penis on display. Unfortunately, when we went to check it out, the exhibit was no longer available - my guess, it probably "mysteriously" disappeared to become someone's private collection. In either case, a few cute items were remaining, right next to the reception area of the clinic. Next to the book of Hippocratic Oath, there was a statue of a nurse with a skirt pulled up. On the next shelve, various wood carvings of Kama Sutra positions were on display. And, other things of a similar nature were around. Again - we are talking the reception area of the venereal medical clinic here. So, it is nice to see that St. Petersburgers developed a lighter sense of humour.
Another unusual thing we attended was the Russian (Orthodox) Iordan - a traditional religious event, when despite -20°C daily temperature and freezing wind, thousands of people were lined up to jump bare-skin into the icy-cold waters (of the Neva River) surrounding the Peter-and-Paul Fortress - supposedly to wash away their sins and start the New Year fresh. The event was "catered" by the real Russian military serving up hot buckwheat kasha with stewed beef (typical filling military meal), and hot freshly brewed black tea accompanied by sushki (sort of dried up slightly sweet miniature bagels). A lot of traditional music and dancing on the snow was on offer as well.
Yet, another unusual thing we came across were the previously institutionalized Soviet cafeterias (called stolovaya) converted into cute buffet-style cafes offering tons of delicious traditional food and desserts at affordable prices. A decor with candles, TV screens, comfy chairs and tables, AND old Soviet memorabilia was actually quite cozy. Various propaganda slogans and posters from 1920's to 1980's were all over the walls. They were quite interesting from the cultural perspective and some were quite clever and entertaining.
Russian hospitality is amazing. I am very fortunate to continue the connection with my childhood friends even though we have lived in different countries for almost twenty years. My friends and their families would put together an incredible amount and variety of food every time we got together. Their warmth really helped us feel welcome and created special memories of our visit to St. Petersburg.
My visit to St. Petersburg turned out to be quite different than expected. It was supposed to be just a regular visit to a remainder of my Russian family, however, it turned into a lot of soul searching and unexpected discoveries. I also got re-acquainted with the city and fell in love with its classical past all over again. Walking countless hours along the memory lanes reminded me of my own past and events in my life that had built the foundation of who I am today. There are different kinds of trips, and this one was probably the most authentic one could encounter...
MOSCOW
Last time Rob and I visited Moscow was about nineteen years ago, shortly after we got married.
Moscow is quite different from my native St. Petersburg. Moscow is quite a bit older; there are somewhat similarities in certain architectural styles from the 19th century, but St. Petersburg is clearly a very different "breed". The latter was built by Peter the Great as a "Westernized" cultural capital of old Russia in 1703, and its buildings, canals and squares had reflected French, Italian, German and English architectural styles. Moscow seems a lot more Russian - and, of course, among other things it has its world-famous Red Square and Kremlin to prove it. Moscow is larger, but also quite walkable (at least in the center), though (in my opinion) drivers and locals in St. Petersburg seem to be friendlier and gentler. It is a huge generalization though. One needs to spend a lot more time to fully understand the soul of the city.
Gorgeous, stunning, breath-taking... Marble floors, granite walls, bronze and gold statues, intricate wall mosaics, sculptured ceiling moldings, over-sized crystal chandeliers... Do I need to say any more?
People
The main reason for coming to Moscow was to visit Maxim - a Russian friend of ours who we had met several years ago while traveling in SE Asia. We stayed with Maxim and his mom for almost a week, and immediately felt welcomed. Shortly before our arrival they had experienced a death in the family, and despite of the tragic event, treated us with the warmest hospitality and attention. It felt so good to be surrounded by genuine kindness, and we felt the connection as if we had always been close relatives. When time came to depart Moscow, we all were very sad to bid our good-buys... This is not the first time when both Rob and I came to the conclusion that the true family is not where we are born, but who we choose to be with.
On another note... Maxim introduced us to "Globus" - the ultimate Russian supermarket - I wouldn't be surprised if it is the largest one in the world. Rob counted 72 check-outs. It really seemed like one big food city along with the fantastic (and affordable) food-court offering not only super fresh traditional Russian dishes, but also Asian flare, European desserts and really yummy coffee options. I absolutely must pay a special tribute to one food aisle in particular - the chocolates lane. I would estimate that there were at least two hundred varieties of chocolates. It was designed as a self-service - basically you go to each box (with individually wrapped chocolates) displayed on the shelves and select how many you would like to purchase. The variety was out of this world - we asked Maxim to take us back to that store just to experience it again. I was so excited, that at one point I was approached by other Russian shoppers who inquired which chocolates they should buy - they took my suggestions seriously and began loading up their bags. It seemed to have been happening a lot lately - I would frequently start some sort of buying frenzy around here... On several occasions people would not identify me as a Russian, and even attempt speaking to me in English (or in a very slooooow simplified Russian) - followed by a puzzled look when I would respond to them in their (and mine) native language. It does create frequent entertaining situations for both them, and Rob and I. It is actually a kind of fun to experience Russia as both an outsider and as a former native.
The main reason for coming to Moscow was to visit Maxim - a Russian friend of ours who we had met several years ago while traveling in SE Asia. We stayed with Maxim and his mom for almost a week, and immediately felt welcomed. Shortly before our arrival they had experienced a death in the family, and despite of the tragic event, treated us with the warmest hospitality and attention. It felt so good to be surrounded by genuine kindness, and we felt the connection as if we had always been close relatives. When time came to depart Moscow, we all were very sad to bid our good-buys... This is not the first time when both Rob and I came to the conclusion that the true family is not where we are born, but who we choose to be with.
On another note... Maxim introduced us to "Globus" - the ultimate Russian supermarket - I wouldn't be surprised if it is the largest one in the world. Rob counted 72 check-outs. It really seemed like one big food city along with the fantastic (and affordable) food-court offering not only super fresh traditional Russian dishes, but also Asian flare, European desserts and really yummy coffee options. I absolutely must pay a special tribute to one food aisle in particular - the chocolates lane. I would estimate that there were at least two hundred varieties of chocolates. It was designed as a self-service - basically you go to each box (with individually wrapped chocolates) displayed on the shelves and select how many you would like to purchase. The variety was out of this world - we asked Maxim to take us back to that store just to experience it again. I was so excited, that at one point I was approached by other Russian shoppers who inquired which chocolates they should buy - they took my suggestions seriously and began loading up their bags. It seemed to have been happening a lot lately - I would frequently start some sort of buying frenzy around here... On several occasions people would not identify me as a Russian, and even attempt speaking to me in English (or in a very slooooow simplified Russian) - followed by a puzzled look when I would respond to them in their (and mine) native language. It does create frequent entertaining situations for both them, and Rob and I. It is actually a kind of fun to experience Russia as both an outsider and as a former native.
Finale
Well,
here it is... Our three months in Russia have come to an end... It
turned out to be a very different kind of trip. I got re-acquainted
with my native city of St. Petersburg and was reminded how lucky I was
to have been born and raised there. The art, history, and stunning
beauty of the original city have always provided a sense of identity for
me, and this trip it meant even more so. I have heard frequent
comments during my visit that the Russian classics I had been raised upon no longer exists. Perhaps, but it certainly never ceased to
exist for me personally...
We were able to re-connect with our friends, and spending time with Maxim and his mom in Moscow was one of the top highlights of our journey. Visiting my friends and enjoying an unbelievable hospitality was on top of the list as well.
We were able to re-connect with our friends, and spending time with Maxim and his mom in Moscow was one of the top highlights of our journey. Visiting my friends and enjoying an unbelievable hospitality was on top of the list as well.
TURKEY
Anna's entry:
ISTANBUL
Istanbul,
also previously known as Byzantium and Constantinople, has always
inspired a great degree of magnificence and legends. The history can be
encountered almost on every corner of the Old City, where we chose to
base ourselves for almost a week. The striking Aya Sofia, Blue Mosque,
Hippodrome, Ancient Markets, Gulhane Park, Galata Bridge, etc. etc. -
walking around and absorbing the layers of history was very special for
me.
On the practical note... It is always nice to travel outside high season - we were able to avoid tourist crowds, and the city seemed so much more genuine and real. In addition, the hotels offered excellent discounts in March, and in our case additional complimentary great upgrades - the second night of our stay we were offered a very nice room with a window overlooking the Aegean Sea and an ancient fortress. It was very picturesque and dreamy... The hotel staff was multi-national - our receptionist was a super nice guy from a former Soviet republic, and our breakfast host was also an ex-Russian. The location was great, the attitude was excellent, the price was very reasonable, and I must say, this was probably the most comfortable stay we have had in a long time (we normally travel in developing countries where electricity and Western toilet are considered a lap of luxury). So, you can imagine what a different world this hotel must have felt. In addition, I always looked forward to the (included) Turkish breakfast - it was a great match for my palate, but not so much for Rob's. The cheeses, olives, tomatoes, honey, real yogurt, fresh baked bread and home-made-type pastries were delicious. And, on our last night, our wonderful receptionist opened the kitchen just for us so we could load up "for the road" on the breakfast items for our early a.m. flight. What a nice gesture, and fantastic attitude! Also, despite of staying in the historical Old City (meaning tourists), Rob and I were able to find a couple of simple eateries frequented by real local people, many with nice views of historical squares and mosques. No overcharging, and the inexpensive (by choice) food was tasty and fresh. Sometimes, we would walk by posh restaurants filled with Western tourists, and in contrast, their scene seemed so boring and sterile. But, of course, it is all a matter of personal preferences.
We also took a couple of looooooong walks around the area accompanied by five large-size happy stray dogs (surprisingly of expensive breeds). There is an interesting system established around here - stray dogs are all immunized, fed from special dispensers in parks (frequently publicly funded), and are marked with small ear tags telling their history and status. As I said, many were surprisingly from highly desirable in the West breeds, and despite being homeless, the dogs seemed mellow, happy, and well behaved. Later on, we came across a similar situation in other parks of Turkey.
One week seemed short for Istanbul, but my initial impression was very favourable.On the practical note... It is always nice to travel outside high season - we were able to avoid tourist crowds, and the city seemed so much more genuine and real. In addition, the hotels offered excellent discounts in March, and in our case additional complimentary great upgrades - the second night of our stay we were offered a very nice room with a window overlooking the Aegean Sea and an ancient fortress. It was very picturesque and dreamy... The hotel staff was multi-national - our receptionist was a super nice guy from a former Soviet republic, and our breakfast host was also an ex-Russian. The location was great, the attitude was excellent, the price was very reasonable, and I must say, this was probably the most comfortable stay we have had in a long time (we normally travel in developing countries where electricity and Western toilet are considered a lap of luxury). So, you can imagine what a different world this hotel must have felt. In addition, I always looked forward to the (included) Turkish breakfast - it was a great match for my palate, but not so much for Rob's. The cheeses, olives, tomatoes, honey, real yogurt, fresh baked bread and home-made-type pastries were delicious. And, on our last night, our wonderful receptionist opened the kitchen just for us so we could load up "for the road" on the breakfast items for our early a.m. flight. What a nice gesture, and fantastic attitude! Also, despite of staying in the historical Old City (meaning tourists), Rob and I were able to find a couple of simple eateries frequented by real local people, many with nice views of historical squares and mosques. No overcharging, and the inexpensive (by choice) food was tasty and fresh. Sometimes, we would walk by posh restaurants filled with Western tourists, and in contrast, their scene seemed so boring and sterile. But, of course, it is all a matter of personal preferences.
We also took a couple of looooooong walks around the area accompanied by five large-size happy stray dogs (surprisingly of expensive breeds). There is an interesting system established around here - stray dogs are all immunized, fed from special dispensers in parks (frequently publicly funded), and are marked with small ear tags telling their history and status. As I said, many were surprisingly from highly desirable in the West breeds, and despite being homeless, the dogs seemed mellow, happy, and well behaved. Later on, we came across a similar situation in other parks of Turkey.
If
it was not a low season, I probably would not like Antalya. I could
imagine what a tourist circus it must turn into during summer months
when (mostly European) tourists ascend on the Adriatic shores and
beaches in thousands... However, traveling in March made Antalya a
lovely place to explore. Similar to Istanbul, we stayed in the old
historic walled-city neighborhood - called Kaleci. It was pleasant to
walk along narrow historic cobble-stone lanes and along gorgeous ancient
harbour. Our family-run guest house had a beautiful courtyard where we
would enjoy delicious (to my palate) included Turkish breakfasts. I
know it is an acquired taste, but I just loved sprinkling olive oil on
home-made feta which I layered in sliced tomatoes on top of freshly made
fluffy bread along with black and green olives. One morning the family
brought out home-made cherry preserve to accompany freshly deep-fried
bread-sticks. And, that delicious home-made yogurt topped with Turkish
golden honey?! My mouth is watering as I am typing this! Then, for
dinner Rob and I would go to a super-low-key family-run eatery. We were
the only foreigners there, and we gave that family all our business.
The food was cheap and super tasty - it almost had a Mexican flavour.
Large made-by-hand lightly roasted pitas would be served with grilled
chicken, tomatoes, chilies, onions, and a spicy sauce. The family rolled them into a long tube and wrapped them up in a paper - which you
would tear as the eating progressed. More fresh chilies and marinated
onions would be served on small plates. And, those wraps went really
well with ayran - traditional Turkish salted yogurt drink. We would go through ordering a couple of rounds of food and ayran
which always caused big smiles and appreciation gestures of the cooking
family. The service was swift, food was super cheap, and absolutely
delicious. Then, what dinner can go without a proper dessert - baklava
that is?! Normally, it is quite expensive - if you buy it from
tourists' shops - but not the way we do it. A local grocery shop had
trays of various baklava to try, and it was seriously good! We
decided to get a feel of it, and tried all available kinds. We would
pick up a box of it, then go to a historic square and enjoy the baklava and people watching, which is always fun.
Antalya was a peaceful low-key stop-over, however, only during the-off-tourist season. It also fulfilled its function as a once-is-enough destination.
The
UNESCO World Heritage Site of Pamukkale was truly unique. It combined a
natural phenomenon of unusual travertine terraces (from a distance
reminding monster glaciers) known locally as "Cotton Castles" with an
ancient town of Hierapolis on top of them. According to my guide book
the travertine terraces "were created by the hot spring waters that gush
up at the center of the ancient Hierapolis". The latter had been
apparently frequented by Cleopatra who believed that Pamukkale thermal
baths possessed the magic powers, a "fountain of youth" of sorts.
We spent the entire day walking bare-footed (Turkish government requirement) along the terraces, occasionally warming up our feet in warm hot springs floating around the travertines. Keep in mind, it was mid-March when we visited, and the temperatures were quite cool - so after hours of exploration, both our feet and lips had a nice blue tint to them - especially noticeable on the white travertine background. The ruins of Hierapolis were stunning - especially the ancient theater. For a good amount of time we had the entire theater to ourselves (a great benefit traveling off season), and the images of prior events taking place here were striking. From gladiator battles to poetry recitals, imagination can feel in the rest... In addition, for those curious about the history of religion, Phillip the Apostole was presumably martyred here along with his seven sons, which added even more mysticism to the already dramatic place.
It
was in the evening, when we finally descended from the travertines. We
were freezing, our clothes and backpacks were soaked from the rain. We
headed out to a small simple eatery in the Denizli village (where we
based ourselves for a couple of days). We were the only customers, and a
hospitable Turkish owner increased the fire in the large wood-burning
oven when we settled at a table closest to the oven. It felt so good to
warm up and dry our clothes while he was preparing a couple of Turkish kebabs
for us. Sometimes, it is the littlest things that make a person
appreciate the life meaning. Having travelled in the developing world
for a while, we've learnt it quite well...We spent the entire day walking bare-footed (Turkish government requirement) along the terraces, occasionally warming up our feet in warm hot springs floating around the travertines. Keep in mind, it was mid-March when we visited, and the temperatures were quite cool - so after hours of exploration, both our feet and lips had a nice blue tint to them - especially noticeable on the white travertine background. The ruins of Hierapolis were stunning - especially the ancient theater. For a good amount of time we had the entire theater to ourselves (a great benefit traveling off season), and the images of prior events taking place here were striking. From gladiator battles to poetry recitals, imagination can feel in the rest... In addition, for those curious about the history of religion, Phillip the Apostole was presumably martyred here along with his seven sons, which added even more mysticism to the already dramatic place.
We
spent a few days in Selcuk and based ourselves in a simple family-run
hotel over-looking the town and market square. In the mornings,
breakfasts took place in the family part of the building. A couple of
tables would be pushed together where tourists would be served a simple
breakfast. While food was being consumed, all family members (primarily
the elders) would be lounging around the room in their well-used sofas
and would observe us eat. We could tell, that this was not making other
hotel guests comfortable, but after being stared at for months in India
nothing surprises us. It was actually quite entertaining. The grandma
- the oldest member of the family (I would not be surprised if she was
past her 100th birthday) was also assigned a duty of the hotel guard -
and she was taking it seriously. I always loved exchanging a few words
and smiles with her in the morning, even though neither she or I could
speak the other person's language. But, somehow, we managed to
understand each other just fine.
The town of Selcuk had a decent market, friendly food stalls, and super delicious baklava
options. It also was well positioned to explore the historical ruins,
and had a few interesting historical landmarks itself. The columns of
an ancient Roman aqueduct were also a home to large nest of storks. A
walking distance from the city center were the ancient ruins of Artemis
sanctuary - considered in 4th century BC as one of the Seven Wonders of
the Ancient World (before they were burnt by the lunatic who wanted to
be part of the history through his infamous act - I purposely omit his
name). And, the city itself was apparently founded around the burial
place of St. John the Evangelist. I am not that familiar with the
religious history (and only through the exposure to the art), but the
fact certainly had enough historical significance. And last, but not
least - Selcuk was the perfect base to explore the grand ruins of
Ephesus.
Again,
to quote a guide book - Ephesus "...is the world's finest surviving
example of Greco-Roman classical city". I agree, the ruins and scale of
the ancient city were magnificent and awe-inspiring, but it is only my
humble opinion that the way restoration work is going, Ephesus might
loose at least some of its credibility. Rob and I have consistently
noticed that the restored parts of the city were basically "patched up"
using materials from various ruin parts spread around - as opposed to
being more attentive to what actually was being used. In other words, I
was somewhat disappointed with the rushed "sugar coating" of the
restored surfaces. If Romans could build the magnificent cities by hand
and pure labour in 300 BC (and even centuries earlier), we might bear
some responsibility restoring it more properly. After all, what
Alexander the Great would say? Of course, I am not an expert at all,
just a casual observation.
SIRINCE
A hill village of Sirince, located about 8 km East from Selcuk, was an easy accessible point by public transport. One could say Sirince had a certain charm and had nice views, but neither Rob or I liked it that much. It was touristy, lacked the genuine quality, and frankly - was quite boring. We enjoyed watching a horse and its foal a lot more than walking around the village itself. And, we were much happier to be back in Selcuk that evening - especially since the next day we would have an early train ride towards Izmir followed by a flight back to Istanbul, then a night at the airport, followed by a long-haul international flight... What I am trying to say is that our journey around this small part of Turkey came to finale...
A hill village of Sirince, located about 8 km East from Selcuk, was an easy accessible point by public transport. One could say Sirince had a certain charm and had nice views, but neither Rob or I liked it that much. It was touristy, lacked the genuine quality, and frankly - was quite boring. We enjoyed watching a horse and its foal a lot more than walking around the village itself. And, we were much happier to be back in Selcuk that evening - especially since the next day we would have an early train ride towards Izmir followed by a flight back to Istanbul, then a night at the airport, followed by a long-haul international flight... What I am trying to say is that our journey around this small part of Turkey came to finale...
Finale
Two weeks in Turkey is a very short time to even scratch the surface of
this fascinating country. The history and beauty are abundant, we were
met with a genuine welcome and hospitality, the food was delicious, and
the images acquired during our short stay here are heart-warming.
However, it also may be a little too developed for our tastes.
Travelling off season had a tremendous benefit and a lot more peaceful
feel, however, I am not sure how it would be during peak seasons. Both
Rob and I are glad we have given it a try, but it will probably be a
while before we are too eager to return back.
posted by Rob and Anna @ 6:14 PM
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